Discover a different style of Rioja wine. Round & About’s wine columnist Giles Luckett recommends 8 Riojas that offer a new perspective on this classic region…
I was sharing a bottle of Rioja with a friend of mine a few days ago, and he asked, ‘Don’t you ever get tired of Rioja?’ I made to reply, ‘Oh no, I love Chilean wines’ (a sommelier once asked him which Rioja he’d like, and he said ‘A Chilean one’), but he gave me pause for thought. I do drink a lot of Rioja, and I never get tired of it. Why? Because there’s an amazing diversity of styles and flavours on offer. You could drink nothing but Rioja for a week and twice on Sundays without repeating the experience.
So, for all you Rioja wine lovers – Chilean and the more commonly seen Spanish ones, sorry, Ed! – here are eight expressions of this majestic wine that I would urge you to try.
I’ve mentioned my love of white Rioja before. Once something best avoided, it’s now one of the best value white wines you can find, with the top wines – Contino Blanco (Noble Grape £23.99) or Viña Tondonia Blanco Reserva (£115 Berry Bros & Rudd) – fit to rank with the world’s finest whites.
My current favourite is the Muga Blanco (Majestic £12.99). This is a modern-style white Rioja in that it’s fermented in steel and then sees only three months of oak ageing. The result is a fresh, tangy wine that offers barrel loads of peach, spiced pears, grape and grapefruit flavours with just a hint of cream.
Rioja isn’t famous for its sparkling wines, which is a shame as some of the best Spanish sparkling wines I’ve ever had have been from here. Take the Azabache Brut Metodo Tradicional Rioja, Fincas de Azabache (Corks £22.95). There are only 8,500 bottles of this beauty made each year, and it’s a once-tried, never-forgotten experience. Produced from white Tempranillo (who knew? I didn’t) in the traditional method, this is a wine that combines vibrancy with complexity. The nose is fruit-driven, with all manner of yellow berries jostling for your attention, while in the mouth, citrus mingles with yeast against a backdrop of baked apples. This is a great aperitif or works equally well with smoked fish.
Rosé Rioja, or rosado to give its proper title, is almost always great fun but rarely serious. A big exception to this rule is the Alegra de Beronia (Majestic £11.99). It’s worth buying just for the bottle, which is just as elegant and refined as the wine inside. Blushing amber pink, this Garnache-Tempranillo blend offers a rose and cheery nose, while the soft, generous palate combines strawberries and red cherries with notes of peach and nectarine. Gentle as a summer breeze, try this on its own or with fresh seafood or lightly cured pork.
Rioja is big on value for money, and if you’re looking for a lighter style with more personality than the Groucho Club on a Saturday night, look to the Cune Ciranza (Sainsbury’s £10). I was introduced to this when I was at Harrods’ wine department, and it blew my young palate away. More years than I care (or can) remember, it’s still a firm favourite. Mid-red, it’s bouquet is of crushed black and red berries with a hint of vanilla and smoke. Fruity and forward on the palate, it has all the classic Rioja elements of berry fruits, spices, orange zest, and cream but is presented in an easy-going, rounded, gentle style.
Another wine that shows Rioja’s eminent affordability is the Wine Society’s Rioja (£8.50). This is a very traditional style of Rioja, with plenty of spicy American oak, plenty or extraction, and a goodly quantity of stewed black fruits, given a lift by highlights of Seville oranges and cranberries. Smooth as silk and rich as Bezos, this is another great wine to keep to hand, and at £8.50, it’s worth joining the Society to get it.
Up to now, the wines I’ve recommended have been produced from classic blends, such as Tempranillo and Garnacha or Viura and Malvasia. My next recommendation is both a varietal, made from a single-grape type, and made from one of the less well-known Rioja varieties. It’s the Beronia Graciano (Vinissimus £20). I warn you now, this is not for the faint of heart; this is a Rioja for those looking for power and intensity. Red black, the nose is a dark, brooding affair with stewed black fruits, earthy spices and woodsmoke. The palate is weighty, concentrated, and broad. Prunes, blackberries, herbs, boysenberries, vanilla, charcoal, and a lift of lavender make for a fascinating mouthful. This is a wine that’s capable of long ageing but is sensational now with roasted meats, strong hard cheeses, and pâté.
My next wine is a Riojan legend, the Imperial Reserva 2018 (Waitrose £26.99). Imperial is a wine that blends tradition with modernity and offers one of the great Rioja wine experiences. A blend of Tempranillo, Graciano and Mazuelo, aged in a combination of American and French oak, freshness and depth combine here in a wonderfully stylish way. The nose brims with zesty red and black berries, which are pinned back by smoke, cream and violets. At first sip, it comes across as clean, delicate, light even, but the blackcurrant and bramble fruit’s piercing intensity is soon backed up by notes of roasted meat, minerals, dried cherries, sandalwood, orange zest and green herbs. A fine wine by anyone’s definition, this too will develop over decades.
I’ll finish with a flourish, with the Coscojares Vindedo Singular Rioja, Fincas de Azabache (Corks and Cru £47.50), which shows how Rioja’s Garnacha (France’s Grenache) can play the starring role. Made from a tiny parcel of vines on a 1.9-hectare vineyard, all of which were planted before 1955 at high altitude, the results is a wonderfully subtle, complex wine that oozes class and complexity. Mid-red, it offers a combination of red cherries, dried strawberries, and damsons, with intriguing touches of aged balsamic vinegar, pepper, caramel, and raspberries. Ideal with everything from belly pork to goats’ cheese, it will develop beautifully over the coming decade.
Well, that’s it for now. I do hope you’ll try some of these fantastic wines so you can enjoy the many faces of Rioja.
Next time out, Chile. No, really, it will be Chile!
Celebrated singer-songwriter Charlie Dore will perform at Chequers Folk Club in Great Kingshill on 20th September and Abingdon’s Unicorn Theatre on 21st September as part of her biggest tour for five years.
Charlie Dore has penned hits for Tina Turner, Celine Dion, George Harrison, Lisa Stansfield & Jimmy Nail. On this tour she will perform songs from her own impressive and acclaimed back catalogue.
Known for her observations of human nature, exquisite sense of melody and impeccable storytelling, Charlie has always performed and released music on her own terms, earning cult-like status among fans new and old.
As ever, she will be joined by her multi-instrumentalist co-pilot Julian Littman of Steeleye Span.
“Applying ourselves to this longer Short Circuit tour also gives us ample opportunity to feature some of my lesser-known (but often secretly favourite) songs,” says Charlie. “It’s great to have the freedom to experiment and rework these songs and have them share the spotlight. I’m always excited to see what the response will be.
“So far, Short Circuit has taken us from Scotland to Somerset and it’s been gratifying to share the music we’ve discovered – there’s an exclusivity about it. We enjoy taking risks, and renewing the sets in this way feels like the perfect way to conclude our Short Circuit adventure.”
To book tickets and more details please visit Charlie Dore.
Martin Beeching from Whiteknights Indoor Bowls Club extols the benefits and invites you to have a go at an open day
Tucked away near the top of Beech Lane, Earley, Reading is one of England’s finest indoor bowls clubs and we are currently recruiting new members.
With seven bowls rinks and 800 members, Whiteknights is a professionally managed club which caters for all levels – from beginners to international players. We are a welcoming and friendly club with a full bar, superb new café, lounge plus large on-site car park.
We run regular free bookable taster sessions for total novices and all ability levels. All you need to bring with you is flat-soled shoes, such as trainers.
Why not reserve a free ‘Taster Session’ at one of our open days on Sundays 1st October or 8th October. Players with experience are also welcome to come along and try out our excellent facilities. If neither date is convenient, then contact us and we will find an alternative time.
To book a session – email our manager Andy Knapper at [email protected] or telephone 0118 986 0759, (if you leave a message, we will get back to you).
The benefits of bowling can be helpful to both your social and physical well-being. Dr John McKenzie (Health & Safety Director at Whiteknights) says: “As people approach middle age and beyond, it is vitally important they exercise regularly.
“Flat green bowls helps build core strength plus improve flexibility and circulation. It can also keep the brain active, so it’s the ideal sport for both able-bodied plus the less able of all ages.
Book in to enjoy the award-winning Shrek the Musical in Oxford this week, conjured up by a new creative team with a fabulous cast…
You’re invited to leave your troubles Far Far Away and join the adventure as Shrek and Donkey endeavour to complete their quest of defeating the dragon and saving Princess Fiona. Featuring fabulous songs including I’m A Believer, Big Bright Beautiful World and I Know It’s Today, Shrek The Musical has cemented itself as the ‘musical extravaganza for big kids and little kids alike’.
From the producers of Hairspray and Priscilla Queen of the Desert, Shrek The Musical brings together a new creative team to re-imagine this award-winning Broadway and West End hit show for a new audience, featuring all the classic characters from the Oscar®-winning DreamWorks animated film and the iconic songs and story from David Lindsay-Abaire and Jeanine Tesori’s original musical.
Rising star Cherece Richards (Once on This Island, Regent’s Park Theatre) will make her debut in a principal role as the Dragon, joining the Shrek-tacular principal cast lineup which includes Antony Lawrence (Shrek), Joanne Clifton (Princess Fiona), James Gillan (Lord Farquaad) and Brandon Lee Sears (Donkey) touring through to April to a total of 31 venues.
The ensemble cast of Shrek the Musical will include Leo Abad, Soctty Armstrong, Imogen Bailey, Jabari Braham, Georgie Buckland, Natasha Cayabyab, Mark Darcy, Jonathan David Dudley, Remi Ferdinand, Sonny Grieveson, Edward Leigh, Bethany Kate, Jessica Lim, Andile Mabhena, Bronte MacMillan, India Thornton. Talia Duff, Gabby Gregorian, Roy Shafford and Jamie Jonathan complete the full cast line-up.
Antony Lawrence will play Shrek (Scar in The Lion King (International Tour) as well as Mary Poppins (National Tour), Matilda the Musical (Cambridge Theatre/RSC) and We Will Rock You (International Arena Tour).
He says: “The great thing about doing Shrek, because it’s a well-known story, is that we already know the characters. There’s the double-edged sword of wanting to make the characters your own and the relationships your own, but at the same time there is an element of audience expectation. It’s finding that balance of wanting to give them what they know, but at the same time we want to find our Shrek and our Fiona and our chemistry between ourselves. That’s what makes doing a live version so fantastic, as you get the best of both worlds.
“Normally as an actor, when you’re on stage, if you feel like you need to burp, you’re fighting that urge. The great thing about playing a character like Shrek, who is very flatulent and farts and burps all the way through the show, is that if I need to burp, I’ll just burp, at any point, and it’ll be completely natural!”
Every 90 seconds someone is admitted to a UK hospital with a head injury. Here is a special chance to come and see inside Headway Surrey, you never know when you might need our services.
Headway Surrey covers the whole of the county and offer face to face services, and online sessions.
Come and have a look around, we will have a display of some of our work and activities, some art and some of the tools that we use to help people to rebuild their cognition and executive skills, meet the Hospital Link Workers who visit surrounding hospitals to support those admitted with a brain injury and their families, meet the Joint CEOs, Rehab Coordinators and Assistants and Trustees, find out just what we do at Headway Surrey and if we can help you, or alternatively if you can help us.
We are holding the Open Day for anyone who might have an interest in our local Surrey wide charity, and an interest in brain injury, whether a brain injured person, a family member, medical or care professional, potential volunteer, potential Trustee or Chair, or potential local company looking for a worthwhile local charity to support.
Headway Surrey Joint CEO, Sonja Freebody, says: “We are delighted to open our doors for people to just pop in. We want to help as many as people as possible, so please come and have a look around. You might be a professional who wants to know more, you may be a person with a brain injury, or perhaps you are looking after someone. You might be looking for a local volunteering opportunity. Come and find out.”
The Open Day is on Friday 13th October from 10am-4pm at the Headway Centre, Headway House, 21 North Road, Guildford, GU2 9PU.
No booking required, just turn up. Free entry. We have five spaces directly outside the office and there is free on road parking along North Road, Stoughton Road and Cardwell’s Keep. Refreshments will be available (tea, coffee, cake and biscuits). Donations welcome.
There will be raffle tickets on sale to raise much needed funds and Christmas cards and a small selection of gifts (early Christmas shopping). We have some great prizes and vouchers coming in. If you can’t attend but would like to purchase some raffle tickets, please go to Open Day | Headway Surrey.
What causes a brain injury?
Well, it can be from stroke, road traffic incident, sports accident, trip, fall, assault, combat, domestic violence, hypoxia (lack of oxygen), aneurysm (bleed on the brain), brain tumour, encephalitis, meningitis, carbon monoxide poisoning and many other things.
Headway Surrey has a wide range of services that can be accessed at different times of people’s recovery journey. Such as: 1:1 support, group sessions, counselling sessions, helpline, drop-in sessions, coffee mornings, social sessions, art, creative writing, boccia, young people’s group, walking and talking group with speech and language therapist students, online professional lunch and learn sessions, 6-week online courses for those with a brain injury and a separate one for family members, we can help survivors obtain a Brain Injury ID card.
If you can’t make the date, then please do contact us at anytime and arrange an appointment to look around. More details at Home | Headway Surrey and enquiries can be made to [email protected] 01483 454433
Columnist Robbie James says we still have a long way to go – but we can take tentative positives from the recent situation surrounding Luis Rubiales
Aside from filming a new TV Show in Scotland, trying to deal with summer being over, and watching Driving School (which is my new favourite TV show that you need to watch because it’s beyond funny), I’ve spent a lot of time digesting the complete madness of the Luis Rubiales case.
It’s one of the most mind boggling, head spinning, saddest stories I can remember (and think about the last few years of news).
I’m a white, straight, privileged male – I have absolutely no idea what Jenni Hermoso must be experiencing, nor how the rest of the Spanish team must feel, who put so much hard work into achieving something so incredible, only for it to be overshadowed by this mess.
Whilst it’s horrifying and utterly bizarre – the outpouring of support I’ve seen for Hermoso recently must give us some hope that whilst we clearly still have so far to go in terms of addressing the gender imbalance, we are making small steps forward.
Would this story have seen such coverage five or ten years ago? I highly doubt it. These sorts of stories have often divided opinion in the past, but this time it feels like the vast majority of people are in agreement that Rubiales has done a terrible thing. Things seem to be improving to the extent that more men are willing to stand up against those who discriminate or act upon archaic ideologies. And this is the demographic that needs to step up.
It’s not enough to just ‘not agree’ with these things. We need to be so much more proactive than we have been in the past when it comes to championing women.
Similarly with sport. If you like football, great. Watch Women’s football. Shout about Women’s Football – it’s people like us who need to play a part in swinging the pendulum into equilibrium. Plus, women’s football is genuinely brilliant, and these talented people deserve the attention. It’s lazy to just watch men’s football because it’s so accessible and the ‘done thing’.
I’m aware this comes across as very ‘do this now, and now do that’. We’re all a work in progress but if it didn’t preach this here this would be a very hypocritical column. Anyway, back to Driving School (seriously, watch it for an injection of joy).
From 9th to 17th September, in an experience like no other, more than 130 events will take place across the country to show the public what life as a racehorse is really like.
Racehorse training yards, studs and retraining centres will open their doors and invite everyone to get up close to the equine stars of horseracing, providing family-friendly demonstrations, exciting displays, and a unique day out with something for everyone. Most events are free of charge, with more than 13,500 spaces available.
TV personality Chris Hughes, who is a racehorse owner and ambassador for National Racehorse Week said: “The impact of getting up close to a horse cannot be underestimated. And racing has created a unique opportunity through National Racehorse Week to help people meet these incredible animals, experience the life of a thoroughbred and talk to the dedicated teams who care for them 365 days a year. There is nothing quite like this is any other sport. It is fantastic that the events are free to attend with everyone welcome to join.”
Eve Johnson Houghton is a leading racehorse trainer, based high on the Berkshire Downs – a perfect setting for training thoroughbred horses. Alongside a hosted yard tour and chance to meet the racehorses at Woodway there will be a charity raffle, cake sale and guess the winner competition with proceeds going to Racing Welfare and Air Ambulance.
Kim Bailey has trained over 1400 winners and is lucky enough to have achieved the magical “Big Three”, The Grand National (Mr Frisk), The Cheltenham Gold Cup (Master Oats) and The Champion Hurdle (Alderbrook). He will welcome visitors to meet the stars of his yards and see horses exercising.
Run by Great British Racing, with principal funding from The Racing Foundation and The Horserace Betting Levy Board, National Racehorse Week is the sport’s biggest campaign to bring people across Britain behind the scenes of racing to show the incredible work that goes into the care of thoroughbreds, and give real-life insights into the lives racehorses lead.
Our wine columnist Giles Luckett explores the harvest of a magical region of Australia
Hello. A few years ago I was fortunate enough to go on a press trip to Australia. Over the course of three weeks, we toured many of this amazing wine country’s regions, visited some extraordinary wineries and met some of the most passionate, innovative, and creative winemakers I’ve ever encountered.
While I discovered the weird (Lucy Margaux’s ‘natural’ wines) and the wonderful (BK Wines’ Savagnin, one of my abiding memories was our trip to Yalumba. This historic, family-owned producer is Australian wine royalty and our extensive tasting was fantastic, revealing a winery that did things its way and one that wasn’t afraid to take risks in the pursuit of excellence.
I recently had the opportunity to taste a range of Yalumba’s wines again (highlights below), some of which I knew and some of which were new to me. I was delighted to see their innovative spirit continue – the Roussanne was a lovely surprise – and I asked Yalumba’s winemaker Louisa Rose to tell me a little more about their wines…
Louisa Rose – head of winemaking at Yalumba
Q. You make a wide range of wines – from unoaked dry whites to fortified wines – what’s the uniting philosophy behind them?
“We seek to sustainably craft wines that reflect a thoughtful interpretation of grape, terroir and house style. Wines of individuality that are both timeless and contemporary. Wines of conviction and provenance. This philosophy spans our full offering, but there is a tailored approach to meet market requirements. We focus on natural appellation, a long view of the wine-style evolution, akin to a slow wine philosophy. At the same time, we are responsive to market opportunities by way of ‘new’ varieties, styles and fashions, whilst still holding true to our legacy and beliefs, raising the bar, and building value.”
Q. Your wines span the classics – Shiraz, Cabernet, Grenache etc. – but I’ve seen new Mediterranean varieties coming through such as Tempranillo and Pinot Grigio. Are you producing these as you have the right sites for them or is there another reason?
“Shiraz, Cabernet and Grenache are varieties that came to Australia early in the history of white settlement. The Barossa is home to the oldest vineyards of all three of these varieties in the world – still growing and producing wines, (Shiraz planted 1843, Grenache 1848, Cabernet 1888). This says something about the suitability of the sites we have to those varieties. At the same time Australian winemakers like to trial new things and experiment. Much of this work does not result in new wines necessarily, but it all helps influence our thoughts and practices. At Yalumba we are fortunate to have a wonderful nursery; a world-class nursery that grows healthy vines for vineyard expansions and is set up to propagate ‘new’ varieties when they come out of quarantine. We have trialled many varieties over the years, and some we like enough to take to the next stage after experimentation. Viognier, Pinot Grigio and Tempranillo are examples of this. Ultimately, they do well as they are suited to the sites we plant them, but the only way to find out what the right sites are is trial and error. It’s probably not surprising that many of the varieties we are looking at in the nursery are particularly suited to warm climates.”
Q. The recent vintage was one of the most challenging of recent years for many. How did you find it and aside from being of high quality, how would you describe the vintage’s character?
“2023 was challenging in the Barossa due to the wetter-than-usual spring conditions, which resulted in a later-than-usual start to the season, and ultimately a later-than-usual vintage. As the ripening gets later in the season, the days get shorter, and the ripening slows down even more. This can be a challenge then to get the grapes growing in the later ripening sites fully ripe. Luckily the season was kind to us and we had good warm weather into Autumn that got most of the grapes to their ideal place. We are very happy with the quality, across the varieties and styles. The whites loved the cooler season retaining good acidity and aromatics, and the reds had plenty of stress-free ‘hang time’ to get flavour and tannin ripeness.”
Q. Are there any vines you’re thinking of adding or would like to add? I had some excellent Pinot Nero, Nero d’Avola, and Arneis the last time I was in Australia.
“We are always thinking! There are a few things in our minds and vineyards, but from thinking about importing a new variety to having something ready to drink is at least a 10-year process… so patience really is a virtue.”
Q. How are you dealing with climate change? Some of the winemakers I’ve spoken to have expressed concerns about conditions becoming more difficult and growing seasons significantly shorter. Are you ‘going up or going south’ or are you trying to deal with the changing conditions with things like more canopy management and other vineyard techniques?
“Australia and the Barossa is used to extremes of climate, and we have many management techniques in our vineyards to mitigate, particularly against heat. Not that we are not concerned about climate change, particularly when it comes to water availability, but we know that we can make wines that are great expression of our region(s) in the cooler (like 23) and warmer seasons.
“Some of the things we do in the vineyards to buffer them against temperature changes include, using mulches under vine, growing grasses between the rows to keep the environment cooler and stop reflection of heat, increasing biodiversity in the vineyard, changes in trellis design and canopy management to keep grapes shaded by the leaves, and even using ‘sunscreen’. The sunscreen is kaolin clay, mixed in water and sprayed on the leaves. It is very effective in stopping burning of the leaf tissue in heat waves. Our old vines, which have so much of their biomass under the ground, are also buffered against day-to-day weather events more than younger vines maybe. Increasing biodiversity in vineyards and surrounds, and increasing soil carbon and microflora should also help the vines increase their natural resilience.
“One of the very tangible things we are doing to combat climate change is actively measuring and reducing our greenhouse gas emissions as Silver Members of the International Wineries for Climate Action (IWCA) is a collaborative working group of wineries committed to reducing carbon emissions across the wine industry. Currently over 40 wineries from nine countries are working together on this, in partnership with the United Nations Race to Zero campaign.”
Q. You still make a range of of fortified. Is this a heritage thing or do they find a ready market?
“We do still make a little bit of fortified wine. There is certainly a market for it, but it is also a heritage thing.”
Q. If you had to pick one of your wines to drink which would you choose and why?
“This is an impossible question without context… where am I… who am I with… what am I eating… how do I feel? Maybe I will just have a glass of our Tricentenary (planted 1889) Grenache while I wait for the answer!
GL: Thanks, Louisa. On the basis of my recent tasting, I’m with you on the Tricentenary.
Yalumba wines you must try
While I’ve never had a bad wine from Yalumba, there are some that have consistently stood out for me, or, in the case of the Roussanne, which were new and head-turning. So, here are my current loves from an impressive Yalumba’s range.
I’ll start my recommendations with the Y Series Chardonnay (winedirect £11.30). I always think it’s a bold move to make an unoaked Chardonnay. Partly as I think most consumers expect Chardonnay to be wooded – especially when it comes to New World examples – and because you need to be sure your fruit’s got the character to pull off a solo performance. The Y Series pulls it off in style. The nose combines freshness with tropical fruit and a subtle touch of vanilla, while on the palate the flavours of red apple, peach, pear and grapefruit are lively, intense, and mask of oak, seem more focused, and pure. Try this with oily fish, pork and seafood.
Yalumba have a reputation for creating great wines from Rhône varieties, and while their Viognier and Grenache garner much of the critics’ applause they have other wines that are equally exciting. Their Eden Valley Roussanne (winedirect £15.75) is a fascinating wine. Straw green-gold, the bouquet offers camomile, rose petals, herbs and (to me at, least) green wood. The palate is fresh and clean, but has an underlying richness as flavours as diverse as white peach, vanilla, orange peel, citrus and almonds come together to give an intriguing whole. This is a wine for the mind, one to sip and savour either on its own or with mushroom risotto, baked white fish or roasted artichokes.
The Virgilius Viognier (London End Wines £36) is acknowledged as a bright star in Yalumba’s firmament. The 2018 is a jaw-droppingly good wine, one that’s fit to rank with the Rhône’s finest Condrieu. Pale gold, the nose is a riot spiced apricots, cardamom, ginger, lychees and nose-tingling kumquats. This mighty mouthful’s creamy, unctuous body delivers wave after wave of apricot and dried pear fruit, mixed spice, orange peel, and honey, balanced and restrained by a fine, cleansing acidity. It’s big, bold, and beautiful, and has a long, golden future ahead of it.
And so to the reds. Australia makes some of the greatest varietal Cabernet Sauvignon in the world, with its Coonawarra wines being perhaps its finest of all. The Cigar Cabernet 2018 (Laithwaites £25) is certainly one of the best Cabernets I’ve had this year. Inky and brooding, the nose is piercing, full of fresh blackcurrants, green peppers, spices, cigar box, and raspberries but, as in the mouth, the more you investigate, the more you discover. Tones of the undergrowth, stewed plums, blackcurrant conserve, mint, bitter chocolate, earth and redcurrants all emerge. This powerful wine is lithe and elegant and is a must for red meats, sheep’s cheese, tomato-based dishes or on its own with good friends.
I couldn’t talk about Yalumba’s wines and not mention Grenache. For many years Grenache has been spoken of as having the potential to make Australia’s greatest reds. Alas, as in so many places, this vine’s natural generosity has been exploited leading to the productions of lakes of moderately coloured, moderately flavoured, massively alcoholic quaffing wines. Yalumba clearly respects it, and the Samuel’s Collection Barossa Bush Vine Grenache 2019 (Sarah’s Cellar £20) shows what it can do in the right hands. Mid-red, the aroma is a cheerful, inviting blend of cherries, raspberries and pomegranates, with floral and vanilla touches. The palate is juicy, plump, with all the hard edges of a ball pit. There’s weight to the cherry, strawberry, and blackberry fruit, and freshness is leant by a delicate red berry acidity. I’d serve this with roasted guinea fowl or gammon.
My penultimate choice reflects Australia’s brilliance at blends. Legend has it that winemakers put Cabernet with Shiraz as they had no Merlot, Australian Merlot being in the words of one famous Aussie winemaker, ‘a nice idea’. The Samuel’s Collection Barossa Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2018 (Vinum £16.70) is a Rhône blend (Mataro being France’s Mourvèdre) that delivers a wine with a lightness of touch that you’re unlikely to find in say, Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Peppered black and red fruits dominate the nose, while on the palate black cherries, prunes, raspberries, cranberries and spiced almonds come together to produce a wine of harmonious complexity. This is a wine I’ve always enjoyed with lamb and pheasant – the juicy, peppery tone just seems to go perfectly, but it’s great with barbecued foods and Hong Kong-style spare ribs.
I’ll finish on a high with a wine that’s produced from vines that date back to 1889. The Tri-Centenary Grenache (Vinum £40) is a wine like no other, and not just because of the 100-day post-fermentation maceration which (so I’m told) explains its extraordinary fine, velvety mouthfeel. This is undoubtedly one of the world’s great wine experiences. The aged, low-yielding Grenache vines give a super concentrated glassful of red and black cherries, prunes, chocolate, mint, dried strawberries and a lovely, mellow herb butter tone to the finish. Powerful enough to stand up to well-flavoured red meats and herby, softly spiced vegetarian dishes, this should be on every serious wine lover’s must-taste list.
Well, that’s it for now. Next time out I’ll run down my top ten Chilean wines.
Independent music photographer Peter Nicholson shares his pictures of Southsea favourite Victorious last weekend
With many festivals in 2023 having to endure unseasonably bad weather, Victorious enjoyed a small window of summer over the final weekend of August. With an enviable line-up, and its position on Southsea seafront, the festival promised to be a seaside musical spectacle.
The weekend certainly lived up to that promise. This year’s festival was the biggest in its history. The area on Southsea common had been opened up even further, and all the stages were open for all three days. With up to 70,000 people attending each day of the weekend, it has certainly become one of the region’s biggest and most anticipated music events.
The headliner on each of the three days, could have graced any stage in the world and not been out of place. Jamiroquai, Kasabian, The Kaiser Chiefs, Mumford and Sons, Pete Tong, Alt-J, Ellie Goulding and Blossoms among the biggest names on the line-up.
Jamiroquai closed the main stage on Friday evening with a superb nostalgic trip through his 30 plus years of touring. Now in his fifties, and joking with the crown that he was heavier than he was in the 1990s, the feather headdress – wearing front man, showed no sign of wanting to slow down. His energy and stage presence were as evident as ever.
The Kaiser Chiefs, Kasabian and Mumford & Sons were the headliners on Saturday and Sunday. All of which received a fantastic welcome from the huge crowds. The light shows, sound systems were as impressive as the performances.
One of the other things the Victorious team seem to get right every year is how they support smaller and local artists. With a collection of stages across the site, the biggest challenge for any attendee is planning a route so as not to miss any of the acts they came to see! This challenge was mitigated by the excellent app that was available for the event. It allowed you to plan where to be and when. However, being late for a stage time, probably meant you were side-tracked by one of the on the other stages on your route! The World Music stage was one of the busiest areas, as was the acoustic stage. Both of which boasted a line-up that had talent enough for the main stages.
The whole weekend was a credit to the organisers and to the city of Portsmouth.
Popular cross country horse ride returns at Windsor Great Park
Windsor Lions are delighted their popular cross country horse ride in Windsor Great Park will be taking place this year on the weekend of 9th and 10th September.
Very sadly the event had to be cancelled last year due to the death of our much-loved queen, but such is the popularity of the ride that entries have now closed: the weekend is fully booked with riders numbering a fantastic 750 plus!
The ride, which is in its fifth decade, allows riders of all ages and mixed abilities to enjoy the nine-mile course around beautiful parkland otherwise inaccessible to many riders.
Event Organiser Richard Vaughan is very happy with the support for the ride: “We are so pleased that we can welcome riders back after the sad cancellation last year, and even more so as we have a number of new and exciting jumps which we are sure many will enjoy.
“The event takes place at the kind permission of the authorities in Windsor Great Park for which we are always very grateful. And of course, all the entry fees and sponsorship money from our wonderful riders and our generous commercial sponsor The Shanly Foundation, enables us to fund the great work that Windsor Lions Club carries out in the Community – such as Prostate Cancer Screening event earlier this year and our Santa Sleigh which will be back on the streets of Windsor in December.”
