Independent music photographer Peter Nicholson shares his pictures of Southsea favourite Victorious last weekend
With many festivals in 2023 having to endure unseasonably bad weather, Victorious enjoyed a small window of summer over the final weekend of August. With an enviable line-up, and its position on Southsea seafront, the festival promised to be a seaside musical spectacle.
The weekend certainly lived up to that promise. This year’s festival was the biggest in its history. The area on Southsea common had been opened up even further, and all the stages were open for all three days. With up to 70,000 people attending each day of the weekend, it has certainly become one of the region’s biggest and most anticipated music events.
The headliner on each of the three days, could have graced any stage in the world and not been out of place. Jamiroquai, Kasabian, The Kaiser Chiefs, Mumford and Sons, Pete Tong, Alt-J, Ellie Goulding and Blossoms among the biggest names on the line-up.
Jamiroquai closed the main stage on Friday evening with a superb nostalgic trip through his 30 plus years of touring. Now in his fifties, and joking with the crown that he was heavier than he was in the 1990s, the feather headdress – wearing front man, showed no sign of wanting to slow down. His energy and stage presence were as evident as ever.
The Kaiser Chiefs, Kasabian and Mumford & Sons were the headliners on Saturday and Sunday. All of which received a fantastic welcome from the huge crowds. The light shows, sound systems were as impressive as the performances.
One of the other things the Victorious team seem to get right every year is how they support smaller and local artists. With a collection of stages across the site, the biggest challenge for any attendee is planning a route so as not to miss any of the acts they came to see! This challenge was mitigated by the excellent app that was available for the event. It allowed you to plan where to be and when. However, being late for a stage time, probably meant you were side-tracked by one of the on the other stages on your route! The World Music stage was one of the busiest areas, as was the acoustic stage. Both of which boasted a line-up that had talent enough for the main stages.
The whole weekend was a credit to the organisers and to the city of Portsmouth.
Missed summer? You’re sure to feel the glow with a minibreak at Donnington Valley Hotel, Golf & Spa
Summer this year has offered a bit of a false dawn: a scorching few weeks followed by soggy second half…
But if you weren’t able to jet off to sunnier climes August onwards (like the rest of the world, judging by social media) I recommend a stay at Donnington Valley where the warm welcome is sure to top up your mojo levels.
Backing on to the rolling landscaped golf course (which is even prettier in autumn mizzle) the privately owned four-star hotel and spa has earned rave reviews and several industry awards for its top-notch hospitality and food. No wonder it’s become a popular choice for everyone, from walkers to wedding parties.
I arrived in the middle of a stressful week, fairly frazzled, and within about five minutes of being ushered into the calm sanctuary of the spa, Gabriele had kneaded the tension from my poor shoulders with a Sonoma Aromatherapy Massage. As well as feeling a warm afterglow which lasted days afterwards, the indulgent Germaine de Capuccini skincare products left even my knackered skin feeling peachy and bright.
There are lots of great packages on offer, such as the half spa day including a 25-minute treatment tailored to you, such as a Walkers Leg Therapy massage or an express Royal Jelly De-Stress Facial. You can enjoy a bento box or afternoon tea and plenty of time to relax in (or alongside) the turquoise pool which is a heavenly haven with a jacuzzi, sauna and aromatherapy room – or hit the gym as well if you haven’t melted into total relaxation by that point. If you have opted for a spa break (check out the autumn package deals) you can then float along the corridor and straight into an immaculate room for a totally restful and comfortable sleep in a luxurious kingsize bed, and you can keep the good vibes going the following morning with the best breakfast in Berkshire.
Strictly Pro Dancer Karen Hauer recently checked in to The HangOut, Donnington Valley’s an al fresco dining grill and chill area where she and star chef Darren made their own pizzas hot & crispy from the oven. The HangOut has stayed abuzz all summer and continues to sizzle into September, under the fairylights. You can settle in (under cover if the heavens open) to relax and enjoy a perfectly mixed cocktail or glass of wine or three, with live music on Saturday evenings. Inside (in the huge cosy beamed Bacchus wine bar and restaurant) or out, the food is of epic feast proportions: I can heartily recommend the Donnington Burger with Ogleshield cheese and the trio of Berkshire sausages with bacon bubble and sticky onion jus. Sunday roasts (12-2.30pm) also earn high praise – and all the winter warmers are sure to raise your spirits even on a cold day.
The staff are amazingly kind and helpful and will help you forget your everyday cares and worries – I felt as though I’d been away somewhere far-off for a few days.
We chat music, heroes and mental health with music industry veteran Barry Ashworth ahead of Mucky Weekender festival in Winchester, 8th & 9th September, plus Dub Pistols’ upcoming UK tour…
Q. Hello Barry! Like us, you love a festival! What’s your best festival memory, and why?
“Playing nearly three festivals a week for over 25 years… that’s a hard one to answer. Rise festival in Victoria Park was pretty special because we had Terry Hall and Lynval Golding from The Specials playing with us and it was the first time they had played together in over 20 years; we played Gangsters and over 100,000 people lost their minds. They went on to say that day was the catalyst for them reforming the band. Last year’s Glastonbury Glade show was pretty special too, it was the biggest crowd we had played to at Glastonbury and the roar from the crowd when we came out was spectacular.”
Q. What’s your first memory of music?
“My mother loved her Motown music, I remember she had a white record player and would play and sing along to all her favourite Motown tunes all day long; she loved singing.”
Q. Who was your hero growing up? And now?
“I had a few to be honest, I’m a mad Liverpool fan so Kenny Dalglish was my idol. Musically I had a few: Terry Hall from The Specials, Joe Strummer from The Clash and Paul Weller the Modfather, all have had a massive influence on me musically.”
Q. Really tough one but what’s your favourite tune? (Or top three!)
“Almost impossible to answer this one as it changes daily but going with the above answer; The Specials – Ghost Town, The Clash – Straight To Hell and The Style Council – Shout to the Top.“
Q. Who are you most looking forward to seeing, hearing and hanging out with at Mucky Weekender this year?
“Everyone on the line up – that’s why I’ve booked them all!”
Q. How do you take good care of your mental health?
“I’m very fortunate to live in a small village called Reed in Hertfordshire. Walking is so good for your mental health. Being in the fresh air in the middle of the countryside makes me very happy.”
Q. Have you enjoyed any other great festivals this summer?
“Festival season is always my favourite time of the year. Every festival is unique and brings its own vibe but there are three that I feel are very close to my heart and have a special connection to. Beat-herder, in my opinion, is the best independent festival in the country. We have such a strong connection with the crowd there and the love that we get from them is something I will never take for granted. The amount of work and attention to detail that goes into Beat-herder is unique. The venues they build are off the scale and if I were handing out awards for best festivals in the UK this would be a winner. In Europe nothing comes close to Electric Castle in Romania. The production is next level and again the relationship we have built up from being part of the festival from the beginning is one of mutual love and respect. The noise, the energy and the vibe that comes when we walk-out leaves me quite emotional. So, I have covered the UK and Europe, but it is always festival season somewhere in the world and my next mention is halfway around the world in New Zealand. Splore Festival is another one of my spiritual homes. A better location for a festival is hard to find. Set on a beach in Tapapakanga National regional park, its ethos, its connection to the people and the traditions of the Māori land it is on, make it truly unique and one of a kind. I feel blessed to have been part of it over the years and again for the bond we have built with its crowd. For me, these festivals stand out against the others due to the care and pride the production team have for what they have created and for the experience they are providing.”
Q. What is the best feedback you’ve ever had from Mucky Weekender?
“We have people coming to the festival on their own and leave with a tribe of new friends. This always blows me away. For customers to feel safe to arrive alone because they know the vibe and crowd are so friendly. We have a lady who’s traveling solo all the way from Australia. Her first year coming to Mucky was 2022 and she’s made friends that will last a lifetime that she’s meeting up with again this year. I think this is such a huge compliment for the environment we’ve created. It’s incredible how many people are traveling from different parts of the globe to join us.”
Q. What else is on the horizon for you over the next few months?
“Rest, if only I could relax! The Dub Pistols have recently released a new album called Frontline on my own label Cyclone Records. It went to number 3 in the UK charts. There is a stack of remixes due for release from the likes of Don Letts, Guadi, The Allergies, Klue and a host of others. We have a winter UK tour lined up and I am already working on my next album with The Freestylers. Oh, and a documentary called what could possibly go wrong. The history of The Dub Pistols. It’s a rock n roll story of every band and a cautionary tale of what not to do to make it in the music industry!”
Q. Finally, if you could make one wish for the world, what would it be?
“It is cheesy but I am a socialist. I would like to see peace, love and unity throughout the world. A world where everyone is given a fair chance and a decent existence. A world in which we care less for ourselves and more for others.”
Mucky Weekender, named after one of the Dub Pistols’ bestselling singles Mucky Weekend, covers all genres across four stages at Vicarage Farm with an intergalactic theme this year. See you at the front! For info about Dub Pistols’ long awaited album Frontline visit dubpistolsmusic.co.uk/category/new-releases/. A Dub Pistols documentary will be out soon.
Another September beckons and we hope our education special will help you, whether you’re a parent to a SEN child, would like advice about bursaries, want to make maths fun or continue learning whatever your age
Worried about a child’s progress in school? Learning differences consultant, former head teacher & SEN editor Mary Mountstephen offers parents some tips on being proactive
There’s always that moment when, as a parent, those doubts in the back of your mind start to assert themselves more loudly. Or perhaps a well-meaning family member or friend might make comments that add to your anxiety levels.
These might include: “Why isn’t he doing as well as his brother?”, “She should have started talking by now, surely?”, “That’s just not right, he needs to stop having tantrums”. Sound familiar?
Each child is unique. They often develop faster in some areas than in others and comparison with their brothers, sisters, cousins or classmates can be unhelpful and unwelcome. Depending on the type of concern and the child’s age, there are organisations and professionals to support you, such as your GP, your child’s setting (early years/ primary etc). The following information is intended to provide you with some basic tips, plus information about other sources of support and advice which are cost-effective or free.
Types of SEN
There are four types of SEN: communication and interaction needs, cognition and learning difficulties, social, emotional and mental health difficulties and sensory and physical needs. Some children and young people may have SEN in more than one of these areas, but for most children with SEN, they will attend their local, mainstream school.
Don’t delay if you have concerns
There is a significant body of research that confirms the importance of early intervention when a child’s progress is causing concern. Looking back some years, school often operated a ‘wait and see’ protocol when being asked about delays in progress. Children with a dyslexic profile, for example, would possibly only be monitored until the age of seven, as it was a prevailing belief that they could not be identified before then, whereas current research indicates that this is possible from a much earlier age.
Be persistent but polite when communicating with the setting/ school
Parents and carers are not always confident in advocating for their child and in being able to communicate their concerns articulately. They may have had difficulties themselves at school, and this can translate into feeling nervous or hesitant in expressing their ‘gut feelings’, have known parents, on occasion, to become quite emotional or even aggressive if they feel they are not being listened to. So it’s a good idea to be prepared in advance.
Gather evidence using checklists
There are many checklists of child development, depending on where the concern(s) lie. If your child is in a school or early years setting, advice about this may be available. If not, carry on reading!
Check out national charities & organisations
A quick internet search will produce a long list of organisations and many of these can offer free support and resources. The difficulty here, as with self-diagnosis of symptoms, that you may become convinced your child has more complex needs than they might have. For that reason, it’s a good idea to communicate your concerns with the school at an early stage and be-guided by them.
Contact trusted sources
Finding trustworthy online support can be confusing for parents; the sheer volume of advice can be overwhelming and knowing who to trust can be daunting. For the last two years I’ve been working with SENDStation. I provide training about dyslexia and auditory processing difficulties. The company’s mission has always been to provide great quality learning that’s affordable and accessible. Their online courses are live and cost less than £15, including hand-out and certificate. The team cover 40 different sessions from dyslexia to toilet training. Visit SEND-Station. I’d also like to recommend a free newsletter from SEN magazine. You could also point both of these resources in the direction of the school! Please visit Mailing List Subscription – SEN Magazine to sign up.
Mary Mountstephen is a learning differences specialist with a background of working in a range of school settings, including roles as headteacher of two primary schools, and as an SEND specialist in the independent sector. She provides school training, individual assessments and online training. Find out more at Learning Differences| Mary Mountstephen and follow @M_Mountstephen on Twitter.
We chat to author Jacqueline Wilson, 77, who is one of the stars of Henley Literary Festival, 30th September to 7th October
Q. Hello. I hope you’re well?
“I’m well, feeling good and very much looking forward to coming to the Henley Literary Festival.”
Q. Did you enjoy school?
“I liked it at my primary school. I had a marvellous gentle teacher when I was in Year Five called Mr Townsend. He didn’t tease me when I confided that I wanted to be a writer when I was grown up. He actively encouraged me and was very sweet when I showed him my first long story. I wasn’t quite as keen on my secondary school, though I enjoyed my English lessons and much appreciated the friendly art teacher who taught me a lot about paintings in the National Gallery.”
Q. What was your favourite book when you were a child? And who’s your favourite author now?
“I loved Ballet Shoes by Noel Streatfeild, a story about three adopted sisters who go to stage school. I wished I could have ballet lessons myself, but had to make do with dancing round our flat in my pink bedroom slippers, pretending I was a fourth sister. My favourite author is Anne Tyler. I’ve read every single one of her books, and do hope she writes many more.”
Q. Can you tell us about your first book, which I believe you wrote when you were nine, is that right?
“It was only about 15 pages long, but it had all my trademarks: it was about a poor family with a wayward teenage girl of 15, an earnest 12-year-old who loves reading, a 10-year-old who wants to act, nine-year-old identical twins, an anxious six-year-old, and a fierce little sister of four who bosses everyone about!”
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Chef Emily Roux and Lexus have rustled up some posh packed lunches to enjoy in the car or on your next road trip!
Typical packed lunch fare such as pasties, soggy sandwiches and packets of crisps, can be bland and unappetising, so Lexus has teamed up with renowned chef Emily Roux to create some gourmet recipes that are perfect to eat in the car. Emily’s carefully crafted, delicious creations are easy to prepare and perfect if your picnic has been rained off, or if you’re waiting for a ferry or Eurotunnel.
Emily has honed her culinary skills in some of Europe’s most acclaimed restaurants and today is the co-owner of Caractère restaurant in London’s Notting Hill. She has used her expertise to create simple recipes that can add an element of delicacy and luxury to your packed lunch.
Wasabi crab tartlets
Ingredients: • 250g double cream • 70g milk • 5g wasabi powder or paste • 4g salt • Two egg yolks • One whole egg
Other ingredients: • 270g pack of ready-made filo pastry • 20g melted butter (for brushing) • 100g picked crab (white, brown, or mixed according to preference) • Zest of one lemon • Fresh chives, mint leaves, coriander, or other herbs to suit personal taste • Salt, pepper, olive oil
Method:
1. Preheat oven to 165°C fan (325°F/gas mark 4). 2. Brush each layer of filo with melted butter, stacking at least four sheets on top of each other. 3. Press and cut to the dimensions of your tart moulds. 4. Bake each filo stack in the moulds, with pressure on top, for between seven and 10 minutes (or until crispy and golden). To create the weighted pressure, ideally use the same-sized mould inserted one into the other; alternatively, baking beans will do the trick. 5. Leave to cool and lower the oven temperature to 165°C fan (325°F/gas mark 4). 6. Meanwhile, use a handheld blender to blitz all the wasabi cream ingredients together. Pass the mixture through a sieve for a smooth finish. 7. Once the tartlets have completely cooled, pour in the cream mix, filling to halfway. 8. Bake in the oven for a further 15 minutes until the mixture has cooked through and solidified. 9. Leave to cool – the tartlets are designed to be eaten at room temperature. 10. Season the crab to your taste and add any chopped fresh herbs that take your fancy. 11. Top tartlets with seasoned crab.
For a vegetarian alternative, replace the crab with mushrooms or courgette shavings and fresh herbs.
Dark chocolate crinkle cookies
Temperature and timing are very important with this recipe, so it is best to have all the ingredients weighed out before you start.
1. Line two baking trays with baking paper and preheat the oven to 175°C, fan oven (350°F/gas mark 4). 2. Place the butter and chocolate in a basin over a bain marie or a saucepan of gently boiling water, ensuring the bottom of the bowl doesn’t touch the water. Stir occasionally until the mixture is fully melted. 3. Remove the bowl from the heat and set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together the eggs and sugars on medium-high speed, for five minutes. 4. Once the eggs and sugar have been mixing for exactly five minutes, pour in the chocolate mixture and mix for a further minute or so to combine. 5. Meanwhile, mix together the dry ingredients, then add to the mixer bowl, mixing briefly until just combined. 6. Use an ice cream scoop to form the cookies. The batter will be a little on the wet side. Make sure to leave plenty to space between each cookie on the baking tray, as they will spread as they cook. 7. Sprinkle each cookie with a little flaked sea salt before placing into the oven and baking for 12 minutes. The cookies will come out of the oven with a wonderful, crinkled look and a slightly domed shape. They will collapse a little as they cool but this helps form that perfect fudgy centre. 8. Sprinkle on a little sea salt to taste and let the cookies cool for at least 20-30 minutes.
Second Hand September, upcycling furniture and repair cafes are all fabulous ways to fall in love again with something you once cherished, not only will it save you money but you’ll be doing your bit to help save the planet too!
How often have you bought something (often on impulse) got it back home only for it to loiter in the back of your wardrobe unworn for years? It’s probably something we’ve all been guilty of at one time, so this month rather than a) buy it at all or b) leave it lurking unloved, why not get involved in Second Hand September?
Surrey-based Pleese invite you to tuck into a taste of summer with the world’s first frozen cheesecake in a tub
It looks as though summer is going to make another fleeting appearance, so it’s the perfect time to stock up the freezer with sweet treats.
“It’s not ice cream!” screams the lid of Freezecakes which is now available nationwide across Co-op and Waitrose stores. And if you’re looking for a creamier alternative to gelato, the Surrey-based Pleese team have three delumptious soft-serve flavours to tempt you.
I was lucky enough to have a houseful of teenagers to taste the new range, and the scoopy specials won brownie points for being palm oil free (an essential if you love orangutans as much as we do) and made of more than 35% cream cheese.
It was a three-way tie between Butterscotch & Caramel (£5, 350g) with crunchy chocolate biscuit pieces coated in chocolate, Lemon & Raspberry (£5, 350g) (pockets of juicy raspberry sauce and biscuit pieces coated in white chocolate, topped with freeze dried raspberry pieces) and (my personal fave) Double Chocolate (£5, 350g) with those crunchy chocolate biscuit pieces coated in chocolate, topped with chocolate flakes.
If you fancy going down a dessert rabbithole, hop on to the @Pleese (previously Pleesecakes) and @freezecakes Insta page to enjoy mesmerising short videos and recipe shorts, as loved by Joe Wicks, Olly Murs and Holly Willoughby…
If you fancy going down a dessert rabbithole, hop on to the @Pleese (previously Pleesecakes) and @freezecakes Insta page to enjoy mesmerising short videos and recipe shorts, as loved by Joe Wicks, Olly Murs and Holly Willoughby…
Tomono Davies brings an array of Japanese joy to parties in local kitchens with her sushi masterclasses. She’s on a roll – here’s why you should book in for a masterclass or work party
Lockdown was difficult for all, not least Tomono Davies who was unable to fly home to visit her family in her native Kochi, a sunny city between Shikoku Mountain and the Pacific Ocean. However, during this homesick period she put all of her energy into her business, which has really taken off over the past three years.
“I’m amazed how successful the parties have become,” she says in her own spotless kitchen in High Wycombe. “I tried to be strong and focusing on work really helped me.”
Since moving to the UK 26 years ago, Tomono has missed Japanese food hugely, especially sushi. Back then, Japanese ingredients had not widely crossed the oceans, so she began making it with local ingredients and without special equipment.
“Sushi is not typically made at home in Japan,” says Tomono. “It is something we used to have as take-away for celebrations or enjoy out at restaurants. But when you miss something and know there’s no access to what you miss, people will always invent something new! After many failed, I found keeping it simple and authentic is the best way.”
With Tomono Sushi Party she takes hands-on masterclasses, demonstrations and parties to workplaces and homes across south Bucks and north London. From rolling maki to forming little gunkan boats or hand-shaping temari, guests have given great feedback, which has helped her business grow by word of mouth.
“My mother used to wake up at 5am to cook us a fresh breakfast – obento – and if she had 30 minutes to spare in her lunch break, she would drive home to start preparing for dinner,” adds Tomono. “I never appreciated my mother’s passion for food but now I am a mother myself, this is a tradition I would definitely like to pass on to the next generation.
“Some people might find sushi intimidating, but it’s not; it’s 90% rice, after all. What’s been lovely is helping all the generations enjoy food and new flavours together and it’s great fun. I bring all the kit and also my kimonos which people love to try on for photos.”
“What’s been lovely is helping all the generations enjoy food and new flavours together.”
For those who aren’t fish-lovers, Tomono can offer delicious alternatives such as teriyaki beef and she caters for all dietary requirements such as vegan, kosher and even gluten-free.
Enjoy a Sushi Making Workshop at The Front Room in High Wycombe, 1-2.30pm, on Saturday, 9th September.
At the moment, Tomono is offering an earlybird offer for a corporate event for booking for Monday-Wednesday in November and December.
Round and About Magazine’s wine columnist Giles Luckett rediscovers the amazing wines of France’s Roussillon, and finds value and excellence in equal measure
The Roussillon Revolution
Wine surprises and buses, as the old saying goes. You wait six years for one to come along and then two turn up in two months. OK, I’m paraphrasing slightly, but six years after my revelatory tour of Australia and weeks after my eye-opening trip to Portugal, I discover my knowledge of the wines of the Roussillon is about as contemporary as my daughter’s 2012 Frozen calendar.
I was introduced to the wines of the Roussillon in the early 1990s. Bordeaux Direct (Laithwaites) were early importers of their red wines which were generally powerful, slightly rustic affairs with a distinct wild herb tang. They were big, bold, and brilliant value, but were about as serious as my daughter’s calendar – she needs to let it go!
A recent tasting showed me how much things have changed. While the brilliance and the value have remained, the styles of wine on offer have become as dazzlingly complex as the slopes on which they’re grown.
The Wines of The Roussillon
The Roussillon lies in the extreme southwest of France, next to the border with Spain. I could spend hours talking about the soil structures (mental note: YouTube channel on soil structures. Influencer fame and fortune here I come) but it’s mainly clay/limestone, schist and gravel. The climate is warm, but the altitude creates a number of microclimates. This combination means it can provide an ideal home to a wide range of high-quality grapes.
For the longest time, Roussillon was best known for its fortified wines, the vin doux naturel. Lusciously sweet, cherry and chocolate-flavoured reds such as Banyuls, and apricot and honey-toned whites like Muscat de Rivesaltes enjoyed a reputation as high as that of Port.
Great as these wines are, the market is limited, and as far back as the 1980s speculation was rife as to what Roussillon could do with table wines. And just like the revolution that’s swept the wines of the Douro Valley, years of experimentation with sites and varieties are now paying substantial dividends, as the following wines demonstrate.
The Top 10 Wines of The Roussillon
When I last looked at Roussillon’s wines, they were almost exclusively red. Today you can find great rosé and white wines too. Take the Bila-Haut Blanc (Laithwaites £11.99) for example. Bila-Haut is leading Rhône producer Chapoutier’s home in the Roussillon and their expertise shines through. The Bila-Haut Blanc is mainly composed of Rhône grapes Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, and Marsanne. Fragrant with floral notes and citrus on the nose, on the palate there’s grapefruit, and white peach, before the smoky, mineral-laden finish.
Another wine that offers freshness, with complexity is the Les Sorcières du Clos des Fées Blanc 2022 (Yapp Brothers £17.25). This contains some Vermentino, which adds a green apple and lime touch along with a pinch of salt. I had this with grilled sardines, but I can see it working wonderfully well with poultry or creamy risotto.
If you’re looking for a wine that’s zesty enough to refresh, but textured and complex enough to satisfy, then take a look at the Res Fortes Roussillon 2019 (Res Fortes £16). Bold winemaking – they press whole bunches and use Grenache Gris (which isn’t in the least bit grey, by the way) – and some bottle age makes for outstanding wines. Pears, melon, red apple, and greengage, come together with a yeasty, mineral finish to give a wine of precision and depth. Were this from the Rhône you’d be looking at £50+ a bottle.
Encountering great rosé producers. Yet again though I was struck not just by the quality but the value. Take the Domaine Lafage Cotes du Roussillon Miraflors Rose (All About Wine £13.75). The elegant line of the bottle is reflected in the wine inside. Joyously fresh, pure red berries lead the velvet-footed charge, followed by notes of green grapes, watermelon, and raw blackberries before a lovely rush of peaches comes in at the end.
At the other end of the rosé scale, we have the L’Effet Papillon (Highbury Vintners £14.50). This is made by the Rivesaltes co-operative, so right in the heart of fortified country, and they seem to be on a mission to make powerful wines. This is an intense wine whose pure and precise strawberry fruit conveys a feeling of power and concentration. Spicy, tangy, and well-balanced, this would be brilliant with smoked trout, lemon chicken, or roasted guineafowl.
And so to reds. I’ve mentioned Bila-Haut already, and I make no apology for recommending their red too. The Bila-Haut Rouge (The Surrey Wine Cellar £12.95) shows how Roussillon’s wines are distinct and not mere ‘me-too’ Rhône wannabes. While plump and juicy, there’s a light-touch feel to the dark fruit. It’s medium-bodied and has an easy-to-love character that’s often missing in Rhônes, and the finish – a lovely mix of plums, cherries, and spiced berries – adds a further lift. While this is great with red meats, I think it’s even better with tomato or cheesy pasta.
I have to say that my next choice did feel like a blast from the past. The Mas Becha ‘Classique’ Rouge (Great Wines Direct, £19.72) had a ‘garrigue’ (wild herbs to you and me) taste to it. This full-throttled Grenache is packed to the gunnels with cherries, prunes, chocolate, and herbs, but again there’s a lift of red berry acidity that stops it from becoming plodding and one-dimensional. This would be superb with lamb or falafel – anything that needs a little juiciness to bring it to life.
I’ve mentioned the value of the Roussillon several times in this piece, an attribute that’s embodied in the Côtes du Roussillon Héritage Rouge, Château de Corneilla 2020 (The Wine Society £9.95). For under a tenner, you get a magnificently big, plush, old-school red that delivers the goods by the lorry load. Syrah-based, this is inky, spicy, and loaded with lip-staining blackberry, damson, and cherry fruit with interest added by a seasoning of black pepper and mint. Serve this one with your favourite strong cheeses.
Collioure has always been a great source of affordable, high-quality wines. Cooled by Mediterranean sea breezes and with a high percentage of schist – medium-grained metamorphic rock showing pronounced schistosity as my YouTube subscribers will know. This allows for the production of elegant, yet well-structured wines that are capable of ageing well. The Les Clos de Paulilles Collioure Rouge 2021 (Majestic £14.99) is a fine example of this. A spicy, blackcurrant-tined wine with plenty of black cherry, strawberry jam, and plum notes, it’s a lot of wine for the wine money and will partner red meats and full-flavoured cheeses.
I’ll finish with a flourish with the Mas de Montagnes Roussillon Villages (Waitrose £12.49). This typifies the newer style of fresher, refined Roussillon wines. A marriage of Syrah and Grenache, it offers black cherry, blueberry, and mulberry fruit overlain with touches of mint and almond, while the finish offers peppercorns and raspberries that add a savoury touch.
The Roussillon Reinvention
The Roussillon is another example of a region that’s successfully reinventing itself. Worldwide there’s demand for lighter, more food-friendly wines, and regions like the Roussillon are well-placed to take advantage of this. If you’re looking for wines that offer excellence, excitement, and value, then I recommend you look to the Roussillon and taste tomorrow’s superstars today.
Next time out, I’ll do a deep dive into the wonderful wines from Yalumba.
