Best New Zealand wines for 2023

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Discover more about New Zealand wines as Round and About’s columnist, Giles Luckett, shows there’s more to offer from the islands than Sauvignon Blanc…

Hello. I’ve been on a voyage of wine (re)discovery over the past few weeks. As you may remember from school geography lessons, the world is a pretty big place. And amongst this pretty big place are an increasing number of wine-producing countries. So many in fact that even the hardest drinking, sorry, tasting, wine professional can miss things. Regions you once followed closely slip into the periphery only to draw you back with a wine so startlingly good that you discover it anew. This is what happened to me a few weeks back when I was asked to sample some new-style New Zealand wines, including an unexpected and breathtaking Syrah, which has prompted me to create this top ten New Zealand wines list.

New Zealand: A Brief History of Wine

When I joined the wine trade in 1993, New Zealand wines – particularly Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc – were everywhere. Cloudy Bay had launched in 1985 and its full-throttle, super-intense “cat’s pee on a gooseberry bush” style led Oz Clarke to deem it the world’s best Sauvignon. The drew everyone’s attention to the wines of this cool climate land. Soon other regions on the North and South Island became known, and everything from buttery Chardonnay to strikingly elegant Pinot Noir became the biggest things from New Zealand to hit the UK since Crowded House’s Woodface.

Sauvignon ruled the roost. Harrods sold Cloudy Bay on allocation to a (very) select few, and other leading estates such as Wairau River, Esk Valley, Villa Maria and Te Mata also became hugely sought-after. Inevitably, over time tastes and fashion changed, and just as Australia had its ABC (anything but Chardonnay) backlash, so New Zealand saw the rise of the ABS (anything but Sauvignon) league.

A fire had been lit, however, and while Sauvignon’s star burned less brightly, the amazing possibilities of this emerging wine nation weren’t going to be left to wither on the vine. New varieties were planted, site selection explored, and winemaking innovation deployed to produce a crop of wines that were as exciting as those early Sauvignons.

My recent reappraisal of New Zealand wines proved revelatory, and here are my top ten New Zealand wines. And you know what, there’s not a varietal Sauvignon in sight…

Top Ten New Style New Zealand Wines

First up, a Riesling, the Adnams Marlborough Riesling (Adnams £9.99). Marlborough is a cool climate area on the northern tip of the South Island. While it’s best known for its Sauvignons, it’s varieties like Riesling that are now getting the wine world juiced up. Adnams’ is made in the European style and weighs in at just 9% alcohol. This leaves some residual sugar which serves to balance the bright, lemon and lime acidity, and green apple and white currant fruit. Delicious on its own, it’s even better with poultry, white fish, or seafood.

Staying on the South Island, but moving to the edge of the Tasman Bay we have the small region of Nelson. This is another home for vines that like cooler climes and it’s given us the Waimea Estates Grüner Veltiner 2021 (Majestic £10.99). Gruner is Austria’s most acclaimed white grape, one that’s finding flavour in California, Australia and, excitingly, here in New Zealand. This too has been left with a little residual, and here it gives a tropical fruit tone with a tangy, fresh, rhubarb and lemon finish. I thought this was lovely on its own, but I can see it being superb with oriental dishes.

My next pick is the Esk Valley Artisanal Albariño (Noble Grape £12.99). Hawkes Bay lies to the east of the North Island and is best known for its red blends – if you ever get offered a glass of Esk Valley’s Terraces (£95), a blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec grab it, (and the bottle if you can). It’s amazing and worth every penny. Esk Valley’s Albariño is pretty special too. While Albariño is most closely associated with Portugal and Spain where it’s favoured in celebrated seafood restaurants, it’s made itself at home in New Zealand. Classically styled, it has masses of freshness, is clean as a freshly polished whistle and boasts flavours that range from grapefruit and lemon to melon and stone fruit with a yeasty, savouriness to the finish. A superb aperitif, this is a wine with hidden depths. Give it a couple of hours open and it will bring out the best in creamy cheese dishes and poultry such as guinea fowl as a peachy, apricot tone adds depth and complexity.

And so we come to the first two rosé wines. The first is the Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc Blush (Asda £8). I said there was no varietal Sauvignon and the addition of Merlot to give this colour has saved my blushes. While there’s a lot of Sauvignon character, it’s softened and rounded out by the plum, rose petal and cherry notes from the Merlot. Beautifully coloured, bright, and bursting with energy, this is great fun and was made for good company in the sunshine.

While Cloudy Bay’s Sauvignon always got the plaudits (for the record I think the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are better wines), the real star in Cloudy Bay’s firmament is the Cloudy Bay Pelorus Rosé (Majestic £23.99). New Zealand has perfect conditions for making world-beating sparkling wines and this is a world-class wine. Pale salmon with amber lowlights, the nose is a complex, evolved mix of strawberries, raspberries, and red cherries, cut with citrus, creamy yeast, and a hint of cranberry spice. It’s a class act. One that goes surprisingly well with food including fish pate, salmon or lamb.

And so to the reds.

No article on the best New Zealand red wines would be complete without Pinot Noir, as Pinot Noir has a mystique about it. The best New Zealand Pinots are up there with the best of the New World, and while they share some characteristics with other regions such as Australia’s Mornington Peninsula or South Africa’s Western Cape, theirs tend to be more European in style.

Take the Villa Maria Private Bin Pinot Noir (Noble Green £14.50). This is a Pinot worth getting excited about. Mid-purple, with a nose of sun-warmed fruits of the forest with raspberries and creamy oak, it’s a cheery, inviting opening. In the mouth, there are more black and red fruits wrapped in a soft, velvety body with a hint of just-ripe red cherry keeping it fresh. At first, it’s quite sedate, but as you sip so the flavour builds and it offers a persistent shot of very pure, spiced berry fruit with a citrusy edge that’s beguiling. Try it with red meat or tomato-based dishes.

With its marginal climate and free-draining soils, many regions in New Zealand have successfully produced Bordeaux blends. A fine example is Pask’s Gimblett Road Cabernet Merlot Malbec (House of Townend £14.95). Hailing from the Gimblett Gravels wine district in Hawke’s Bay (which isn’t technically a district but a brand – I know, because wine really needs to be made more complicated) the gravel, silts and clay soils force vines to dig deep for nutrients as they do in Bordeaux. The result is a deeply coloured wine with a nose of cassis, green peppers and blueberries. The palate is fresh-tasting and elegant, with abundant black berry fruits offsets by flavours of vanilla, plums, and a savoury, smoked red berry freshness.

I’ll stay in Hawkes Bay for my next recommendation, the Esk Valley Artisanal Syrah (Noble Green Wines £19.50) though this could hardly be more different. There are relatively few Syrah plantings in New Zealand the quality can be showstopping. Esk Valley’s brilliance shines through, with a wine that offers a bevy of peppered red fruits, black cherries, oriental spices, violets, vanilla, crushed nuts and a lift of berry acidity. This is a glorious take on Syrah, one that is drinking well now but which has the structure and fruit to age and develop.

Next is another Pinot, the Adnams Central Otago Pinot Noir (Adnams £19.99). Central Otago used to be the world’s most southerly wine region – that’s now in Argentina, though ask me in 6 months and it will probably be somewhere else! Central Otago is a great, if challenging, place to make any wine, but trying to tame Pinot here must be like herding feral cats. It is worth the effort though. The Adnams offers a delightful blend of red cherry and strawberry fruit with highlights of cranberry and a suggestion of peppermint tea. Medium-bodied, it’s silky with a creamy vanilla note, and the persistence of flavour makes it feel bigger than it is while remaining elegant and precise.

I’ll finish with another leftfield wine, the Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Tempranillo (Simply Wines Direct £18.99). For the longest time, Tempranillo was only found in Spain. Despite its quality, it remained in Spain, rather like Sangiovese in Italy. Recently I’ve seen it popping up California, Argentina and now here. Plantings are few, but the potential is phenomenal. Juicy, spicy, and packed with bramble, plum, mulberry, and citrus peel fruit notes, there’s more than a whiff of Rioja about this. On the palate, it reveals itself to be very much its own wine, though. Opulently deep, it flashes between the sweet and savoury as blackberries vie with chocolate, liquorice and herbs. This is a must-try with pan-fried liver or strong hard cheeses.

Well, I hope my top ten new-style New Zealand Wines will inspire you to explore New Zealand’s fascinating and fast-evolving wine scene.

Next time I’ll look at another region that’s challenging traditional perceptions as I take a tour of France’s Roussillon.

More soon…
Giles

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Delicious grill deal at M&S

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M&S are here to feed your BBQ obsession with their three for £12 grill deal of bangers, burgers and kebabs

Do you love BBQs? Are you searching to find new dishes to impress your friends and family? M&S are here to the rescue. With their new three for £12 grill deal, you can make both your friends and your taste buds happy!

Not only do M&S offer such a banging deal, but they also offer a new range of bangers, burgers and kebabs, which holds a vast range of flavours. Having a staycation, but fancy a trip to Asia? Try their Asian-style chicken wing kebabs. If Greece is more your style, indulge in their Greek-style pork skewers. Where you are at home or away, M&S grant the opportunity to experience all the flavours from your very own home with their new selection.

Vegan? Don’t fret! They have a very special treat for you! M&S have made sure that there is something for everyone and have officially introduced their iconic posh dogs as a vegan dish as well. Now everyone can enjoy the BBQ together with their new selection, with food requirements posing no threat.

Still craving more flavours after this? Well, M&S still have plenty to please you! Explore their range of sauces to spice up your meals. From Piri Piri Marinade to Buffalo Sauce, they have a number of different sauces perfect for marinating, dipping and drizzling your dishes with, making them even more delicious.

Has this taken your interest? Click here to find out more: Best Ever BBQ.

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Best wines for summer barbecues

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Discover the best barbecue wines for the summer. Round & About’s Magazine’s wine columnist Giles Luckett shares his red, white and rose recommendations

Hello. The great British Summer wouldn’t be the same without the great British barbecue. Sociable, affordable, and fun, they’re a great excuse for an alfresco glass of wine or two. But which ones? Barbecued food is one of the trickier food and wine matches. OK, it’s not as tricky as mutton vindaloo (Merlot, by the way. My fiery food-loving friend swears by it), but it presents challenges. The combination of fish, fowl, flavourings and flame all need to be considered. Traditionally bigger the better was the approach, but with chefs such as double Michelin star winner Tom Kerridge taking barbecuing seriously, here are some equally serious selections for your summer’s alfresco dining.

Let’s begin in a civilised fashion with a fizz. Well, two, actually – you can never have too much fizz, that’s my motto. The first is the Villa Maria Sparkling Cuvée Brut (Sainsbury’s on offer at £11 down from £14). I’ve been a big fan of Villa Maria’s wines since the late 1990s, but I’d not come across this until recently. A blend of mainly Chardonnay with some Pinot Noir, it offers New World joy with Old World complexity. Golden in colour and with a nose of apple crumble, the soft, textured palate offers melon, peaches, and pears and a touch of tropical fruit and honey. It’s a delightful solo sipper, but it has the weight and character to partner with seafood or white fish.

My second recommendation comes straight out of the Bonza Barbie Book! (Cliché Publications £9.99), it’s the Bleasdale Langhorne Creek Sparkling Shiraz (the Wine Society £12.95). Good sparkling Shiraz is one of the wine world’s great oddities. A hefty, moderately acidic, thick-skinned peppery grape should not make good fizz, but this is one of those so wrong its right wines. The Bleasdale has a lovely purple colour crowned by pink foam. The nose is a riot of crushed blackcurrants, with peppery mint notes in the background. For me, it was love at first sip, as raspberries, chocolate, and yeast offset the sweetly toned, spicy blackberry fruits. Good on its own, it’s amazing with honey mustard chicken.

And so on to the whiter side of life. Whites and barbecued food can be tricky. Too much new oak and your mouth can feel like you’ve smoked a Woodbine; too little body and it gets drowned out; too much acidity and it can taste harsh and sour. So, what to serve…?

Well, you can start with a white Rioja. White Rioja is one of the great unsung heroes of the wine world. Take the Cune Barrel Fermented Rioja (Waitrose £7.99 on offer down from £9.99 (still a bargain at £9.99)). This is at once creamy and luxurious yet clean and crisp. No, I’ve no idea how they manage it, I’m just glad they do. It offers masses of red apple, apricot and grape fruit with undertones of vanilla, honey and crushed nuts before a lemony finish sweeps in. This is a great glassful that will stand up to barbecued white meats or fish while being equally at home on its own.

Alternatively, why not try a Riesling? Something like the Trimbach 2019 (West End Wines £19.50). Despite its appearance, name, grape and historical-geographic alignment (best not open the Treaty of Versailles debate here) this is from Frances’ Alsace. Trimbach has been making wine since 1626, and I have to say they’ve really got the hang of it. Elegance, purity, and intensity are the watchwords here. The bouquet melds white berries, blossom, citrus, and a hint of honey, while the palate offers green apples and white currants before pears, grapefruit, and minerals come in at the finish. Medium-bodied, but with such dazzling persistence, this is sublime with fish, white meats, and green salads.

A pause for a rosé thought. I’ve always found rosé to be good with barbecued fish, seafood, and white meats, but most struggle to match smoky red meats. I’ve tried newer styles of rosé that put the emphasis on power and while they work to an extent, the lower acidity means something vital is lost. A wine that manages to match all grilled foods with effortless aplomb is the Muga Rosado (Waitrose £10.99). Pretty as a pink picture, this is an upfront style of rosé with juicy citrus mingling with red berries, apricots and cranberries.

My first red is the Gaia Red Blend 2019 (Vintage Roots £17.95), which is another clever conjuring trick of a wine. An intriguing blend of Argentinean Malbec, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, its inky blue-black colour and nose of super-ripe smoked black berries, cherries, coffee, and prunes give you an impression of all-out power. When you taste it, however, you find balance, harmony, and a lightness of touch. While the juicy Malbec black and blueberry tones lead the charge, there are fruits of the forest, mint, warm spices, and a lovely floral lift that make it feel poised and precise. I had this with steak – it was a perfect foil – but it would be just as good with roasted veg with garlic, grilled halloumi, or blackened peppers stuffed with couscous.

My next recommendation is a stone-cold classic – though serve it at room temperature for best results. It’s the Journey’s End V5 Cabernet Franc (Ocado £18). This was my first encounter with a South African Cabernet Franc. In fact, it was my first encounter with a varietal Cabernet Franc in years. Too often, I find the leafy blackcurrant tone rather green and sour. This had none of that. Very deeply coloured, on opening the nose offered cassis, peppers and black cherries with a lovely leafy herb note. Full-bodied yet fresh, it offers everything from brambles and cherries to smoky vanilla, graphite, star anise and plums. An hour open and exuberance turned to subtlety, and flavours of chocolate and strawberry came through. I had it with a heavily peppered steak, and it was excellent. The juiciness and the wine’s dry tannins complimented the food perfectly.

And finally, something for the adventurous amongst you. If you’re the sort of person who does quail piri piri or slaps a lobster on the grill (I’m free that evening, by the way) then the Au Bon Climat Santa Maria 2021 Pinot Noir (Berry Bros. & Rudd £31) is for you. This last vintage of the founder and Californian wine pioneer Jim Clendenen is a suitably fitting tribute to a man who did more for American Pinot and Chardonnay than anyone else. Gorgeous nose of red and black berries, roses, and cocktail cherries with a touch of menthol, the palate is tightly packed with strawberry, blackberry, black cherry and vanilla notes, that are lent further complexity by meaty tones, and a savoury edge. The bright acidity means it will happily partner fish, foul, or flesh, but make sure you give it a couple of hours open.

“The bright acidity means it will happily partner fish, foul, or flesh.”

Well, I’m off to fire up the grill – those unami mushroom burgers won’t burn, I mean cook, themselves.

Next time I’ll take a look at the wines of New Zealand – surprises are in store…

More soon,
Giles

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Grill seekers! Tom Kerridge barbecue recipes 

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We’re serving up two summer sizzlers from Tom Kerridge’s Outdoor Cooking, published by Bloomsbury with photographs © Cristian Barnett

Ultimate hot dog (serves four)

These hot dogs are based on everyone’s favourite Christmas side: pigs in blankets. Like Christmas trees, hot dogs are thought to originate in Germany, so I’ve added a bit of curry powder, German mustard and Bavarian cheese as a nod to that. Great to cook outside on a cold day!

Ingredients:

Barbecue burnt onions
• 2 large onions, finely sliced
• 3 tbsp vegetable oil

Pigs in blankets
• 4 jumbo sausages
• 2 heaped tsp mild curry powder
• 12 rashers of streaky bacon

German mustard mayo
• 100g thick mayonnaise
• 40g German mustard
• 3 tsp finely chopped shallot
• 10 cornichons, finely sliced
• 2 tbsp finely chopped dill
• salt and freshly ground black pepper

To assemble
• 4 long hot dog rolls
• 8 thick slices of smoked Bavarian cheese
• 8 large slices of dill pickle
• A bunch of spring onions, green part only, finely sliced

Method:

1. To cook the onions, place a cast-iron pan on the hot barbecue and add the oil. When it is hot, add the onions with a generous pinch of salt. Stir well and cook for about 20 minutes until softened, dark and caramelised.
2. Meanwhile, prepare the sausages. Poke a metal skewer through the length of each sausage and lay the skewers on a tray. Season with the curry powder, trying to get an even coating all over the sausages. Wrap each one in bacon, using 3 rashers per sausage, and secure the bacon with a couple of cocktail sticks.
3. Lay the bacon-wrapped sausages on the hot barbecue and cook for about 10 minutes, turning every minute or two. While they are on the barbecue, mix the German mustard mayo ingredients together in a bowl, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste; set aside until needed.
4. Once the sausage are cooked through, lift them off the barbecue and place on a tray. Remove the cocktail sticks and metal skewers.
5. To build the hot dogs, slit the rolls open through the top and lay the cheese slices in them. Add the baconwrapped sausages and top with plenty of caramelised onions and the pickle slices.
6. Place the hot dogs on a sturdy baking tray on the barbecue, put the lid on and leave for a minute or two so that the cheese becomes all gooey and melted. Transfer the hot dogs to plate and spoon on the German mayo. Scatter over the spring onions for freshness and serve.

Tandoori fish skewers (makes eight)

Salmon has a high fat content so it stays lovely and moist when cooked over direct heat. It can also be eaten a bit pink in the middle, so you don’t need to worry about undercooking it either. Quick pickled red onions cut through the rich flavours, as well as adding amazing colour.

Ingredients:

• 8 skinless salmon fillets (about 125g)
• 2 large garlic cloves, grated
• 2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, grated
Juice of 1 lime
• 200g Greek yoghurt
• 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
• 1 tsp ground tumeric
• 1 tsp ground cumin
• 2 tsp ground coriander
• 2 tsp sweet smoked paprika
• A little vegetable oil to brush
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Pickled red onions
• 2 small red onions
• 125ml water
• 125ml white wine vinegar
• ½ tsp fennel seeds
• ½ tsp cumin seeds
• 1 tbsp salt
• 2 tbsp sugar

To serve
• Naan bread or roti
• A handful of coriander leaves
• 1 long green chilli, finely sliced
• Lime halves
• Sweet chilli sauce

Method:

1. Prepare your pickled red onions an hour or so ahead. Slice the onions and place in a clean jar or bowl. Put the water, wine vinegar, fennel and cumin seeds, salt and sugar into a small pan over a medium heat and stir until the sugar and salt are fully dissolved. Pour the hot pickling liquor over the onions and leave to cool slightly. Pop the lid on (or cover the bowl) and place in the fridge to pickle.
2. To prepare the salmon, cut each fillet into four equal-sized chunks. Place these in a bowl with the garlic, ginger and lime juice and mix well.
3. In another bowl, mix the yoghurt with the spices and some salt and pepper. Add this spiced yoghurt to the salmon and mix well again. Leave to marinate in a cool place for at least 20 minutes, or up to an hour. Meanwhile, if using wooden skewers soak eight of them in water to avoid scorching on the barbecue.
4. Once marinated, thread the salmon onto your skewers, putting four chunks onto each skewer.
5. Brush the hot barbecue grid lightly with a little oil then lay the skewers on it. Cook for 2-3 minutes on each side until golden brown and lightly charred. Meanwhile, warm the naan or roti on the edge of the barbecue. Once cooked, transfer the skewers to a warm plate.
6. Serve the skewers on the warm naan or roti. Scatter over a little pickled red onion, some coriander and sliced green chilli. Serve with lime halves for squeezing over, and sweet chilli sauce on the side.

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Gordon Ramsay Academy recipes

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We’re serving up summer sensations thanks to Sally Codling, a chef at Gordon Ramsay Academy in Woking

Chef Sally’s pea scotch eggs

Offering a change from the normal sausage meat, these vibrant green, fresh & herby Scotch eggs are vegetarian; perfect for summer picnics or lunches al fresco. Serve warm with a little salt.

Ingredients

• Six eggs
• 1 tsp olive oil
• 3 shallots, finely chopped
• 250g frozen peas
• Few sprigs of mint, leaves picked
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 40g Pecorino cheese, finely grated
• 40g plain flour
• 60g panko breadcrumbs

Method

1. Half fill a medium saucepan with water and bring to the boil. Gently lower in four eggs (saving two for the coating) and cook for six minutes. Lift out using a slotted spoon and transfer to a bowl of iced water to cool completely. Carefully peel the eggs (they will feel soft so be gentle) and set aside.
2. Add the oil to a medium frying pan over a low heat and fry the shallots for 5-8 minutes or until softened. Add the peas and cook until defrosted, about two minutes. Tip into a food processor with the mint leaves and season to taste. Blitz until to a rough paste.
3. Scrape the mixture out into a bowl and mix in the Pecorino. Leave to cool.
4. In the palm of your hand, flatten a heaped tablespoon of the cooled pea mixture. Put a peeled egg in the centre and carefully push up the edges of the mixture to cover and enclose the egg.
5. Carefully roll into a ball and repeat with the other three peeled eggs and pea mixture. Place on a baking tray or plate, loosely cover and chill for 30 minutes to firm up.
6. Put the flour in a shallow dish. Beat the remaining two eggs together in another dish and spread out the breadcrumbs in a third.
7. Roll each ball first in the flour, then the egg, then the breadcrumbs to coat.
8. Preheat a deep-fat fryer to 180°C. Carefully lower in the eggs (you may have to cook one at a time or in batches to stop the oil temperature from dropping too much) and fry for 2-3 minutes or until crispy and golden brown all over. Scoop out onto a plate lined with kitchen paper to drain any excess oil.
9. Sprinkle with a little salt and serve warm.

Full recipe video here: Gordon Ramsay Academy

Printable recipe here: Pea Scotch Eggs Recipe | Gordon Ramsay Academy

Sally Codling’s asparagus, cheese & herb salad

This hearty salad from Chef Sally is packed with fresh herbs to give it tons of flavour, while the addition of punchy blue cheese and bulgur wheat make it feel like a substantial meal in itself. Celebrate new-season asparagus in spring and early summer, or you can use courgettes, green beans, peas or cucumber as alternatives.

Ingredients

• 150g bulghur wheat
• 250ml water
• Sea salt
• 1 bunch of asparagus, trimmed and chopped into 2-3cm lengths
• 75g pumpkin seeds
• Large handful of parsley, roughly chopped
• Large handful of mint, leaves picked and roughly chopped
• 200g Gorgonzola (optional)
• Pecorino, to serve (optional)

For the dressing

• Zest and juice of two lemons
• 100ml olive oil
• 1tsp Dijon mustard
• 1tsp runny honey

Method

1. Add the bulghur wheat and water to a pan, season well with salt and bring to the boil. Cover with a lid and take it off the heat. Leave to sit for 20 minutes.
2. Once all the water has been absorbed, take the lid off the pan and allow to cool.
3. Fill another pan with water, season with salt, bring to the boil and blanch the asparagus for 2 minutes. Drain and set aside.
4. Mix together all the dressing ingredients (in a bowl or pop in jam jar and shake together).
5. Mix the asparagus, pumpkin seeds and chopped herbs through the bulghur wheat.
6. Pour over the dressing and toss well. Crumble over the Gorgonzola in rough chunks and shave a little Pecorino over the top with a vegetable peeler. Ready to serve alongside any barbecue!

Full recipe video here: Gordon Ramsay Academy

Printable recipe here: ASPARAGUS, CHEESE AND HERB SALAD

Chef Sally’s four-ingredient Caipirinha

Ingredients

• One lime
• 2 tbsp caster sugar
• 50ml Cachaça
• Ice cubes

Method

Slice the lime into quarters, add it to your glass with the sugar and Cacahça. Muddle, top with ice and serve!

Full recipe video here: Gordon Ramsay Academy

Printable recipe here: Caipirinha Recipe

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Best Portuguese wines you can buy

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Think you know Portuguese wines? Round & About’s wine columnist says it’s time to drink again as he explores the cool climate wines of the Douro Valley

One of the great joys of wine is discovery. From new vintages of old favourites to wines from regions you’ve not encountered before, there’s always something to arrest your attention.

Every now and again, however, you come across wines that are not merely surprising but revelatory. Such epiphanies don’t come often, but when they do, they can change the way you think about wine.

I had just such an experience last week when I toured Portugal’s Douro Valley. To most wine lovers, the Douro – and Portugal as a whole means one wine, port. That fabled, seemingly immortal fortified wine is one of the world’s greats, but as I discovered on my trip, there’s a lot more to the Douro than just port…

“Fresh, elegant, tangy, and precise.” These are Portuguese tasting notes I’ve published precisely once, just now. Until recently, I thought of Portuguese wines as being big, intense, powerful wines which can take years of cellaring to open up, and that was just the whites. My recent trip showed me how things have changed. A quiet revolution has swept winemaking in this stunning land, and now delicate whites and refreshing, complex reds are popping up all over the upper reaches of the valley.

The Douro Valley: A Hotbed of Cool Climate Wines

So, let’s set the scene. The Douro Valley lies in northern Portugal on schist – I said schist – and granite soils. With steep slopes, plenty of sun and just enough rainfall, it’s an ideal place to produce grapes. Here endeth the Wine Spirit Education Trust (WSET) lesson. What WSET doesn’t make sufficient note of is the region’s altitude. The Douro can rise to over 700m, which provides the cool conditions required to produce fresh, elegant, tangy, and precise (second time) whites, reds, and even ports, as the following show.

The Pedra No. 03 White Port, Quinta Da Pedra Alta NV (N.D. John Wine Merchants £17.95)) tastes as good as it looks. And let’s face it; it looks beautiful. Three firsts for me here. One, being offered a cocktail – Pedra No. 03 with tonic – at a wine tasting. Second, tasting a white port I loved – I’ll be discovering unicorns next. And thirdly, being told by a winemaker not to worry too much about the grape mix. Portugal has more native grapes than any other country in the world – 250+. Chilled on its own, this presents a lovely peach, pear and honeysuckle nose with just a hint of almonds. In the mouth, it’s generous, flavoured with a combination of white berries, grapes, citrus and honey. There is sweetness, but the freshness keeps it balanced and clean. This crowd-pleaser is well-worth seeking out.

As our guide, the amazing Ana took us through our itinerary; a question popped into my head. ‘Does Portugal make sparkling wine?’ Before I could ask, she told me we’d be tasting several, and the Chão da Portela Bruto was my favourite. Traditionally made, it showed a nose of apples, peaches and yeast, while on the palate, there were tropical fruits, red apples, melon, red berries, and creamy yeast. A great fizz for what I suspect will be a great price, given what it goes for in Europe; it’s not imported to the UK yet, but when it does come in, stock up.

What can I say about the Manoella, Douro Branco, Wine & Soul 2020 (Tanners £17.95). Well, fresh, elegant, tangy, and precise are all terms that spring to mind (third time). There’s serious complexity here, too though. Layers of green and white fruits, lemons and a good dose of minerals produce a wine that’s made for seafood or white meats, which has the capacity to age and develop.

Port producers have been at the vanguard of these new Douro wines, and Kopke’s Quinta Sao Luiz Colheita Branco (Ocado £12.50) is excellent. Mid-gold in colour, there’s freshness and depth on the nose with musky, orange blossom notes lifted by grapefruit and lemon. The palate’s weighty, full of yellow plums, peaches and apricots, before a strident fresh acidity comes in at the end.

Stepping up a level, we have Quanta Terra ‘Terra a Terra’ Branco (FESTA £21.50). Lemons, limes, and grapefruit make for a mouth-watering opening before apples, peaches in syrup, and green herbs are added to the mix. This is a seriously good wine which has the power and persistence to go well with everything from pork to hard cheeses.

And so, to the reds. I’ve had hundreds of Portuguese red wines over the years. Generally, they’ve been excellent, on the weighty side, and great value. The 2018 Pedra a Pedra Tinto (Taurus Wines £16.99) shows two of these characteristics, but rather than being weighty; it’s lively, red berry driven and soft as a sigh. Raspberries, strawberries, and redcurrants are all on show, with an undercurrent of spices, herbs, and a touch of creamy vanilla—just the thing for roast lamb or roasted vegetable couscous.

The Pedacos Grande Reserva 2018 is another wine that isn’t imported as yet. This is a great shame as it’s a fantastically food-friendly wine. I tried it with wheelbarrow barbecued steak, and it was a marriage made in heaven, even if the nuptials were conducted in an alley behind the winery. Deep brooding colour, I thought it would be an old school bruiser, but beyond the plum, cooked blackberry, and cherry fruit, there was a vibrancy that was fresh, elegant, oh, and tangy. This has time on its side, and it’ll be fascinating to see it and how the Pedacos winery evolves.

I’ll finish, as so many great meals do, with a vintage port, the Quinta da Pedra Alta 2018 Vintage Port (Bancroft Wines £50.99). Vintage port is a rare wine, the product of a single year’s harvest; it makes up a tiny proportion of the port houses’ production, but it is often the wine they are judged by.

At best, it’s sumptuous, complex, rich, and capable of ageing for decades. What it never is, especially in youth, is fresh, elegant, and tangy. The Quinta da Pedra Alta 2018 is, and it’s all the more joyous for it. Even at this tender age, it offers masses of sweetly toned black fruits, cherries, figs, prunes, and herbs, but it does so in an elegantly balanced way. Whereas most vintage ports are about as wieldy as the Isle of Man when young, you could drink this now with food as table wine. It’s that refined and approachable.

I hope you will give Portuguese wines a try – particularly these new-wave wines from the Douro. They can be sensational and make for fascinating drinking.

Next time out, barbecue reds.

More soon…

Giles

Wine Tourism has been extremely popular over the last few years, either through organised tours or so-called DIY trips. If you’re thinking of doing one, I’d strongly recommend the Douro. The region is stunningly beautiful, the wineries are welcoming and the range of wines on the show is as breath-taking as the views.

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The adventurous pair behind BLACKLION vodka

Round & About

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Food & Recipes

Tim & Tam Spittle tell us about the vodka made from sheep’s milk thanks to their friendly “Black Lions” on the family farm and summer walks, tours and tastings to enjoy

Vodka is typically made from potato, grain, even grapes. But sheep’s milk? This was the challenge Tim & Tan Spittle couldn’t wait to climb.

“Sheaf House Farm, which Tim’s mum and dad bought over 50 years ago, would simply never survive today as a small Cotswold sheep farm if we didn’t also try new things,” explains Tan.

“We’ve always loved vodka. We were thinking of alternative diversifications and thought it needed to be niche. Knowing about cow’s milk vodkas, we wondered why no one had ever done it with sheep’s milk. That’s where it began.”

Milk for the vodka comes from Tim and Tan’s beloved flock of Black Lion sheep, all crossbred from Swiss Valais Blacknose and grazed on what has been the family farm for two generations. BLACKLION was created as a premium sipping vodka using the sugar-rich whey left over after cheese-making that would otherwise go to waste. “Creating BLACKLION took us on a four-year adventure working with amazingly talented and patient local distillers to perfect a vodka we love.” says Tim.

Since launching, the vodka has legions of fans, as well as winning a galaxy of gold star reviews and was featured on Gordon Ramsay’s last episode of Future Food Stars last month (above). “Gordon was incredibly genuine and inspiring,” adds Tan, “and we were just so pleased with his enthusiastic review, after tasting BLACKLION.”

The vodka’s unique and crisp, full-bodied flavour also serves a smooth with a warming aftertaste and a hint of edelweiss.

As for the beautiful sheep behind the creation, this iconic breed originated in the mountains of Switzerland, explaining why the Matterhorn appears on every bottle. “When we came up with the idea, we thought we needed to make our vodka doubly rare; so we created our own breed of sheep the “Black Lions”. A cross between the Swiss Valais Blacknose and a British milking sheep, they have an unbelievable temperament – they’re almost too quiet; too friendly!”

Tim & Tan will start their own farm walks, tours and tastings over the summer, offering guests the chance to meet the sheep and taste the vodka.  “We’ll have a mixologist making different cocktails and it will just be a lovely day out for everyone to enjoy,” adds Tim.

“This part of the world remains to be the one of the most beautiful regions of Great Britain with its rolling hills, spectacular views and majestic towns and villages. It’s also home to some incredibly talented chefs, local producers and craft drink distillers making it a fantastic destination for foodies!”

For more info visit Blacklion Vodka

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Summer sparkling wines worth your time

Round & About

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Food & Recipes

From Cava to Champagne, Tasmania to South Africa, our wine columnist Giles Luckett serves up the 10 best sparkling wines on the market

Summer’s here, and I’m in a sparkling mood. Having had to put the log burner on throughout May (sorry, Greta), the sun’s finally shining, and that calls for fizz.

Such is the effervescence of my disposition that I’ve decided to do a bumper edition and run down my top ten sparkling wines for summer 2023. The following are drawn all over the world and run the gamut of styles from desert-bleached bone dry through to a rich off-dry Champagne that is bottled elegance. They vary in price from “A dangerous third bottle…?” to “I can’t wait for your 50th, so we can have that again” by way of whites and rosés. What unites them is their excellence and how astonishingly versatile this glorious style of wine can be. So, pop pickers, in at number ten…

10. A new entry, all the way from South Africa, it’s the Kleine Zalze Cap Classique (Taylors Fine Wines £21). This is a ripe, soft, fruit-driven wine that’s deliciously satisfying. Mid-gold, the nose boasts tropical fruits, yeast, and a lovely biscuity tone. It’s broad and expansive in the mouth, with big flavours of peach, apricot, guava, and a tang of lemon. A fine solo sipper, it’s a wine where two bottles seem ideal.  Well, that’s what we’ve found on more than one occasion.

9. At number nine, we have a re-issue of a much-loved classic, the Roger Goulart Reserva 2019 (Surrey Wine Cellar £19). This is to bog-standard Cava what a Ferrari 355 is to the family run about. It’s in a different class. Invitingly deep gold colour, the nose is evolved, rich and full of autumn fruits. On the palate, the long bottle age shows again, presenting magnificent tones of apricot, red pear, nectarine, and crushed nuts. The finish is long, mellow, and rounded. This is a serious Cava that’s seriously good. It was made for pairing white meats, and meaty fish such as monkish or heavily smoked salmon.

8. A non-mover at number eight, and another Spanish stunner, it’s the Cune Cava (Majestic £9.99). This is one of those wines that always leaves me smiling. Its consistency is admirable, if unremarkable, given that the amazing CVNE team makes it, and it never disappoints. Pale gold, the nose is a cheerful blend of honeydew melon, pears and grapes with a warm, bready tinge. In the mouth, it’s light to medium-bodied and offers white-skinned fruits backed by rounded yet fresh acidity and a hint of honey — a joyous accompaniment to a summer’s evening.

7. At seven, we’ve got the first of two wines from South Africa’s Graham Beck.  Regular readers of this column will know I’ve long-admired Beck’s back catalogue, but this a new wine that has classic written all over it. It’s the Graham Beck Ultra Brut 2016 (VINUM £19.90). If you like your sparkling wines bone dry but approachable and complex, this is an excellent choice. Bottle-aged for three years prior to release; at this point, this is a fresh, zesty wine with underlying notes of brioche and peach stones. This is better with food at this point – oily fish, white meats, and creamy cheeses are all good – but it will age and mellow out over the next three-to-five years.

6. Another new entry at number six, it’s the Simonnet-Febvre Crémant de Bourgogne (Tesco £15). Crémant de Bourgogne is a sparkling wine made in Burgundy, and like most crémants, they offer great wines that are great value for money. Simonnet-Fevre has been making classic wines in Chablis since 1845, and their class shows through here.  A blend of Chardonnay supported by Pinot Noir, on the nose, there’s plenty of fresh green apple and pear with underlying notes of chalk and a saline touch.  It’s clean and tangy in the mouth but soon develops a peach, yellow plum and vanilla creaminess.  Wonderfully versatile, it’s the perfect aperitif, but it goes equally well with smoked fish or a peppery rocket and goat’s cheese salad.

5. Taking fifth spot is a wine from a land down under; the Jansz Premium Cuvée (Waitrose £18.49). The first time I tasted this tremendous Tasmanian sparkler was at the winery when our press tour was treated to a tasting of 30+ wines, none of which we wanted to spit, few of us did, and the afternoon was a contented, if sleepy, blur.  A recent encounter reminded me of quite how good this wine is.  The bouquet melds white berries, plums, honeysuckle and citrus. At the same time, its generous, multi-layered tones range from autumnal berries to tropical fruits, almonds, and finally, lemon-soaked minerals and smoke.  This is undoubtedly one of the world’s greatest sparkling wines, yet it remains affordable.

4. At number four, Graham’s back, this time with the Graham Beck Blanc de Blancs 2018 (Majestic £18.99). Being produced from 100% Chardonnay from cooler, high-altitude sites, you might expect this to be light, bright and breezy, and as about as substantial as a marshmallow crash helmet, but like me, you’d be wrong. Extended bottle age before release has leant this wine weight and depth. Mid-gold, the nose has a vanilla foam scent to it before fresh flavours of grapefruit and lime come forth. On the palate, the bright green apple, peach, and apricot flavours are powerful yet balanced, and there’s a lovely finish of limes and coconut at the end.

3. This week at three, it’s the Champagne Taittinger’s Nocturne (Waitrose £45), the only ballad in this summer’s chart.  Nocturne is a ‘Sec’ champagne which means it has a much higher level of sweetness – 17.5 grams per litre, versus less than 12 grams for ‘Brut’ (Noel Edmonds never gave this level of detail on Top of the Pops!). The result is a wine that has a luxuriously full, opulent mouthfeel.  Taittinger’s signature peaches in syrup accent take centre stage, and as you sip, the richness builds.  This could quickly become cloying and sickly, but extended ageing and perfectly judged citrusy acidity make it mellow and harmonious.

2. At number two, but only by a whisker, is the Bruno Paillard Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs (Petersham Cellar £60). I bought a parcel of Paillard’s wines earlier this year and have been happily tasting my way through them. While all are outstanding, and the Dosage Zero (Wanderlust Wine £59) almost made it to this list, the Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs is on another level. 100% Chardonnay from 100% rated vineyards, this is everything you could wish for from a blanc de blancs. Fragrant, mixing white flowers, grapes, greengages, and vanilla notes, the complex aromas are a prelude to a wine that is soft, subtle, and astonishingly complex. Baked apple, ripe comice pear, white currant, and grapefruit are wrapped in a creamy, nutty finish. I’ve had this on its own and with foods as diverse as baked white fish, roasted artichokes, and pork medallions, and it’s always performed beautifully.

1. And holding the number one spot, we have a wine that tastes as beautiful as it looks, the Gosset Celebris Extra Brut 2007 (The Champagne Company £119.50). Gosset is a champagne-lovers’ champagne. Made without compromise, all have a steely backbone from their wines not undergoing malolactic fermentation, which converts firmer malic acid into softer latic acid. Not doing “malo” as it’s known, preserves the wine’s purity and extends its life. Gosset’s wines need age – I prefer the non-vintage after a couple of years in bottle – and the Celebris gets a minimum of ten years.  2007 is a wine that offers piercingly beautiful notes of red berries, blackcurrant leaves, lavender honey, yeast and spices in a powerfully refined fashion. Food’s best friend, try this seafood – it’s sublime with lobster (someone was paying), white fish or spring lamb.

Well, that’s it for this edition.  Here’s to a sparkling summer.

Next time out, everything’s coming up rosés…

More soon!

Giles

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Get your GOAT at The Star

Round & About

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Food & Recipes

The GOAT summer pop-up is coming to The Star, Witley

Stop the search for the perfect summer spot, The Star gastropub in Surrey is launching an al fresco pop-up that promises to be nothing but the GOAT.

Firing up in collaboration with Cabrito Goat Meat – a multi award-winning, ethical meat company on a mission to put all the billy goats born into the UK dairy system back into the food chain – The Star’s GOAT pop-up will be serving up delicious, sustainable dishes in the picturesque country pub’s expansive south-facing garden and terrace all summer long.

All your satiating street food favourites are getting the GOAT treatment – from melt-in-the-mouth burgers to moreish tacos and poutines packing a punch. The Star’s chef owners Jamie Dobbin and James Lyon Shaw (whose independent pub group Brucan Pubs was hailed the ‘undeniable winner’ of Best Food Offer at the Publican Awards 2023) are using every morsel of Cabrito’s 100% British goat meat, produced from a sustainable farming system, to its greatest potential.

Settle into your sun-soaked spot and choose between: the Nanny Mac burger with double patty smash; a single patty Billy the Kid burger with American cheese; Pulled Goat Shoulder tacos with red cabbage slaw and chimichurri; and comforting Curry Goat poutine.

Jazzed up jackfruit options are also coming in hot for those who want the GOAT experience without actually, well, eating goat, including the Gone Goat burger with meat-free patties, Spiced Jackfruit tacos and Jackfruit poutine.

Launching on Saturday 10th June, The Star’s GOAT pop-up will run from 12pm till 6pm every Saturday and Sunday throughout the summer. The ultimate way to get your goat.

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BBQ beauties

Karen Neville

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Food & Recipes

With the weather getting warmer there can be nothing better than dining al fresco so try these recipes from Traeger, makers of world-leading premium wood pellet BBQs

Grilled Lobster Tails

Prep time: 10 mins | Cook time: 25 mins | Serves: 2

This is wood-fired flavour, from the sea to your backyard. Simply cut a slit to butterfly the lobster tails, pour the butter mixture, then let our signature heat and smoke do the rest.

Ingredients:

• 2 lobster tails
• 8 Tablespoon butter
• 6 Teaspoon lemon juice
• 1 Teaspoon paprika
• 1/4 Teaspoon garlic salt
• 1/4 Teaspoon Traeger Fin & Feather Rub
• 1/4 Teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tablespoon fresh chopped parsley

Steps:

1. Prepare the lobster by cutting down the middle of the tough shell toward the tail with kitchen shears.

2. Using your fingers, gently pry the meat from the shell, keeping it attached at the base of the tail. Lift the meat so it is resting on top of the split shell (again, keeping it attached at the base of the tail). 

3. Make a slit down the middle of the meat to butterfly it open on top. 

4. Place the lobster tails on a rimmed baking sheet.

5. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Whisk in the lemon juice, paprika, garlic salt, Traeger Fin & Feature Rub, pepper and parsley. 

6. Pour about 1 tablespoon of the butter mixture over each lobster tail. Keep the remaining butter mixture warm. 

7. When ready to cook, set Traeger temperature to 260°C and preheat, lid closed for 15 minutes. 

8. Remove the lobster tails from the baking sheet and arrange them directly on the grill grate. Cook for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the meat is white and opaque. 

9. Transfer lobster tails to a platter and serve with the reserved butter mixture. Enjoy! 

Roasted Sheet Pan Salmon with Spring Veg and Pesto

Prep time: 10 mins | Cook time: 12 mins | Serves: 4

The beauty of this recipe is that it all cooks together in 10-12 minutes! Salmon is such a crowd-pleaser on the grill and is a perfect match for these spring vegetables with pesto. But how often do we focus on crispy salmon skin? This recipe cooks the salmon with the skin side up for a beautiful presentation for those who love the skin. And if you don’t care for it? No worries! Cook it skin-side down and it will still be beautiful. 

Ingredients:

• 4 Salmon pieces (100g), skin on, pin bones removed
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• Rock salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 16 fresh asparagus spears, sliced into 2.5cm pieces
• 180g cherry tomatoes, rinsed and halved
• 300g sugar snap peas
• 1 1/2 lemons halved
• 85g fresh pesto
• 2/3 lemon, zested
• Fresh basil leaves for garnish

Steps:

1. When ready to cook, set the temperature to high and preheat, lid closed for 15 minutes. 

2. Rinse the salmon and pat dry with paper towel. Brush all sides of the salmon with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, and sprinkle generously with salt and freshly ground black pepper on all sides. Place the salmon pieces skin-side up on the sheet tray (or down if preferred) leaving 2 inches between each piece. 

3. Place the asparagus, sugar snap peas and cherry tomatoes in a bowl. Gently mix the vegetables with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil, 1/2 teaspoon salt and a fresh grinding of pepper. Scatter the vegetables evenly onto the sheet pan. 

4. Place the sheet pan on the grill. In addition, place the lemons cut-side down directly on the grill grate towards the front of the grill. Close the lid and cook for 5 minutes at 80°C.

5. After 5 minutes, remove the lemons from the grill and stir the vegetables. Close the lid and cook for 5 more minutes, or until the fish reaches an internal temperature of 60°C and can be flaked with a fork. 

6. Remove the sheet pan from the grill. Place the fish and vegetables on a serving platter and drizzle with the pesto. Sprinkle the lemon zest over the top of the fish and vegetables and add a few basil leaves for garnish. Serve immediately. Enjoy! 

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