South African wine treasures to uncork

Round & About

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Food & Recipes

Our wine columnist Giles Luckett explores the best wines from South Africa worth trying

Hello. This article was inspired by a recent South African wine tasting, one that turned out to be a simultaneous trip down memory lane and a voyage of discovery (if that doesn’t win Mixed Metaphor of the Year, nothing will!).

This vast county has 30 diverse wine districts and 60 Wine of Origin (WO) designations, boasts a mix of microclimates and soils to enable it to grow pretty much every grape variety brilliantly. They’ve also been making wine since the 1650s, so they have had plenty of time to perfect their art. 

I became a fan of South African wines in my student days, as they offered affordability and drinkability in equal measure. Three decades in the wine trade has burnished my love of the country’s wines and allowed me to try everything from mighty Cabernet Sauvignons that aren’t so much dry as desiccated to that well-known heart condition treatment (well, well-known to Jane Austen) the luscious Klein Constantia. Such long experience meant I attended the tasting expecting great wines but no surprises. What I encountered came as something of a shock… 

Alongside the usual cavalcade of world-class Cabernet Sauvignons (the Vergelegen Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch 2017 (Wine Society £16) was in marvellous form, so full, so refined, and typical of this wonderful vintage), cool climate Chardonnays (Journeys End Winemakers Chardonnay) (Laithwaites £14.99), and native grape classics such as the Beaumont Family Pinotage, Bot River, Walker Bay 2018 Pinotage (the Wine Society £18) was a line-up of newbies the like of which I didn’t know existed. Luscious, fruit-bomb Viogniers like the Mount Rozier Estate Queen Bee Viognier 2022 (Laithwaites £12.99), a previously unseen Tempranillo, from Mellasat Vineyards (Brompton Wines £20.9%) which took this Riojan classic and gave it even more oomph and even an orange wine. Well, no one’s perfect. 

(Another) South African Wine Revolution

I’d read that South African wine had undergone one of its periodic reinventions in the past few years, but I didn’t appreciate how significant this one was. On the evidence of this extensive tasting, this is as significant a change as they moved away from making South Africian ‘port’ and ‘sherry’ and moved into table wines.

What is the revolution this time? Well, in essence, it’s about working with nature. It’s about aligning the right grapes, exploration of sites, and using the right grapes and the right production methods to give wines that are authentic, and which convey a ‘taste of place.’ The rationale behind this move varies hugely, but what is universal is the exceptional quality of the wines being produced, as the following highlights show.

Boschendale Chenin (Tesco £9) is about as traditional as South African wine gets. Chenin, or Steen as it’s known here, is planted all over the country as it used to be used for fortified wines. These days it’s mainly used to produce crisp, apple, and melon flavoured wines, the best of which, such as Boschendale’s, have a shot of citrus, honey, and minerals giving them complexity. 

South African Sauvignon Blanc isn’t a wine I’m that familiar with. Like many of my generation, I was introduced to Sauvignon by the thrillingly fruit-driven gooseberry and green pepper wines of New Zealand in the late 1980s. After a year or so of drinking this style, the thrill wore off, and I’ve avoided New World Sauvignon ever since. It seems I’ve been missing out, however, as when I tasted the Journey’s End Identity Sauvignon (£9 Sainsbury’s), I found a wine of subtlety and class. The notes of gooseberries, rhubarb, and peppers are still there, but the volume’s been turned down, and peachy, yellow plum notes have fleshed it out, making for a jolly, food-friendly glassful. 

Kleine Zalze is another South African winery whose wines I’ve always enjoyed. Hailing from the prestigious Stellenbosch region, their Vineyard Selection Chenin (Vinum £13.10) is a serious, grown-up wine. Oak-aged, there’s a creaminess to this wine that compliments the rich peach, guava, and apricot tones before a fresh, firm acidity pulls everything together. This would be brilliant with lemon roast chicken or mushroom risotto. 

Spier is one of South Africa’s oldest wineries, and yet they produce one of its newest and rarest wines. Albarino is a grape most commonly associated with Spain, where it produces some of the country’s greatest whites. Ranging in style from the dry and crisp to the very dry and very crisp, it’s a wine I’ve always liked. The Spier Albarino (Majestic £9.99) has all the citrus you’d expect, but with its full, glycerine-rich body, it has softer, fatter notes of baked apple and pear that make it eminently drinkable. 

I’ll leave the whites with Jordan Wines’ The Real McCoy Riesling 2022. Like Pinot Noir, Riesling seems to be a grape that every nation wants to do well. The quality of the grape is such that everyone wants to create ones that can rival the French and German versions. Jordan has done pretty good job, if you ask me. While this is very much a South African wine, the lovely floral, apple and honey nose, taut, crisp, green and white berry saturated palate and cleansing, mineral-laden acidity make for a compelling Riesling. I plan to try this with a stir fry, but as a solo sipper, it’s a pearl. 

Pinotage is South Africa’s signature grape. Created in 1925 by crossing the noble Pinot Noir and commoner Cinsault (at the time, the Pinot wasn’t so much cross as flaming furious), the idea was to give a noble vine with good heat resistance. It’s a vine capable of great things in the right hands (and utterly forgettable dross in the wrong hands), as the Spier Pinotage shows. Mid-red, the nose is an inviting mix of crushed red berries, warm spices, cherries, and earth. These impressions flow onto the palate where the amble, yet rounded, tannins give it structure, and a hint of mint adds freshness. A great BBQ wine, should the sun ever shine. 

Blends have always worked well in South Africa. Some of my earliest memories of South African wine are of tasting the likes of Simonsig and Meerlust’s mighty Rubicon. Having such a wealth of grapes to call upon, it’s easy to see why they are popular. One I caught up with at the tasting was Kanonkop’s Kadette (Tesco £12), the entry-level wine from the superb Kanonkop estate. Blending Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, this is an inky dark, brooding, spicy, and super-ripe wine that doesn’t so much caress your palate as give it a cuddle and offer it a blanket. If you like big, rich, spicy, and intense wines, this is a great choice. 

Syrah, one of the great grapes of the Rhone Valley, is another variety you rarely see adorning South African wine labels. So when I saw the Griffin Syrah (£20 Ocado), I was intrigued. I tasted the 2016, and the bottle aging had clearly helped it. Young Syrah can be a handful, closed, tannic, brooding, and acidic. This was deep, mellow, and open. It offered a huge weight of plum, black cherry, and bramble fruit alongside signature notes of herbs, white pepper, and raspberries. Drinking well now, it has time on its side and would be fantastic with roasted red meats or hard cheeses. 

I couldn’t write a piece on South African wine and not mention a Cabernet Sauvignon. This noblest of vines seems to like South Africa and consistently produces world-class wines that are as good as they are affordable. I reviewed the Major Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 by Ernie Els Wines last year, and it was outstanding. This time out, I looked at the 2017, which, if anything, was even better. Very dark with only a glimmer of crimson at the rim, the nose offered an intensely concentrated mix of cassis, green peppers, mint, cherries, and smoke. In the mouth, it was powerful yet elegant. Fresh blackcurrants take centre stage, but there’s excellent support from black cherries, chocolate, spicy vanilla, and a shot of cranberry acidity. A delicious wine, I’d give it plenty of time open before drinking. 

I’ll finish this piece as I finished the tasting with a fizz. I’ve tasted the Graham Beck Pinot Noir Rosé (Majestic £16.99) around a dozen times in the past year, and my notes have been consistent in their praise. While I love all of Beck’s sparkling wines, the Pinot Noir Rosé is on a different level. Sweetly toned strawberries and raspberries mingle with softer flavours of brioche, black fig, creamy yeast, and a hint of saline. This will undoubtedly be our summer fizz, and with its weight and freshness, it will partner all kinds of food admirably well. 

I hope this whistle-stop tour will prompt you to explore South Africa’s great wine treasury. Next time out, I’m heading back down under for some splendid summer sippers.

More soon…!

Giles

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Giles Luckett’s best wines of Rioja

Round & About

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Food & Recipes

Learn more about the wines of Rioja as Round and About’s wine columnist shares his thoughts on the best red and white Riojas on the UK market

Hello. A game I like to play sometimes is wine keywords – I’m too old for an Xbox, and I don’t drink enough port to be good at bridge. The aim of the game is to encapsulate a wine region’s history in as few words as possible and have people guess where you’re talking about. Trust me, this goes down a storm with men of a certain age with model railways and a subscription to Decanter!

So, Bordeaux could be, ‘British-owned. British invented. British drunk while Champagne could be ‘Monasteries. War. Billionaire brands.’ Which region, though, would be, ‘Bugs. Trains. A fascist’.

It is none other than the beloved region of Rioja, which is the subject of my latest ode to wine.

The Wines Of Rioja: A Very, Very Brief History

Wines have been produced in Rioja in northwest Spain for donkey’s years. The Romans introduced viniculture here, and the wines enjoyed an excellent local reputation. The wines came to international prominence in the 1850s when phylloxera – a root-chewing bug – devastated much of France’s vineyards, most notably in nearby Bordeaux. Bordeaux winemakers in need of work decamped to Rioja, bringing expertise in the use of oak, amongst other things, and helped take the wines to a whole new level.

Around this time, the railway finally reached the wine towns of Haro and Logrono. This meant that Rioja could be transported easily to the rest of Spain and the ports, which have them access to international markets.

Owing to the world wars and the Spanish Civil War, the region fell on hard times in the early part of the 20th century, and it was only with the rise to power of Franco that its fortunes were restored. Franco was mad about wine and wanted to see Rioja take its rightful place on the world stage. In one of his (extremely rare) good deads, he helped ensure that the wines were produced to high standards and became sought after again.

Rioja Today: New Classic Wines

Today, Rioja is rightly regarded as one of the great wine regions of the world. Its capacity for value is unrivalled, and there’s a surprising level of diversity in the nature and styles of wine, between the traditional and the modernist. In this article, I will offer you the benefit of my 30-odd-year obsession with this beautiful, complex, generous wine region, which I hope will whet your appetite for these extraordinary wines.

Let’s begin with the wine that started my love affair with Rioja, the Cune Crianza (Sainsbury’s £9). I first encountered this as Harrods’ Rioja when a Spanish colleague Carlos recommended it as a star staff buy. He wasn’t wrong. To this day, I can remember it. As someone who’d been brought up on Bordeaux and wines from the Midi and the Rhone, this was a revelation. A wine packed with exuberant red and blackberry fruit, spices, citrus peel, and creamy vanilla, it was as if I’d been drinking black and white wines, and this was my introduction to colour. I had the 2018 last night and found it just as diverting as I did all those years ago.

Next are two whites. White Rioja was, for the longest time, something that was best avoided. The Riojans’ idea that wood was good, so more wood is better, worked well (to an extent) with the reds, but for whites, it was often folly. A familiar tasting note for white Rioja in the 1990s was, ‘Smells of old chip fat, colour of old chip fat, tastes of… old chip fat.’ Happily, those days are gone, as these two contrasting corkers show.

The Muga Blanco (Majestic £12.99) is a modernist interpretation and is bottled summer. A blend of mainly Viura and Malvasia, the nose is bright, full of apple blossom, pears, and a hint of honey. In the mouth, it’s clean and delicate, yet the persistent fruit notes of pears, honeydew melon, apricots, and tangy gooseberries give it oomph.

By contrast, the Cune Barrel Fermented Rioja Blanco (Waitrose £10) is an altogether more rounded, richer, mellow, traditional iteration. This is one of my favourite white wines, and I must have had close to 30 different vintages. The consistency is remarkable, and it never fails to please. The latest vintage has the same ripe, soft mouthfeel and generosity of fruit I’ve come to expect, but this time out, there’s a nutty edge to buttery peach, apricot, and green apple fruit. A great wine for summer sipping.

I mentioned my adoration for the wines of Contino in my last column, and I make no apology for mentioning one again this time. This time, it’s the Contino Reserva 2017. You can often tell a lot about the quality of wine and the vintage by the wine’s classification. In Germany, higher levels of sugar are revered and in rare vintages, you get the mighty trockenberenausle, which has so much sugar in grapes that it can take months to ferment and end up with 6 or 7 degrees of alcohol. In Champagne, it’s if a wine is vintage or not, and in Rioja it’s about the level of oak ageing the wine can sustain. Categories such as Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva all have pre-release ageing requirements in barrel and bottle, and as a crude rule of thumb, the more it can take, the better the wine is and the higher its designation.

The Contino Reserva 2017 (Noble Green £22) is an outstanding glass of wine. 2017 was a ‘challenging’ year – in the same way that nailing water to a wall with a hammer made of ice is challenging – yet by virtue of having a sublime vineyard and uncompromising winemakers with exceptional skill, they have turned out a sumptuous wine.

The nose in an inviting blend of smoked black fruit, tapenade, and cranberries. The voluptuous palate is medium-bodied, full of brambles, strawberries, hints of chocolate and raspberries, and a good helping mixed spice. As hard and angular as a bubble bath in a paddling pool, this won’t make seriously old bones, but it’s seriously good now.

Marqués de Cáceres is one of those Rioja brands – like Campo Viejo – that seemed to lose their way some years ago. For the longest time, their red, white, and rosé wines were a supermarket staple, and while they were OK for the money, that’s all they were. Today, they are back in a big way. Flagship wines like Gaudium are well worth their £40+ price tag. For rather more modest money, the Marqués de Cáceres Reserva (Majestic £12.99) is deep joy. This is the old-school Rioja. High extract with lots of dried blackcurrants, plums, warm spices, vanilla, and orange peel; this is perfect for red meats and hard Spanish cheeses.

Generally speaking I don’t tend to go for Gran Reserva wines. Rioja’s – unfair – reputation as wood aged in wine stems from this style. Eager to use the impressive designation, too many industrial producers have subjected wines that didn’t have the fruit of the extract to carry such a weight of oak, and the results weren’t great.

When done well, however, Gran Reserva Rioja can be glorious. Take the Beronia Gran Reserva 2015 (Majestic £21). Hailing from a great vintage, even after 28 months in cask, it remains deeply coloured, with a bramble, red cherry, and plum scented nose. In the mouth the fruity continues to take centre stage, with layer-upon-layer of black and red berries rounded off by creamy oak. Great now, this has a long future.

Roda may not be a winery you’re familiar with, but in the course of 30-odd year life, it’s taken Rioja by storm. Roda is the picture of modernity in a traditional region. They restrict the amount of oak, favour French (subtler, more expensive) over American, use cooler fermentation temperatures, and aim to bring a subtle expression of Rioja to life. The resulting wines are fascinating, combining traditional flavours with an arresting delicacy of approach. The Roda 1 2016 (Master of Malt £29.95) offers a great introduction to these beguiling wines.

Still with me? Good, only two to go, and what a pair…

Vina Real is another traditional wine, but there’s a delicacy and a flair to their wines that I’ve always loved. My latest encounter with this noble wine was the Vina Real 2016 Reserva (Tanners £21.50). This is a red berry and spices wine. The colour is paler than some thanks to four years in barrel, and buttery oak runs through it like Brighton through a stick of Brighton rock. It doesn’t overwhelm, however. Instead, it adds cream tones to the wide range of juicy berries, and gives a wine that was made for food.

And finally, a budget-busting classic, the Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva 2010 (Petersham Cellars £275). Now, £275 is an awful lot of money for a bottle of wine, but this is a rare beast. Only mad in exceptional years and aged for five years in oak and a further five in bottle – sometimes even longer – this a wonderful curio. Showing none of its age, it’s bright red and youthfully intense. Medium-bodied, mouth-filling, creamy and exotic, there’s everything from blackcurrants and cherries to Asian spices, coffees, dark marmalade, and charcoal. It’s a great Rioja experience, at a price.

Well, that’s it for now. All this talk of Rioja has given me a thirst the size of CVNE’s barrel hall.

More soon!

Giles

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Green goodness in watercress season

Round & About

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Watercress is abundant at this time of year and it’s packed full of goodness with many health benefits

Grilled Nectarine & Feta Salad (pictured above)

Classic cassoulet

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April events at Blue Collar Corner

Karen Neville

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Food & Recipes

Make a date for British Street Food Awards, Mark Bowen of Reading FC & a Sunday acoustic session

Blue Collar Corner, Reading’s street food and drinks arena in Hosier Street, is uncovering it’s roof terrace and preparing for summer with a packed line-up of events and DJs this month.

Events include two days of hosting the South Eastern heats of the British Street Food Awards, a Supporter Trust at Reading (STAR) evening with Mark Bowen and the Reading FC off field team plus live music.

“We can’t wait to bring British Street Food Awards to Blue Collar Corner on Saturday 18th and Sunday 19th April” Glen Dinning of Blue Collar says, “We last hosted the Awards at Market Place in November 2020 where the quality and variety of food on offer was incredible. It’s so exciting to see future food trends – this is a chance to experience the very best of the British street food scene, vote for your favourites and support independent businesses.

“Variety of food is an ongoing theme here at Blue Collar Corner now with our four kitchens on short term rotations between two to four weeks each keeping the food option fresh and exciting.

“Our evenings with Brian McDermott in conversation last year were very special events. Glen continues “so we’re really happy to be welcoming more Reading FC related events on Wednesday 26th April when the Supporters Trust of Reading host an evening with Mark Bowen and the off field team.”

“We’ve uncovered our roof terrace and are getting the site summer ready” Glen continued, “Our live acoustic Sunday sessions have been a big hit recently. Our next of these will be the 19 Something Festival Launch on Sunday 23rd April, raising money for Age UK with stripped down live sets from a selection of local acts.”

This month you can enjoy:

Sat 18th Apr – British Street Food Awards + DJ Rob Wire + DJ Chris Gale 
Sun 19th Apr – British Street Food Awards
Thu 20th Apr – Feel Good Thursdays w/ DJ Rich Sloman
Fri 21st Apr – DJs Elle Cee & Kingpinn
Sat 22nd Apr – Rum & Donuts DJs + DJ Arthur
Sun 23th Apr – 19 Something Festival launch in aid of Age UK
Wed 26th Apr – Supporters Trust at Reading w/ Mark Bowen & off field team
Thu 27th Apr – Feel Good Thursdays w/ DJ Slippery People
Fri 28th Apr – DJ Acronym
Sat 29th Apr – DJ Mark Fitzpatrick + DJ Gilbert
Sun 30th Apr – Rum & Donuts DJs + DJs Elle Cee & Kingpinn 

For full info on Blue Collar’s April DJ sets and events (including their Cheese Feast event in Forbury on 28th-30th April), see blue.collar | Facebook | Linktree or follow their socials at @bluecollarfood.

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Traeger Fest at Millets Farm

Karen Neville

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Food & Recipes

Join in a free weekend of delicious food and fun in Abingdon

Tips and hacks
Recipe – Roasted Sheet Pan Salmon with Spring Veg and Pesto

With spring around the corner and gardens being spruced up for the warmer weather to come, Traeger – makers of world-leading premium wood pellet BBQ’s – are holding a Trager Fest Weekend, at Webbs of Millets Farm, Kingston Rd, Frilford, Abingdon OX13 5HB on 15th and 16th April.

There’s something for all foodie tastes at Traeger Fest. On the Saturday, Traeger will be showcasing Classic American themed food, including dishes such as delicious Smashed Burgers, Chicken Wings and Cookies.

Sunday’s theme will be traditional English Roast Dinner, including a range of tasty classics such Roast Pork with Roast Potatoes and Yorkshire Puddings – all cooked on Traeger grills.

BBQ lovers can pop along at any time, to experience music, delicious food, and Traeger’s famous wood pellet grills. A Traeger chef will be on hand all weekend to showcase the grills, share top grilling tips, and hand out delicious samples to try.

Everyone is welcome to come along and soak up the Traeger atmosphere and you might even pick up some lovely new plants for your garden whilst you are there!

Traeger tips, hacks and recipes – 2023

What’s your top trick for cleaning your grill?

• Clean little and often rather than letting it build up. Using a Traeger cleaning spray helps.
• Wipe it down while it’s still hot! It’s much easier to do than when it’s cold. If you don’t have a wooden Traeger scraper, a ball of tinfoil works really well. Do this either at the end of your cook or once you’ve preheated the BBQ.
• For the grill grate itself, grill brush to scrape away large pieces and then a half onion on a hot grill to sterilise and flavour. The acids in the onion will help lift the grease.

What’s your top BBQ cooking hack?

• Always give yourself more time than you think you’ll need! Worst case scenario, the food is done a little early. Wrap it up, put your oven on the lowest setting (usually around 60c) and keep it warm.
• No matter what happens with a cook, even if it goes wrong, it can more than likely be recused and still turned into something amazing.
• Re-season your food with the rub you have used to start with, it adds a big depth of flavour.
• To BBQ the juiciest chicken wings with the crispiest skin – cook them at two different temperatures. Start by smoking them low and slow to lock in the flavour, then half way through – turn up the temperature to crisp up the skin.
• Wrap an assembled burger in foil and put it back on the grill. Takes it to the next juiciest level!

What trends do you think will be big this year in BBQ?

• Cheaper/ different cuts of meat will feature heavily as people want better value for money with the cost of living crisis and want as much bang for their buck.
• Mexican food such as tacos and easy one pot recipes such as  Goulash or stews.
• Smoking food and cooking low and slow are going to be big trends this year. This method of cooking is definitely becoming more popular in the UK with dishes such as smoked pulled pork, ribs and wings.
• We see more and more foods getting ‘smashed’. It started with the avocado, then we had burgers last season… Now we can see smashed potatoes next
• We should start to see more plant based and gluten free products as health comes to the top agenda.
• Batch cooking will return and with the mindset of healthy meal planning and reducing food waste.

What’s your go-to veggie dish to cook on a BBQ?

• Moroccan vegetable tagine or buffalo spiced cauliflower steaks.
• Corn on the cob with any Italian hard cheese and chilli melted on top.
• Grill Hispi cabbage, then while still hot, drizzle a jalapeno or chipotle honey sauce, making sure it gets between the layers. Finish with crumbled feta and crispy onions.
• Smoked cream cheese is a great little snack when you have people round. Sprinkle some rub onto the cheese and then drizzle on some hot honey once it’s done. Break out the ritz crackers and boom, your finest smokey, cheesy sharing dish.
• A smoked, confit vegetable tart.
• Vegetable pockets. Mix together Carrots, peas, cauliflower and broccoli mix together in a white or cheesy sauce and wrap it all up in puff pastry.

What’s your go-to veggie or vegan dish to cook on a BBQ?

• Braised carrots in a stock that’s flavoured with everything you will find in pickle vinegar, then smoke then and serve them as ‘not dogs’.
• A tray bake is always a good one to do. Throw in some new potatoes with a load of veggies. Sprinkle some Traeger Veggie rub over the top and bake in the Traeger until everything’s lovely and soft.
• Some smoked confit tomatoes which make an incredible bruschetta or a fantastic brown sugar and cinnamon slow smoked butternut squash.

Why are pellets the best way to grill?

• Wood pellets are clean, efficient, cost effective, family friendly and they produce the most incredible clean smokey flavour.
• Pellets are the best way to grill as they enhance the flavour of whatever you are cooking, depending on which wood flavour you use. You get such a big punch of flavour even from a small number of pellets.
• Wood pellets give you all the smoke flavour you need, with none of the hassle. You don’t have to worry about fire management like other methods of grilling, which means you can put 100% of your focus on the food and have 1 less thing to stress about.

How to cook the perfect steak?

• Use the reverse sear method. Season your steak with Traeger coffee rub, set your Traeger to 110c and insert the built in probe or Meater probe. If you like a medium rare steak, once the internal temperature hits 46c, remove the steak from the grill.  Put the Traeger cast iron on the grate to heat up first, then add the steak and turn up the temperature as high as it goes. Sear each side for just a couple of minutes until you’ve hit 56c internal.
• Always use a good rub that’s made for the type of meat you are cooking. With Steak – use a beef rub.
• Use a steak that is at least a 1-inch thick and has the same thickness throughout, to ensure a uniform cook throughout the steak: Reverse Seared Ribeye Steaks Recipe – Traeger Grills
• Most importantly, let the meat rest, so any juices have come out before serving.

Ingredients

• 1 Thick cut steak (no less than 1″) of your choice
• Traeger Blackened Saskatchewan Rub
• Steak needs to acclimatise to room temperature, so allow it to rest out of the fridge for around 30 minutes. If you hit your steak with heat straight from the fridge, it will contract and seize up and you will have a tough piece of meat.

• Pat your steak dry with some kitchen roll and season liberally with traeger blackened Saskatchewan and leave it on the side for 30 minutes.
• Set your traeger for 100 degrees c using Traeger Signature pellets where possible.
• Place your meat probe into the thickest part of your steak, making sure you avoid any fat as this will increase your temperatures.
• Grill on both sides as you prefer.

How important is it marinade meat or fish before you BBQ?

• It’s important for a few reasons. A marinade will add flavour, help tenderise the meat and lock in important juices. Try adding marinade or re-season while the meat or fish is resting to add even more flavour.
• Don’t overpower with too much rub or marinade, so that the star of the show doesn’t lose its identity.

What would be the perfect dish to create on your grill to celebrate the King’s Coronation?

• Coronation roasted rack of lamb with an asian style marinade served with roasted potatoes and green salad.
• Probably a suckling pig, with smoked apple sauce, red cabbage, beer gravy, loads of roasted veg and roasted potatoes!
• A coronation Chicken burger! A classic BBQ food, with a coronation twist. Who doesn’t love a good burger?
• King Charles is a very keen farmer so perhaps a classic roast beef with all the trimmings, championing the UK produce would be the best BBQ meal, fit for a king!

Roasted Sheet Pan Salmon with Spring Veg and Pesto

Prep time: 10 mins | Cook time: 12 mins | Serves: 4

The beauty of this recipe is that it all cooks together in 10-12 minutes! Salmon is such a crowd-pleaser on the grill and is a perfect match for these spring vegetables with pesto. But how often do we focus on crispy salmon skin? This recipe cooks the salmon with the skin side up for a beautiful presentation for those who love the skin. And if you don’t care for it? No worries! Cook it skin-side down and it will still be beautiful.

Ingredients

• 4 Salmon pieces (100g), skin on, pin bones removed
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• Rock salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 16 fresh asparagus spears, sliced into 2.5cm pieces
• 180g cherry tomatoes, rinsed and halved
• 300g sugar snap peas
• 1 1/2 lemons halved
• 85g fresh pesto
• 2/3 lemon, zested
• Fresh basil leaves for garnish

Steps

1. When ready to cook, set the temperature to high and preheat, lid closed for 15 minutes.

2. Rinse the salmon and pat dry with paper towel. Brush all sides of the salmon with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, and sprinkle generously with salt and freshly ground black pepper on all sides. Place the salmon pieces skin-side up on the sheet tray (or down if preferred) leaving 2 inches between each piece.

3. Place the asparagus, sugar snap peas and cherry tomatoes in a bowl. Gently mix the vegetables with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil, 1/2 teaspoon salt and a fresh grinding of pepper. Scatter the vegetables evenly onto the sheet pan.

4. Place the sheet pan on the grill. In addition, place the lemons cut-side down directly on the grill grate towards the front of the grill. Close the lid and cook for 5 minutes at 80°C

5. After 5 minutes, remove the lemons from the grill and stir the vegetables. Close the lid and cook for 5 more minutes, or until the fish reaches an internal temperature of 60°C and can be flaked with a fork.

6. Remove the sheet pan from the grill. Place the fish and vegetables on a serving platter and drizzle with the pesto. Sprinkle the lemon zest over the top of the fish and vegetables and add a few basil leaves for garnish. Serve immediately. Enjoy!

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Tom Kerridge’s stars shine bright

Round & About

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Food & Recipes

Michelin results are out and Sarah Hayward wins Young Chef Award

The Michelin results are out and Tom Kerridge’s pubs have successfully maintained the prestigious accolades at both The Hand & Flowers (Head Chef Tom De Keyser) and The Coach (Head Chef Sarah Hayward), both in Marlow.

Head Chef Sarah Hayward also won big at last night’s Michelin Guide Awards for Great Britain and Ireland taking home the Young Chef Award at the prestigious event in Silverstone, where Tom Kerridge joined Sarah on stage to congratulate her. Michelin described Sarah as ‘tenacious and determined yet modest’.

Tom says: “I am obviously delighted that Tom and Sarah and the teams have maintained their Michelin stars, they are both incredible chefs who I have worked alongside now for many years. I am particularly thrilled for Sarah winning the Young Chef Award, she is a fantastic chef, level-headed, grounded, focused and truly dedicated to her craft. She has put her own stamp on The Coach, I’m so proud of her, she is such a talent.”

Sarah said: “Wow, I am really blown away to be honest and really humbled to receive the Young Chef Award, what an honour. I have so much respect for Michelin and I know how proud my dad will be, being a chef himself. I’m so grateful to my team and of course Tom Kerridge, who has helped me become the chef I am today and given me the confidence and belief that I can achieve anything.”

Maintaining two Michelin stars at The Hand & Flowers, Head Chef Tom De Keyser says: “I am delighted, myself, the kitchen and front of house team work so hard throughout the year to keep standards as high as they can be and I couldn’t be prouder of the team. There will definitely be a few celebratory drinks!”

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Easter wine recommendations

Round & About

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Food & Recipes

Discover some fantastic new wines for Easter. Round & About’s wine columnist Giles Luckett recommends a clutch of new wines for Easter.

Hello! With Easter in the offing and the prospect of some downtime over the extended weekend, I thought I’d look out for some wines to suit the season and the celebration. I’ve always loved Easter. As a good Catholic boy, it meant a deluge of chocolate (scoffed between seemingly endless trips to Mass), and later in life, it marked the end of Lent and a return to wine. Now, while I can’t claim to have forsworn wine for the forty days – the attempt would have been sworn at – I have made the acquittance of some wines that I’m sure will brighten your Easter break. So, in the spirit of helping my fellow man, here are six of the Easter best:

First up, one of the prettiest rosés I’ve seen in a long time, the Provence Rosé from Adnams (£11.99). While many rosés seem to focus on creating looks so exotic they would put a Versace perfume bottle to shame. Adnams seem to have focused their efforts on the contents – I know, a fresh form of madness or what? It has paid off, however, as the wine is so attractive. Made from Grenache, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon, the nose offers enticing tones of flowers, red berries, and citrus. On the palate, there’s a seem or pure red berry (raspberry, strawberry, and bitter cranberry) that’s deliciously offset by citrus and minerals. If the sun decides to shine this Easter, this will make a superb garden sipper.

“If the sun decides to shine this Easter, this will make a superb garden sipper.”

My next recommendation is an Albarino. Albarino is a grape whose class is undeniable, whose wines can be astonishingly good, and is regarded as a national treasure in its native Spain. Think liquid Stephen Fry without the passion for Norwich City, and you won’t be far off. While there are many great ones out there, the Pazo San Mauro (Palmers Wine Store £17.42) is a real treat. Freshness is the keyword here. From the explosive grapefruit, green apple, and herb-tinted nose to the ripe yet tangy pear, peach, melon and lemon palate, this is as clean as a whistle. Look closer, and you’ll find depth and complexity. Nectarine, minerals, a shot of honey. This is made for seafood – literally in Spain – but would be glorious with green salads, chicken, smoked fish, or Good Friday’s fish supper.

Sticking with Spain but moving to the other end of the tasting spectrum, we have the Contino Blanco 2019 (Noble Grape £23.99) – confession time; I’m obsessed with Contino’s Riojas. There’s something magical about this producer. Maybe it’s how they meld tradition with innovation or how they can create so many extraordinary styles from a single estate. Or simply as the wines are often breath-taking.

Breath-taking is the word I’d use for the Contino Blanco. I’ve only had this wine once, so perhaps I’m still in the first flush of infatuation, but it seemed to be love at first sip. Mid-gold, the bouquet is complex, displaying honey, almonds, pears, lemons, and wax. In the mouth, it’s mellow but clean, with layer-upon-layer of orchard fruits, warm spices, honey, lime, and butter. A real show stopper, give this a couple of hours open and pair it with white meats or fish.

Easter Sunday will see us hosting half the western world – pop in if you’re at a loose end; one more won’t make any odds. With recovery Monday the following day and with roast beef a must, a goodly supply of a great value red is a necessity. This year I’ve got some of the Antakari Carmenere Reserve (Laithwaites £8.99). Carmenere is Chile’s signature grape, and this iteration is packed with soft blackberry and blueberry fruit, with underlying notes of chocolate. Easy drinking; it’s a great wine that offers great value.

Back to Spain, we have another Rioja, this time the Vina Real Crianza 2019 (Waitrose £12.40). This is Rioja in exuberant form. Made from Tempranillo, Garnacha, and Mazuelo, it’s red berry-driven, but beneath the surface are richer tones of plum, creamy oak, spices, and orange zest. This is one of those wines that cries out for a food partner, and dishes as varied as cheesy pasta, tapas, roasted red meats, or, weather-permitting, barbecued fare would be ideal.

My penultimate wine is something of a myth-buster. To many, the name Beaujolais conjures up visions of hoorays charging to France in November to bring back Nouveau (why they bothered, I’ll never know) or pretty but forgettable flower-adorned bottles from Dubouef. Real Beaujolais is made from sterner stuff and is Burgundy’s best-kept secret. had the Louis Jadot Beaujolias Villages 2021 (Tesco £12.50) last week, and it was fantastic. My expectations were high as 2021 was a lovely year for Burgundy, and I wasn’t disappointed. With its bouquet of cherries, bubblegum, blackberries, and wildflowers, it’s as pretty as a picture of, well, something nice. In the mouth, there are the same fruit tones, but there are minerals, strawberry conserve, mint and almonds, all presented in a soft, edgeless body.

And finally, fizz. Oh, come on, you didn’t think I’d do a column without mentioning it? Might as well expect the rain not to be wet. Easter is a time for celebration, so here are two gems for you. The first is the Bouvet Ladubay Saumur Rosé (Majestic £10.49). Saumur in France’s Loire Valley was making sparkling wines when the likes of Dom Perignon were getting to grips with their Ladybird Book Of The Catechism. With its marginal climate, free-draining limestone soils, and long growing season, Saumur is a great place to create quality sparkling wines. The pale pink fizz bristles with notes of black cherry, green peppers, apples, peach stones and creamy yeast.

My second is Champagne Taittinger’s Nocturne (Tesco £39). Nocturne is a ‘sec’ Champagne, which means it’s not as dry as a brut. This wine demands time, one to sip after a meal or into the evening. The classic, elegant Taittinger style is there, but the extra residual sugar extenuates the peaches in syrup tone to give a champagne that, while far from an off-dry demi-sec, has a certain richness and silky, tropical edge to it. It’s a marvellous accompaniment to good conversation and gives a fresh view of this historic wine.

Well, that’s it for now. Next time, I’ll look at some wines from that bastion of brilliance, the Rhône, but until then, have a great Easter.

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Italian delights from Gennaro Contaldo’s

Round & About

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Food & Recipes

We’re sharing a taste of Gennaro’s Cucina: Hearty Money-Saving Meals from an Italian Kitchen by Gennaro Contaldo, out now published by Pavilion Books

Ä Linguine alla puttanesca

This typical Neapolitan dish is sometimes referred to as pasta alla marinara or simply as con olive e capperi, which are com-mon ingredients is this part of Italy. The name Puttanesca came about in the mid-20th century it was claimed that this dish was served in the brothels of Naples – puttana means ‘whore’ in Italian. Another theory was that a restaurant owner on the island of Ischia put together this dish when a group of late-night customers asked him to make una puttanata qualsiasi – in other words, make whatever you’ve got to hand. And that is exactly what he did with the ingredients he found in his kitchen. Whatever the reason behind its title, this spicy pasta dish is quick and simple to prepare with store cupboard ingredients.

Ribollita

This traditional hearty Tuscan soup is perfect for using up vegetables and stale bread. It was born out of a necessity to make meals go further and last longer. It was probably also made to be eaten for several days, hence its name Ribollita, which means “to reboil”. You can use any type of cabbage, spring greens and spinach and basically any vegetables you have.

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Hogs Back welcomes Little Ginger Swine

Karen Neville

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Food & Recipes

New addition to the low alcohol beer family for Surrey brewery

Surrey-based Hogs Back Brewery is adding to its Little Swine family of low alcohol beers with the launch of flavoured craft ale Little Ginger Swine.

With an ABV of 0.5%, and spiced up with natural ginger extract after brewing, Little Ginger Swine is a full-bodied, flavoured pale ale, brewed with four speciality malts and three hop varieties including aromatic Cascade from Hogs Back’s own hop garden, and dry hopped with Mosaic for a robust citrus finish.

The addition of ginger gives a spicy kick which complements the crisp, smooth, ale, creating a memorable beer that punches well above its weight in flavour terms, despite its low ABV. Little Ginger Swine join Little Swine 2.8% and Little Swine 0.5% in Hogs Back’s expanding range of low alcohol beers.

Hogs Back Brewery managing director Rupert Thompson said: “We’re delighted to be expanding our Little Swine family. The strong consumer response to the existing Little Swine beers has shown that demand for low alcohol beers with plenty of character continues to grow.

“Little Ginger Swine has all the fiery character you’d expect from ginger with some to spare. We think that’s all part of its charm. It has a wonderful flavour that offers something different for the increasing number of beer drinkers enjoying low alcohol beers, making Little Ginger Swine a welcome new addition to the Little Swine family of beers.”

Little Ginger Swine 0.5% ABV is available in 500ml bottles with an RRP of £2.40.

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Blue Collar Corner’s 1st birthday weekend

Karen Neville

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Food & Recipes

Viral festival favourites The Showhawk Duo announced for celebration at Reading’s popular street food and drinks arena

On Friday 10th March, Reading’s popular street food and drinks arena Blue Collar Corner is celebrating 12 months as a permanent site in Hosier Street with a big free entry birthday bash.

Headlining the event will be viral sensation acoustic rave pioneers The Showhawk Duo, festival favourites famous for playing all the best dance/rave songs we know and love on two acoustic guitars, with millions of YouTube views.

Joining The Showhawk Duo on the night will be Rum & Donuts DJs, a trio of Blue Collar Corner resident DJs that know a thing or two about filling dancefloors, having recently warmed up for Grandmaster Flash and provided the soundtrack for Double Barrelled Brewery’s fourth birthday party last October. The party begins at 5pm and continues until midnight with Blue Collar bars serving celebratory booze all evening and Sarv’s Slice, El Asado and YouBao serving delicious street food until 10pm.

Blue Collar’s Glen Dinning said: “After the year of our lives, of summer boozing, next level street food, rotating beers and cocktails, a winter refurb, a cost of living crisis, World Cup screenings, massive DJ sets and live music, our baby will celebrate it’s first birthday on Friday 10th March.

“We’ll be going big that weekend,” Glen continues, “starting on Thursday 9th with the return of Thursday DJs and the launch of a special first birthday beer from Double Barrelled Brewery. On Friday it’s the big birthday bash with The Showhawk Duo & Rum & Donuts DJs. Saturday starts with an Indie Brunch followed by Six Nations rugby on our big screens then a party set from DJ Acronym.

“On Sunday 12th, we are raising funds for homelessness prevention charity, Launchpad, one of our partner charities, alongside local indie band Third Lung. Between 12-5pm we’ll have a stripped down live set from Third Lung, Loveless, Reliant & Who Ate All The Crayons.”

More events take place at Blue Collar Corner throughout March including the return of Big Jay’s Big Drag Brunch on Saturday 25th March. Reading Vintage Flea Market launches on Sunday 26th March, bringing a host of stalls from local dealers specialising in affordable original vintage, mid-century furniture, decor, home ware, clothing, signs, art and posters to the venue.

Full listings for DJs and events at Blue Collar Corner in March can be found below. More info on separate events is available at blue.collar | Facebook | Linktree

Thu 9th March – Feel Good Thursdays w/DJ Rich Sloman

Fri 10th March – 1st Birthday Party w/Showhawk Duo + Rum & Donuts DJs

Sat 11th March – Indie Brunch + Six Nations: England v France + DJ Acronym

Sun 12th March – Launchpad Fundraiser w/Third Lung (Stripped down) + guests

Thu 16th March – Feel Good Thursdays w/DJ Mark Fitzpatrick

Sat 18th March – Six Nations: Super Saturday + DJ Fajita Funk

Sun 19th March – Mother’s Day Specials

Thu 23rd March – Feel Good Thursdays w/DJ Rich Sloman

Fri 24th March – DJ Ryan MacGregor

Sat 25th March – Big Jay’s Big Drag Brunch + Rum & Donuts DJs + DJs Elle Cee & Kingpinn

Sun 26th March – Reading Vintage Flea Market + Boat Race Screening

Thu 30th March – Feel Good Thursdays w/DJ Rich Sloman

Fri 31st March – DJ Acronym

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