Round & About’s wine columnist shares his love of wines and picks out 10 seasonal bottles to (hopefully) sip on in the sunshine…
Spring is in the air, and with that comes thoughts of renewal and revitalisation.
With these thoughts, and slightly thirstier ones in mind, here are some super spring sippers suggestions.
A rosé worth chasing
First up, a first look at a perennial favourite, the Muga Rosado 2024 (Majestic £14 or £11.50 on mixed six). Another triumph, though the 2024 has a little more colour and a little less acidity, reflecting this small, challenging year.
Cherries and strawberries dominate with the crisp raspberries and tangy loganberries I’d expected, becoming bit players. The finish is firm, and the mineral content is much more apparent, making it taste drier and linger longer. It’s a small vintage, so get it while you can.
Sauvignon Blanc, but softer
The Te Pa Signature Series Reserve (Co-Op £14.50) is probably the best Sauvignon I’ve had this year.
Barrel fermentation has calmed this Kiwi Sauvignon’s aggressive tendencies and added a passion fruit and peach tone to the ample rhubarb and gooseberry flavours. It also has a lovely mouthfeel with a velvety texture that adds weight and interest. Serve this with roasted poultry or white fish.
Sicilian sunshine, in a glass
Grillo isn’t a household name, unless your home is in Sicily, in which case it’s as ubiquitous as Michael McIntyre. Grillo is a heat-loving vine giving whites that combine freshness and complexity. The Terra Organica’s Parcel Series No. 1 Grillo (Ocado £10.40) is a fine example. Beyond its bright, tropical fruit bouquet lies a palate of pineapple, guava, peach and honey, balanced by bright, zesty acidity. Try this with seafood or white fish.
A rare solo star
Varietal Roussanne isn’t a wine you see that often, as it’s invariably paired with Marsanne. Yalumba’s Eden Valley Roussanne (Vinum £16.70) turns in a mesmerising solo performance.
Straw green, the nose is a complex mix of citrus, herbs, lavender, and camomile. Camomile reappears on the palate, underlying the white peach, lemon, and kumquat fruit with a gentle, savoury bitterness. I tasted this on its own, but it would be delicious with pork or a stir-fry.
Chablis, redeemed
Chablis and I have had our disagreements. These culminated in a spat on Instagram after I (rightly) accused it of being the Richard Burton of wine regions, frittering its talent in exchange for easy money.
Leaving the shelves of supermarket Chablis, and the supermarket bins where Petit Chablis belongs, and you can find wines worthy of its illustrious name. Take the Louis Jadot Cellier du Valvan 2024 (Amazon £23.99). This beautiful wine is concentrated and plump, yet elegant and precise. The unusual richness is due to the tiny harvest and has morphed the profile from lemon and oyster shells to pears and chalk.
Creamy, with a hazelnut paste tone, it went down far too easily. So easily that I never got the chance to pair it with the chicken breasts I’d cooked. Next time…
New Zealand Chardonnay at its best
I’ll stick with Chardonnay for my next recommendation; however, the Nautilus Chardonnay 2022 (VINUM £24.40) couldn’t be further from the Chablis. For one, it’s from New Zealand, and stylistically, it’s at the other end of the spectrum.
I’ve long admired Kiwi Chardonnay, but this is special. Perhaps it’s the coolness of the 2022 vintage, but this is a lighter, subtler incarnation. Mid gold, the bouquet offers inviting aromas of tropical fruit, crushed nuts, and yeast.
These are in evidence on the palate, where they are joined by lemon freshness and a lovely honey note to the finish. Weighty and rounded, it was a joy on its own but would be superb with meaty fish or game birds.
A case for Gamay
And so, to the reds. Spring is the perfect time for lighter reds that complement foods such as lamb and new season asparagus. Typically, I’ll serve a Burgundy or some other Pinot Noir, but having recently tasted (and bought a case of) the Louis Jadot Bourgogne Gamay (Sainsbury’s £16.75), it’s Gamay all the way. Gamay is an underrated grape.
Best known for producing Beaujolais, in the right hands, it can be a glorious wine full of black and red berry fruit with a serious intensity and notable, crunchy minerals.
Black berries, cherries, raspberries and that signature spice to the finish make for a refreshing yet satisfying glassful. Give it an hour or so open, and the floral notes bloom, and it becomes even rounder and fuller.
Bold, bright and joyful
If you’re looking for a red that will bring a smile to your lips as well as a stain, try the Puglia Pop Fico (Perfect Cellar £29.95). This Puglian wine is part of a collection of excellent wines; their Verdeca is a stunning white, which aims to showcase the grape’s character. They’ve certainly achieved that here.
Produced from the local Susumaniello grape, within its ruby hue lies a cherry and pomegranate-flavoured wine with a mouth-coating feel. Almonds, green herbs and aniseed populate the mid-palate, and there’s a touch of coughdrop sweetness on the finish. This would be marvellous with a plate of charcuterie or a margarita pizza.
Cabernet with character
Cabernet Sauvignon is often referred to as the king of grapes. This noble vine is capable of everything from a subtle, nuanced Bordeaux to a thunderous behemoth in the Napa Valley. Offering a bit of both is the Robert Oatley Signature Series Cabernet (Majestic £15.50 or £14 on a mixed six). Some Aussie Cabernets can be a little sweet or a little too feisty for me, but this cool climate Margaret River one treads a fine line between ripeness and refinement.
As expected, it’s inky blue-black, and cassis, peppers, earth and chocolate scents rise from the glass. What was less expected was its gentle, almost sedate character. Blackcurrants, plums, and black cherries drift across the tongue with little pricks of eucalyptus, charcoal and spices adding energy and excitement. Very complete, it’s just the thing for a steak or tomato pasta.
A rioja for special moments
I’ll finish this with another new Rioja, the Beronia 2018 Gran Reserva (Cambridge Wine Merchants £27.99). Gran Reserva Riojas are only made in exceptional years and spend longer in wood than a forest ranger.
It opens with a majestically opulent bouquet of ripe black fruits, vanilla, smoke, and sage. In the mouth, it’s big, bold, and multilayered. Fresh and dried black berries mingle with plums and spiced cherries, all balanced by a firm structure and juicy acidity. Lovely now, if the sun takes its overcoat off, puts its hat on, this will make for a brilliant accompaniment to barbecued food.
Next time out, I’ll look at summer fizz.
Cheers!
Giles
