Round and About Magazine’s resident wine columnist discovers the joys of pairing Sherry with good and makes some delicious finds
Sherry: Do You Don’t Know What You’re Missing…
I love Sherry, there I’m out. While it’s associated with Christmas and maiden aunts in some quarters, Sherry is one of the wine world’s great joys. Sherry is remarkable not just for its brilliance, but also its versatility and food-friendliness. While it’s often regarded as an aperitif/digestif, it’s also a great accompaniment to food as I discovered during a recent Sherry and food pairing session.

First up, Tio Pepe (Sainsbury’s £13.50/£11.25 with Nectar). Tio Pepe is one of those wines that I find endlessly appealing and there’s usually a bottle in our fridge. Made from the Palamino Fino grape, it owes its pale colour and freshness to the film of yeast that grows on the wine’s surface, ‘flor’, which prevents oxidation and gives it its wonderful vibrancy and zest. With its abundant apple, grape, and citrus fruit and almond and salt tang to the bone-dry finish, it’s perfect with seafood, white fish or poultry in a creamy sauce.

Next, one of the lesser-known styles of Sherry, Palo Cortado. Palo Cortado starts life as a Fino but loses its protective flor and oxidises. Crucially it maintains some of its crisp intensity while taking on a nutty, dried fruit flavour. I tasted the Palo Cortado en Rama from Barbadillo (The Wine Society £20) and was utterly blown away. Loaded with dried fruits, hints of peel, honey, and roasted nuts, a seam of citrusy acidity kept it lively and bright with exotic spices adding even more interest at the finish. I had this with gazpacho soup and chorizo, and it was a delight, but I could see it working well with mushroom dishes or hard cheeses.

When it comes to food and wine matching, Amontillado Sherry hasn’t been a wine I’ve done much with. At tastings, there are invariably pieces of Manchego, pots of olives (no thanks!), or plates of tapas on hand, but I’ve always found this dark, nutty style of wine a fine solo sipper. This changed when I tasted the Vina AB 12-Year-Old Amontillado (Majestic £18,99 or £16.99 on a mixed six). Amontillado is another wine that starts life as a Fino and continues to age in barrel once the flor has died. The difference here is that it receives 12 years of ageing in cask. The result is a nutty dry wine with the full complement of dried fruits, nuts, mocha, and liquorice but with a zingy, grapefruit and lime freshness. I tasted this with mussels, tiger prawns with chilli and coriander, cold pork, and mushroom pâte and it worked wonderfully well with them all. The Vina AB was something of a revelation, so if you’re one of those people who’ve tried Amontillado and weren’t sure, I’d urge you to look at this one.

When it comes to Sherry with power and concentration Oloroso sets the pace. This mighty, brooding wine is typically loaded with dried fruits, coffee, black treacle, honey, roasted hazelnuts and a touch of overripe fruit sweetness to the dry, firm, spicy finish. At its best, it’s a magnificent wine that can pair well with everything from French onion soup and cheese fondue to game pie and lamb tagine. González Byass ‘Alfonso’ Oloroso (Master of Malt £17.50) is a fine example of this revered wine. I tried it lightly chilled and even with red meats, something I was sceptical about, it shone.

If you have a sweet tooth or are looking for something to pair with desserts, then a sweet Sherry is for you. While a lot of people think all Sherry is sweet, over 95% of it is dry. A great sweet Sherry, such as Gonzalez Byass’s Nectar (The Whisky Exchange £19.95) is a rare treat. Produced from Pedro Ximenez grapes, it’s luscious, powerful, sweet and gloriously indulgent. Offering barrel-loads of dried fruits, caramel, fudge, mocha, and hazelnuts it could easily be too much of a good thing, but the tangy, juicy acidity keeps everything balanced. I had this with blue cheese, a strawberry, tart, and over vanilla ice cream and it was sublime. I even had it with chocolate cake, a traditional no-no for wine, and it added spice and cleansed the palate perfectly.

I’ll finish with one of the most extraordinary Sherries I’ve ever tasted, the Apostoles Palo Cortado Viejo VORS (Majestic £29.99/£26.99 on a mixed six). The name’s quite a mouthful and so is the wine. This Palo Cortado is aged for 30 years in barrel during which time it takes on a deep brown hue and the dried fruit and nut flavours become even more concentrated. Unctuous, yet dry, there’s a caramel overtone to it that vies with the Fino’s acidity to create a wine of stunning complexity, depth and interest. While I’d happily sit and ponder this beauty on its own, it works wonderfully well with pâte, cured meats and creamy cheeses.
I do hope you will try some of these amazing wines. The quality and value are peerless and with spring’s fine weather hopefully on the way, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a finer alfresco sipper.
