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Liz Nicholls visits the Palais Amani in the ancient city of Fez which offers cookery classes – in person and virtually – as well as spa treatments, with sunshine year-round.
Morocco is the ultimate magnet for magpies and shoppers like me. In the souk, everything glitters with possibility and colour; spices piled into ochre pyramids, leather dyed in deep jewel tones, copper pots beaten into shining dimples… In fact, I would happily visit again for the ceramics alone (my gorgeously ornate new bathroom sink shows I’m one smitten kitten).
But beyond the textiles and other treasures, it’s the tastes of a wonderful trip that linger longest. From Fez, my favourite souvenir is flavour.
Ever since my partner and I enjoyed our cookery masterclass with Fez Cooking School at the Palais Amani, I’ve cooked our showcase dishes – zaalouk and chicken tagine – pretty much on rotation. And I’m delighted to tell you that these recipes (you can watch the videos and find my foodie articles too) are worth the time and effort. They result in authentic Moroccan dishes that warm the heart and soul, back in Blighty.
Now let’s go back to Fez for a moment (yes please!) to set the scene… Imperial Fez was founded at the start of the 9th century during Idris II’s reign.
It rapidly became Morocco’s artistic, religious and intellectual capital. Essentially unchanged since the 12th century, Fez remains one of the most important Muslim capitals in the world, alongside Damascus, Baghdad, Cordoba, Istanbul and Alexandria.
It’s also home to the world’s oldest university, Karaouine, founded in 859 by visionary noblewoman Fatima al-Fihri. Living as I do in Oxford, let me tell you that Fez offers a multi-sensory feast and is an eye-opening destination, offering an especially welcome escape during the gloom and chill of British winter.
At the heart of the city is the Medina. In Morocco, the souk is a humming, buzzing marketplace where daily life and tradition are woven together. This is not just shopping – souks are communal hubs where locals gather to buy goods, socialise and swap gossip. These markets have been vibrant centres of commerce and craftsmanship for over a millennium, earning them UNESCO World Heritage status.
Each souk in Fez possesses a distinct character, often named after the specific goods sold here. The most famous, the tannery quarter, AKA Chouara, showcases centuries-old manual, organic leather production methods. Here, from the elevated terraces of shops stocked with a kaleidoscope of high-quality leather goods – bags, slippers and jackets – you can peer down into the iconic colourful dye pits.
The laborious process uses ammonia and floral dyes to transform raw animal hides into durable, soft and beautiful leather. Let me tell you, the authentic acrid smell will take your breath away, which is why vendors often offer visitors a welcome sprig of mint to sniff. A reminder that balance is everything in Moroccan life.
Not for the faint-hearted, the medina is a world away from a quick supermarket dash. I’ve travelled a fair bit and can honestly say I found the labyrinth of almost 9,500 alleyways (plus more than a thousand cul-de-sacs) enchanting and bewildering in equal measure.
It was here, ambling along the narrow, pungent passageways, that I suddenly found myself ambushed by a herd of sheep. You might have heard my shrieks back in the UK, although the local boys were highly entertained (as shown by my partner’s video footage). Honestly, it reminded me of nowhere else on Earth – I felt as though I’d stumbled on to Tatooine.
Thankfully, amid this glorious chaos, Palais Amani offers an oasis of calm. Hidden behind vast carved wooden doors in the ancient heart of Fez, the riad feels like stepping into another world. Birds sing in the courtyard garden scented with orange blossom, sunlight flickers across intricate zellige tiles and the pace of life slows down.
The hotel offers the finest Moroccan hospitality, with 21 beautiful bedrooms and suites, alfresco dining including exquisite breakfasts (with black olives) and an underground hammam where you can have your troubles scrubbed away, making you feel reborn.
It’s here, high above the rooftops with sweeping views across the minarets and honey-coloured walls, that we learned to cook the Moroccan staples we’ve been enjoying ever since.
For a truly authentic break and to understand a country’s culture, “you need to eat it”, says Palais Amani’s head chef Houssam Laasiri. After going to buy our fresh produce, under the guidance of Meryem and Fatima, we donned our Fez hats (Tommy Cooper impressions optional) to get stuck into learning the craft. The smoky zaalouk, fragrant chicken tagine and orange blossom-scented jawhara dessert instantly transport me back to Fez with every mouthful. (Watch this space for our veggie cooking special in print & online soon!)
Fez is intense, noisy, aromatic and occasionally overwhelming. But if you’re willing to embrace the sensory whirlwind, this extraordinary city rewards you with unforgettable flavours, craftsmanship, warmth and memories you’ll be enjoying for years to come.
What’s more, the calm beauty of the Palais Amani and the TLC the dedicated team offers make this the perfect, even life-changing escape.
Fez is often described as chaotic, but that feels like only half the story. It’s also deeply ordered in its own way – a city where craft, food and ritual still define daily life. We visited during the Holy month of Ramadan, which was a vibe – I’ve never enjoyed such warm welcomes and laughter. And nowhere is this more visible than the cookery school, where tradition is not performed, but shared generously.
Visit palaisamani.com for stays or to book into the cookery school.
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