The Best Champagnes of The Year

Round & About

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Round and About’s resident wine columnist, Giles Luckett, gives his recommendations on the best luxury champagnes of 2024

Hello. As regular readers of this column know, I’ve a bit of a thing for champagne. A ‘thing’ in the same way that flowers have a bit of a ‘thing’ for sunlight. While I am passionate about most wines, there’s nothing to match the delicacy, complexity or pure pleasure of a great glass of champagne. So, you can imagine my excitement when I was asked to a tasting of the Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy (LVMH) champagne portfolio. This was my Golden Ticket event and while there weren’t any sweets on offer, I did feel like a very big kid in the world’s greatest sweet shop.

All the wines on show were hugely impressive. The Moët & Chandon Brut Imperial (Majestic £48) was in great form and the Ruinart Rosé (Majestic £80) will be on my dining table again this Christmas. For this piece though, I’m going to focus on the rare prestige cuvee wines such as Dom Perignon and Krug. I’ve tasted, reviewed, bought and sold hundreds of these luxurious wines over the years and the question I’ve often been asked is, ‘Are they worth the money?’ My answer’s always the same, a resounding yes. These are unique, wonderful, awe-inspiring wines that are the perfect centrepiece for a celebration. They are not cheap, but then the finest things in life never are. Anyway, here is a selection of my notes from a very special tasting.

Dom Perignon is arguably the most famous champagne in the world, and its exceptional reputation is well-deserved. The tasting gifted me the opportunity to try not just one Dom Perignon but three. The first one was the Dom Perignon 2012 in magnum (The Champagne Company £475). Magnums, double-sized bottles, are the perfect format for champagne. It allows the wine to develop more slowly and gain greater complexity over time and saves me from getting up and getting a second bottle. 2012 was top-flight vintage and having tried Dom Perignon 2012 in bottle, it was fascinating to taste it from magnum as it felt like I’d gone back in time. The bouquet was joyous, fresh and youthful. Apple blossom, pears, melon, spices and acacia seamlessly came together. In the mouth, it was lively, vigorous, and yet had that seductive silkiness that is one of Dom Perignon’s signatures. The fruit ranged from melon and pear to raspberry and white currant with a chalky, slightly saline seam. Gorgeous now, it has a wonderful future.

Next was the Dom Perignon Rosé 2009 (Findlays £299) and it was entrancing. Very deep pink, the nose was a seductive blend of red cherries, blackberries, oriental spices and citrus. In the mouth, it has more weight and glycerine than the 2012 and offered layer upon layer of summer pudding, chalky minerals, citrus, and red cherries all of which were shot through with a fruity spiciness. What a time!

Completing this amazing trio was the Dom Perignon 2006 Plenitude 2 (Millesima £370). Now this is a wine that needs a little explanation, but basically plenitude refers to the wine’s state of evolution. Moët and Chandon leave a small proportion of wines from exceptional vintages in their cellars and release them in their second and third plenitude years after the initial release. Like the 2012 in magnum, this was another taste of history. Bright and bracing on the nose, the yeast and mineral elements were much more apparent. On the palate, the surge of fresh green and red fruits – kiwi, greengage, strawberry, raspberry – were underpinned by ripe, fleshy pears, apricots, plus vanilla, spices, minerals and a touch of lemon curd. A remarkable wine which is all about elegance at this stage, over the coming years it will take on a delicious autumnal fruit and smoke tone that will be quite something.

Next is a wine that always delights, the Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2013 (The Champagne Company £230). Dom Ruinart is the world’s oldest Champagne House, and its wines are impeccable. This is one of their flagship wines and is made exclusively from Chardonnay, a fact that never fails to astonish me given how much weight, depth and complexity this beautiful wine manages to convey. Ghostly pale with minuscule pearlescent bubbles, the bouquet offers fresh pears and red apples alongside lemons and vanilla foam. In the mouth there was a sublime mix of green and yellow fruits, white berries, custard apple, hazelnut, and a tang of sea salt. A hauntingly beautiful wine, its intensity and firm acidity suggest a long life ahead.

It’s not often that I get to enjoy Krug Grande Cuvee. It’s rare that I get to taste Krug Vintage, and the last time I got to try them against each other TikTok was being touted as the next big thing. Krug is unique. Its combination of power, intensity, elegance and nuance make it unlike any other wine and it’s a champagne that should be on every wine lover’s bucket list. I tasted the Grande Cuvee 172eme Edition (The Finest Bubble £204), the number signifying which iteration it is. These Editions differ as they are made from different vintage wines, in this case from 11 different years. The 172 boasted an expansive bouquet with aromas of lemons, grapefruit, honey, red blooms, apricots and roasted nuts. On the palate, it showed extraordinary complexity and class. Powerful flavours of yellow plums, apples, melon, liquorice, dried pears, red currants and spices. Tremendous now, it will develop and put on even greater richness over the next decade or so.

The Krug 2011 (Champagne Direct £350) is destined to be another legendary champagne. Only made in the finest vintages, and then in tiny quantities, Krug vintage always puts in a barnstorming performance. Mid-gold, the surprising freshness on the nose helped keep the masses of tropical fruit, nuts, honey and blackberry notes in check. Mouth-filling, it was all I could do to keep track of what my palate was experiencing. Grapefruit, lemons, raspberries, vanilla, peaches, apricots, strawberries in cream, green herbs, savoury minerals, the list went on and on. Remarkably for all its complexity and breath-taking size, everything was balanced, in perfect proportion, and poised. A showstopper now, it reminded me of a young Grand Cru Burgundy in that for all its immediacy, you know there is so much more to come.

My last recommendation isn’t an LVMH wine, but all that tasting left me with a raging third and when I got home, I opened a bottle of champagne. The last time I had Taittinger 2015 (Slurp £69.95) was at Taittinger a couple of years back. I remembered it being excellent, but I thought it needed more time before it would show its hand, and so it proved to be. The colour is now a rich gold punctuated by pretty amber bubbles that bring forth notes of red apples, peaches, and toasted brioche. In the mouth it’s ripe and rounded, the slight lemony tone of youth having mellowed to peach while the firm raspberry acidity has relaxed to add a lovely strawberry note. Medium-bodied but with wonderful richness and intensity, this was the perfect way to end a perfect day.

Next time out, I’ll be looking at the fantastic Riojas from Beronia.   

Cheers! 
Giles 

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Six great Lugana wines

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Round & About Magazine’s resident wine columnist Giles Luckett rediscovers with white wines of Lugana, and finds beauty and value

When it comes to naming your favourite Italian white wine, you’d be forgiven for not saying Lugana. Other Northern Italian wines such as Soave are far better known even though the quality of Lugana is often superior and significantly better value for money. I must confess, that until my recent attendance at a Lugana tasting, I’d pretty much forgotten about the region’s wines. The first wine shop I ran had a couple of Lugana’s, and whenever someone came in looking for a good value, easy drinking white, they were my default recommendations. They were fruity, uncomplicated and fun. They weren’t fine wines in the serious sense of the word, but they were, well, fine.

At the tasting it quickly became clear that the wines of Lugana have come a long way in the past 30 years. There are now Riserva level wines and wines that have been aged in oak. Across the board they seem to have become more serious and complex yet have retained the joyous citrus, pear and peach fruitiness that so impressed me all those years ago.

To celebrate my reacquaintance with this pearl of a wine, here are six Lugana wines that any lover of great value, elegant white wines should seek out.

About the Lugana wine region

OK, notebooks open, please, I may be asking question later. To give you a little context, the Lugana region lies in Northern Italy and straddles the provinces of Brescia in Lombardy and Verona in Veneto. It’s unusual to see a wine region across over into another province, but Lugana is an unusual wine. It’s made from the Turbiana grape, which was formerly known Trebbiano di Lugana even though genetically it has much to do with the Trebbiano family as I do the Royal Family. The name was changed to distinguish it from Trebbiano wines which tend to be about as engaging as a health and safety video. 

Turbiana gives fresh whites with fruit notes of pears and peaches, a lemon acidity and a distinctive mineral edge that comes from the glacial soils on which they are grown. This profile lends itself well to the production of sparkling wines, many of which, such as the excellent Ca Maiol (Svinando £19.90) are serious and stylish. Recently, however, there’s been a push for higher quality, age worthy wines. Many critics and producers have long suspected that this wonderfully sited region could produce world class whites, and as the following shows, their suspicions were well-founded.

Six great Lugana wines

First up, a surprise wine. I was surprised to see a Lugana in ASDA and was surprised that they were selling a wine of this quality for just £11. The imaginatively named Lugana Italian Wine is classic example of Lugana. White gold with a hint of emerald green, the nose is a lovely mix of pears and peaches with a shot of lemon freshness. Medium bodied and nimble, mouthwatering flavours of citrus

Next up is the Nunzio Ghiraldi (Majestic £14.99). Crafted using organic methods on vines that are a stone’s throw from Lake Garda, this balances freshness and depth to give a more serious style of Lugana. Produced from ancient vines, the nose is somewhat more complex, conveying notes of white blossoms and wet clay alongside the green and white fruits. The palate is generous and fruity, with peaches and pears joined by apricot, minerals and a clean lemon acidity. Try this with game birds or a creamy risotto.

Showing Lugana’s stylistic diversity we have the Lugana Bertagna 2023 (£9.67 Vivino). This is a fresher, more intense wine which is evident from the bouquet which has lemon and grapefruit mingling with zesty apricots, honeydew melon, and just-ripe kiwi fruit. These notes are mirrored on the palate where they are joined by limes, white pepper, yellow plums and a peach stone bitterness to the end. Try this with fresh pasta with mushrooms, seafood, and vegetarian dishes such as couscous with roasted artichokes.

My favourite wine of the tasting was probably the Alberto e Mauro Zenegaglia Luna del Lago Lugana Riserva (Vivino £14.72). Riserva level wines are relatively rare and must be aged for at least two years before being released. This spent 18 months in large old oak barrels and this has had a dramatic effect on it. More golden in colour, the effects of oxidation are present on the nose which is rounder and fuller, with scents of honey and lemon, apricots and jasmine coming the fore. In the mouth it has a creaminess to it, and the fruit profile is more autumnal – plums, green figs, and pears – but it is still fresh and tangy. A lot of wine for the money, this was delicious on its own, but I could see it going wonderfully well with gammon, roast chicken, or smoked fish.

If you’re looking for a white wine that combines richness, weight and delicacy, then the El Citera Lugana L’Artigianale (Vivino £23.64) is for you. I tasted the 2018 which was fantastic and goes to show how Lugana can improve with age. Having been macerated for 24 hours on its skins, this wine had notably more texture to it. It’s also given two years to mature in vats before release. All this adds up a richer, yeastier wine, one that has plenty of lemon and lime freshness, but has notes of baked apple, toasted almonds, green herbs and chalky minerals too. I loved this on its own, but I plan to try this with roast pork or meaty fish such as sea bass in a cream and herb sauce – not that I’m menu planning or anything.

I’ll finish with a step up in quality (and price) with the Ca’ Lojera Lugana Riserva del Lupo 2018 (Vinissimus £33.50). Once-upon-a-time a Lugana at over £30 a bottle would have been virtually unheard of, but the quality of this wine more than justifies the price. Straw gold in colour, the bouquet offers notes of herbs and honey alongside the usual citrus and green skinned fruits. On the palate there’s an extra degree of richness too. Honey, almonds, plums, and red apples sit alongside baked lemon and spicy vanilla. The finish is long and firm making this the ideal wine for river fish, salt cod, pheasant or turkey.

Well, I hope this has whetted your appetite for the wines of Lugana. There are many brilliant wines to be had and they’re still (for now) cracking value.

Next time out, I’ll be looking at some rather fine Champagne – yes, it is a tough life!

Giles

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Easter wine recommendations

Round & About

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Discover some fantastic new wines for Easter. Round & About’s wine columnist Giles Luckett recommends a clutch of new wines for Easter.

Hello! With Easter in the offing and the prospect of some downtime over the extended weekend, I thought I’d look out for some wines to suit the season and the celebration. I’ve always loved Easter. As a good Catholic boy, it meant a deluge of chocolate (scoffed between seemingly endless trips to Mass), and later in life, it marked the end of Lent and a return to wine. Now, while I can’t claim to have forsworn wine for the forty days – the attempt would have been sworn at – I have made the acquittance of some wines that I’m sure will brighten your Easter break. So, in the spirit of helping my fellow man, here are six of the Easter best:

First up, one of the prettiest rosés I’ve seen in a long time, the Provence Rosé from Adnams (£11.99). While many rosés seem to focus on creating looks so exotic they would put a Versace perfume bottle to shame. Adnams seem to have focused their efforts on the contents – I know, a fresh form of madness or what? It has paid off, however, as the wine is so attractive. Made from Grenache, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon, the nose offers enticing tones of flowers, red berries, and citrus. On the palate, there’s a seem or pure red berry (raspberry, strawberry, and bitter cranberry) that’s deliciously offset by citrus and minerals. If the sun decides to shine this Easter, this will make a superb garden sipper.

“If the sun decides to shine this Easter, this will make a superb garden sipper.”

My next recommendation is an Albarino. Albarino is a grape whose class is undeniable, whose wines can be astonishingly good, and is regarded as a national treasure in its native Spain. Think liquid Stephen Fry without the passion for Norwich City, and you won’t be far off. While there are many great ones out there, the Pazo San Mauro (Palmers Wine Store £17.42) is a real treat. Freshness is the keyword here. From the explosive grapefruit, green apple, and herb-tinted nose to the ripe yet tangy pear, peach, melon and lemon palate, this is as clean as a whistle. Look closer, and you’ll find depth and complexity. Nectarine, minerals, a shot of honey. This is made for seafood – literally in Spain – but would be glorious with green salads, chicken, smoked fish, or Good Friday’s fish supper.

Sticking with Spain but moving to the other end of the tasting spectrum, we have the Contino Blanco 2019 (Noble Grape £23.99) – confession time; I’m obsessed with Contino’s Riojas. There’s something magical about this producer. Maybe it’s how they meld tradition with innovation or how they can create so many extraordinary styles from a single estate. Or simply as the wines are often breath-taking.

Breath-taking is the word I’d use for the Contino Blanco. I’ve only had this wine once, so perhaps I’m still in the first flush of infatuation, but it seemed to be love at first sip. Mid-gold, the bouquet is complex, displaying honey, almonds, pears, lemons, and wax. In the mouth, it’s mellow but clean, with layer-upon-layer of orchard fruits, warm spices, honey, lime, and butter. A real show stopper, give this a couple of hours open and pair it with white meats or fish.

Easter Sunday will see us hosting half the western world – pop in if you’re at a loose end; one more won’t make any odds. With recovery Monday the following day and with roast beef a must, a goodly supply of a great value red is a necessity. This year I’ve got some of the Antakari Carmenere Reserve (Laithwaites £8.99). Carmenere is Chile’s signature grape, and this iteration is packed with soft blackberry and blueberry fruit, with underlying notes of chocolate. Easy drinking; it’s a great wine that offers great value.

Back to Spain, we have another Rioja, this time the Vina Real Crianza 2019 (Waitrose £12.40). This is Rioja in exuberant form. Made from Tempranillo, Garnacha, and Mazuelo, it’s red berry-driven, but beneath the surface are richer tones of plum, creamy oak, spices, and orange zest. This is one of those wines that cries out for a food partner, and dishes as varied as cheesy pasta, tapas, roasted red meats, or, weather-permitting, barbecued fare would be ideal.

My penultimate wine is something of a myth-buster. To many, the name Beaujolais conjures up visions of hoorays charging to France in November to bring back Nouveau (why they bothered, I’ll never know) or pretty but forgettable flower-adorned bottles from Dubouef. Real Beaujolais is made from sterner stuff and is Burgundy’s best-kept secret. had the Louis Jadot Beaujolias Villages 2021 (Tesco £12.50) last week, and it was fantastic. My expectations were high as 2021 was a lovely year for Burgundy, and I wasn’t disappointed. With its bouquet of cherries, bubblegum, blackberries, and wildflowers, it’s as pretty as a picture of, well, something nice. In the mouth, there are the same fruit tones, but there are minerals, strawberry conserve, mint and almonds, all presented in a soft, edgeless body.

And finally, fizz. Oh, come on, you didn’t think I’d do a column without mentioning it? Might as well expect the rain not to be wet. Easter is a time for celebration, so here are two gems for you. The first is the Bouvet Ladubay Saumur Rosé (Majestic £10.49). Saumur in France’s Loire Valley was making sparkling wines when the likes of Dom Perignon were getting to grips with their Ladybird Book Of The Catechism. With its marginal climate, free-draining limestone soils, and long growing season, Saumur is a great place to create quality sparkling wines. The pale pink fizz bristles with notes of black cherry, green peppers, apples, peach stones and creamy yeast.

My second is Champagne Taittinger’s Nocturne (Tesco £39). Nocturne is a ‘sec’ Champagne, which means it’s not as dry as a brut. This wine demands time, one to sip after a meal or into the evening. The classic, elegant Taittinger style is there, but the extra residual sugar extenuates the peaches in syrup tone to give a champagne that, while far from an off-dry demi-sec, has a certain richness and silky, tropical edge to it. It’s a marvellous accompaniment to good conversation and gives a fresh view of this historic wine.

Well, that’s it for now. Next time, I’ll look at some wines from that bastion of brilliance, the Rhône, but until then, have a great Easter.

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