Rioja’s Finest Wines: Viñedo Singular  

White Rioja is a secret star of the region. Although white grapes only account for 10% of Rioja’s plantings, when white Rioja is good, it’s a world-class wine. A delicious example is the Bodegas Perica, Finca Valdelascarretas 2020 (Thorne Wines £36.95). Just 375 cases of this pear, apricot, orange peel, honey and dried fruit-scented wine were produced, and on the palate, there’s a wonderful tension between honey-dipped, yellow-skinned fruits and the firm, cleansing lemony acidity. Bone dry but with a luxurious body imparted by the length of oak ageing, this is a great example of this underrated wine. 

Beronia may not be the oldest producer in Rioja having been founded by a group of wine-loving friends in 1973, but in a relatively short period they’ve managed to carve out an outstanding reputation. Made in the traditional style using modern techniques, the Beronia Reserva (Sainsbury’s £16.50) is a staple in our house. Their Viñedo Singular is the Vareia by Beronia (Wines of the World £41). This is a wine that screams old-world charm and speaks volumes about Beronia’s commitment to excellence. Very deeply coloured even for a Rioja, the juicy, rich stewed plum, blackberry and black cherry fruit is supported by a firm set of rounded tannins and bordered by a lively yet gentle red berry acidity. The ample oak isn’t allowed to mask the fruit and has been skilfully integrated to add cigar smoke and cream to the mix. Lovely now, it’s got a great future. 

The Bodegas Tarón, Tarón Cepas Centenarias was new to me, but it’s a wine I shall seek out again. Produced from 100-year-old Tempranillo vines grown at 500m above sea level, this is Rioja at its most intense. Wonderfully deeply coloured, the nose is a heady mix of black berries, mulberries, sage, liquorice and vanilla spice. Mouth-filling and rich, the French oak ageing adds a creamy note with the fresh, loganberry acidity, fine, grainy tannins and chalky finish making it a wonderful partner to red meats or yellow cheeses. This will age magnificently. 

It was love at first sight and sip for me with the Azabache Coscojares Vinedo Singular Rioja 2018 (Findlays £38.99). How could you not love this dumpy little bottle? Made exclusively from Garnacha at an altitude of 520m, this is Rioja refinement par excellence. Deep red with a sumptuous nose of cassis, cherries, plums, toasty vanilla, and a touch of balsamic, the Christmas cake-rich palate is wonderfully fruity and super smooth, and there’s savoury tobacco, sage, mint, and orange zest on the finish. Lovely now, there’s a lot more to come from this, and if you’re lucky enough to find the 2019, expect even more. What a wine!

Next, a wine that warrants its 98/100 score from The Wine Advocate, the Bodega Lanzaga, Tabuerniga Rioja 2020 (VINUM £87). The brainchild of one of Spain’s greatest winemakers, Telmo Rodriguez, with its fragrant blend of wild herbs, dusty earth, olives and spices it’s wonderfully evocative of the land on which it was produced. Cherry red, and with a silky smooth, polished feel, it offers delicious tones of red berries, cherries, aged balsamic, woody spices and blackberries to the finish. Powerful yet refined, decant and enjoy this now with fine foods or stash it away for another decade or more.

Contino is widely regarded as one of Rioja’s greatest estates and the Contino Reserva 2020 (Tesco £27) is a brilliant example of this famed producer’s wines. Only made in excellent years with 2020 being rated by the governing body, the Consejo Regulador de la Denominación de Origen Calificada Rioja, as ‘Very Good’, this is a mighty, magnificent wine, one that drinks well young but has seemingly endless ageing potential. Blue-black, the nose is an exotic mix of blackberries and blueberries furled in a spicy vanilla and herb coating.  Full-bodied and well-textured, on the palate there is everything from plums and cassis to citrus peel and sage by way of charcoal and raspberries.  Buy a case now (trust me, it’s a bargain) enjoy a couple now with roasted red meats or feisty cheese and drink the rest over the coming decade or so.

I can’t mention Rioja’s royalty and not recommend a wine by C.V.N.E. I honestly don’t think I’ve ever had a bad wine from them, and I’ve tasted their wines a lot. The Cune Crianza (Sainsbury’s £10.95) and their Cune Barrel Fermented Rioja Blanco (Majestic £10.99) are brilliant wines that offer exceptional value for money. For this article though I’ll highlight the Vina Real La Virgen 2020 (VINUM £65.90). Produced from 40-year-old vines on a tiny two-hectare plot which lies in the foothills of the Toloño mountains which afford it protection from winds and gives the grapes warm days and cool nights during the growing season.  This preserves the acidity and gives the wine its distinctive elegance. This is an enchanting but serious wine.  Its bouquet boasts blackberries, blueberries, currants and liquorice, while the soft palate is loaded with succulent black fruits enhanced by notes of cherries, chocolate, vanilla and vibrant red berries on the finish. Perfect with roast lamb, this is a joy with game birds, hard cheeses, it’s got time on its side and will become a mellow, smoked berry beauty in another few years. 

Muga is another of my favourite bodegas, with a line-up of red wines that are fit to grace the finest tables. While the Muga Reserva (Majestic £19.99) is delicious, if you’re looking for extraordinary then the Muga Selección Especial Reserva (Waitrose £30) is for you. Texturally this has something in common with the Imperial in that it has a luscious, silky feel that comes from the long ageing in oak, but I always find there’s a little less freshness here and a slightly smokier tone to the abundant black fruits. Powerful and intense, expect wave after wave of plum, blackberry and blueberry fruit, exotic spices, bitter chocolate and a firm, red berry finish. I’ve always found this better with a few years in bottle but if you can’t wait, give it several hours open before serving.

I’ll finish with a confession of obsession. I’m completely obsessed with Contino’s Viña del Olivo Rioja (Waitrose £68) as is it is one of the greatest Riojas I have ever tasted. Taking its name from an 800-year-old olive tree that grows in the vineyard, it’s made from a blend of Tempranillo and Graciano which explains its elegance and refinement. Gorgeously deeply coloured – the 2020’s rim shows almost no gradation to pink – the bouquet makes it unhurried way from the glass wafting scents of cassis, dried herbs, olives, and dusty minerals. In the mouth, it’s at once reserved and generous. The taut, muscular body slowly reveals its ample charms with gentle swirling, presenting a Bordeaux-like mix of black fruits, chocolate and red berries only with herbs, a touch of clay-iron, and woodsmoke. This fascinating, beguiling wine draws you in and holds your attention to the last forlorn sip.