Private Aye! Middlethorpe Hall & Spa 

Round & About

Yorkshire has a reputation for doing things proper… and Liz Nicholls is proper chuffed by her time at Middlethorpe Hall and Spa 

Yorkshire, eh? Where the tea’s strong, the opinions stronger, and the mighty portions offer plenty to write home about. This is God’s Own County – home to ancient abbeys and magnificent moors, and green fields spread beneath wide open skies like nature’s patchwork quilt.  

And there can be no better sanctuary for a rejuvenating staycation than Middlethorpe Hall & Spa. Built in 1699 and now owned by the National Trust, guest are in superbly capable hands at this country house hotel that oozes elegance. The pleasingly symmetrical Middlethorpe Hall is part of a trio of Historic House Hotels (along with Hartwell House in Bucks and Bodysgallen Hall in north Wales). There’s nothing like making a grand entrance and entering Middlethorpe, supervised by a proud stone eagle (the crest of the Barlow family) certainly makes you feel you’ve arrived in grand style. You can’t help but be bowled over by Sir Christopher Wren’s influence here, especially his Hampton Court, also of the 1690s. 

This William III masterpiece sits within 20 acres of sweeping lawns, woodland, lakeside paths, and a walled garden. Inspired by pioneering landscape designer Fanny Wilkinson, a wander through the “garden rooms,” with fragrant herb beds, espaliered fruit trees, and wildflower meadows is inspiring. A lakeside stroll through the woodland and haha reveals glimpses of deer, floral borders full of roses, and lawns so immaculate they could host a game of croquet.  

This wonderland hosts regular garden highlights for visitors, and is testament to the hard graft of the gardening team who also collaborate with award-winning head chef Ashley Binder (a born-and-bred Yorkshireman, naturally) to grow produce for the restaurant. 

Which brings us to the food — a crown jewel that makes Middlethorpe a destination in its own right. Dining here is a culinary celebration rooted in Yorkshire tradition but turbo-boosted into the culinary stratosphere by fine-dining flair. Twice named Restaurant of the Year, Middlethorpe’s restaurant holds two AA Rosettes and comprises two enchanting spaces: The Oak Room and The Pineapple Room (celebrating that symbol of wealth which is the Historic Hotels’ logo), both wood-panelled, candlelit in the evening, and overlooking those verdant lawnscapes. The food must do a lot to live up to its setting… and it does not disappoint. The menus are a work of art in themselves and the resulting dishes, showing off the locally sourced ingredients, are edible love letters to the county, and the seasons. This is mindfulness at its most delicious! The walled garden produces herbs, apples, peaches, plums and more which sing on the plate. We are still salivating, three weeks later, over the magnificent halibut with brown shrimp. Fellow foodies can return again and again to enjoy dishes such as pork with Earl Grey prunes (yes, really, and it works) and desserts which will knock your socks off, such as rhubarb tart with beurre noisette, especially with paired wines. If you’re feeling fancy or have an occasion worth toasting in epic style, put yourself in the hands of the kitchen team and go for the eight-course tasting menu (about £105pp) for an unforgettable feast. 

Another treat worth travelling for? Afternoon tea. The legacy of master pastry chef Paul Harrison, who recently hung up his apron after an incredible 40 years, lives on in every exquisite tier. Afternoon tea is served in Middlethorpe’s elegant parlours, where the atmosphere is calm and unhurried: think candy-striped chaises, crisp white linens and the gentle chime of fine china. Unwind with a pot of freshly brewed loose-leaf tea (or perhaps a glass of Champagne) before the main event arrives: a silver stand of delicacies fit for a queen. You’d be very hard pushed to find finer finger sandwiches, and the warm, buttery scones are (whisper it) even better than my grandmother’s. The top tier is a feast for the eyes: dainty patisserie, from glossy fruit tartlets to miniature éclairs and elegant slices of sponge. You can tell that everything has been freshly prepared in the kitchen, with the same emphasis on seasonality and craftsmanship.  

After all that indulgence, a stroll around the grounds is a must — but even better is booking in for the night, not least because booking an overnight stay means you can enjoy the breakfast of champions. We stayed in one of the charming courtyard suites, a dainty stroll from the main house, a heavenly home from home in the same sugary hues as the cakes in the parlour. As you’d expect from a National Trust beauty of this calibre, every guest will feel pampered in any one of the rooms, with the comfiest beds imaginable. The small details did not go unnoticed, either – fresh flowers, a writing desk that would befit Jane Austen, two bathrooms, two tellies: surely a recipe for marital bliss? There’s even a spa, with a heated indoor pool, sauna, steam room and treatments to leave you glowing head to toe.  

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