Our wine expert Giles Luckett explores some cool wines from a land down under…
January brings Australia Day and my annual celebration of Aussie wine. I’ve been doing this so long I now can’t recall whether I started in relation to it or the other way around, but this year I’m looking at the cooler side of things with some cracking cool climate Australian Wines.
First up, a Sauvignon, the RedHeads Princess of Thieves Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (£10.49 Laithwaites). A Tasmanian winemaker once told me that Australian Sauvignon was ‘a weed that needs grubbing up’. He obviously hadn’t tried this. Produced in the cool of the Adelaide Hills, this is excellent with great intensity and an arresting purity. It opens with a piercing, zingy bouquet of gooseberries, lemons and flint smoke. In the mouth it’s just as enthusiastic, dropping gooseberry, rhubarb, and lemon fruit bombs across the tongue that leave minerals, lime peel and spearmint in their wake. A great solo sipper, this has the intensity to partner everything from fish pie to a green Thai curry.
Next, the coolest of cool whites from my favourite cool climate region, the Moorooduc Estate Chardonnay 2021 (£25.95 NY Wines) from Mornington Peninsula. Mornington Peninsula is a spit of land that lies to the south of Melbourne which by dint of being surrounded on three sides by water enjoys exceptional growing conditions. Here the McIntyre family produce wines of breath-taking quality that combine New World energy with Old World refinement. The Estate Chardonnay is white gold with a nose of blossoms, lemon, nectarine and peach. On the palate it’s fresh and zesty with a charge of white peach, grapefruit and lemon followed by delicate notes of orange zest, crushed nuts and red pears. Delicious now with fish or roasted fowl, it’s got time on its side.
And so, to the reds, and the queen of grapes in the shape of the Robert Oatley Signature Pinot Noir (£14.30 VINUM). Produced from grapes grown in the Yarra Valley, this is a wonderful example of that rarest of wine gems, an affordable Pinot Noir. Mid-red with a summery nose of wild strawberries, red cherries and spiced raspberries, its soft, velvety body offers a gentle combination of cooked red fruits, cream, and oriental spices. A taste of summer to accompany the wintry nights ahead.
I’ll finish with one of the best Shiraz I’ve had in years. The Mount Langi Ghiran 2021 Cliff Edge (Great Wines Direct £19.60) is a masterclass in cool climate winemaking. Hailing from the Grampians region of New South Wales, it conveys Shiraz’s complexity and concentration without being overwhelmingly powerful. From its beautiful blue-black robe rise notes of zesty cassis and fresh red berries with a touch of menthol, smoky oak, cherry jam and wild herbs. The palate balances freshness and weight with crisp blackcurrants, blackberries, plums and blueberries offset by mint, mineral, and Parma violet hints. A class act, pair this with slow-cooked red meats, tomato-rich pasta dishes, or falafel.
Well, that’s it for now, next month, it’s for the love of wine.
Cheers,
Giles