Roast with the most at Donnington

Round & About

The restaurant at Donnington & Co (formerly Donnington Valley) has been lavished in some hearty doses of TLC… perfect timing to pop by and try an epic roast 

Here we are, at the tail end of summer now, and it’s a wistful time, don’t you think? The evenings don’t stretch so far, and the air feels wetter, heavier… 

The perfect antidote? Embracing the cosiness of the season with a cracking roast, cooked by someone else. And I’m pleased to report that the newly revamped restaurant is just as cocooning and comforting as the treatments in the adjoining spa. Donnington Co, which is privately owned by Sir Peter Michael & family, is also well-loved for its 18-hole golf course.  

Wine fans will find an unbeatable list, including an epic champers selection (there’s still a clever nod to the cork theme in the new décor). And non-drinkers are also in great hands: our virgin pina colada and angelic mojitos were just as fun and refreshing as a boozy beach binge. The restaurant itself is equal parts elegant and relaxed: the darker hues ushered in by the revamp work a charm – I was coveting the wishbone chairs and floriferous wallpaper. What’s more, the soft lighting and incredibly friendly, hospitable staff make you feel like lingering here all afternoon into the evening.  

What about the food? Seasonal ingredients are given the right royal treatment. You’re in great hands. Donnington Co’s Sunday lunch is a three-course affair that doesn’t just embrace the season, it gives it a hug and a glass of red. Our starters, cauliflower soup and scallops with crispy bacon and pea puree perfectly straddled that weird summer/autumn threshold: so fresh and full of hearty flavour. 

Now, on the main event: the roast beef. This wasn’t just beef, it was a masterclass in how to coax the very best from a beast. Perfectly pink in the middle, with a caramelised edge that made each bite feel like autumn had put on a velvet smoking jacket. The vegetables were far from an afterthought. Imagine golden roasties and parsnips that yield with a satisfying crunch, rainbow carrots with just the right amount of bite, and Yorkshire puddings so puffed up and proud that their arrival made us gasp. 

But the real seduction came from the gravy, which, let’s be honest, is a right pig to make (well) yourself. Silky doesn’t even begin to cover it. This was the kind of gravy that you briefly consider drinking straight. Dark, glossy, and layered with flavour, it tied the whole plate together. And I’m not even a massive roast fan. 

The rest of the menu shows similar flair, including puddings to warm the cockles, from crumble to Biscoff and miso caramel cheesecake. At £26 for two courses or £31.50 for three (you can also get bottomless options) it would be rude not to. Or better still, book an autumn staycation and roll into bed for a nap!