Amalfi Experience at Six by Nico

Round & About

review

Image by: Andrew Oglivy

Six by Nico in Oxford is a culinary gem that brings a refreshing and innovative dining experience to Oxford’s vibrant food scene. Ellie Cox went along to try out their new six-course tasting menu, embracing La Dolce Vita.

Located in the heart of Oxford, this restaurant offers a unique concept of themed six-course tasting menus that change every six weeks, ensuring that every visit is a new adventure for your taste buds.

From 1st July – 11th August, the tasting menu inspired by the Amalfi Coast promises to take guests on a culinary journey to the sun-kissed shores of its menu namesake through contemporary spins on the traditional flavours of Southern Italy.

The whole dining experience delivered just that. Despite a gloomy evening in Oxfordshire, as soon as you step into Six by Nico you’re taken on a unique journey to explore a taste of Southern Italy. From sipping on Aperol Spritz, to drinking wines that perfectly match each course; it’s an experience to remember.

The restaurant itself offers a sleek, contemporary design of the interior which, combined with warm lighting and comfortable seating, creates a relaxed yet sophisticated atmosphere. The open kitchen adds a touch of excitement as diners can watch the chefs meticulously prepare each course.

However, the star of the show at Six by Nico is undoubtedly the food. The flavours are bold and inventive, with a beautiful presentation that is most definitelt Instagram-worthy. The use of fresh, high-quality ingredients is evident in every bite.

The six-course tasting menu is priced at £50, with an option to add matching wines to each course at £38 (highly recommend adding this).

The menu offers the following:

Course one – Parmesan Polenta
Espuma, Truffle, Mushroom Ragout

Course two – Heirloom Tomato
Green Olive Tapenade, Salted Lemon, Lovage Emulsion & Whipped Ricotta

Course three – Spaghetti Nero
Toasted Sourdough, Chilli, Confit Garlic & Scamorza Foam

Course four – Black Pollock
Bagna Cauda, Zucchini, Braised Fennel, Basil Dressing

Course five – Trio Of Pork
Belly Of Pork, Pancetta Ham Jam, Nduja Cannelloni, Smoked Onion, Pickled Summer Squash

Add-On (highly recommend that you try these!)
Crispy King Prawn, Peperoncino Verde Emulsion & Lemon Gel – £9

Course six – Delizia Al Limone
Lemon Mousseline, Polenta Cake, Caramelised White Chocolate, Yoghurt Sorbet

The ever-changing menus mean that there is always something new to look forward to, making it a great spot for special occasions and regular visits. The combination of exceptional food, outstanding service, and a stylish setting makes Six by Nico a must-visit.

Whether you’re local to Oxford or just visiting, make sure to be first in the queue (spaces get nabbed really quickly thanks to the buzz!) to book a table at Six by Nico for a dining experience that is both unique and unforgettable.

Amalfi Coast six-course tasting menu available from July 1st – 11th August, visit Amalfi Coast – Oxford – Six By Nico

Six of the best from Nico

Liz Nicholls

review

Six by Nico is the newest addition to the Westgate in Oxford. Liz Nicholls was lucky enough to be among the first to try it at the weekend

As the city of dreaming spires (with a wondrous view of them from the top of the Westgate) Oxford is known for its old-school charm.

But when a newcomer to the foodie scene creates a buzz, it’s a real thrill. And when that newcomer is an original foodie fanatic who has made his name in other, bigger, brasher cities before landing here, I’m sniffing about for titbits and tasters.

This is how I found myself absorbing the neon genius of an Irn Bru sorbet with a perfect ‘deep fried mars bar’ (actually a very classy chocolate pave & associated bits) in the intergalactic bonsai zen den at Six By Nico.

If you haven’t been to one of Nico Simeone’s restaurants (there are branches in Leeds, Belfast, London, Cardiff, Birmingham, Manchester and his native Glasgow) the concept is magically enjoyable. For £50 a head you can sit back and relax while you’re served a six-course tasting menu (dietary requirements catered for if you’re that person) that changes every six weeks, drawing inspiration from a memory, place or idea. For an extra £39 you can enjoy an expertly matched wine with each course, which I highly recommend you do.

Now, you might hate a ‘tasting menu’. Weeny portions and a lack of imagination at other restaurants might have given them a bad name, but not here. Thanks to hard graft, his Italian heritage, a flawless service team and a real passion for food, Nico knows exactly what he’s doing. The first menu is ‘the Chippie’, a nostalgic chip shop-inspired half dozen.

This is no bodged assortment of battered bits, instead you’ll find the courses deconstructed and dreamed up as better variations. From the starter, a mindbending parmesan and tatty concoction with curry oil, through the mains including a ‘steak pie’ of meaty magic which arrives in a smoke-filled cloche for a theatrical flourish to that incredible pud, you’re taken on a journey. But, amid a stonking interior (top marks for the amazing banquettes and yellow leather scalloped sofas) the food manages to sing. It’s not fancy for the sake of itself, either, but the flavours and originality should, hopefully mean this place is here for many changing menus to come. Oxford is stony ground for people to take root (as I know, 12 years after landing here myself) so I hope the Westgate crowd take it to their hearts.

I can’t wait for the next one. And, take it from me, you won’t leave hungry or hammered but with a spring in your step.

Bookings from 20th May. Visit Home – Six By Nico

Copper celebration at the Coppa Club

Round & About

review

Michelle Miley is left in seventh heaven at The Georgian, Coppa Club’s new boutique hotel in the heart of the Surrey Hills, Haslemere

Seven years ago, my husband and I said: “I do!” so, in celebration of our copper wedding anniversary we gleefully headed to The Georgian, Coppa Club for a rare night away together. We arrived at the charming Grade II listed property on a bitterly cold, frosty night so we were thankful that the fires had been stoked as we walked through the grand entrance to a warm welcome. It was Friday night and amidst the beautifully decorated Christmas Trees, the bar and restaurant hummed with the sound of clinking glasses and festive cheer, putting us in the mood for an evening of fabulous cocktails and feasting.

The Hotel

The Georgian, Coppa Club opened its doors in May and since then has been stirring up the Surrey hospitality scene in the leafy streets of Haslemere. The tenth property to join Coppa Club’s portfolio of clubhouses and third hotel location, The Georgian offers an all-day lifestyle venue with no membership fees. It’s an escape for the community of Haslemere and a destination that is accessible to everyone, where visitors and locals alike can enjoy the exceptional facilities to work, eat, drink, meet, relax and stay. Complete with a café, bar, restaurant, lounge, terrace and private dining space, available from morning to night, visitors can pop in with their laptop for a morning coffee or casual business meeting, sit for cocktails at the bar or in a cosy booth for an indulgent dinner.

“The Georgian, Coppa Club opened its doors in May and since then has been stirring up the Surrey hospitality scene in the leafy streets of Haslemere.”

The interior is an inspirational mix of traditional and contemporary style that allows the building’s Georgian features to shine alongside fun design features. I particularly liked the playful use of brass hands as coat hooks in the bar. Georgian-inspired patterned floor tiles and Georgian panelling in gorgeous hues of green create a relaxed feel in the bar and snug areas. There is also a more formal, wooden panelled private room that can be used for meetings or private dining. The tiles and panelling feature again in pastel pink tones in the plant-filled Summer House, making it ideal for children’s parties or casual meetings. The lounge has dark blue panelling and matching ceiling that highlights the Tudor-style wooden beams and emulates a snug feel where you can relax with a drink.

The Georgian has 13 individually designed bedrooms for a comfy getaway. Although the hotel welcomes everyone, we chose to leave our young son at his grandad’s house for a sleepover enabling us to appreciate the blissful peace and fully unwind. Our spacious bedroom felt very tranquil with its calming green palette and huge bed, and the ensuite was luxurious with an incredible rainforest shower. The room was also well equipped with a flatscreen TV, hairdryer, ironing facilities and fridge with water and fresh milk for that essential morning coffee.

Dining

There are several dining spaces each offering a different fantastic experience. The main restaurant is large and airy with ‘Bonbon’ lanterns that create an atmospheric glow. Leading off the restaurant is a glass-enclosed terrace with a large fire pit keeping it toasty, and for year-round dining under the stars, three iconic heated igloos dominate the garden.

First things first, we ordered from the inventive cocktail menu a refreshing Raspberry Moscow Mule and a sweet Tiramisu Martini. Premium ingredients are blended with flair and creative twists are incorporated into classic cocktail recipes.

The food menu is focused on European, British and Mediterranean dishes, and the festive specials menu features this season’s favourites served in a modern way. Ordering from the festive specials, to start, I had Salmon Tartare paired with baby capers and tangy ponzu which I slathered on crispy flatbreads. My husband tucked into perfectly tender smoked Duck Breast served with celeriac.

For mains, I savoured Slow cooked Duck Leg with a crisp skin and meat that glided off the bone served with braised butter beans and accompanied by roast potatoes, roast root vegetables and pan-seared Brussels sprouts (served with all the festive specials). My husband enjoyed his house classic, 10oz Rib Steak on the Bone cooked pink to perfection and served with a side of skinny fries and spicy chimichurri sauce.

After our indulgent dinner, we just about had room for dessert. I opted for classic, fruity and rich Christmas Pudding drenched in sweet brandy butter, and my husband had Spiced Cranberry and White Chocolate Cheesecake. Feeling contented, we snuggled up in a cosy nook by a fireplace and finished the evening with an ice-cold Baileys and warm mince pies – it is Christmas after all!

In the morning we headed to the terrace for a hearty breakfast of creamy, crushed avocado, poached eggs and crispy cured English bacon stacked on sour dough, and an impressive Skillet Breakfast served piping hot. I feel that the mark of an excellent English breakfast should be judged by the quality of its sausages and the Cumberland sausages at The Georgian were superb.

Location

Considered a fashionable hotspot and just a short drive from the beautiful Surrey countryside, Haslemere is a charming market town. Boasting boutique shops, independent cafes and interesting tourist attractions – these include a nearby vineyard, distillery, national trust property, classic car show and food festival. With easy access from London, Hampshire and Sussex, Haslemere is the ideal staycation destination for those looking to enjoy a weekend in the Surrey Hills, where you can spend some time in the great outdoors and unwind.

“Treat yourself to a supper and stay this Christmas time.”

The Georgian, Coppa Club is a fabulous, welcoming retreat for celebrating a special occasion like we were, or to spend time with friends or family catching up over drinks or a meal. Indulge in a treat for yourself and book the Festive Supper and Stay (available throughout December from £184) before (or after) the masses descend on your home this Christmas.

For more information on The Georgian, Coppa Club, please visit https://coppaclub.co.uk/the-georgian/ or call 01491 525 879. High St, Haslemere GU27 2JY

Louis Likes… The Crazy Bear Stadhampton

Round & About

review

In the first in a series of dining out reviews, ten-year-old Louis Savage samples the hospitality on offer at The Crazy Bear in Stadhampton.

My driver and I arrived at The Crazy Bear and it was busy. Outside were two bears and the reception was a London bus. We decided on the Thai menu which meant we had to eat inside. This was a shame we couldn’t eat in their extraordinary gardens.

A waiter took us downstairs where there were mirrors on the ceiling. We were seated in the corner of the restaurant on a table with a sofa as my chair, which I thought was cool. We had some Thai prawn crackers to start with which had plenty of spice.

There weren’t loads of drink choices for kids, but there was Coke, lemonade and apple and orange juice. But my driver had a beer and he said there were lots of choices for wines, champagnes and beers.

For starters, we shared some Cotswold chicken satay. My driver had some crispy rice paper and duck spring rolls. I ordered some crispy salt and pepper king prawns which turned out to be very very crispy!

For mains, I had a dim sum – this type of dough which is wrapped around lots of things such as prawn, pork, prawns and pork and fish. My driver had some chargrilled lamb cutlets that were super nice (a bit better than my dim sum to be honest) as well as some egg fried rice.

For dessert my knickerbocker glory had delicious strawberries on super-smooth whipped cream, then more strawberries in a delicious puree with strawberry ice cream under it and then vanilla ice cream.

Food: 6.5/10 Style: 9/10

Find out more

Toot-Toot Drivers Airport review

Round & About

review

Vtech’s Toot-Toot Drivers is a big hit in our house. My son, Joshua, loves to build and play with cars, so the brightly coloured interlocking track pieces and musical, light up vehicles are always his go-to toy. He will happily spend a couple of hours creating elaborate cities and roadway systems – which makes Toot-Toot a hit with me too!

When the Toot-Toot Drivers Airport arrived for review, Joshua was very excited and couldn’t wait to rip the box open and get stuck in. The airport requires some assembly, but the instructions were easy to follow so Joshua was able to help me build it and enjoyed putting the stickers on.

Included in the set are two mini jets along with a larger SmartPoint Toot-Toot jet that plays three songs and six melodies. There are four SmartPoint locations around the airport that work by activating different phrases and sound effects when a Toot-Toot vehicle drives over one. I really like this feature as it provides even more interaction and helps with early language development.

Once Joshua was ready for take-off, he used the flip-up launcher to send the Toot-Toot jet speeding down the runway and the spinning cloud attachment on the control tower to fly it in the sky. Toot-Toot is great for imaginative play, and it was a joy to see Joshua flying the plane on the cloud telling me that he was going on holiday to Spain where we went on our last family trip.

Toot-Toot Drivers Airport also comes with several pieces of track, a roundabout to ferry passengers around, and spinning radar, wind meter and runway lights. As a standalone set, the airport offers enough features to keep any toddler / preschooler engaged, however the best feature is that all the Toot-Toot play sets connect together so the airport can easily be added to an existing collection ready to build the ultimate city.

A well-made and durable learning toy, Toot-Toot Drivers Airport is suitable for ages 1-5 years and is priced at £34.99.

Making massage a regular, guilt-free treat

Liz Nicholls

review

We’re all up to our eyeballs in depressing news about the rising cost of living… But we also know how vital self care is for good mental health… So what’s a stressed out, strapped-for-cash girl to do? 🤔

As far as luxurious treats go, a great massage is top of my treats list. You’re either a massage person or you’re not. For me there is no other wholesome indulgence that quite hits the spot when it comes to topping up that mojo. Being a single mum, prone to life-ruining migraines and living with a non-hugging teenager, the prospect of some no-strings touching always appeals. 💆

So the ethos of The Massage Company, born in Camberley in 2016 and growing ever since while winning a few industry awards, really appeals to me. It’s a subscription-based service on a mission transform massage therapy from a “once in a blue moon occurrence” to a regular part of our wellbeing routines. This brings the costs down, and helps you enjoy a regular top-up just for you, so you can enjoy the benefits (better sleep, reduced anxiety anyone?) without feeling guilty or waiting for another birthday to roll round.

I popped into the High Wycombe branch and shared my goals with the friendly team. Although petite and dainty, Gabi the therapist was happy to indulge my “go-hard or go home” approach. Her Swedish style massage was expert, and incredibly relaxing, along with the calming fragrance ooozing out of the mister. You can also opt for deep tissue if you’re the hench type, or hot stones. I treated myself to an additional scalp massage which involved Gabi focusing on my temples and neck, gently pulling small sections of my hair which unleashed all sorts of weird & wonderful sensations elsewhere.

I wafted out into the real world feeling light as a feather and full of beans. And I was plagued by none of my usual headaches for more than a fortnight (and counting). I hope many more of these franchises spring up and urge everyone to put themselves first and treat themselves. We’re all cancelling treats and direct debits but this one should pay for itself.

*The Massage Company branches include Camberley and High Wycombe. To find out more, visit massagecompany.co.uk

Eastbury Hotel & Spa review

Liz Nicholls

review

Lazing in the bubbling jacuzzi, gazing up at the round ceiling window, where concentric circles of rain pulse outwards… this is about as close to Zen as I can remember feeling.

I have entered the round, inviting, Hobbit-like door to the bijou spa at the bottom of the walled garden at The Eastbury in Sherbourne. Inside is a nurturing safe haven that feels a million miles from the daily hubbub, with a luxury wet spa, hydrotherapy tub, sauna and treatment room where even the most frazzled can feel their cares melt away.

Treatments on offer from healing hands include nourishing facials, stone therapy and deep tissue massage, using the premier cru of wellness brands Caudalie. There is also an outdoor jacuzzi for good measure, and you can book exclusive use of the spa suite or perhaps treat yourself to a nourishing body wrap or tub and scrub.

If you are worn out by your own life and need a restorative change of scene, I can think of few places more suited than The Eastbury. The recently refurbished 26-bedroom country house hotel is the winner of the “best value experience” in the prestigious Conde Nast 2022 awards for Excellence.

Sherborne – the ancient capital of Dorset – is a sleepy market town with many local gardens (Stourhead, Minterne, Tintinhill), fly fishing, hot air ballooning, Sherborne Castle and Abbey. The area is surrounded by National Trust and English Heritage Sites and is a great base from which to explore the Dorset coast including Chesil Beach, Durdle Door, West Bay and Brownsea Island (a drive away of less than 45 minutes).

The five Victorian Garden Potting Shed Suites are beautifully appointed, snuggly warm and cosy, thanks to their underfloor heating. Each one has its own entrance and tri-folding rear doors so you can enjoy the private terrace and gaze at the stars, alongside the fire pit. These get-away suites are nestled in the award-winning gardens of the 17th century stone period property, where the outdoor seating, croquet, badminton, table tennis and large chess set add to the quirky charm of this luxury getaway. The newly refurbished Eastbury Cottage is has three generous bedrooms, if you’re looking for a group stay.

There are some dog-friendly rooms with comfy canine beds, bowls, treats, a squeaky dog toy and even a welcome letter from the owner’s chihuahua Monty. Each beautiful room offers a walks guide so that you can venture out to make the most of the local scenery, including Badbury Rings, Glastonbury Tor and the River Yeo.

Whatever your stress levels, a stay promises to top up your mojo levels and leave you feeling pampered, refreshed and ready to face the world anew. Aaaaaaand relax!

Doubles from £206 B&B per night. Eastbury Cottage price based on two people is £625 per night or £4,375 for seven nights. Price based on four people or more is £850 per night or £5,950 for seven nights on a self-catering basis. Includes a private garden, six-seater outdoor table, barbecue and a classic garden hot tub (available from the end of September). Minimum two-night stay. For more info or to book a stay visit theeastburyhotel.co.uk or call 01935 813131.

We have a five-star overnight stay with spa & dinner for two people at The Eastbury to give away! Click here to enter

The Three Daggers in Edington

Grace Tracey

review

A stay at the dog-friendly The Three Daggers certainly made my tail wag, not to mention that of terrier Roger

Anyone who knows me knows I love dogs. Another thing I love is staying in beautiful B&Bs in the gorgeous countryside (who doesn’t!). So a stay in The Three Daggers, a dog-friendly inn in the middle of Wiltshire’s valleys, was perfect for me!

Unfortunately, I don’t have a dog (yet) – so I borrowed my mum’s rescue terrier mix, Roger, for the trip. I‘d seen the pictures online but the whole property had such charm it simply can’t be captured in an image.

The self-proclaimed “quintessentially British” accommodation certainly lived up to the title. Our room was spacious and luxurious with a massive comfy bed and bathroom fit for a king. There was also a Roger-sized armchair which he soon settled into with his favourite blanket and one of my mum’s shoes.

We were shown Edington Farm Shop, full of local produce and much from their own Priory Farm inclduing their special Three Dagger ales from their micro-brewery. They also had fresh fruit & veg, pies, sausages, some rather lovely dog treats and even local artists’ work.

In the micro-brewery we were told by Jackie the Accommodation Manager, who was very kindly showing us around, they hold small weddings and with this year’s restrictions they have had a lot of interest from couples in using this stunning location for their big day, holding the reception in the upstairs of the restaurant which doubles as a quaint events room.

Just in case a pub, accommodation, brewery and farm shop were not enough for you – they also have a Spa Barn onsite which has an extensive treatment list and also includes a sauna, steam room, outdoor hot tub and a plunge pool! What more could you ask for!

Roger was in need of exercise by now, so we took a walk around the quiet roads and fields surrounding The Three Daggers as the sun began to descend. The hills and valleys made for a fantastic sunset, and the pinky-purple sky guided us back to the inn.

I’m envious this isn’t my local as it had a lovely warm and welcoming atmosphere – the staff could not have been nicer to Roger (and us of course). We ordered starters and mains and ‘cheers’ed a delightful house red to having a great time so far.

I’m not just saying this because we’ve not been out much since the lockdown, it genuinely was one of the best meals I’ve ever had. I enjoyed a creamy baked camembert to start, a delicious veggie pie while my partner (often disappointed by small portion sizes) was pleasantly surprised with his pig terrine starter, steak and chips main. We both opted for the salted caramel cheesecake for pudding as we’d seen it pass on the way to another table earlier and decided sharing one wasn’t an option.

After a heavenly sleep, we were greeted by a basket of warm pastries and other breakfast treats outside our door – I loved the pain au chocolat. A brief walk with Roger in the morning sun and it was time to head back to reality.
If you’re a lover of the countryside and looking to treat yourself – and your pooch – this is an ideal destination!

If you fancy booking a visit for yourself or to find out more about the beautiful venue visit www.threedaggers.co.uk

Review of Aladdin

Round & About

review

Review of Aladdin at the New Victoria Theatre Woking, by Lucy Barker

From the moment the curtain went up on Aladdin, my five-year-old was spellbound by the giant King Cobra snake that reared up at baddie Abanazar’s command. The thing was huge – it reached to the top of the stage and seemed to extend into the audience, complete with flashing eyes and sinuous body.

Next came the double act of David Phipps-Davis as Widow Twankey and Bobby Davro as Wishee Washee, old hats at panto, whose banter was a key feature of the production. Some of the comments were a bit adult for the children but the audience didn’t seem to mind. My son was particularly keen on the donkey derby that took place between ‘mother and son’ although the joke wore a bit thin for me.

As a lifelong Strictly Come Dancing Fan I was looking forward to seeing Brendan Cole, who didn’t disappoint as the Spirit of the Ring and completely overshadowed the special effects genie. I, like the rest of the audience, was entranced by the magic carpet ride taken by Aladdin (although my imagination was stretched a bit too far by the fact that only he got to take a ride, leaving his companions to just walk out of the cave!). This was a definite highlight as, like the snake, Aladdin flew over the audience as well as the stage.

CBBC favourite Mischa Eckersley did a good turn as Princess Jasmine and special mention must also got to Pearce Barro in the title role. The production also featured the talents of veteran ventriloquist Dawson Chance as Chief of Police.

Overall, it was a thoroughly enjoyable night out, from getting to sneak out at bedtime (his, not mine) with my son; to the display in the foyer of a monkey sneaking into the treasure cove; to obviously the production itself, which contained all the elements of a traditional Christmas pantomime.

The panto runs until 5th January 2020

For more information and tickets

A golden example of dining

Liz Nicholls

review

Liz Nicholls reviews the newly opened Ivy Oxford Brasserie.

In these strange, straitened times, luxury feels like it’s in short supply. In fact, “luxury” has become so rare a concept that it feels a retro, almost naughty. Luckily, the energetic team behind The Ivy Oxford Brasserie haven’t received this particular memo.

From the moment we were ushered inside, off the bleak wintry high street into the velvet-coccoon of the cloakroom we were (to quote Beyoncé) living lavish.

The Ivy Oxford Brasserie’s arrival in this often austere city of broken dreams has caused a big fat buzz for good reason. Because we’re all hungry for some luxury, and a place to celebrate rather than commiserate.

As with its celebrity honeypot mother branch in London, and the successful brasserie outposts in Winchester and Marlow, the Ivy brand is all about the best of the best. That’s most thrilling, on first entry, with the service. The staff offer the level of old-fashioned courtesy and enthusiasm that makes you feel like you’re winning at life. I go weak at the knees for a good banquette (especially a curvy orange one) and the effervescent Karim’s recommendation – truffle arancini – were balls of richly flavoured sexy joy; the perfect accompaniment for Magdalen Manhattan.

You can’t visit this Ivy branch without being wowed by its interior. Instagram has helped to gild the Ivy Oxford’s golden age because it really is a maximalist wonderland that feels designed to be snapped. For Pinterest fans like myself, the general vibe could be defined as “1920s Flapper Luxe”, with huge botanical motifs (toucans, butterflies, rainbow trout) and shiny surfaces at every turn. The old bank’s stately dimensions make it the perfect stomping ground for anyone in need of a bit of glam – even strutting up the copper-hued illuminated staircase to the ladies makes you feel special. The toilets themselves (which you might have seen on Insta) are worth special mention: rose quartz sinks, brass taps, gothic-gold floral wallpaper and jewel-hued pouffes… No wonder, then, that the smallest rooms have apparently been papped even more than the chocolate bombe (which comes a close second). And the enamel-ceilinged private hire party room is a golden example of how to create a setting where you can and should celebrate in debauched yet elegant style, a la the Ivy alma mater.

Hype can really detract from a good meal, and I had thought this Ivy outpost might be more style over substance but happily I was proved wrong. Tempura prawns and salt & pepper squid, in their conical silver salver, were crisp and gorgeous dunked in their wasabi and miso dressing and – a greedy choice – the lobster risotto was a divine creation of sweet meaty flesh doused in a seafoamy bisque dressing with a perfect partner of tender samphire.

Another greedy winter choice (and Karim’s recommendation), chicken Milanese was peak pleasure, coated in brioche crumb but kept savoury by a shiny tureen of truffle cream sauce that I kept trying to steal and topped with a rudely perfect fried egg. Then, as if to prove more definitely is more, the blackened cod fillet. This has almost become a cliché dish, which footballers plump for at Nobu and other top-tier celeb haunts, but technically the Ivy version is very hard to fault: pearly succulent fish, baked in a banana leaf beautifully fragrant with sesame and helped to sing with its citrus-pickled fennel (genius) broccoli and yuzu mayonnaise. Top marks too for a sublime sweet potato side and creamed spinach with pine nuts. All of it looked beautiful but tasted even better.

That much-Instagrammed chocolate bombe is also worth its 15 minutes: a grenade of golden flavour whose honeycomb centre oozed out to mingle with the vanilla ice cream once the hot sauce was poured on top to make a big sticky mess.

With all this glitz & glam, you’d expect the Ivy to be expensive but it’s reasonable: a la carte starters hover about the £10 mark, mains around £20 and there’s a three-course set menu for £21 which is stunning value, all things considered.

Hats off to the Ivy team. They’ve managed to live up to the not-inconsiderable hype. From my grandmother – who toasted her 94th birthday here earlier this month – to youngsters in athleisure chinking drinks at the bar, being made to feel like royalty is surely the best measure of success.

See their menu and book here