Music & food, the perfect combo

Round & About

Food & Recipes

There’s more than just food on the menu at Thame Food Festival on September 24th and 25th

Music & food, the perfect combo

A wonderful celebration of live music magic, sponsored by local company Adactus, is promised at Thame Food Festival where an eclectic line up will span eras and genres.

The dedicated stage will be hosted and presented by the Thame Music Academy where through-out the weekend the Adactus stage will host a variety of local and national musicians. The mix of artists has been carefully choregraphed to appeal to many of the visitors to the festival and gives an opportunity to enjoy true music while soaking up the atmosphere. So, expect a unique blend of blues, rock, pop, reggae, beats, folk and soul.

Based in Thame, Adactus have been helping restaurants to figure out which tech solutions add value for their guests and their employees for over 20 years. A successful hospitality business offers great experiences through their food, service, and the environment they create.

Adactus MD Scott Muncaster said: “Being based in Thame, we love the food festival. So, we are really pleased to be sponsoring the music stage at this year’s festival, with loads of talented musicians performing. See you there!”

Lotte Duncan, Patron and Organiser of Thame Food Festival also said: “People just love the opportunity to chill out and enjoy the live music at Thame Food Festival. The stage is perfectly sandwiched between the FestivAles Pop Up Pub and the Children’s Activity areas, with an area of covered and uncovered seating alongside all the delights of the Artisan Food Market. So, the ideal spot to stop, have a drink, tuck into some food, relax and enjoy the music.”

This year’s event aims to have more than 130 artisan producers alongside demonstrations from many leading chefs and bakers. The event naturally attracts a number of high profile celebrities from both the chef and baking world including Master Chef and Great British Bake Off stars.

The festival is easily accessible from Thame town centre with plenty of free parking if coming from further afield. Entrance in advance is £12 per day (until the 16th September) and all accompanied children under 12 go free.

Find out more

See Thame Food Fesatival’s website for details thamefoodfestival.co.uk

October recipes: Rice up your life!

Round & About

Food & Recipes

We’ve teamed up with The Rice Association to offer you some seasonal inspiration to jazz up a store-cupboard ingredient.

National Rice Week is back this September (12-18th September), and to help you Rice Up Your Life we have some delicious and easy new recipes to tempt you to try a new rice dish.

From bomba rice in Arroz De Marisco, Basmati rice in Turmeric Garlic Rice, long-grain rice in Middle Eastern Green Rice with Tofu Kebabs, risotto rice in Risotto Soup and to using leftover rice in Vegan Rice Pudding with Roasted Plums, there’s a new recipe that everyone can enjoy.

All types of rice offer equally good value as they are convenient, full of nutrients, easy to cook and versatile. In fact, rice is one of the few foods that can be enjoyed sweet or savoury, hot or cold and for every meal of the day, even snacks.

To find out more ways to make the most of rice and to discover what’s happening during the week this National Rice Week, visit riceassocation.org.uk and for even more tasty rice recipes, visit riceassociation.org.uk/recipes

Vegan Rice Pudding with Roasted Plums by Samantha Hadadi

Prep time: 5 mins | Cooking time: 15 mins | Serves: 2

For the plums:

• 1 tbsp maple syrup
• 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
• 300g ripe plums, stoned and sliced
• 1/4 tsp ground cinnamon

For the rice pudding:

• 180g cooked leftover cooked or pouched Basmati rice
• 180-250ml plant-based milk e.g. cashew
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
• Pinch ground nutmeg
• 2 tbsp maple syrup
• 2-4 tbsp plant-based cream
• Optional: Flaked almonds to serve

Method

Start by preheating your oven to 180C / gas mark four and then prepare the plums. Whisk together the vanilla and maple syrup. Arrange your sliced plums on a lined baking tray, then drizzle with the maple syrup. Sprinkle over ground cinnamon, then toss to coat. Roast until juicy and oozing (around 15 minutes but check at 12 minutes). Set aside.

In the meantime, make your rice pudding. Add the cooked rice to a medium pan, then pour in 180ml of milk, as well as the vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg and 2 tbsp of maple syrup. Stir well, then heat (on a low to medium heat) until thickened, creamy and the rice is soft (around 10 minutes) – add a splash more milk, if needed. Stir in the plant-based cream until you achieve texture desired.

Serve warm with flaked almonds and the plums and their juices.

Turmeric Garlic Pilaf by Your Food Fantasy

Ingredients:

• 350g Basmati rice
• 2 tsp turmeric
• Two star anise seeds
• Five or six black peppercorns
• Two or three cloves
• 1 inch cinnamon stick
• Two black cardamom
• 4 tbsp vegetable oil
• 1 tsp cumin seeds
• Two bay leaves
• Six or seven cloves garlic (sliced/chopped)
• Large onion (thinly sliced)
• 20g cashews
• 45g green peas
• 15g raisins

Prep time: 5 minutes | Soaking time: 30 minutes | Cooking time: 20 minutes | Serving: 4

Method

Wash and soak rice in water for minimum 30 minutes. Bring 1.2L of water to boil in a large saucepan, add soaked rice, turmeric powder, star anise seeds, black peppercorn, cloves, cinnamon stick, black cardamom, and 2 tablespoons of oil. Gently stir, then let the rice boil for 5-7 minutes.

Once rice is cooked (rice should soft) switch off the heat and drain in a colander. Let it sit for 5 minutes. Heat the remaining oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add cumin seeds, bay leaves and stir. Add sliced garlic and onion to it and sauté till they are golden in colour. Add cashews and sauté again.

Now add peas and sauté again. Cover the pan with lid and let peas cook for 3-4 minutes. Add raisins and sauté. Add cooked rice and mix well. Cover the pan again and let rice steam for 3-4 minutes.

Switch off the heat and serve the rice hot. Enjoy!

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Tom Kerridge set lunch for £15

Karen Neville

Food & Recipes

Enjoy two courses for £15 at The Coach in Marlow, Tom explains the idea, how it came about and what diners can expect

Back in 2008, when the country hit a recession and people were very worried about the money in their pockets, I was deep in the kitchen trying to work out how to strengthen and lay the foundations for a young business.

Beth and I came up with what sounded like a ludicrous idea but could be fun…’why don’t we do a set lunch menu that’s price feels like it is too good to be true.’ So, we launched a one choice lunch menu that made absolutely no money but filled the pub with noise, excitement and laughter. It was incredibly motivating for staff and the team and it felt like the guests were having such a great time as it was such value for money.

It was incredibly motivating for staff and the team and it felt like the guests were having such a great time as it was such value for money.

Now, in 2022, it feels like those times are here again. You can’t turn on the TV, look at social media or read a newspaper without the grim news of the cost-of-living crisis. So, it is time to bring back the ‘too good to be true’ offer.

Cottage Pie
Tomato Soup
Crème Brûlée

We are very excited to launch a set lunch £15 menu. Yes, that is right, £15 for two courses (a third course can be enjoyed for an additional £7.50), running across three of our sites. Kerridge’s Bar & Grill in the heart of London at The Corinthia, the one Michelin starred The Coach in Marlow, and the beautiful Bull & Bear in Manchester.

The same menu will run concurrently in all sites, headed up by Nick Beardshaw, Sarah Hayward and Connor Black and launches this week. The dishes will champion classic pub favourites or even school dinners, so expect cottage pie, lasagne and caramelized onion sausage with mash followed by old school desserts of spotted dick, jam roly poly and crumble and custard. The aim is to get the excitement and buzz back into restaurants without guests having the fear of spending too much money. A taste of the good times at a fraction of the price.

Please come and join us

The set lunch menu at The Coach, West Street, Marlow is available Wednesday to Friday, book at www.thecoachmarlow.co.uk

Hogs Back celebrates 30 years

Round & About

Food & Recipes

Hogs Back Brewery marked its 30th birthday with a special ’30 at 30′ celebration, inviting 30 local loyal drinkers to join them for a celebratory pint

The 30 at 30 celebrations, held at the brewery in Tongham, brought back happy memories for guests, as they recalled where they had enjoyed their first pint of Tongham TEA.   

For Nigel, his first pint at the King William IV at Mickleham, was ‘love at first taste and it has been an enduring love story!‘.  Martin was ‘lucky to taste the first brew of TEA, with the original Hogs Back brewer’ and John remembered drinking it “with my father, explaining to me what real beer tastes like.”  Several guests had enjoyed Tongham TEA at weddings and birthday parties. 

Hogs Back Brewery managing director Rupert Thompson said: “We wanted to celebrate our 30th birthday with thanks to loyal customers who have supported us for 30 years – as without them, we wouldn’t be here today. 

“Over the years, TEA has been requested as the beer at many weddings and other celebrations, so for a whole generation of local people, it has a special place in their lives.  

“Many also spoke about coming here with their parents to collect a barrel of Tongham TEA and are now doing the same with their own adult children. We’re of course delighted to see this tradition continue, and by inviting some of these younger drinkers to join our celebrations, we hope that they too become lifelong Tongham TEA drinkers!” 

Ready for harvest

The ’30 at 30′ gathering was one of the last to be held in the Hogs Back hangar this summer before it switches from being a bar and event space to become the hub of the hop harvest, which starts at the end of August. Hop bines cut in the hop garden just yards away are brought back to the hangar where they are sorted, then dried and vacuum packed that they can add flavour and aroma to the brewer’s beers all year. 

Bringing in the hops from the 8.5 acre field is expected to take several weeks and will be celebrated at the Hogs Back Hop Harvest weekend on 24th and 25th September. The Hop Harvest Festival on the Saturday offers a fantastic musical line up including top Queen tribute band Majesty, while the TEA Party on the Sunday is more family-focused with a range of children’s entertainment. The full range of Hogs Back’s beers, including Green TEA, brewed with hops freshly-picked in the hop garden, will be available on both days: https://hogsback.co.uk/products/hop-harvest-party-2022 

The biggest event on our calendar

Thompson said: “The Hop Harvest festivities are the biggest event on our calendar and were attended by 2,500 people last year. And as we’re the only brewer of any size to have our own hop garden, it is a uniquely Hogs Back celebration. 

“Hops, like all crops, need water to thrive and the recent drought will have an impact on this year’s harvest.  We’re not expecting to repeat last year’s bumper crop, but we will still harvest a good quantity of our own home-grown hops, which contribute to the distinctive flavour of our beers. And, as they are grown just yards from the brewery rather than imported from afar, they are reducing our food miles and helping us achieve our goal of being an ever more sustainable brewer.”   

Hogs Back will harvest three hop varieties this year: Fuggles, used in Tongham TEA; English Cascade, used in its Hogstar lager and Surrey Nirvana Session IPA and Farnham White Bine, a traditional local variety that the brewer saved from near-extinction. 

Contact Hogs Back Brewery

Visit their website

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September recipes: Good Mood Food

Round & About

Food & Recipes

Ainsley Harriott shares two ideas from his newest cookbook.

Earthy beetroot works so well with salty and creamy goat’s cheese. I’ve used different coloured beetroot, which looks pretty on the plate, and cooked and raw beets for added texture, but you can stick with purple. Serve with fresh crusty bread.

Roasted beetroot, candied walnut & goat’s cheese salad

Prep time: 60 minutes including marinating | Cooking time: 45-50 mins | Serves: 4

HyperFocal: 0

Ingredients:

• Four to six medium purple beetroot, scrubbed & trimmed
• Two to four medium heritage or candy beetroot, trimmed & peeled
• 25g caster sugar
• 1tsp butter
• Pinch of chilli flakes (optional)
• 60g walnut halves, toasted
• 150g goat’s cheese, crumbled
• Six to eight mint leaves, shredded a handful of lamb’s lettuce or watercress
• Zest of ½ orange
• Flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the dressing

• 2 tbsp walnut oil
• 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 1½ tbsp sherry/red wine vinegar
• 1 tsp Dijon mustard/horseradish
• 2 tsp runny honey
• Zest and juice of ½ orange

Method

Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Place the purple beetroot in a roasting tin and add about a 6mm depth of water. Cover the tin tightly with foil and roast for 40–50 minutes or until tender. Leave to cool, then use your fingers (you may want to wear gloves!) or kitchen paper to rub the skins from the beetroot. Cut into wedges.

Meanwhile, cut the heritage or candy beetroot into very thin slices, using either a mandolin or a very sharp knife. Put into a bowl. In a small bowl, whisk the dressing ingredients. Lightly season and pour half over the raw beetroot. Leave to marinate 30 minutes while the purple beetroot is roasting.

Line a baking sheet with parchment. Place the sugar, butter and chilli flakes in a small non-stick frying pan and cook over a medium heat, stirring, until the butter and sugar have melted and turned golden. Stir in the walnuts for a minute until the nuts are nicely coated. Pour out on to the baking sheet and use two forks to quickly separate the nuts.

Sprinkle with a little sea salt and leave to cool completely.

To serve, arrange the marinated beetroot on a plate then pile the wedges of roasted beetroot on top. Scatter over the cheese, mint and candied walnuts and top with salad leaves. Sprinkle over orange zest, drizzle over the remaining dressing and season with a little flaky sea salt.

Blueberry & almond clafoutis with cardamom cream

Ingredients:

• Small knob of butter
• 100g caster sugar, plus extra for sprinkling
• 250g fresh blueberries
• Zest of one lemon
• 125ml whole milk
• 150ml double cream
• ½ tsp almond extract or 1 tsp vanilla extract
• Three large eggs
• 30g plain flour
• 40g ground almonds
• 1 tsp baking powder
• Pinch of salt

For the cardamom cream:

• 250ml double cream
• 1 tbsp icing sugar, plus extra for dusting
• Seeds of four or five cardamon pods, crushed

Prep time: 10 minutes  | Cooking time: 40 minutes | Serving: 4-6

HyperFocal: 0

Method

traditional French clafoutis is made with cherries but I love the unique, perfumed sweet sourness of blueberries, and they go so well with almond. The ground almonds make this slightly less custard-like than a typical clafoutis. Instead, it has more texture and flavour, like a deliciously light cake batter. Serving with a cardamom cream may sound peculiar, yet the combination of the citrusy, aromatic spice with the vanilla notes in the sweet berries really does work. I like to call this bluefoutis, but maybe that’s just me!

Preheat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/gas 4. Grease a 20cm ovenproof baking or pie dish with the butter and sprinkle with two tablespoons of caster sugar to coat the inside. Put the blueberries in the bottom of the dish and scatter over the lemon zest.

Mix together the milk, cream and almond extract.

In a separate mixing bowl, whisk the eggs and sugar together until light and frothy, then stir in the flour, ground almonds, baking powder and salt. Gradually pour the milk mixture on to the eggs, whisking all the time, until the batter is smooth and creamy, but being careful not to overmix.

Pour the batter over the blueberries and sprinkle with caster sugar. Bake in the oven for 35 to 40 minutes or until puffy, golden and just set with a slight wobble in the middle.

Meanwhile, whisk the double cream and icing sugar together until soft peaks form. Fold in the cardamon until well combined. Chill until needed.

Remove the clafoutis from the oven and transfer the dish to a wire rack for 5–10 minutes. The clafoutis will deflate a little as it cools, but don’t worry! Dust with icing sugar and serve warm or at room temperature, topped with a spoonful of the cardamom cream.

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Summer dining at The Oarsman, Marlow

Karen Neville

Food & Recipes

The perfect place to enjoy lunch or dinner in the sunshine

The Oarsman, the recently-opened Bistro-pub situated in the riverside town of Marlow is looking forward to welcoming you to enjoy its new outdoor terrace and summer menu.

The Oarsman is a contemporary Bistro Pub & Wine Bar on Spittal Street which serves bistro-style seasonal dishes from the open kitchen and small plates from the charcuterie and larder counter for lunch and dinner.

The stunning new  terrace is now open for drinks, small plates and dining every day which you should be able to enjoy now enveloped in sunshine.

A strong environmental ethos and pledge to support local suppliers where possible will ensure The Oarsman will serve the finest, seasonal produce.

Heading up the kitchen is chef Scott Smith (previously Head Chef at Sugar Boat, Scotland) who has created a menu which honours the very best of British, giving the occasional nod to Scottish and Mediterranean influences and using locally sourced, seasonal ingredients that champion small producers.

Smith’s menu brings his Michelin-starred training to bear – diners can expect elevated bistro-classics such as Potted shrimp, crumpet & pickled cucumber, Trotters, bacon & beef dripping or Moules marinere with fries.

If you like your wine, there’s an extensive list of fine & rare wines, as well as a wide range of wines by the glass.

A strong environmental ethos and pledge to support local suppliers where possible will ensure The Oarsman will serve the finest, seasonal produce.

Find out more

Visit The Oarsman’s website (theoarsman.co.uk) for more details.

Hogs Back’s ’30 at 30’

Karen Neville

Food & Recipes

Your chance to join the celebrations for three decades of Tongham TEA

If you live in or around Farnham, the chances are that one of your first pints of beer was Hogs Back’s Tongham TEA (Traditional English Ale). The ale was the first beer brewed at Hogs Back Brewery when it opened 30 years ago, and it enjoyed almost instant success, with the hog icon becoming a familiar sight in pubs across Surrey.

To celebrate its 30th birthday this year, Hogs Back is inviting 30 local drinkers who’ve been enjoying their beers for a while to join them – and bring a younger drinker with them, for a toast to the past, present and future success of the brewery, on Thursday, 18th August.

We remain an independent brewer, committed to our Surrey roots

To join the party just let them know where you drank your first pint of TEA, by visiting the website page.  We’ll invite 30 people to our special birthday drinks at the brewery, with a son, daughter or other younger relative or friend – aged 18+ – to pass the love of TEA down the generations!

Managing director Rupert Thompson said: “We’re delighted to be reaching our 30th birthday with plenty to be proud of.  Much has changed since the brewery opened its doors in 1992, but we remain an independent brewer, committed to our Surrey roots – as demonstrated by our continued investment in our site here at Tongham, including the hop garden.

We are both thanking the local people who’ve made Hogs Back the successful brewery it is today, and doing our best to make sure it’s still alive and kicking in 30 years’ time!

“Clearly, without people drinking our beers, we would have no success to celebrate today! So, we’d like to reward anyone who’s been enjoying our TEA for a while with a pint or two on us, and at the same time introduce our beers to younger drinkers. This way, we are both thanking the local people who’ve made Hogs Back the successful brewery it is today, and doing our best to make sure it’s still alive and kicking in 30 years’ time!”

Hogs Back Brewery opened in August 1992 in Tongham, near Farnham, in 18th century farm buildings that at various times had stored wheat and housed cattle and, appropriately, hogs. The first casks to roll out of the original brewhouse – now the site of the Brewery Shop – and into local pubs were TEA – which was renamed Tongham TEA earlier this year.

Tongham TEA remains the brewery’s best-seller, winning numerous awards over the years, and gathering a loyal customer following in Surrey and across the south. Hogs Back’s reputation as a brewer of exceptionally fine ales was bolstered by subsequent launches such as Hop Garden Gold and RipSnorter and in recent years the brewery has broadened its range, launching new beers such as Hogstar Lager, Surrey Nirvana Session IPA and A over T (Aromas over Tongham) which won CAMRA’s Champion Bottled Beer of Britain in 2020.

HOGS BACK BREWERY – 30 YEARS OF BREWING EXCELLENCE

1992:    First barrels of TEA produced at the Manor Farm site in Tongham, where the brewery remains today. One of the first pubs to stock it is the White Hart in Tongham, where it sells at £1.30 a pint.

1995:    TEA named as runner up in Best Bitter category at the Great British Beer Festival, run by CAMRA.

2000:    TEA named as winner in Best Bitter category and then overall runner up Champion Beer of Britain at the Great British Beer Festival

2006:    A over T (Aromas over Tongham) named Supreme Champion Winter Ale of Britain at the CAMRA Winter Beer Festival.

2012:    Business bought by Rupert Thompson, who had worked in the brewing industry for many years on brands including Carling (Britain’s biggest beer brand), Old Speckled Hen and Hobgoblin.

2013:    Launch of Hogstar Lager, a 4.5% ABV lager brewed with five different hops and selected herb extracts and matured for over a month.

2013:    Launch of Hazy Hog, a cloudy cider

2014:    Planting of hop garden adjacent to the brewery, making Hogs Back the largest brewer with a hop garden in the UK. In 2015, Hogs Back harvest three hop varieties: Fuggles – used in Tongham TEA; Cascade – used in Hogstar lager; and Farnham White Bine.

2015:    Hogstar wins Gold in the Premium Pale & Golden Lagers in the Society of Independent Brewers (SIBA) National Awards. It also wins Gold in the SIBA South East Region Awards in 2018

2019:    Relocation of the hop garden to an 8.5 acre site next to the brewery.

2020:    A over T, a 9% ABV bottle conditioned barley wine, wins CAMRA’s Champion Bottled Beer of Britain

2021:    Hogs Back harvests its largest ever hop crop, and 2,500 people enjoy Hop Harvest celebrations over a weekend in September.

2022:    Hogs Back’s flagship ale, TEA, is renamed as Tongham TEA and given a new design. The traditional, graphic style shows an illustration of the familiar Hog mascot in front of the brewery, farm buildings and fields.

Contact Hogs Back Brewery

Visit their website

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Cheers! Best wines for summer

Round & About

Food & Recipes

Columnist Giles Luckett recommends some sensational summer sippers available locally.

Hello.

Summer is a brilliant season for wine lovers. There’s nothing quite like being able to sit in the sun and sip some time away in the company of a diverting glass or two. Over the last 30 years, I’ve written dozens of best of the summer wines columns, most of them under strict deadlines.  Not because of pressure from my editor, but because spells of good weather have often lasted about as long as a bottle of Graham Beck Rosé (Majestic £11.99) lasts in my house. The current two-person record being 14 minutes and 18 seconds.

That certainly isn’t a problem this year. And with the forecast for our part of the country giving better odds on cloudy with a chance of meatballs than rain, here are some summer sipping wine recommendations that should bring a smile to even parched lips.

First up, a fizz. I’ve always been passionate about sparkling wines, and the last few years have proved a golden age. When I joined the wine trade, Harrods’ wine department reflected the mood of the times by listing a wide range of Champagnes but virtually no sparkling wines.

This was great for tastings – the evening we spent tasting every Champagne in the shop was one of the best tastings I’ve ever attended – but woeful for the wallet. Good (drinkable) sparkling wine was rarer than a hen’s dentures, but how things have changed…

South Africa, Australia, California, France (who knew?), and Italy all offer great tasting; great value fizzes these days. For this column, though, I’m going to recommend a homegrown wine, the Denbies Whitedowns (Waitrose £18.99). This is everything you could wish for in a sparkling wine. From the fresh, floral, white berry nose to the refined, zesty palate with its flavours of pears, citrus, and peach stones, it’s complex as it is and refreshing.

There's nothing quite like being able to sit in the sun and sip some time away in the company of a diverting glass or two.

Next up, the first of two whites. CUNE is one of the great names of Rioja. Wines such as Vina Real and Imperial are the stuff of wine trade legend, and even their entry-level Crianza (Sainsbury’s £7.50. No, seriously £7.50, I couldn’t believe it either) is brilliant. Their whites can be just as compelling, and the Cune White Rioja is deep joy Barrel fermented; this traditionally styled white Rioja offers masses of peach, red apple, and honeydew melon fruit, with overtones of spicy vanilla. Versatile enough to partner with white meats, fish, or creamy cheeses, it’s also lovely on its own.

My second white couldn’t be more different. It’s the Wine Society’s Vihno Verde (£6. ) Portugal’s wines have been a trade secret for years, though attention has focused on the reds. I’ve had quite a few of their whites of late, and if you’re looking for value and excellence, look no further. The Society’s Vihno Verde is a wonderfully pure, clean, fresh-tasting wine that is light, delicate, and has a touch of spritz to it Fruit-driven; it has a pear and almond flavour to it that finishes with a twist of lemon. The perfect summer evening sipper or elegant aperitif.

If you’re looking for a serious rosé for summer sipping, I can wholeheartedly recommend the Domaine des Echardieres (£9.50). This is made by Vineyard Productions, which is headed up by Liam Stevenson, the youngest ever Master of Wine and someone who holds world records for rowing across the Atlantic. Hero worship is due, especially when you try his wines. The dedication to the cause of creating great wines with a ‘taste of place’ shines through this delicious Loire Valley wine. Made from Cabernet Franc, Gamay, and Malbec, it offers an intriguing blend of blackberries and green peppers from the Cabernet, cherries from the Gamay, and a richness and a hint of ripe plums from the Malbec. This is an outstanding choice in a cluttered and often disappointing rosé market, where presentation counts for more than contents.

And so to the reds. My first choice is a perennial summer favourite of mine, the Zuccardi Los Olivos Malbec (£11.50 Oxford Wine Company). I’m a massive fan of Argentinean Malbec, and Zuccardi is one of the finest producers of it. Inky purple, the sumptuous nose is a combination of stewed black fruits, offset by notes of raspberries and rose petals. In the mouth, it’s generous, full, multi-layered, and offers everything from blackcurrants and chocolate to red berries and charcoal. This is an absolute must for barbecued red meats.

And finally, another wine from Liam, the Petite Immortelle (£11.95 Vin Cognito). This hails from the South of France’s Roussillon region and is a traditional blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, and Carignan. Earlier this year, I tried this with its big brother, the Immortelle (£20.95 Dawe Wines), and I knew that both would make my top ten wines of the year. The Petite Immortelle is approachable now (its big brother is a beast that needs time to show its full beauty) and offers up masses of sweetly toned black fruits, plum skins, smoke, herbs, and a long minerally finish. This is another outstanding wine from a winemaking team that is doing some fantastic things.

Until next time...

Well, that’s me, for now at least. Given a following wind and an available glass, I’ll be back soon with a few words on affordable fizz.

Giles

Respect your elders! Five recipes

Liz Nicholls

Food & Recipes

August is the zenith of elderflower season, with this floral yet tropical flavoured plant gracing many a hedgerow in this gorgeous part of the world.

The plant is known for its white flowers which sprawl out of the stem and will begin to flourish from May lasting through to August, when it then begins to develop purple elderberries.

The fresh, floral, and slightly tropical taste makes the flower a great base for many recipes. The taste is often compared to a more floral version of pear or lychee.

Most commonly, elderflower is found in cordial drinks, but the versatile ingredient has far more to offer…

How to spot elderflower

Elderflower’s most recognisable element is its sprawling white flowers which look like a burst of small creamy petals. The tree itself will be small in size, often just a shrub. It is plentiful throughout the UK and often grows in woods, hedges or even in parks or on big streets. However, before you even spot the flower, you may be able to smell it! Elderflower has a distinctive aroma which many liken to ‘the smell of summer’ – it should smell floral and creamy. If the flowers have a brown colour or smell musty, it’s best to leave that plant. Lastly, be sure you’re not confusing elderflower with other similar looking plants like Pyracantha or Cow Parsley. If possible, take a photo of elderflower with you so you can compare. Remember that elderflowers grow from woody, leafy branches, have 5 rounded petals and yellow anthers.

How to prepare your elderflower

If you can, try to pick your elderflower in fair weather. The blooms will be packed with pollen and it’s this which gives the plant its signature taste. Poor weather can mean that the pollen has been washed or blown away, resulting in a less flavourful return. It’s also worth avoiding any elderflowers from beside road or railway lines as these can be tainted with fumes, instead try to wander farther afield for your crop. This is important as when you come to prepare your flowers, you shouldn’t wash them, as this will remove the aforementioned pollen.

Instead, pick off any bugs then trim the blossoms into a container ensuring you gather any pollen that falls away. Discard the stems. It’s best to use elderflower right away, but if you do need to store it, place your flowers in a paper bag and keep in a cool, dry place.

Recipe ideas

Champagne

Elderflower Champagne is the perfect, elegant use for these flowers. To make a batch of your own you’ll need sugar, lemons, and some white wine vinegar.

A simple recipe can be found from River Cottage requiring only basic equipment and some appropriate bottles of choice, just make sure these have a cork or stopper to create that fizz!

This recipe requires a little patience as you’ll need to wait at least a week before your batch is ready. If you plan on storing your champagne, you may need to pop the lid occasionally to release excess pressure from building up.

Once ready, the drink makes a perfect garden party tipple, ideal for sharing with friends!

Fritters

This recipe is much simpler than it sounds. All you need is flour, baking powder, icing sugar and sparkling water. Simply mix the first three ingredients together then add your sparkling water. Aim for a thick texture that is still a little runny. Once ready, dip in your elderflower heads then add to a pan of hot, but not smoking, oil. The fritters should turn golden brown and be ready to remove in under a minute. Once ready, remove and leave to dry on kitchen paper, then dust in icing sugar or serve with a drizzle of honey. For a more adventurous taste, swap out the sparkling water for beer or ginger beer for a different twist.

Sorbet

Sorbet is a simple and versatile way to use your elderflowers. Bring two parts water and one parts sugar to a boil, add in your ingredients, simmer, cool for at least an hour, leave to infuse, strain, then pour into containers to freeze.

The best thing about creating sorbet is that you can experiment with flavours. Some great options to add to your elderflower include lemon, gin, strawberry, or rhubarb. A perfect cooling dessert for summer that’s easy to make, store and enjoy. Top with fresh fruit, biscuits, or add to sparkling wine for a simple, yet elegant, cocktail.

Tea

One effortless way to use your elderflower is to make tea. All you need for this is your elderflower cuttings, a cup and something to strain the liquid. Once you’ve trimmed your elderflowers, hang them upside down in a light, airy place to allow the flowers to dry out. Once done, keep your elderflower in a tin and store for when you want to make a cup. To make the tea, all you need to do is add elderflowers to boiling water and allow it to infuse. After a few minutes, strain the liquid into a cup of your choice. Alternatively, if you have a tea strainer, simply put your elderflowers cuttings inside and cover with hot water.

Cake

Last but not least, elderflower has always been a firm favourite with bakers, giving cakes a sweet but subtle twist. Royal fans may remember that Harry and Meghan opted for a lemon and elderflower cake at their wedding, adorned with fresh flowers. There’s a wealth of options if you’re looking to use elderflower in baking from adding into the mix, creating an elderflower syrup, or mixing it into a buttercream filling or topping. When it comes to the perfect flavour pairings, lemon is often the most popular choice, but pistachio, raspberries, or blueberries also make great combinations. For the perfect summer showstopper, try drizzling your cake with icing and topping with edible flowers.

“Elderflower can be a wonderfully diverse ingredient, while its flavour is distinctive, it’s sweet and floral nature means it pairs well with a wealth of other flavours,” says Kate Cartwright of Burleigh Pottery.

“Luckily in the UK, elder trees are abundant, meaning it’s highly likely you’ll be able to forage some elderflower for yourself. Just look out for the bursts of white flowers which should be blooming anytime now. When done responsibly, foraging is a great way to take advantage of the wonderful wild plants and ingredients we have in our country. Using local ingredients allows us to be more sustainable and cooking with wildflowers such as elderflower embraces and celebrates the ingredients we have all around us.”

A final word

It’s important to be responsible when foraging and there are some basic principles you should follow:

• Don’t take more than you need.

• Be careful not to trample or damage plants.

• Leave lots behind.

• Be sure you have identified the plant before consuming.

• Seek permission on private land.

• Elderflower mildly toxic when raw. Cooking destroys the toxic chemicals.

August recipes: Feast of fun

Round & About

Food & Recipes

Ching He Huang & Lizzie Acker are two of the chefs on the sizzling line-up for the Big Feastival in Oxfordshire, 26th-28th August, so they’ve served up these summer tasters…

Lizzie Acker’s fruit tart

Prep: 65 minutes, Cooking: 50 minutes, Serves: Four

Ingredients:
Pastry
• 250g unsalted butter
• 2 eggs
• 350g plain flour
• 250g icing sugar
• Small pinch of salt

Filling
• 3 eggs
• 30g melted browned butter
• 50g ground almonds
• 150g double cream
• 150g light brown sugar
• 1tbsp flour
• 50g sliced almonds
• 1tsp vanilla bean paste
• 200g berries

Method

Pastry:
Beat the butter and sugar until mixed together. Add the beaten eggs and then add the flour and icing sugar mix until it forms a dough.

Squash the pastry into a round disc, shape with cling film and chill for an hour in the fridge.

Filling:
Add 30g of butter to a hard-based pan and place on a hob to melt and brown.

Beat the eggs and then add the sugar, double cream, ground almonds, vanilla paste and flour.

Once the butter has cooled slightly, add to the egg mixture and chill in the fridge. Set the oven to 175°c.

Roll out the pastry on to a lightly floured surface. Transfer to a tin and trim the edges with a knife. Prick the tart base.

Fill the tart with the filling mixture. Sprinkle in the berries and sliced almonds.

Bake for 50 minutes and then serve with cream and a dusting of icing sugar.

Ching’s waikiki bowl

Prep: 15 minutes, Cooking: 18-23 minutes, Serves: Three

Ingredients:
• 8 cherry tomatoes, halved
• 1 tbsp tamari or low-sodium light soy sauce
• 1 tbsp finely chopped chives
• 200g (7oz) jasmine rice
• 50ml (2fl oz) coconut milk (see tip)
• 1 tbsp toasted coconut flakes
• 1 tsp rapeseed oil
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 2.5cm (1in) piece of fresh root ginger, grated
• 200g (7oz) smoked tofu, drained, rinsed in cold water and diced into 1.5cm (¾ in) cubes
• 2 tbsp mirin
• 2 tbsp tamari or low-sodium light soy sauce
• 1 tbsp golden syrup
• kiwi, peeled and sliced into 0.5cm (¼ in) rounds, then each round into 8 wedges
• 1 small pineapple, peeled, cored and diced into 0.5cm (¼ in) cubes
• 1 whole mango, peeled, stoned and diced into 0.5cm (¼ in) cubes
• A handful of roasted salted cashew nuts
• A handful of edamame, blanched from frozen, ready to eat
• 50g (1 ¾ oz) red cabbage, shredded
• Fried crispy salted seaweed, two or three pieces of hand-torn, crispy fried ready-to-eat nori, fried shallots and toasted sesame seeds, to garnish

Method
In a small bowl, combine the cherry tomatoes with the tamari or light soy sauce and chopped chives and set aside.

Place the jasmine rice in a saucepan with the coconut milk and 350ml (12fl oz) water. Bring to the boil over a high heat. Reduce the heat to low to bring to a simmer, then cover and cook for 15–20 minutes.

Once cooked, remove the lid and fluff up the rice with a fork. Sprinkle over the toasted coconut flakes and set aside.

Heat a wok over a high heat until smoking, and add the rapeseed oil. Once hot, add the garlic and ginger. Toss for a few seconds, then add the smoked tofu and cook, tossing, for five seconds.

Add the mirin, tamari or light soy sauce and golden syrup and cook for two or three minutes until the sauce is reduced and the tofu is sticky. Set aside.

When you’re ready to serve, divide the rice between three bowls. Working in sections (like slices of a pizza) add the various toppings to the rice: the tamari-chive tomatoes, the teriyaki tofu, the kiwi, the pineapple, the mango, the cashew nuts, the edamame and the red cabbage.

Garnish with crushed crispy fried salted seaweed, nori flakes, fried shallots and toasted sesame seeds. Serve immediately.

Ching’s tip — If the coconut milk has separated in the can, stir the milk to bring it back together before using.

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