Michelin Guide 2026: the South East’s starred and standout restaurants

Round & About

food

The Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland 2026 has been unveiled, with new stars, sustainability awards and Bib Gourmands shining a spotlight on standout restaurants across the South East.

A favourite for foodies around the world, the annual Michelin Guide Ceremony revealed Great Britain & Ireland’s top restaurants at the Convention Centre in Dublin on Monday 9th February 2026 – with some standout stars here, in the South East.

Round & About highlights everything from Michelin and Green Stars to Bib Gourmands, as well as those retaining their coveted distinctions.

New Michelin Star restaurants for 2026

And one new Michelin star has been awarded in the South East for 2026…

Translating to ‘tide’ in Portuguese, Maré by Rafael Cagali is the first restaurant in Brighton and Hove to hold a Michelin Star for almost 50 years.

From the acclaimed chef behind London’s Da Terra – which earned its second Michelin star in 2021 – the venue offers sleek, modern interiors and draws on influences from Cagali’s Brazilian roots combined with forays into the Mediterranean, Mexico and Japan.

New Green Star restaurants for 2026

But that’s not all, with a restaurant in West Sussex winning a Green Star, too.

Green Stars recognise restaurants at the forefront of sustainable gastronomy — combining high-quality cooking with outstanding environmental practices.

This includes sourcing local, seasonal produce; reducing waste; and implementing ethical, environmentally responsible operations. 

Housed in an 18th-century barn near Horsham, Knepp Wilding Kitchen has been recognised for “practices that are helping to shape the future of gastonomy”.

Located on the Knepp Estate, the venue’s ethos focuses on rewilding – letting nature nurture the land and encouraging biodiversity – which in turn drives the restaurant’s menus.

Each dish is an example of farm-to-table dining with meat coming from the surrounding estate, and vegetables are grown in the 2.5-acre Market Garden, which is certified organic.

New Bib Gourmand restaurants for 2026

Lastly are the Bib Gourmand’s. Named after Michelin’s Bibendum mascot, the awards were launched in 1997 to recognise restaurants outside the guide’s traditional fine-dining price bracket.

In 2019, this was specified as venues serving three courses for £30 or under, but Michelin now says there is “no set formula” to win a Bib.

Instead, restaurants must offer “good quality, good value cooking”.

New for 2026 is British Contemporary restaurant, The Oarsman, in Marlow.

A classic brick-and-timber exterior sets the tone for a market-town dining pub whose cooking delivers.

Starters span smoked salmon, The Oarsman fish soup, and warm roast roots; mains include Bavette steak, seared cod and Scottish sea trout; while those with a sweet tooth can choose from Basque cheesecake, warm ginger loaf and Ecclefechan tart.

Offering Modern British fare, The Yurt at Nicholsons, North Aston has also been awarded a Bib Gourmand.

Located inside a yurt at the Nicholsons Nursery and offering a unique dining experience, there’s a back-to-nature feel to the place, with some of the menu’s ingredients grown on site.

Working closely with local growers and artisans to offer fresh, sustainable produce, the dishes are packed with the bold, natural flavours – and both the pricing and the portions are generous.

Michelin Stars retained in 2026

Not forgetting those establishments which have retained their distinctions – a real demonstration of commitment and consistency.

In Berkshire, The Waterside Inn in Bray has retained its three Michelin Stars, while The Hind’s Head continues to hold one.

The Hand & Flowers in Marlow has remained at two stars.

The Nut Tree Inn at Murcott has retained its single star.

In Surrey, Latymer, Sorrel, Starling and The Tudor Pass have all retained one Michelin Star.

For more information, visit the Michelin Guide’s website.

Big Feastival reveals 2026 line-up

Round & About

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Celebrating its 15th year in Oxfordshire, Big Feastival returns this August Bank Holiday with a diverse mix of music, food and family entertainment. From indie-rock favourites to award-winning chefs, find out what’s on the line-up in 2026.

Big Feastival is back in Oxfordshire in 2026, bringing celebrated musicians, Insta-worthy food and an abundance of family fun when it takes over Blur bassist, Alex James’ Farm from Friday 28 to Sunday 30 August 2026 – making for another cracking Bank Holiday weekend.

Who’s performing at Big Feastival 2026?

Bringing the energy, this year’s headliners include electronic music duo Basement Jaxx; The Streets, performing A Grand Don’t Come For Free in full for the first time; as well as indie pop band Bastille.

On the main stage, see drum and bass legends, RUDIM3NTAL; former Little Mix star PERRIE; alternative band, Doves, known for their soaring melodies; the powerful, piano-led pop of Freya Ridings; psychedelic rock and melodic pop outfit The Coral; as well as Ms Dynamite; comedy music trio, The Cuban Brothers; indie-rock favourites White Lies; The Ordinary Boys – and plenty more.

And it wouldn’t be Big Feastival without Barrioke, with EastEnders legend Shaun Williamson promising his trademark warmth and teasing banter.

Which chefs are at Big Feastival 2026?

And music’s not the only thing on the menu.

Award-winning chef, restaurateur and TV presenter Anna Haugh will headline the Big Kitchen stage. Chef patron of Myrtle Restaurant and The Wee Sister in London, Anna is a regular guest on Saturday Kitchen and Sunday Brunch – in 2026, Anna is due to join MasterChef as a judge, alongside acclaimed food critic Grace Dent.  

Plus, culinary talent will be leading demonstrations and workshops, including Rachel Allen of Ireland’s world-renowned Ballymaloe Cookery School and social media sensation Poppy Cooks, whose no-nonsense potato recipes have earned her a huge online following.

Throughout the weekend, Sally Abé, Emily English, Amber Francis, Tom Barnes, Matblak, Meera Sodha, Nokx Majozi, Jon Watts – and more – will also be sharing their brilliant recipes and advice.

Festival goers can also roll up their sleeves at The Big Feastival cookery schools and masterclasses, then sit back and watch expert chefs tame the flames in the festival’s very own BBQ area, The Smokery.

What family-friendly events are on at Big Feastival 2026?

Big Feastival’s child and family-friendly entertainment promises to delight younger festivalgoers throughout the weekend, too.

Children’s entertainer MC Hammer and Nick Cope provide high-energy, music-filled storytelling; little ones can see Gabby from Gabby’s Dollhouse, show off dance moves at the K-Pop Demon Hunters Disco, enjoy circus-antics of The Flying Seagull Project, and get creative outside in nature with Lizzie’s Way Woodland Play.

Plenty more announcements are still to come.

Tickets for 2026 are on sale now.

For more information or to book, visit Big Feastival’s website.

Images © Matt Higgs

Batter the opposition in Reading’s 2026 pancake race

Round & About

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Can your team take the Pancake Race title in 2026 and support Reading homelessness charity, Launchpad?

Launchpad’s flipping fantastic annual Pancake Race returns to Reading for its 28th year on Shrove Tuesday – 17th February 2026.

The challenge is simple: rally your most fearless, fancy dressed colleagues, grab a frying pan, and prove your team has what it takes to claim glory in the town centre…

Each year the costumes get wilder and more creative, with the popular event having seen everything from dinosaurs and astronauts to clowns, bananas and fast food icons racing through the town centre.

The stakes? Huge. The winners walk away with the people of Reading’s admiration, a fantastic prize donated by a local business and Launchpad’s coveted frying pan trophy.

Runners up won’t leave empty handed either, as there are prizes for second and third place, best team spirit, best fancy dress, and top fundraising team, too.

With the support of last year’s Pancake racers, more than 1,800 people facing housing or homelessness issues were helped last year.

Ready to compete? Here’s what you need:

• A team of four
• A brilliant fancy dress theme
• £150 team entry fee
• The courage to run, flip and battle it out against other teams

Last year’s fantastic champions, Davis Tate, have already signed up and are ready to defend their title bragging rights. Will they lift the title for a second time? Or will your team rise to the challenge and flip your way to first place?

Fiona Keyte, Launchpad Fundraising Manager, said: “Get ready Reading – you will not want to miss this cracking event! Whether you’re racing or cheering from the sidelines, it’s a sight to behold. The incredible fancy-dressed teams give it everything they’ve got, and over nearly three decades this event has raised thousands of pounds to support Launchpad’s work.

“We’re a local charity through and through, and the support we receive from Reading businesses at our very special race means so much!”

Be quick and sign up now — There are only 36 team places and entry fee is: £150 per team of four, first come, first served. You can secure your team’s place at: launchpadreading.enthuse.com/cf/pcr26.

Volunteers needed — Could you help with team registration, bucket collections and monitoring pancake flips. If you can help, email the team at: fundraising@launchpadreading.org.uk.

The Ultimate Harvest Party: Only at Hogs Back Brewery

Round & About

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It’s party time at the Hogs Back Brewery in Tongham with three days to celebrate another successful hop harvest

Hop Harvest Party weekend, September 12th-14th, will be bigger and better than ever with three days of fun, music, food and of course, beer and more.

Kicking off the Hop Harvest Party Weekend on Friday is the sensational Hogs Back Roots live music session with headliners The Shires, the country music, singer-songwriter duo. They are supported by Bryony Dunn and The Forest – expect “alt folk with hard edges, or indie rock with a soft centre” and local singer-songwriter and multi-instrumentalist, Emma Stevens with her catchy pop melodies, fused with folk and a touch of country.

Saturday brings the Hop Harvest Festival with music from Chilli Fighters, Noel Fitzpatrick Band, The Tarantinos, The Cinelli Brothers, Katy Hurt, Stop Thinking and Festival MC stand up comedian Patrick Monahan.

The three-day party winds down with a more relaxed family-friendly day with music from Ed Sheeran Experience, John Wilson Band and Hannah Dorman. The Kids Zone will be bigger and better than ever, with loads of fun for all the family.

The Hogs Back Bar will be serving a full range of Hogs Back and One Planet beers, including the legendary Tongham TEA, Hogstar Lager and Alcohol Free Little Swine Pale Ale, plus wine, gin and soft drinks. Look out for the pulled pork, BBQ, pizzas and much more. Vegan and gluten free options available.

For tickets for any of these great days visit here.

To read more about the surrey area, click here.

Chef John’s Culinary Magic at The Greyhound Inn

Round & About

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We chat to chef John Harrison who now leads the kitchen team at The Greyhound Inn in Letcombe Regis

Chef John: A Culinary Journey from Lancashire to The Greyhound Inn

John, a classically trained chef, moved from Preston in Lancashire to London in 2003. He began his apprenticeship at the National Portrait Gallery’s Portrait Restaurant, kickstarting his culinary career.

A Passion for Fine Dining and Michelin Stars

After gaining valuable experience in various fine dining venues, John honed his skills at Michelin-starred Paul Heathcote at Longridge. Later, he joined Marco Pierre White’s pub group in Oxford, followed by a Head Chef position at Newbury’s Manor House Hotel. There, he earned their second AA Rosette. After another time in London, John returned to Newbury in 2019, settling with his young family.

Simplicity, Flavour, and Tradition

“I have fond memories of my Grandma’s weekly baking: jam tarts, butter pies, and Eccles cakes,” says John. “Growing up, I admired Gary Rhodes and Marco Pierre White. Their ability to create dishes bursting with simple yet massive flavours is something I’ve always tried to replicate.”

With two AA Rosettes and an entry in the Good Food Guide, John’s cooking continues to attract attention. The Greyhound Inn, a charming pub-with-rooms, has earned a reputation for outstanding food and friendly service.

The Greyhound Inn: A Local Gem

In 2015, the Greyhound Inn reopened as a free house after being lovingly restored by Catriona Galbraith and Martyn Reed. The Grade II-listed building, along with its idyllic garden, is perfect for al fresco dining.

“I feature heritage tomatoes in my summer menus, alongside peaches and cherries,” John explains. “The oven-roasted chicken breast with chicken fat mash, slow-cooked leek, and onion is one dish I’m especially proud of. It’s the first dish I cooked here, and over time, I’ve perfected it.”

Craft Ales and Seasonal Dishes

The Greyhound Inn also offers four rotating real ales, sourced from the UK’s finest breweries. With local favourites like Butts, Ramsbury, and Little Ox, as well as seasonal ales, there’s always something new to try. The pub has won a local CAMRA award for five consecutive years, a testament to its dedication to quality brews.

John’s Guilty Pleasures and Memorable Meals

John confesses, “My guilty pleasure? Henderson Sauce on everything! We even gave it as a party favour at our wedding.” When recalling his most memorable meal, John fondly remembers dining at Trinity in Clapham: “Adam Byatt’s restaurant is phenomenal. Like Marco and Gary, he makes food taste incredible with simplicity.”

Book online and click here, pop by or call 01235 771969.

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Sun, Laughter, and Magic: Laguna Bay at Giffords Circus

Round & About

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Hats off to the Giffords Circus team for delivering a joyous celebration, with plenty of 1950s sass, with their 2025 summer show

Laguna Bay: Giffords Circus’ Joyful Seaside Spectacle

Laguna Bay is this year’s glittering, seaside-themed show from Giffords Circus. Set against the backdrop of a fictional 1950s Italian holiday resort, this performance has a retro charm that’s sure to leave you grinning like a Cheshire Cat.

A World of Fun & Laughter

Giffords Circus invites you into a whimsical world where the ordinary simply doesn’t exist. From the moment you step into the big top, you’ll be immersed in a performance full of laughter, awe, and a whole lot of heart. Laguna Bay blends vintage Riviera glamour with quirky British humour, creating a spectacular atmosphere of fun and escapism. It’s exactly what we need in these times!

A Show Full of Surprises

With Laguna Bay, you’re not just watching a show—you’re part of the performance. Giffords’ intimate and eccentric theatre style brings the audience close to the action, ensuring that every moment feels personal. The show’s direction by Cal McCrystal combines physical comedy, acrobatics, and live music into a seamless blend of unpredictable delight.

The Return of Tweedy the Clown

One of the most anticipated parts of Laguna Bay is the return of Tweedy the Clown. A beloved character, Tweedy is the show’s heart and soul. His impeccable comedic timing and rapport with the audience ensure that no one leaves without a smile. Tweedy’s physical comedy makes him a national treasure, adored by both children and adults.

Dazzling Acrobats & Aerialists

While Tweedy keeps the laughs rolling, the acrobats and aerialists will leave you breathless. Their performances seem to defy physics as they twist and turn high above. Horses bring elegance and power to the ring, adding even more layers to the breathtaking spectacle.

A Mediterranean Vibe & Stunning Costumes

The Mediterranean-inspired live band provides a vibrant soundtrack that adds depth to the circus magic. And the costumes—candy-striped swimwear, vintage parasols, and sun-bleached pastels—bring a golden-age beach resort feel that immerses you completely in the performance. You’ll want to join in the fun and grab a vintage swimsuit from the dressing-up box!

Fun for Everyone

Laguna Bay has something for all ages. The humour is multi-layered, so both kids and grown-ups enjoy it equally. The slower, dreamlike moments draw you in, while the fast-paced stunts keep you on the edge of your seat. Giffords Circus is known for its focus on community and craftsmanship. You can feel the love and dedication from every performer.

A Joyous Celebration

By the end of the show, my face ached from smiling—Laguna Bay is pure joy. It’s a celebration of silliness, shared human wonder, and a much-needed reminder of the magic in life.

Catch Laguna Bay in Oxfordshire, Gloucestershire, and Wiltshire between now and 28th September.

If you wish to here about more large events, click here.

Find out more about Giffords circus here.

Indulge in Italy’s Best at Marlow’s Prosecco Superiore Festival

Round & About

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Bucks fizz time! La Dolce Bolla in Marlow will host a two-day Fizzy Fest on 18th & 19th July, thanks to the wine bar’s owner, Prosecco pioneer Kristyna Weston

Prosecco Superiore Festival: Experience Italy’s Best Bubbles in Marlow

Did you know the UK is the third-largest consumer of Prosecco? Kristyna, who has spent years studying, working, and traveling across Italy, was already familiar with the top-quality Prosecco Superiore. However, when she returned to the UK, she couldn’t understand why Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore D.O.C.G wasn’t easily available.


From Passion to Business: The Birth of La Dolce Bolla

Determined to change this, Kristyna set out to introduce the best Prosecco Superiore to the UK market. She founded Fizzy Happiness Ltd, and later, La Dolce Bolla, bringing some of Italy’s finest producers to the UK. Kristyna’s hard work has culminated in the launch of the UK’s first-ever Prosecco Superiore Festival in Marlow, Bucks.


What to Expect at the Prosecco Superiore Festival

On the event day, imagine a lively square in Marlow filled with Italy’s finest Prosecco and the passionate producers behind each bottle. At the festival, you’ll enjoy:

  • Live Music that will create a vibrant atmosphere throughout the day
  • Masterclasses, including an exclusive one with Sarah Abbott, Master of Wine, on Friday, 18th July
  • Tasting Sessions featuring a range of Prosecco Superiore
  • Artisan Foods paired perfectly with the wines.

This event is strictly for over-18s only, and you can choose from two types of tickets:

  • Standard Tickets: £19pp, including entry, a tulip glass, and five tastings.
  • VIP Tickets: £49pp, which includes the standard benefits plus access to the exclusive Masterclass with Sarah Abbott.

Additional Attractions and Limited Tickets Available

Moreover, on 19th July, enjoy live music at Liston Court Gardens, offering a relaxing backdrop to your Prosecco experience. Tickets are limited, so make sure you secure yours today!

For more info & to book tickets, please visit here.

If you like reading things like this, click here.

Pluma on the pitch Spanish fundraiser

Round & About

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On Sunday, 20th July, award-winning Old Amersham restaurant Pluma brings a slice of Spain to The Lee Cricket Club for Scannappeal

Pluma Spanish Feast for Scannappeal – A Spanish Celebration at The Lee Cricket Club

Join us on Sunday, 20th July for an unforgettable afternoon at The Lee Cricket Club. The Pluma Spanish Feast for Scannappeal is a one-day event full of food, fun, and flamenco. You’ll experience the best of Spanish culture, all while supporting a fantastic charity.


A Refreshing Welcome

Start your experience with a glass of refreshing Sangria. As you sip, the delicious paella, prepared by Pluma’s chef, Sean Beckerberg, awaits. Choose from the traditional or vegetarian options. Don’t worry if paella isn’t your thing – an equally tempting alternative will be available.


Drinks, Dessert, and More

Enjoy a curated selection of Spanish wines, beers, and soft drinks to complement your meal. Afterward, treat yourself to dessert from The Works, offering a variety of ice creams and sorbets. They’re the perfect way to end your meal on a sweet note.


Flamenco Fun

As you enjoy your meal, immerse yourself in the rhythms of flamenco music. The London Flamenco Group will bring passionate, live performances to the event. If you’re feeling adventurous, join in! Learn a few steps or show off your own moves. The flamenco spirit is all about having fun and being free.


A Social Experience for All

This event is for everyone, whether you’re attending with friends, family, or flying solo. You’ll have a great time meeting new people and sharing this incredible experience. With delicious food, vibrant entertainment, and the warmth of Spanish culture, the Pluma Spanish Feast for Scannappeal is the perfect way to enjoy the season.


Supporting Scanappeal

Pluma’s co-founders, Charlie Baxter and Arantxa Fuentes, are proud to support Scanappeal. “We’ve always supported this charity, and we’re excited to help raise funds and awareness. Scanappeal is an important cause, and we hope the community joins us to make a difference,” they said.

Tickets £60pp in advance, including a welcome drink, paella, dessert & entertainment, 1-6pm on 20th July at The Lee Cricket Club, HP16 9NA. To buy yours, please visit here or call 01494 734161. Scannappeal is a registered charity dedicated to transforming healthcare in Bucks by funding state-of-the-art medical equipment for NHS hospitals including Amersham, Stoke Mandeville, Wycombe and more. Scannappeal’s mission is to bring the latest technology to local hospitals, enabling earlier diagnosis, more effective treatment, and care closer to home for patients. Over the past 38 years, Scannappeal has raised more than £20 million, directly benefiting one in four people in the local community.

To find out more about the charity, please visit here.

To keep reading about things happening in our area, click here.

Shake Shack Pride Menu 2025: Delicious Deals for a Great Cause in Oxford

Round & About

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Liz Nicholls checks out the colourful new menu at Shake Shack supporting the LGBTQIA+ community in Oxford

Trying to book a June dinner date with my busy teen feels trickier than getting my hands on VIP Glastonbury tickets…

But one whisper of “Shake Shack” & suddenly we’re on! And, as any parent of a 16-year-old will tell you, the experience can make you feel like the ridiculously thirsty half of a limp situationship.

Shake Shack Oxford

However, joy of joys, until 7th July Shake Shack is offering a special Pride menu and I’m very happy to tag along, as an ally & proud mum.

Barely a week goes by without a Shake Shack takeaway at ours and the new dishes are a delight. A favourite are those pleasingly old-school crinkle-cut chips topped with chipotle cheese sauce, spring onions and cherry peppers, which are welcome burst of flavour.

And the double cheeseburger, with its applewood smoked bacon, chopped cherry peppers and super-dooper sauce had me breaking out my Pulp Fiction impersonation (“that’s embarrassing, mum”). There’s also a Dragon Fruit Pomegranate Lemonade House-made lemonade if you fancy something less heavy to wash down your tasty burger.

And, holy moly, the Sprinkled with Pride! shake is beyond moreish. Don’t look at the calorie count (I never do anyway, do you?) but slurp on this concoction of vanilla frozen custard, crushed shortbread, rainbow sprinkles, topped with a swirl of whipped cream and strawberry glaze and you’ll have a glorious sugar rush.

I’m delighted to say that we’ve been back for this shake several times since (separately, obvs). And it’s not just rainbow-washing, either: £1 from each Pride Shake sold in Oxford will be donated to Oxford Pride. So we’re helping the cause, one slurp at the time.

Check it out on their website – www.shakeshack.co.uk/locations/oxford


Enjoyed reading about Shake Shack’s new menu? Click here to read discover other amazing food ideas

Delicious Middle Eastern Dishes: Noor Murad’s Lugma Recipes

Liz Nicholls

food

Discover flavourful Lugma recipes from Noor Murad’s cookbook Lugma: Abundant Dishes & Stories from My Middle East. Plus, win a copy!

Noor Murad’s Lugma brings the heart of Middle Eastern cooking to your kitchen – rich with spices, stories, and unforgettable flavours. We’re sharing three standout Lugma recipes that showcase everyday meals elevated with warmth and tradition. From nostalgic comfort dishes to vibrant stews, these recipes are perfect for breakfast, lunch, or dinner.


Lugma recipe, Arabic baked beans image

Arabic baked beans

Quick dinners as a kid were often baked beans on toast, smothered in cheddar and stuck under a hot grill until all melty. I could never be patient enough to wait either, and would burn my tongue on hot cheese lava and tomato sauce (worth it). It’s not uncommon to find some kind of white bean at a Middle Eastern breakfast table, stewed in a tomato-based sauce. This recipe is a happy amalgamation of the two. You can scoop it right out of the pan with warm pitas, or spoon it onto sourdough or baked potatoes and serve it for breakfast, lunch or even dinner. 

Serves four

Ingredients:

• 3 plum tomatoes (350g/12oz)  
• 3 tbsp olive oil 
• One onion, very finely chopped (180g/61⁄4oz) 
• Four garlic cloves, finely grated  
• 25g (1oz) fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated 
• One green chilli, finely chopped, seeds and all 
• 2 tsp cumin seeds, finely crushed using a pestle and mortar 
• 2 tsp coriander seeds, finely crushed using a pestle and mortar 
• 1 tsp paprika 
• 3 tbsp tomato paste (purée) 
• 1 tsp sugar 
• Two 400g (14oz) cans cannellini beans, rinsed and drained (480g/1lb 1oz)  
• 25g (1oz) fresh coriander (cilantro), finely chopped  
• 120g (41⁄2oz) labneh, bought or homemade (see page 101, made without the garlic), or cream cheese  
• 120g (41⁄2oz) mature cheddar, roughly grated (shredded) 
• Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 

For the topping:

• 3 tbsp olive oil 
• 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped  
• 15g (1⁄2oz) fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped 
• Three spring onions (scallions), green parts only, finely chopped 

Method:

Remove tomato stems, cut an X on the base, and cover with boiling water in a heatproof bowl. Leave for about two or three minutes, or just until the tomato skins visibly start to peel off. Drain, then carefully remove and discard the skins. Cut the tomatoes into quarters and set aside. 

Preheat the oven to its highest setting, placing a rack on the top shelf. 

In a large, cast-iron pan (or ovenproof sauté pan), heat the oil over a medium-high heat. Add the onion and 1⁄8 teaspoon of salt, turn down the heat to medium and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened and very lightly coloured. Add the garlic, ginger, green chilli, spices and tomato paste and cook for 2–3 minutes more, stirring often, until deeply red. Pour in 450ml (16fl oz) of water, then stir in the sugar, beans, tomatoes, 3⁄4 teaspoon salt and a good grind of pepper. Bring to a simmer and cook for about 12 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until the tomatoes are only just starting to lose their shape and the sauce has thickened just slightly. 

Stir in the coriander and remove from the heat. Top evenly with spoonfuls of the labneh (or cream cheese) then sprinkle with the cheddar. Bake for 12–15 minutes, or until browned and bubbling. 

Meanwhile, make the topping. Add all ingredients and a pinch of salt to a small pan. Cook gently over medium-low heat. Cook gently for about 12–15 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until softened and fragrant. Avoid browning. If it bubbles too much, lower the heat immediately. Transfer to a bowl.

When the beans are ready, spoon the topping all over the beans and serve warm. 


Lugma recipe, Fega'ata image

Fega’ata: bottom-of-the-pot chicken and rice 

Fega’ata refers to the very bottom of something, with ga’a meaning “bottom” and fe meaning “in”. Fishermen will often talk about ga’aet el bahar, meaning bottom of the sea, and in this uniquely Bahraini recipe it means ‘bottom of the pot’, where all the good stuff happens. The meat (or fish or vegetables) is left to steam and cook gently without any liquid, and the rice is piled on top. As with many of our dishes, it is inverted so that bottom is top and top is bottom. Don’t skimp on the onions as their moisture is what helps move things along. The chicken skin doesn’t get crispy here; it acts as a shield, keeping the meat nice and tender. 

Serves between six & eight. Soaking time: 20 minutes – 2 hours 

Ingredients:

• ½ tsp loosely packed saffron threads 
• 2 tsp rosewater 
• 2 tsp cumin seeds, finely crushed using a pestle and mortar 
• 2 tsp coriander seeds, finely crushed using a pestle and mortar 
• 1 tsp mild curry powder 
• 1 tsp ground turmeric 
• 1 tsp paprika 
• ½ tsp ground cinnamon 
• Two black limes: 1 finely ground to yield 1 tsp; the other broken in half, pips removed 
• 1kg (2lb 4oz) chicken thighs, bone in, skin on (about 8 thighs), patted dry 
• 100g (3½oz) yellow split peas, soaked in boiling water for at least 1 hour 
• Three onions, halved, and each half cut into 4 wedges (540g/1lb 3oz) 
• 400g (14oz) floury potatoes like Maris Piper (2–3), peeled and cut into 5cm (2in) chunks 
• One large plum tomato (130g/4¾oz), cut into 8 pieces 
• Three green chillies, left whole 
• 35g (1¼oz) fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated 
• Five garlic cloves, finely grated 
• 4 tbsp melted ghee 
• Four cloves 
• Three fresh bay leaves 
• Six cardamom pods 
• 375g (13oz) basmati rice, washed until the water runs clear, then soaked for at least 20 minutes or up to 2 hours, then drained 
• 2 tbsp coriander (cilantro), roughly chopped, to serve 
• fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 

Add the saffron, rosewater and 1½ tablespoons of hot water to a small bowl and set aside. Mix together all the ground spices and ground black lime in a small bowl. Mix chicken with half the spices, salt, and pepper. Marinate in a bowl. Mix well and set aside while you continue with the rest.

Bring a medium saucepan of water to the boil. Drain the split peas, add them to the boiling water and cook for 15 minutes, until two-thirds cooked. Drain and add to a large bowl, with the onions, potatoes, tomato, green chillies, ginger, garlic, the halved black lime, remaining spice mixture, 2 tablespoons of the ghee, 1 teaspoon salt and a generous grind of pepper, and mix together with your hands. 

Half-fill a large (around 28cm/11¼in), deep-sided, non-stick saucepan with water. Bring to the boil with 2½ teaspoons of salt, then add the cloves, bay leaves, cardamom and rice. Boil for just 4 minutes, then drain through a large sieve (strainer) set over the sink. Rinse and dry out the pan. 

To assemble, spread 1 tablespoon of ghee around the base of the clean pan. Spread with half the potato mixture, then top with all the chicken thighs, skin-side down. Top evenly with the remaining potato mixture, then spoon over half the saffron water. Top gently with rice and aromatics, spreading evenly without pressing or breaking the grains. Pour over the remaining saffron water and the final tablespoon of ghee. Cover with a tea towel and lid. Tie or secure the towel ends above the pot.

Place over a medium-high heat for exactly 15 minutes, rotating the pan halfway. Then, turn down the heat to low and leave to cook, undisturbed, for 1 hour and 45 minutes. 

Remove the lid and towel and let settle for 10 minutes. Place your largest platter over the pan and, in one swift movement, invert the whole thing onto the platter. Lift off the pan and shake the platter to distribute everything nicely. Don’t worry if a few bits stick to the base of the saucepan, spoon these onto the rice. Sprinkle with the coriander and serve. 


Lugma recipe, Mathrooba image

Mathrooba: Beaten Chicken and Rice

In testing recipes for this book I’d give away food to friends, neighbours and anyone willing to give the dishes a home. My dear friend Anosha, who eagerly claimed the mathrooba, said that I needed a better description than the one I had given her: “Hey, it’s me again, do you fancy a savoury porridge for dinner?” “You’re massively underselling it,” she fed back to me later that night, “Even my two-year-old loved it.” And she’s right: this is comforting, delicious and truly unique. Mathrooba, meaning ‘beaten’ in Arabic, is typically served during Ramadan, where it’s easy to digest but also satiating.

The rice, chicken and spiced tomato base is cooked low and slow until the meat is tender and the rice grains barely discernible. Then, staying true to its name, the mixture is beaten by hand into a consistency similar to a congee, but more heavily spiced and a little thicker. Call it nostalgia but it’s one of my all-time favourite dishes that I’ll happily eat throughout the year, but especially in the winter months. 

Serves six 

Ingredients:

For the mathrooba:

• 4 tbsp olive oil 
• 2 red onions, finely chopped 
• 1kg (2lb 4oz) chicken legs (about 4 large ones), skin on, bone in 
• Six garlic cloves, finely grated 
• 40g (1½oz) fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated 
• 1 tsp ground turmeric 
• 1 tbsp cumin seeds, finely ground using a pestle and mortar 
• 1 tbsp coriander seeds, finely ground using a pestle and mortar 
• 1 tsp garam masala 
• ½ tsp chilli flakes 
• ¾ tsp ground cinnamon 
• One dried lime (black or regular), pierced a couple of times with a sharp knife 
• 600g (1lb 5oz) plum tomatoes, roughly grated (shredded) and skins discarded (500g/1lb 3oz) 
• 3 tbsp tomato purée (paste)
• 40g (1½oz) coriander (cilantro), roughly chopped, plus an extra 1 tbsp, to serve 
• 20g (¾oz) dill fronds, roughly chopped, plus an extra 1 tbsp, to serve 
• 200g (7oz) basmati rice, washed until the water runs clear, then drained 
• 3 tbsp lemon juice 
• Fine sea salt and black pepper 

For the topping

• 3 tbsp olive oil 
• Three onions, halved and thinly sliced 
• Three mild fresh chillies, a mixture of green and red, left whole 
• 40g (1½oz) unsalted butter 

Method:

Heat the oil in a large, lidded, deep-sided, heavy-based pan over a medium-high heat. Add the red onions and cook for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally, just to soften. Add the chicken legs and cook for six minutes, turning to seal on both sides (they won’t be totally browned). Stir in the garlic, ginger, spices and dried lime and cook for two minutes, until fragrant.  

Add the tomatoes, tomato purée and herbs and cook for two minutes more. Pour in 1 litre (35fl oz) of water, then stir in the rice, two teaspoons of salt and a generous grind of pepper. Bring to a simmer, cover, turn down the heat to its lowest setting and leave to cook for 80 minutes, stirring every 20 minutes or so to prevent the bottom from catching.

Meanwhile, make the topping. Add the oil to a large frying pan (skillet) over a medium-high heat. Once hot, add the onions, chillies and ¼ teaspoon salt, stirring to coat in the fat, then turn down the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until  the onions are deeply caramelised and the chillies have softened, about 30 minutes. Transfer into a bowl, then return the pan to a medium heat with the butter. Cook for about seven minutes, stirring occasionally, until browned and smelling nutty. Empty into a small heatproof bowl to stop it cooking further. 

Once the mathrooba is ready, turn off the heat and then use tongs to remove the chicken legs and transfer them into a bowl. When cool enough to handle, discard the skin and bones (or save them to make a stock) then use two forks to roughly shred the meat. Stir the shredded chicken and lemon juice back into the pan. Using a whisk or a potato masher, beat the mixture for 5–10 minutes, until the rice grains are no longer discernible and the mixture resembles a spoonable porridge. If you’d like it a little looser, add another 100ml (3½fl oz) of hot water or so until you get your desired consistency. Taste and adjust salt and lemon levels at this point too (you might want to add more of either). 

When ready to serve, spread the mathrooba out in a large shallow bowl and top with the onions and chillies. Pour over the browned butter, sprinkle over the extra herbs and serve warm.


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