Round and About’s resident wine columnist Giles Luckett celebrates the Beronia Rioja and suggests some festive wine gifts
Hello. Over the last couple of weeks, I’ve been inundated with press releases telling me why X wine is this year’s Christmas essential.
Suggestions have ranged from the good – Louis Jadot ‘Les Roches Blanches’ Mâcon-Villages (Majestic £11.99 as part of a mixed six) – by way of the unusual – the Teleda Qvevri Saperavi 2022 (The Wine Society £17) – to the eye-watering – the Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs – Assemblage No. 4 (Champagne Direct £1,150). Elon Musk has this last wine coming out of his taps, apparently.
One recommendation that did strike a festive chord with me was the suggestion that people share their love of wine this Christmas with the gift of wine in the comely shape of the Beronia 3 Bottle Gift Pack (Ocado £65). People rarely give me wine as gifts, their reasoning being based either on them not knowing what to buy me or that I have enough wine already, a concept I simply don’t understand. If they did (Santa, please take note) then a Beronia three-bottle gift pack would be a cracking Christmas present. A bottle of the Beronia Crianza, Reserva, and the majestic Gran Reserva would spell a very happy holidays for me as I’ve been a fan of their wines for years. Equally, if I find my stocking contains a cheeky quarter bottle of the Beronia Crianza (Ocado £3.89) my Christmas morning lay-in will prove very jolly.
Beronia Rioja: Innovative. Sustainable. Genuine.
While it is one of the younger Rioja bodegas having been founded by a group of fine food-loving friends in 1973, Beronia is also one of the most dynamic and innovative. I tasted my way through their range earlier this year and was struck by the wines’ combination of value and excellence. Rioja remains the world’s most affordable fine wine region, and while some examples are getting seriously expensive – the Sierra Cantabria ‘Magico’ will set you back £375 a bottle – wineries like Beronia offer beauty on a budget.
What’s less well-known about Rioja is the diversity of styles that it offers. This is another reason why I’m such a fan of Beronia. Their motto is, “Wines that are honest through and through” and it’s a philosophy that’s manifested itself in them being led by the land, planting grapes that are best suited to their sites and using sustainable methods to ensure future generations can enjoy their wines. While it may have been tempting to produce nothing but red wines, the easiest to sell, instead they’ve crafted a range of white, rosé and red Riojas that are true to their roots.
So, with the long dark nights now with us, and with Slade already banking their PRS 2024 royalties, allow me to celebrate the wines of Beronia with you and recommend some real crackers.
First up, a white, the Beronia Virua (Songbird Wines £11.75). This wine encapsulates Beronia’s approach to winemaking to me. Traditionally white Riojas were heavy, oak-laden affairs that were as zesty as a bottle of sunflower oil and about as appetizing. This though is a modern take on it. Complex and intense on the nose, it offers citrus, apple and white peach with a hint of pineapple, pear and savoury herbs. Medium-bodied, its intensity makes it feel more powerful than it is and means it’s the perfect partner for seafood white or brown meats, or as a satisfying solo sipper.
Next up is a pair of Rioja rosés. If white Rioja was historically the region’s poor relation, then rosé Rioja was the barely tolerated black sheep. The main reason for this was that rosé Rioja was made either as an afterthought or by using over-cropped Garnacha grapes to use them up. Beronia has given rosé (rosado) Rioja the respect it deserves, and they offer two exceptional examples. The first is the bouquet packed with strawberries, red cherries, blossoms and citrus. On the palate, it’s lively, fresh and full of life, with strawberries, raspberries and loganberries being offset by almonds, gentle spices and rhubarb. This is just the thing for savoury hors d’oeuvres or smoked fish.
Their other rosé Rioja is the Alegra de Beronia which takes rosé Rioja to a whole new level. Designed to be a fine wine, it’s just that. Rose gold in colour, the nose offers a subtle blend of plums, black cherries and strawberries with just a touch of pomegranate. In the mouth, it’s full, mellow, rich and refined. Layers or red and black fruits are held in a low acidity, luxurious body that gives it weight, depth and complexity. I’ve had this with risotto, spring lamb, and on its own and it’s always impressed me. I’ve even tasted it against the Whispering Angel range – including the £90 a bottle Garrus – and the Alegra was my favourite.
And so, to the reds. When it comes to red Rioja, Beronia really does spoil you for choice, and having had all their wine on multiple occasions, I would recommend them all. But to highlight Beronia’s innovation and diversity I’ve picked three of my favourites.
The first is the Beronia Reserva 2019 in magnum (Amazon £30). Magnums (two bottles in one) are my favourite bottle format. Not only do they allow wines to develop more slowly and ultimately achieve greater complexity, but they are also great for large gatherings and look so impressive on the table. The Beronia Reserva is only made in exceptional years (and 2019 was one of the best ever) and is given a minimum of a year in oak and two years in bottle before it is released. The result is a powerful, rich, dark, spicy wine that’s packed with juicy black berries, tangy red fruits, herbs and has a touch of chocolate and cherry liqueur to the finish. Pair this with roasted red meats, hard Spanish cheeses, or a selection of cured meats, olives, and tomato-based dishes.
Mazuelo may not be a grape you’re that familiar with, especially coming from Rioja where it accounts for less than 2% of black grape plantings. When yields are kept low and when it’s planted on the right soils, however, it can be spectacular. Beronia’s Mazuelo Reserva (Amazon £20.60) is a fantastic example of what it can do. Inky blue-black, the grape’s natural red berry freshness shines through on the nose, with the long oak ageing adding vanilla spice and a twist of green herbs. With its flavours of bright red berries, creamy vanilla, and a touch of sweetness, this is a fascinating wine that shows a completely different style of Rioja. Enjoy this with brown meats – its juiciness means it’s perfect with cold turkey – blue cheeses or nuts.
I’ll finish with a flourish and the Beronia III a. C (Cellar Door Wines £65). This is a taste of wine history. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Rioja’s vineyards were devastated by the phylloxera beetle and most vines had to be ripped out. The Beronia III a. C is made from vines that survived phylloxera’s onslaught and offers old-world charm with modern-day freshness and vibrancy. Aged for 15 months in a mixture of old and new oak, its signatures are blackberries, cherries, and red fruits with hints of liquorice, cocoa, vanilla and aged balsamic. Wonderfully complex and nuanced, give this several hours open and serve with goose or game as you would a fine red Burgundy.
All this talk of Beronia has given me a thirst, so I’m off to read my daughter’s letter to Father Christmas, after which I’ll need a stiff drink. Next time, festive fizz.
Cheers!
Giles
