First up, a Sauvignon, the RedHeads Princess of Thieves Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (£10.49 Laithwaites). A Tasmanian winemaker once told me that Australian Sauvignon was ‘a weed that needs grubbing up’. He obviously hadn’t tried this. Produced in the cool of the Adelaide Hills, this is excellent with great intensity and an arresting purity. It opens with a piercing, zingy bouquet of gooseberries, lemons and flint smoke. In the mouth it’s just as enthusiastic, dropping gooseberry, rhubarb, and lemon fruit bombs across the tongue, which leave minerals, lime peel and spearmint in their wake. A great solo sipper, this has the concentration to partner everything from fish pie to a green Thai curry.

Staying in Tasmania (I have, it’s amazing) we have the Jansz Premium Cuvée NV (£18.49 Waitrose). Tasting sparkling wines of this quality makes me wonder why I pay so much more for champagne. Pale gold with an entrancing nose of pears, tropical fruits, and toasty yeast, this medium-bodied fizz has all sharpness of a blancmange and the complexity of a chess tournament. Each sip seems to bring something new to the fore making for a fascinating and satisfying glassful. Enjoy this on its own or pair it with shellfish or poultry.

Next, the coolest of cool whites from my favourite cool climate Australian wine region, the Moorooduc Estate Chardonnay 2021 (£25.95 NY Wines) from Mornington Peninsula. Mornington Peninsula is a spit of land that lies to the south of Melbourne which by dint of being surrounded on three sides by water enjoys exceptional growing conditions. Here the McIntyre family produce wines of breathtaking quality that combine New World energy with Old World refinement. The Estate Chardonnay is white gold with a nose of blossoms, lemon, nectarine and peach. On the palate, it’s fresh and zesty with a charge of white peach, grapefruit and lemon followed by delicate notes or orange zest, crushed nuts and red pears. Delicious now with fish or roasted fowl, it’s got time on its side.

I couldn’t celebrate Australia Day without mentioning Yalumba. This family-owned winery’s wines are staples in our house and late last year I tasted the Yalumba Organic Sauvignon Blanc (£9.50 Ocado) and the Yalumba Organic Viognier (£10.99 Waitrose). If you’re looking for great white wines that won’t break the bank, then look no further. The Sauvignon is in the richer, peach and pear style that you often get when Sauvignon is planted in warmer climes, but there’s enough citrusy acidity to keep it vital and agile. The Viognier, a Yalumba speciality, is unoaked which allows the beautiful peach, apricot, and yellow plum fruit to flood froth. Finishing with a tight, bright acidity that brings a nutty dimension to it, it’s perfect with poultry, game birds or meaty white fish.

The queen of grapes in the shape of the Robert Oatley Signature Pinot Noir (£14.30 VINUM). Produced from grapes grown in the relative cool of the Yarra Valley, this is a wonderful example of the rarest wine gems, an affordable Pinot Noir. Mid-red with a summery nose of wild strawberries, red cherries and spiced raspberries, its soft, velvety body offers a gentle combination of cooked red fruits, cream, and spices. The finish is fresh and grippy with rounded tannins offering structure. A taste of summer to accompany the wintry nights ahead.

Torbeck is one of the great names of the Barossa Valley. Their top wines such as the mighty RunRig (West End Wines £170) rank with Australian wine royalty and more than justify their high prices. Happily, their wines cover all price points, and you can enjoy knockout wines like the Torbreck Old Vine Mourvèdre, Shiraz Grenache for under £20, NY Wines have the 2022 for £18.95. While the blend is Rhône, this is every inch a Barossa wine. Inky red, the bouquet bowls out of the glass bringing notes of fruits of the forest, scorched earth, espresso, Asian spices, herbs, liquorice, and mint. In the mouth, it’s mighty and mouth-filling. The black and red fruits have a lovely, sweet tone to them, but the firm acidity, minerals, and leaf tea tones keep everything balanced. Partner this with hearty winter fare or the barbecue come the summer.

I’ll finish with one of the best Shiraz I’ve had in years. The Mount Langi Ghiran 2021 Cliff Edge (Great Wines Direct £19.60) is a masterclass in cool climate winemaking. Hailing from the Grampians region of New South Wales, it conveys Shiraz’s complexity and concentration without being overwhelmingly powerful. From its beautiful blue-black robe rise notes of zesty cassis and fresh red berries with a touch of menthol, smoky oak, cherry jam and wild herbs. The palate balances freshness and weight with crisp blackcurrants, blackberries, plums and blueberries offset by mint, mineral, and Parma violet hints. A class act, pair this with slow-cooked red meats, tomato-rich pasta dishes, or falafel.