The best Chilean wines you can buy

Round & About Magazine’s resident wine columnist Giles Luckett discovers the joys of Chilean fine wines and recommends the best Chilean wines

Chilean wines come of age…

When most wine lovers think of Chile, they think of great wines that are exceptional value for money. I discovered this magical combination at the start of my wine career at Harrods. Unable to afford the Grand Cru Classe Bordeaux or Premier Cru white Burgundies of the tasting room, the Master of Wine buyer recommended Chilean wines as an affordable alternative. As ever, with the noticeable exception of a large glass of neat Absolut Pepper Vodka being a good cure for a hangover, Alun was right, and I’ve been drinking them ever since. 

What has been fascinating has been the increasing number of styles of wines that have emerged since then. In the early 1990s, Chilean wine was largely focused on producing Bordeaux blends alongside varietal wines such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and, if you knew where to look, Riesling. Over the years, this pencil-thin nation has unearthed locations for vineyards that will support the production of exquisite wines of world-class quality and world-beating value. How can it do this? Chile is blessed with a bounty of geographical and climatic advantages. From cool high-altitude sites to ocean-cooled coastal vineyards, soils based on volcanic, alluvial deposits, granite, limestone and slate, Chile has the ideal growing conditions for all the noble varieties.

Chile Wine: a marriage of nature and manmade in heaven

Nature can only take things so far, though. Even the most hardcore non-interventionist winemakers will admit that man needs to do something, even in an AI world, grapes won’t plant, harvest, and press themselves. So, to get some insight into what the role of the winemaker is in Chile and what the future of Chilean wine might look like, I caught up with two of Chile’s leading winemakers Tomas Munoz, winemaker for all Errazuriz, Emily Faulconer who has sole responsibility for Chile’s greatest red wines, Sena and the awesome Vinedo Chadwick, and Chile wine expert, Georgina Crawley.

Q. Chile in the UK is known for its great value premium wines rather than fine wines. You’ve pioneered fine wines, but why do you think Chile lags behind places like Australia or the US when it comes to the number of fine wine producers?

A. Tomas: “Chile has built a strong reputation for producing high-quality wines at competitive prices, helping many consumers discover what we can offer. In recent decades, we’ve also made great progress in fine wine production, exploring new terroirs, innovating in winemaking techniques and reinforcing our viticultural identity. While some markets have had more time to position their iconic wines, Chile is quickly establishing itself as a country capable of producing exceptional wines. The challenge now is to keep strengthening this perception and showcasing the full potential of our diversity and quality.”

Errazuriz ‘Aconcagua Costa’ Chardonnay (Noble Green £15.90)

For me, this is the best sub-£20 Chardonnay on the market. Medium-bodied and coolly refined, it offers tropical fruit undercut by a lovely lemon and lime freshness with dry, minerally tones to the finish. 

The oak is well-judged and adds richness without smothering the fruit. Enjoy this with baked white fish, poultry, or a mushroom pasta

Q. You’ve taken a multi-site approach to wine production, especially when it comes to fine wines. Given the size of Chile, do you think there are more sites out there that could yield world-beating wines? Is Errazuriz looking for new sites, or are you focusing on consolidating and developing further the sites you have?

A. Tomas: “We’ve been focused for over 150 years in exploring and understanding the Aconcagua Valley and found that high-quality wines come from small corners where the synergy of the components of the terroir creates a unique expression. Through the years, we ended up with a fragmented vineyard across the Aconcagua Valley. We believe that our valley has a unique versatility that allows us to grow many different varieties with great results, and we keep working every year to learn more from our place. Chile has tremendous versatility and incredible valleys, but our approach is set on becoming experts in our Aconcagua Valley.”

Errazuriz Aconcagua Costa Pinot Noir 2022 (Noble Green £18.50 or £16.50 on any mixed 6).

Medium red with a pronounced, floral, fruity and fungal nose. Soft and supple, the palate is suffused with cherries, strawberries, and plums, with earthy mushrooms, spearmint, and a dash of cleansing blood orange toward to finish.

Mellow, silky and elegant, this is one of the best value Pinot Noirs you can buy.

Winemaking vs climate change

Q. Climate change is a significant challenge for all winemakers. Given the classic/noble grapes you’re using, do you see a change in style for wines like Sena in the same way we’ve seen a change in the styles of Bordeaux, or does Chile’s climate/altitude afford you a degree of protection from this?

A. Tomas “Climate change is a major challenge for wine-making worldwide. In Aconcagua, we have observed some shifts, but Chile’s unique geography provides a certain degree of protection. The cooling influence of the Humboldt Current and the Andes Mountains helps moderate temperatures, allowing us to maintain balance and freshness in our wines. Also, the Andes provides fresh running water and underground reservoirs that help mitigate dry years. However, we continuously adapt through vineyard management and sustainable practices to ensure that our wines maintain their signature style while reflecting the best expression of each vintage.”

Q. How would you describe your winemaking approach? In the last few years, the winemakers I’ve spoken to seem focused on maximum intervention in the vineyard while pulling back in the winery. Is that the case for you?

A. Emily: “I’ve noticed a trend toward ‘low intervention wines’, but I believe that every choice we make in both the vineyard and the winery constitutes an intervention in itself. Whether we’re tending to the vines or crafting the wine, we are always making decisions that impact the final product, and we should take pride in that.

“For me, the magic truly happens in the vineyard. Therefore, our management practices must align with the goal of allowing the terroir to express itself at its best. This commitment drives us to adopt practices that enhance the balance and ageability of our vineyard. By improving the ecosystem and fine-tuning the vineyard management, we create an environment where the grapes can flourish, ultimately allowing them to genuinely reflect their origins. While the winemaking process is crucial for optimising results, it’s the work we do in the vineyard that lays the foundation for exceptional wines. So, while I appreciate the concept of minimal intervention, I believe that skilled winemaking, combined with a strong focus on sustainable vineyard practices, is essential to bringing out the very best in our wines.”

Q. Just how far can Chilean fine wines go? Chadwick has raised the quality bar significantly. Can you envisage another Errazuriz wine – perhaps a Chardonnay or a Pinot – seeing off the great wines of Burgundy as Chadwick did Bordeaux in Berlin?

A. Emily: “The core motto of our company, driven by the very clear vision of Eduardo Chadwick, is to strive for excellence. Along with Viñedo Chadwick, our high-end wines originate from the Aconcagua Valley, where the intention of each wine is to showcase the best potential of its specific site while serving as an authentic interpretation of that terroir.”

“Wines like Seña, Don Maximiano, KAI, La Cumbre, and Las Pizarras all aim to be outstanding expressions that elevate the quality bar. Whether they do or not is really not for me to say, but I do believe they are at a great level. This is a dynamic process, and I’m looking forward to what’s next as we keep pushing ourselves to do even better. I truly believe that Chilean fine wines have come a long way, and the quality is already proven, with both critics and consumers validating this. I’m excited to see this belief spread more broadly.”

Las Pizarras Chardonnay 2022 (Dulwich Vintners £60)

This is the best Chilean Chardonnay I’ve ever tasted. Full of pure green apple, peach and melon fruit offset by nutty hawthorn, and backed by an energised, zingy lemon and lime freshness. ‘Crystaline’ is a word that repeatedly comes to mind, as there’s a wonderful precision to the structure of this wine.

If you can wait till June, you can get the 2023 Las Pizarras Chardonnay for £45 (Amps Wine Merchants), which, given the exceptional quality of the vintage, is not to be missed and will age magnificently.

Chilean wines in the UK wine market

Q. How has the wine market reacted to your move into fine wines? As I say, Chile is still seen as a great source of everyday/premium wine in the UK, so how have buyers reacted to wines like Sena and Chadwick?

A. Georgina: “We are entering a ‘new era’ for Chile, it is the last region globally to offer great drinking ‘fine wines’ and its unique ‘terroirs’ to the market. The quality is higher than ever, and there has never been a better time to discover the exceptional value for money these wines hold. The Berlin Tasting in 2004 paved the way for this, with Sena and Vinedo Chadwick’s success. 40 European wine writers tasted 16 wines blind from the 2000 and 2001 vintages, including Bordeaux legends Lafite Rothschild, Chateau Margaux, Chateau Latour, alongside super Tuscans such as Solaia, against the now iconic Chilean wines, Sena and Vinedo Chadwick.

“That Sena and Vinedo Chadwick beat these classic wines shocked the world. Eduardo (Chadwick) has continued this tasting over the past 10 years, and it’s a story that needs to be continuously told, engaging drinkers and collectors alike to this achievement. Chile is still a small part of many fine wine collectors’ cellars, but as buying habits evolve, so does the desire for variety and discovery of these new regions’ gems.”

“It’s incredible to think that both Sena and Vinedo Chadwick have been awarded 100 points by the likes of The Wine Advocate and have beaten some of the most famous and established wines in the world for quality and taste. Many customers have purchased these wines with most popping them into a cellar to mature, but in truth, we feel that people need to start opening and drinking wines, discovering the incredible quality they hold and tasting the unique terroirs these wines come from.

“The story behind each bottle and estate is captivating, and we know wine lovers will be blown away by what they find in the glass…. the kaleidoscopic flavours, incredible finesse, structural poise and utterly delicious aromatically layered fruit. Both wines echo their European roots via their familiar grape varieties, yet these exquisite wines showcase the special soils, climate and sustainable winemaking practices they are born out of with a kiss of Chilean flair. There is just so much to fall in love with.

Seña 2016 (VINUM £110)

Chile’s first fine wine is magnificent. Revealing Seña’s signature freshness and fruity complexity, it offers juicy blackcurrants, blueberries, black cherries, and tangy redcurrants with a fine, well-ordered structure. The first tertiary notes of age – undergrowth, smoke, and rose hips – have added extra complexity, and it finishes with tobacco, crunchy minerals, and spicy balsamic. 

Drink now with fine red meats, full-flavoured mushroom dishes or smoked ham, or squirrel it away for another decade or more. I’ve tasted half a dozen vintages of Señathis year, and it’s a world-class wine.

What makes Chilean wine so good?

Q. What makes Chile such a great place to produce incredible wines? Is it the sheer breadth of sites/altitudes, the mix of soils, the climate or is there something unique about certain terroirs?

A. Emily: “Yes, what truly makes Chile such a great place for producing incredible wines is the uniqueness of certain terroirs. A prime example is Puente Alto, where Cabernet Sauvignon shines as the star variety. Over time, growers have become increasingly adept at understanding the specific characteristics of regions like Puente Alto, linking grape varieties with their ideal sites. This expertise allows us to cultivate the best expressions of each variety, resulting in wines that authentically reflect the distinctive terroirs of Chile.”

Q. Carmenere has had a chequered past, and only now with wines like KAI does it seem to be getting the fine wine recognition it deserves. Are there other varieties that you think have a fine wine future in Chile?

A. Emily: “Carmenere has indeed had a tumultuous journey, gaining recognition in recent years with exceptional wines like KAI*. I would say that Chardonnay has emerged as a beautiful revelation over the last decade in Chile. A key factor in this evolution has been not only the shift in style – from overripe, heavy, and buttery Chardonnays to fresher, more elegant, vibrant, and tense wines – but also the search for the right sites to achieve this ideal.”

“Regions like Limarí, Aconcagua Costa, and Malleco have proven particularly well-suited for Chardonnay, allowing winemakers to create wines that balance vibrant acidity with beautiful texture. I would also highlight Pinot Noir, a more challenging grape that requires meticulous attention to detail. While the number of exceptional Pinot Noirs in Chile is still growing, we are rapidly achieving outstanding results. The right terroirs and winemaking practices are enabling us to produce beautiful Pinot Noirs.”

*KAI 2019 (London End Wines, £55)

This is, by some margin, the finest Carmenere I’ve ever tried. Inky blue-black, it has a knockout combination of concentration and finesse. Loaded with black and blue berry fruits, there’s no sign of the metallic tone I often find with Carmenere.

With its firm backbone, crisp acidity and wonderfully deep blueberry and blackcurrant fruit, while this is drinking well now, you get the feeling that there’s even more to come.

How sustainable is your process?

Q. Sustainability is important to you, and I know you use organic and biodynamic methods, but do these improve the wines?

A. Emily: “Sustainability is indeed a fundamental aspect of our philosophy, and we firmly believe that our biodynamic methods significantly enhance the quality of our wines. By focusing on natural practices, we foster healthier soils and ecosystems, which lead to stronger and more balanced vines.

“Our approach emphasises a different rhythm in our work – one that is more paced and deeply connected to observation. This slower pace allows us to fine-tune our interpretation of the vineyard, leading to a better understanding of its needs. By being in tune with the vineyard, we can be more precise in our decision-making, ensuring that we capture the essence of the site and nail the style of wine we aim to produce.

“These methods not only reduce the reliance on synthetic chemicals but also promote biodiversity, allowing the vines to express their terroir more fully. As a result, our wines often exhibit more complexity and depth of flavour, capturing the unique characteristics of the site.

“Ultimately, our commitment to sustainability results in more resilient vines, enabling them to grow old and, in turn, produce wines of exceptional quality. The age of these vines contributes significantly to the complexity and balance of the wines we create, allowing them to evolve gracefully over time.”

Rocas de Seña 2022 (Songbird Wines £60.50)

Deeply coloured, the bouquet is an exotic mix of black fruits, herbs, mint and spices. In the mouth, it’s complex and compelling with waves of blueberry, spiced plums, cherries, chocolate, earth and pepper surging forth before the drying tannins and crisp acidity draw things together. Each of the grapes in the blend – Malbec, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Mourvèdre and Grenache – makes their presence felt while coming together to form a harmonious whole. Hard to resist now, in another 3-5 years it will be a showstopper.

Thank you, Tomas, Emily and Georgina, for those valuable insights. Keep up the great work, and if you ever need an extra pair of hands at the revisiting of the Berlin tasting, I’m available!

I hope you will try some of these extraordinary wines. I sense prices will rise as more people discover their exceptional quality. But for now, they are the best-value fine wines on Earth.

(All prices are correct at the time of publishing.)

Find more of Giles’ wine articles

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