Chile: home of affordable fine wines?

Round & About

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Food & Recipes

Our wine columnist Giles Luckett explores the best Chilean charms worth trying…

Hello! I recently hosted a slightly unusual Chilean wine tasting. It wasn’t, as one of my wag friends suggested, unusual as there were no Chilean wines on show, but because the focus was on fine wines. Chile has a long wine-making history – the first vines were planted by Spanish conquistadors in the 16th century – and since its rise to wine prominence in the 1980s, it’s been focused on the production of great value everyday drinking wines.

In doing so, Chile had an advantage over the other re-emerging wine nations, as its industry wasn’t based on the production of fortified wines as was the case in Australia and South Africa, but on table wines. This, coupled with the influence of French settlers in the early 20th century, meant their wines were often produced from popular, noble varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Chardonnay. 

For the longest time, Chile seemed content to produce these great everyday wines and leave the fancily priced “icon” labels to the Californians and the Aussies. Recently, however, there’s been a change in attitude. Winery owners have been looking at the abundant gifts mother nature has bestowed, have invested heavily in wineries and winemakers, and have started producing wines that are as fine as anything old-world regions can produce.

What I wanted to discover at this tasting was a) does Chile still deliver the goods at all price levels (spoiler alert: Oh, yes!) and b) how the Chilean superstars match up to the world’s greatest wines. The results were fascinating, and while some of the wines in this article are far from cheap, they still represent great value when set against their peers.

Top Chilean fine wines 

I’ll kick things off with wine that combines classical Chilean value, a touch of South American flair, and fine wine unorthodoxy. It’s the Don Aldo Olivier Pedro Ximenez Chardonnay (Laithwaites 11.99). I’ve never seen a Pedro Ximenez wine outside of Spain, and those were mainly sweet sherries. This is fresh as a spring dawn and just as joyful. The zesty, grapefruit and lime nose is followed by a tangy white berry palate, before the creamy Chardonnay comes in, softening things with peaches and apricots and adding a smoky richness. This would be great with turkey. Sorry, too soon….?

Montes is one of the great names of Chilean wine, with the likes of the Montes Alpha and Montes M amongst Chile’s first super-premium wines. We tasted another of their fine wines, the Montes Single Vineyard Chardonnay (£12.99). Hailing from the cool Casablanca Valley, this is a refined incarnation of Chilean Chardonnay with lots of green and red apple fruit, crisp green pear, and melon tones and a twist of lemon on the end. The oak provides a creamy, nutty backdrop but isn’t allowed to dominate. Give this an hour open and try it with roasted poultry, pheasant or partridge.

When you see the name “Rothschild” on a label, you know that quality awaits. The (Lafite) Rothchild side of the family has been involved in Chile for many years and the Los Vascos Sauvignon Blanc (Ocado £15) remains an affordable fine wine classic. The crisp, refreshing nose has plenty of citrus and green pepper tones, but also has hints of flint and cut grass. In the mouth, it’s intense, concentrated and precise, with a lean, fresh profile that reveals grapefruit, lemons, gooseberries and savoury green peppers. This is Chilean Sauvignon in the fine Bordeaux style without the fine Bordeaux price tag.

Chile’s abundance of microclimates means it can give a good home to almost any grape variety and produce something special. Time and again it’s impressed me with its dry Rieslings and the Matetic Corralillo Riesling 2021 (Hic! £14.50) is another gem. Gloriously fragrant with aromas of apple blossom, peach, honey, and Granny Smith apples, the palate was multi-layered, combining white berry and orchard fruits with minerals, apricots and a zesty finish. Dry, with just a hint of richness, this would be sublime with smoked fish or strong cheeses such as gruyere or stilton. Oh, did I mention it’s dry?

I’ll leave the whites on a high. About 700m high, to be exact, with a Chardonnay from the Aconcagua Coast region in central Chile. The Las Pizarras Chardonnay (Berry Bros & Rudd £52.50)is the greatest Chilean Chardonnay I’ve ever tasted and has achieved scores of 97+ from the world’s leading critics. Oh, and from me. Poised and refined, this beautiful wine offers apple and Comice pear fruit in a firm, precise fashion. The oak adds weight and spice to the mix and even more complexity. At £52 it’s not cheap, but if you compare it to its Burgundian peers, it’s an absolute steal. If you’re thinking of trying this, look for the 2019 or older. It takes a couple of years to show its best and so older vintages are well worth seeking out.

And so the reds. Carmenere is Chile’s signature red grape. Shunned in Bordeaux, it’s found an ideal home in Chile and even fine examples remain affordable. Take the Adnams Carmenere (Adnams £8.49). This super-fruity, easy-drinking, plump red is bursting with blueberry and mulberry fruit with an undertow of leaf tea, mint, and prunes. Carmenere remains slightly misunderstood/unfashionable, which means it gives even greater value for money. Try this red meats or tomato-based dishes.

Next up is a “field blend”. No, until a couple of years ago I’d never heard this either. A field blend is a wine that’s been created from two or more varieties that have been planted in the same vineyard. Many of these vineyards, such as those in northern California, are very old and were the product of people planting whatever they could get without paying too much heed to varieties. They can make for really interesting combinations as the La Despensa Field Blend (Corkage £25) shows. This Rhône-style wine is made up of Grenache, Mourvèdre and a splash of Roussanne (a white vine). Mid-red and dominated by red cherries and plums, there’s a lovely lift of alpine strawberry on the mid-palate while the Roussanne adds a curious herby tang to the finish. Try this will slow-cooked lamb.

Cabernet Sauvignon is often referred to as the King of Grapes and with good reason. The most important grape in Bordeaux, it produces noble wines across the globe including eye-wateringly expensive examples such as California’s Screaming Eagle – a snip at £3,000+ a bottle. Affordable fine wines can be found, however, such as the Ventisquero Grey Cabernet Sauvignon (Adams £17.99). Varietal Cabernet can be green and aggressive, but the Grey is plump and gentle. The nose mixes blackcurrants, mint and fresh tobacco, while the silky palate is packed with black and red berries with peripheral flavours of chocolate, cream and sweet spices.

My next choice is a wine that’s helped cement Chile’s reputation as a fine wine nation, Sena (£115 MWH Wine). Sena was created in 1995 by Robert Mondavi (the godfather of Californian wine) and Eduardo Chadwick (Chilean wine legend) with a view to creating a world-beating wine. Since then, Sena has scooped many accolades and ranks amongst the world’s finest wines. Crafted from a blend of Cabernet, Carmenere, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc, it’s a wine that delivers complexity, sumptuous quantities of red and black fruits overlain with smoke, minerals, and a fleshy, meaty tone to the finish. This is a wine I would urge every serious wine lover to try at least once, as it’s an unforgettable experience.

And finally, we have the Vinedo Chadwick (£225 Cru Wine). This is a seriously fine wine and while it has a serious price tag, to my mind it is worth the money. The Vinedo Chadwick is a wine that sets out to be the best of the best, and it’s hard to argue that the wine-making team haven’t achieved this. The 2021 has been given perfect 100-point scores by some of the world’s greatest critics and even at this tender age, it’s hugely impressive. Inky in colour, much swirling and breathing coaxed red berries, earth, smoke and eucalyptus from it. The mouthfeel is glorious. It’s rich, yet poised, the tension between super-ripe blackcurrants, mulberries, blueberries and plums and tangy raspberry acidity is awesome. Impeccably well-structured, the tannins are firm but round and support the impressive length that suggests a very long life ahead.

I hope you’ll try some of these extraordinary Chilean wines – if you’re opening any Sena I’m free to help pour!

 
Next time out I’ll look at some of the best wines from Spain.

Cheers!

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Diwali recipes & takeaway competition

Liz Nicholls

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Food & Recipes

November is Diwali month so what better time to shine a light on these recipes from Atul Kochhar…? You can also win a takeaway from one of his Bucks restaurants

Diwali is one of India’s most important festivals – a time to celebrate the triumph of light over darkness, knowledge over ignorance, and good over evil.

Mattan (meat) pepper fry

This curry – a common recipe among the Christians of Kerala, where it is most likely made with mutton or goat – has very little gravy.

Ingredients:
• 600g boneless lamb rump or neck fillet
• 2.5cm piece of fresh ginger
• Four garlic cloves
• Two onions
• Two teaspoons of black peppercorns, to taste
• Fresh coriander leaves
• 200ml water
• Two teaspoons of white wine vinegar
• One heaped tablespoon of coconut oil
• 5 fresh or dried curry leaves
• Two teaspoons of onion paste
• ½ teaspoon ground turmeric
• Sea salt

Method:
1. Assemble all the ingredients and equipment before you begin. You need a spice grinder or pestle and mortar, a large heavy-based saucepan with a lid, a sieve and a large sauté or frying pan.
2. Cut the lamb into bite-sized pieces, trimming and discarding any fat, then set aside. Peel and finely chop the ginger. Peel and thinly slice the garlic cloves. Peel, halve and thinly slice the onions. Put the peppercorns in a spice grinder, or use a pestle and mortar to finely grind or crush. Rinse and chop enough coriander leaves to make about 1 tablespoon.
3. Put the lamb, water, vinegar, ½ teaspoon of the freshly ground pepper and ½ teaspoon of the salt in the saucepan. Cover the pan and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and leave the meat to simmer a to a slow boil for 8 minutes. Strain the meat, reserving the cooking liquid.
4. Meanwhile, melt the coconut oil over a medium-high heat in the sauté pan. Add onions, curry leaves, ginger, garlic, a pinch of salt, and stir until the onions are lightly coloured. Add the onion paste and turmeric and stir in for 30 seconds.
5. Add the meat and stir in half the reserved cooking liquid, which will be absorbed and evaporate quite quickly. Add the remaining liquid a little at a time, stirring, until it mostly evaporates. With the last addition, the gravy should almost be like a thin paste coating the lamb and the lamb should be tender.
6. Stir in 1 teaspoon of the freshly ground pepper, adjust the seasoning with salt, if necessary, and continue stirring until all the liquid evaporates. Sprinkle with about ½ teaspoon of the ground pepper and the chopped coriander leaves just before serving.

Panch Phoron Gobi Aloo
(Bengali cauliflower & potatoes)

Here’s a variation of the curry house favourite, gobi aloo. This is from the coastal region of Bengal; you might have never have had this classic combo with pickling spices and final finish of fresh ginger.

Ingredients:
• 12 well-scrubbed small new potatoes (see Atul’s tip, below)
• Two thin short green chillies
• Two garlic cloves
• Two tablespoons mustard oil
• 1¼ teaspoons panch phoron 
• 2 teaspoons ground coriander
• ½ teaspoon red chilli powder, or to taste
• ½ teaspoon ground turmeric
• 425ml water
• ½ head of cauliflower, about 400g
• One lemon
• 2cm piece of fresh ginger
• Fresh coriander leaves
• Sea salt

Method:
Assemble all the ingredients and equipment. You need a large sauté or frying pan with a lid.

1. Quarter the potatoes lengthways. Remove the stalks from the chillies, if necessary, then halve lengthways. Peel and thinly slice the garlic.
2. Heat the mustard oil over a medium-high heat in the pan. Add the garlic and stir around to flavour, it doesn’t need to colour. Add the chillies and panch phoron. Stir until the seeds crackle.
3. Add the potatoes, coriander, chilli powder and turmeric. Season with salt and stir for 30 seconds to cook the spices so the potatoes get coated. Watch closely so the spices do not burn.
4. Stir in the water and bring to the boil. Lower the heat to medium, cover the pan and leave the potatoes to bubble for 12 minutes, or until they are three-quarters cooked.
5. Meanwhile, cut the cauliflower into bite-sized florets, discarding outer leaves & core. Squeeze one tablespoon lemon juice. Peel and finely chop the ginger. Rinse and chop enough coriander to make about 1½ tablespoons. Set all these aside separately.
6. When the potatoes are almost cooked, stir in cauliflower and cook over a high heat for 6 minutes, stirring occasionally, until both are tender, but the cauliflower is still holding its shape.
7. Stir in the lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of the ginger and 1 tablespoon of the chopped coriander, and add salt, if necessary. Sprinkle with the remaining ginger & coriander just before serving.

Atul’s time-saving tip

I buy well-scrubbed small new potatoes when cooking this dish, so all I have to do is quarter them. If your potatoes are larger, however, cut the potatoes into 1cm dice so they cook quickly.

Hyderabadi Sour Fish Khatti Machhi (Serves four)

This is a very simple recipe, and one of the quickest to cook in the book. I’ve deliberately left the skin on the sea bass fillets. I know a lot of cooks would be tempted to remove the skin, but I enjoy eating fish with the skin, and it saves you time when preparing the ingredients. In Hindi, khatti means ‘sour’, and the sharpness of this recipe comes from the tomatoes and a little lemon juice.

Ingredients:
• 4 large sea bass fillets, skin on
• 1 lemon
• 2 tablespoons Ginger-Garlic Paste
• ½ teaspoon red chilli powder, or to taste 
• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
• vegetable oil
• ¼ teaspoon fenugreek seeds 
• 350ml passata
• 10 fresh or dried curry leaves
• sea salt
• fresh coriander sprigs, to garnish

Method:
Assemble all the ingredients and equipment before you begin. You need a non-reactive bowl, a saucepan and a large non-stick sauté or frying pan.

1. Cut the fillets in half, then place them in the bowl. Squeeze in 2 tablespoons of lemon juice and add the ginger-garlic paste, chilli powder and turmeric. Season with salt and use a spoon to gently stir together so all the pieces are well coated with the paste-like marinade. Set aside to marinate while you prepare the gravy.
2. Heat 1 tablespoon of the vegetable oil over a medium-high heat in the saucepan. Add the fenugreek seeds and fry until they become darker in colour. Add the passata and curry leaves. Season with salt, reduce the heat to medium and leave the gravy to simmer while you fry the fish.
3. Heat enough vegetable oil to thinly cover the bottom of the frying pan over a high heat. Add the fillets coated in the marinade, skin side down, and fry for 2 minutes, or until the skin is browned.
4. Turn the fillets over and reduce the heat to medium. Pour the gravy into the pan around the fillets and leave to simmer until the flesh is opaque and cooked through. Take care not to over-cook them. Adjust the seasoning with salt, if necessary. Garnish with coriander sprigs and serve.

Atul’s time-saving tip

If I hadn’t included passata in this recipe, it would have been necessary to blanch, peel and de-seed the tomatoes before puréeing and sieving them. This is a much quicker way to achieve the sour tomato gravy.

Atul’s restaurant & takeaway competitions

Each of Atul Kochhar’s award-winning Bucks restaurants’ styles are reflected through the takeaway options, cooked in the restaurant kitchens to the same exacting standards as the dishes eaten in the restaurant experience in the comfort of their own homes. Takeaways are ordered for online via each website for collection only – but they will also be available via Deliveroo too.

Vaasu, Marlow

Known for its stunning pan-Indian food, Vaasu’s takeaway collection is available to collect from the restaurant, comprising a selection of highlights from the a la carte menu. Choose from the likes of Kashmiri chicken tikka marinated with fennel and saffron, finished in the clay oven for results impossible to achieve at home; Goan fish or prawn curry; braised lamb Parsi curry with sweet apricots, brown onion and coriander korma; and much more.  

A selection of sweet treats are also offered, including crispy apple jalebi scented with cardamom and saffron, Atul’s special cheesy chocolate fondue, chocolate brownie with fresh berry salsa and vanilla cream, gulab jamun and rice pudding crowned with lemon jam and raspberry dust. 

Hawkyns, Amersham

A destination Indian restaurant in the picturesque town of Old Amersham, Hawkyns offers sensational cuisine to takeaway, available for collection. Here the takeaway menu comprises a broad selection of highlights plus a concise drinks selection and set menus especially devised by chef Atul Kochhar. Set menu bundles include a meat bundle for two, a veg bundle for two and a vegan bundle for two, all featuring a generous selection of starters, mains, sides, breads and desserts. Expect the likes of butter chicken and railway lamb curry; paneer tikka masala and Bombay aloo; or vegetable jalfrezi and carrot and beans foogath.  

Riwaz, Beaconsfield

Celebrating the culinary history and traditions of India, Riwaz’s takeaway menu is available to collect from the restaurant. The menu features a broad selection of menu highlights, including tandoor-grilled king prawns in Ajwain, chilli, garlic and mustard oil; saag gosht with Welsh slow-cooked lamb; Dum biryani with chicken, vegetables or lamb, and much more. Various set menu bundles are also available, including a meat bundle for two, a veg bundle for two and a vegan bundle for two, all featuring a generous selection of starters, mains, sides, breads and desserts.  

We’ve teamed up with Atul’s team to offer five lucky winners a takeaway. NB you must be local to Bucks for collection. Click here to enter

For more info about Atul Kochhar & his award-winning restaurants please visit Atul Kochhar.

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Sale e Pepe’s iconic Italian recipes

Liz Nicholls

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Food & Recipes

With neighbourhood trattoria Sale e Pepe recently being given a complete refurb ahead of its 50th anniversary next year, we’re saving up a taste of la dolce vita for those seeking a fresh at-home recipes to keep those summer vibes going!

The Knightsbridge staple invites lovers of traditional Italian food to take their hand at their classic dishes. Ideal for hosting across the summer period, the illustrious restaurant has always attracted a jet-setting crowd, loved by the likes of Rod Stewart, Sir Roger Moore, Priscilla Presley and Ringo Starr.

Sale E Pepe prides itself in serving the very produce, try your hand at their infamous Costaletta di Vileto Milanaise – pan-fried veal chop with breadcrumbs which is signature to the Lombardy region or the Camparian Linguine all’ Aragosta – Linguine with lobster, cherry tomatoes, basil and garlic. Opt for a more light dish of Insalata di Granchio – crab and avocado salad with tomato concassé, spring onions, chives and lemon dressing, bringing the Italian summer to the table.

Costaletta di Vileto Milanaise

Ingredients:
• 500g one bone in veal cutlets about 3/4 thick, trimmed or you can ask the butcher to make flattened for you than will be easier to prepare at home,
• Three eggs
• 100gm breadcrumbs granules
• 80 gm all-purpose flour
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 240g clarified butter (recipe is mentioned below)
• One lemon, quartered

Method:
1. Make two or three cuts on the edges of cutlet to keep them from curling up as they cook
2. Heat the clarified butter over medium high heat. The secret to cooking the meat is to cook it quickly at a very high temperature to seal the outside and create a crunchy breading while keeping the inside moist and juicy.
3. Whisk the eggs and place them in a shallow pan
4. Place each first into the flour, then the eggs bath and then finally the breadcrumbs as you go to ensure that they don’t fall off
5. Fry the cutlet for about 3 to 4 minutes on each side, then remove to a plate lined with paper towels and allow the extra butter to drain off
6. Season with salt and pepper to taste, then place on a baking sheet

Linguine all’ Aragosta

Ingredients:
• 600g Canadian lobster
• 80g linguine pasta
• 120g red cherry tomato
• 5g fresh basil leaves
• 18g garlic
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 45ml white wine
• 28ml extra virgin olive oil
• 5g mix micro herbs (optional)

Method:
1. Cover the bottom of a large frying pan with olive oil, chopped garlic, basil leaves and fry your cherry tomatoes together. Add stock, black pepper and fry for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally
2. Add the lobster tail and chunks and fry for 1 minute
3. Add the dry white wine and make sure to cook all the alcohol out and reduce until the sauce has thickened slightly
4. Cook your linguine or spaghetti in a LARGE pot of rapidly boiling salted water. Stir the pasta regularly and cook until al dente almost 5 to 6 minutes and using your spaghetti spoon lift, the cooked pasta out of the pot, allow the water to drain off and add it spoonful by spoonful straight into the pan of lobster pasta sauce
5. Toss well and serve garnished with the micro herbs

(Insalata di Granchio) crab & avocado salad

Ingredients:
• 45g diced tomatoes
• 85g freshly handpicked crab meat
• One ripe avocado
• 30ml fresh lime juice
• 55ml extra virgin oil
• 5g chipped chives
• 5g spring onion
• 1 gram or pinch of chilli powder
• Sea salt & pepper as per taste

Method:
1. First in a small bowl mix together avocado cubes, lime juice, diced tomato, chives, olive oil, salt & pepper, mix well and set aside.
2. Then repeat the same process and add crab meat, lime juice, diced tomato, chilli powder, chopped chives, spring onion, olive oil, salt & pepper, mix well and set aside.
3. Take a flat base plate, place the round shape ring in a centre and add avocado layer and add crab mixture for second layer up, garnish with olive oil & chopped chives.


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Ridgeview’s new autumn menu

Karen Neville

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Food & Recipes

Head to Rows & Vine restaurant at Ditchling Common for some sensational seasonal small plates & tapas style dishes

The seasonal and sensational new autumn menu has launched at Ridgeview’s recently opened Rows & Vine restaurant.

Nestled in the breath-taking South Downs, overlooking the oldest chardonnay vines, Rows & Vine serves affordable and seasonal small plates and tapas-style dishes. The dishes, all priced at £13 or under, are designed for sharing and pairing with the award-winning English sparkling wine. Favouring fresh, local, and sustainable produce, the menu is inspired by the seasons and the beautiful surroundings in the South Downs National Park.

Collaborating with local producers is of key importance to Ridgeview, so it’s partnered with local cheese and meat suppliers, to curate plates that pair very well with its home-grown sparkling wines.

Hero autumnal dishes include deliciously rich porchetta with seasonal apple relish, roasted squash arancini balls with parmesan and chorizo mayonnaise for the added kick, flavourful beef rib with sweet maple and paprika purée and autumnal tabbouleh with crisp kale. For more info, or to book a table visit The Rows & Vine Restaurant.

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Greyhound team are AA gold winners

Liz Nicholls

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Food & Recipes

Congratulations to the team at The Greyhound Inn in Letcombe Regis who have earned two rosettes and a four-star gold award plus a breakfast award in the latest AA Hospitality Awards.

Catriona Galbraith and the rest of the trusty Greyhound team know how it feels to be on the receiving end of warm praise, having won the loyalty of locals and visitors as well as a galaxy of awards including CAMRA pub of the year.

But an extra serving of praise goes to them all today, including Head Chef Martyn Sherriff and Sous Chef Attila Fulop, for winning two rosettes and a four-star gold award after a visit from discerning AA inspectors.

Catriona tells us: “Since opening almost eight years ago, The Greyhound Inn has strived to offer our guests a dining experience that will make them want to return again and again. Without being pretentious or formal, we look after our guests in a friendly and efficient way and serve food that we are extremely proud of. Receiving this award from the AA of two rosettes, on top of an entry in the Good Food Guide earlier this year, demonstrates our team’s commitment to creating a memorable experience for our guests which, to us, is the point of having a hospitality business.”

“Without being pretentious or formal, we look after our guests in a friendly and efficient way”

We enjoyed a taste of this award-winning hospitality at the weekend and will serve you a review in our next edition of Round & About, plus details about Christmas and NYE parties.

Meanwhile, book in to enjoy the six-course Autumn Tasting Menu on Thursday, 19th October with a wine flight of specially paired wines. For more details visit The Greyhound Inn or call 01235 771969.

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Adam Smith’s Peppered Venison dish recipe

Liz Nicholls

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Food & Recipes

Adam Smith, executive chef at Coworth Park in Ascot, shares his recipe for a seasonal game salad

This is a great dish showcasing some of my favourite autumnal ingredients. It’s simple to prepare in advance and although relatively light eating it’s also warm and comforting with the rich sticky figs and beautifully spiced vension.

Peppered venison salad, serves six

Ingredients

• 1kg venison loin
• 1tbsp black peppercorns
• 2tbsp pink peppercorns
• 1 star anise
• 1tbsp juniper berries
• 6 fresh figs
• 250g roast pecan nuts
• Selection of bitter leafs (red and white chicory, radicchio, frisse, Castro Franco)
• 120ml walnut oil
• 100ml rape seed oil
• 2 tbsp Dijon mustard
• 100ml cabernet Savion vinegar
• 200ml red wine
• 200ml ruby port
• 200g soft brown sugar
• 50g fresh ginger
• 2 star anise
• 6 cardamom pods
• 2 cloves
• 6 juniper berries

Peppered venison loin

• 1kg venison loin
• 1tbsp black peppercorns
• 2 tbsp pink peppercorns
• 1 star anise
• 1tbsp juniper berries
• 1tbsp Dijon mustard

Method

1. Roast all the spices in a dry pan, then into a pestle and mortar and crush them to a coarse powder
2. Season the venison loin with salt and sear in a hot pan, remove from the pan brush all over with the Dijon mustard and roll into the crushed spices
3. Cook in the oven at 180C until a core temperature of 48C is achieved
4. Remove from the oven and allow to rest at room temperature

Dressing

• 120ml walnut oil
• 100ml rape seed oil
• 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
• 100ml cabernet Savion vinegar

1. Whisk the Dijon mustard and the vinegar together in a round bottomed bowl
2. Combine the two oils and slowly add to the bowl ensuring to continually whisk to emulsify the dressing
3. Season with salt and pepper to taste

Port roast figs

• 6 fresh figs
• 200ml red wine
• 200ml ruby port
• 200g soft brown sugar
• 50g fresh ginger
• 2 star anise
• 6 cardamom pods
• 2 cloves
• 6 juniper berries

Method

1. Thickly slice the ginger and crack the cardamom pods and place into a pan with the cloves, star anise, soft brown sugar, red wine and port
2. Bring to the boil and reduce to a syrup
3. Pass through a fine sieve
4. Score the figs and drizzle in the syrup
5. Place into an oven at 180C and cook for around 4-5min
6. The timing will differ depending on the ripeness of your figs, you want the soft and sticky but still able to hold their shape

To serve

• Pick down and wash all of the bitter leaves in ice cold water, if you have a salad spinner, spin then dry
• Place the washed salad with ½ of the pecan nuts into a large salad bowl and dress generously with your walnut oil dressing
• Arrange these into your serving bowl
• Slice your peppered venison about 5mm thick then place on the top with the roast glazed figs
• Add the other ½ of the pecan nuts on top and add a little extra dressing if desired

Visit Coworth Park – 5-Star Luxury Hotel

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Full of beans

Karen Neville

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Food & Recipes

Remember when the only choice for a coffee was white or black? Times have changed and ordering a coffee is now akin to reciting War and Peace. However you like your caffeine shot (or not) support National Coffee Week this month

Cappuccino, latte, flat, white, Americano, affogato – however you like yours, as a nation, we in Britain drink around a whopping 95 million cups of coffee a day!

So, the only way to mark National Coffee Week, October 16th to 22nd, is by raising a cup in whichever style you prefer. The week is the biggest celebration of coffee, raising funds for Project Waterfall which brings clean drinking water to coffee growing communities.

Since 2011, the UK Coffee Week community has raised more than £800,00 for Project Waterfall, reaching over 45,000 people with clean drinking water, sanitation and education.

Funds raised during the 2023 campaign will support Project Waterfall’s latest project in the Berbere district of Ethiopia. The country is considered the biological and cultural home of coffee but 82% of households in the Berbere area use water from unprotected sources.

Working in partnership with the local government as well as WaterAid, Project Waterfall will build a solar powered multi-village gravity-flow water system, that will provide water to 40,000 people. The new infrastructure will be climate resistant and accessible to everyone in the area.

How can you get involved and do your bit to help? Hospitality businesses of all shapes and sizes fundraise by donating from every cup or bag of coffee sold, or by running events and competitions.

Whether you serve, sell, sip or roast the much-loved bean – which is actually a fruit – you can take part in UK Coffee Week and support coffee-growing communities. Among the vendors locally taking part are Fieldhouse Coffee, Rose Brae, Woodlands, Windlesham and COLCO Coffee, Unit 3, Manor Farm, Common Road, Eton Wick, Windsor. Explore their selection of hand roasted coffee from around the world including Colombian Speciality Coffee, Single Origin Coffees and Premium House Blends. A percentage of their coffee proceeds goes to support great causes, why not grab a bag today?

Also participating is Art Cafe, Bonn Square, Oxford where, as the name suggests you can appreciate some work from local artists as you enjoy your cuppa.

There are more coffee shops than you can shake a bean at so why not try one of these which serve up a little something extra?

In picturesque Ripley, you’ll find Nest Home & Café, part café, part home / gift shop with a reputation for excellent service, world-class coffee and eclectic shopping. All food and drink is served in recyclable trays, cutting down on waste too. You’re also welcome to take along your own favourite cup or mug and enjoy a discount on your coffee.

Here’s a coffee shop with a difference, the Terrace Lounge Coffee Shop at Harry Edwards Healing Sanctuary in Shere boasts stunning views over the Surrey Hills. Recently opened, could there be a better way to enjoy some ‘me time’ in stunning surroundings and while you’re there why not combine it with some healing?

Described as a ‘curious coffee shop and gift shop’, Hemingways in Haslemere has found a special place in the hearts of locals with its ‘marvellous mix of old and new, classy and comfortable, lively and relaxing with a wonderfully eclectic decor and range of gifts and homeware that combine to make a special and favourite place for all those who visit’. It is also heavily involved in the community, supporting many local charities and organisations.

Cappuccino with a cavapoo? No problem at Cantine in Fleet. The dog-friendly café offers a warm welcome to our furry friends as well as their owners with a delicious range of sweet treats and a recently launched full English breakfast to tuck into too. Take your pooch along and they can tuck – or lick – into dog ice cream and the popular Puppicino treat too. There’s local art on the walls and regular quiz nights too to test your little grey cells.

Never has the saying from little acorns been more apt for Acorns Coffee Roastery which operates from The Shed in Bordon. From the early days as a mobile coffee shop in a converted horsebox, the team and passion for coffee grew with the addition of Head Roaster Matt whose knowledge means you can now enjoy Acorns small batch roasted coffee anywhere in the country.

At Coffee Under Pressure, the two baristi who created it believe that great coffee is an affordable luxury, but also an everyday need which is why, when visiting the shop in St Mary’s Butts, Reading you will find passionate and knowledgeable baristi with attention to detail and persistence for the best brew every time. Chat to them about how to explore new flavours and brewing methods and ask every detail you wish to know about their coffees or teas.

All things gluten-free are celebrated at YayLo in Cross Street, in Reading town centre. You may recognise the only gluten-free coffee shop in town, it was previously the award-winning Nibsy’s. Now under a new name and new ownership, it is proud to be gluten-free and serving up ‘awesome-licious gluten-free’ pastries, donoughts and cakes alongside its equally delicious coffee.

Robyn’s Nest at Moss End Cafe, Warfield, isn’t just offering great tasting coffee and cakes, during the pandemic they provided cake boxes for the NHS and keyworkers and now offers business networking events as well as a play area so you can enjoy your coffee – while it’s hot – while your little ones play.

The Collective in Church Road, Caversham, is a speciality coffee shop, licensed cafe, lifestyle store and grocer with community at its core. It has won awards for bringing together a love of incredible coffee, great quality food, design and living well into one destination.

If it’s all about the coffee for you Spoon in Duke Street, Henley, proudly serves Extract Coffee. Ethically sourced, kind to farmers and utterly delicious. Often dubbed ‘the best coffee in Henley’, they sell pre-ground Original Espresso in-store so you can take Extract’s heavenly blend home with you to sip at your leisure.

The Pantry in Thatcham has its own specially blended coffee from their partner coffee supplier Kingdom Coffee. The Pantry Blend is a full bodied, smooth coffee with a creamy mouth feel and notes of berry fruits, chocolate and molasses. Sounds delicious and each and every cup is expertly crafted for you by the trained staff making it stand out in so many ways.

A former Wesleyan chapel is the location for Community Hub cafe at City Arts.The barista coffee machine and home made cakes sit alongside the current art exhibition. Cakes are baked by local bakers and can be enjoyed with great barista coffee and a selection of high quality teas. Browse and buy the unique cards on sale from local artists too.

Elaine’s in The Courtyard, Hungerford and Hughendon Yard, Marlborough believe everyone should be able to eat out knowing they are able to choose food that is right for them and is delicious and nutritious, no matter what diet they are committed to. Alongside wholesome fare, you can enjoy your coffee in a relaxed and welcoming setting.

The award-winning Hampstead Norreys Community Shop is a true gem on a mission to serve its community in every way. Stocking essential and speciality groceries, it champions sustainable and locally made products not least in its cafe where you’ll feast on delicious home-made food, barista coffee and other beverages.

If it’s location you’re after while you sip on your coffee, then head to The Tea Shop by the canal at Newbury, this can be found in a unique grade II listed building on the Kennet and Avon waterway.

Coffee for a cause is the idea dreamed up by James at Coffi Lab opposite the Town Hall in Marlborough. The venture combines his love of Labradors, creating a coffee brand and making a difference. The cafes, of which there are eight, are not a dog café as such, but open venues; a focal point of leafy neighbourhoods where family and friends come together without having to leave their canine companions at home. As it says on the website, Coffi Lab is ‘driven by a desire to do good’ and to that end they have so far raised in excess of £60,000 for Guide Dogs for the Blind.

Cappuccino with a cavapoo? The Dog’s Spot in Abingdon is a unique place for dogs and their owners. A place to meet, socialise, enjoy good coffee and cakes, in a relaxed dog-centred space with its own doggy menu. In the shop they offer a range of high-quality food, treats and accessories, as well as being home to grooming spa.

Oxford’s Grand Cafe can stake a unique claim to fame – it is housed in the spot where the very first coffee shop in England was founded in 1650. According to a number of sources, including Samuel Pepys, an entrepreneur named Jacob established the first English coffee house in High Street almost 400 years ago. There’s a challenger for this accolade with Queen’s Lane Coffee House, established in 1654, saying it is ‘the longest established coffee house in Europe’. The difference? Queen’s Lane has always been a coffee shop whereas the Grand Cafe has actually been a variety of businesses over the years. Both have great historical value and serve an exceptional cup of coffee and more!

Society Café is an independent speciality coffee shop in the heart of Oxford city centre. Their focus is on making great coffee sourced directly from the best coffee producing farms in the world and roasted by the best roasters in the world. Try a cup and see.

Location, location, location – one of the best is surely that occupied by The Waterfront Cafe at Benson. Relax with your brew on the vast decking as you watch the boats gliding up and down the river. The perfect spot to watch the world go by. The decking and covered outside areas are also dog friendly.

Head to the Vale and Download Museum in Wantage for coffee and a little history or for some rustic charm how about Cogges Kitchen in the old milking parlour at Cogges Manor Farm in Witney. Tuck in to tasty cake with a good cup of locally roasted coffee.

And if you like your coffee among plants then head to Root One Garden Centre in Brightwell-cum-Sotwell where you can enjoy some delicious sweet treats too.

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Eight great Rioja wines to enjoy

Round & About

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Food & Recipes

Discover a different style of Rioja wine. Round & About’s wine columnist Giles Luckett recommends 8 Riojas that offer a new perspective on this classic region…

I was sharing a bottle of Rioja with a friend of mine a few days ago, and he asked, ‘Don’t you ever get tired of Rioja?’ I made to reply, ‘Oh no, I love Chilean wines’ (a sommelier once asked him which Rioja he’d like, and he said ‘A Chilean one’), but he gave me pause for thought. I do drink a lot of Rioja, and I never get tired of it. Why? Because there’s an amazing diversity of styles and flavours on offer. You could drink nothing but Rioja for a week and twice on Sundays without repeating the experience.

So, for all you Rioja wine lovers – Chilean and the more commonly seen Spanish ones, sorry, Ed! – here are eight expressions of this majestic wine that I would urge you to try.

I’ve mentioned my love of white Rioja before. Once something best avoided, it’s now one of the best value white wines you can find, with the top wines – Contino Blanco (Noble Grape £23.99) or Viña Tondonia Blanco Reserva (£115 Berry Bros & Rudd) – fit to rank with the world’s finest whites.

My current favourite is the Muga Blanco (Majestic £12.99). This is a modern-style white Rioja in that it’s fermented in steel and then sees only three months of oak ageing. The result is a fresh, tangy wine that offers barrel loads of peach, spiced pears, grape and grapefruit flavours with just a hint of cream.

Rioja isn’t famous for its sparkling wines, which is a shame as some of the best Spanish sparkling wines I’ve ever had have been from here. Take the Azabache Brut Metodo Tradicional Rioja, Fincas de Azabache (Corks £22.95). There are only 8,500 bottles of this beauty made each year, and it’s a once-tried, never-forgotten experience. Produced from white Tempranillo (who knew? I didn’t) in the traditional method, this is a wine that combines vibrancy with complexity. The nose is fruit-driven, with all manner of yellow berries jostling for your attention, while in the mouth, citrus mingles with yeast against a backdrop of baked apples. This is a great aperitif or works equally well with smoked fish.

Rosé Rioja, or rosado to give its proper title, is almost always great fun but rarely serious. A big exception to this rule is the Alegra de Beronia (Majestic £11.99). It’s worth buying just for the bottle, which is just as elegant and refined as the wine inside. Blushing amber pink, this Garnache-Tempranillo blend offers a rose and cheery nose, while the soft, generous palate combines strawberries and red cherries with notes of peach and nectarine. Gentle as a summer breeze, try this on its own or with fresh seafood or lightly cured pork.

Rioja is big on value for money, and if you’re looking for a lighter style with more personality than the Groucho Club on a Saturday night, look to the Cune Ciranza (Sainsbury’s £10). I was introduced to this when I was at Harrods’ wine department, and it blew my young palate away. More years than I care (or can) remember, it’s still a firm favourite. Mid-red, it’s bouquet is of crushed black and red berries with a hint of vanilla and smoke. Fruity and forward on the palate, it has all the classic Rioja elements of berry fruits, spices, orange zest, and cream but is presented in an easy-going, rounded, gentle style.

Another wine that shows Rioja’s eminent affordability is the Wine Society’s Rioja (£8.50). This is a very traditional style of Rioja, with plenty of spicy American oak, plenty or extraction, and a goodly quantity of stewed black fruits, given a lift by highlights of Seville oranges and cranberries. Smooth as silk and rich as Bezos, this is another great wine to keep to hand, and at £8.50, it’s worth joining the Society to get it.

Up to now, the wines I’ve recommended have been produced from classic blends, such as Tempranillo and Garnacha or Viura and Malvasia. My next recommendation is both a varietal, made from a single-grape type, and made from one of the less well-known Rioja varieties. It’s the Beronia Graciano (Vinissimus £20). I warn you now, this is not for the faint of heart; this is a Rioja for those looking for power and intensity. Red black, the nose is a dark, brooding affair with stewed black fruits, earthy spices and woodsmoke. The palate is weighty, concentrated, and broad. Prunes, blackberries, herbs, boysenberries, vanilla, charcoal, and a lift of lavender make for a fascinating mouthful. This is a wine that’s capable of long ageing but is sensational now with roasted meats, strong hard cheeses, and pâté.

My next wine is a Riojan legend, the Imperial Reserva 2018 (Waitrose £26.99). Imperial is a wine that blends tradition with modernity and offers one of the great Rioja wine experiences. A blend of Tempranillo, Graciano and Mazuelo, aged in a combination of American and French oak, freshness and depth combine here in a wonderfully stylish way. The nose brims with zesty red and black berries, which are pinned back by smoke, cream and violets. At first sip, it comes across as clean, delicate, light even, but the blackcurrant and bramble fruit’s piercing intensity is soon backed up by notes of roasted meat, minerals, dried cherries, sandalwood, orange zest and green herbs. A fine wine by anyone’s definition, this too will develop over decades.

I’ll finish with a flourish, with the Coscojares Vindedo Singular Rioja, Fincas de Azabache (Corks and Cru £47.50), which shows how Rioja’s Garnacha (France’s Grenache) can play the starring role. Made from a tiny parcel of vines on a 1.9-hectare vineyard, all of which were planted before 1955 at high altitude, the results is a wonderfully subtle, complex wine that oozes class and complexity. Mid-red, it offers a combination of red cherries, dried strawberries, and damsons, with intriguing touches of aged balsamic vinegar, pepper, caramel, and raspberries. Ideal with everything from belly pork to goats’ cheese, it will develop beautifully over the coming decade.

Well, that’s it for now. I do hope you’ll try some of these fantastic wines so you can enjoy the many faces of Rioja.

Next time out, Chile. No, really, it will be Chile!

Cheers,

Giles

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Homage to the wines of Yalumba

Round & About

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Food & Recipes

Our wine columnist Giles Luckett explores the harvest of a magical region of Australia

Hello. A few years ago I was fortunate enough to go on a press trip to Australia. Over the course of three weeks, we toured many of this amazing wine country’s regions, visited some extraordinary wineries and met some of the most passionate, innovative, and creative winemakers I’ve ever encountered.

While I discovered the weird (Lucy Margaux’s ‘natural’ wines) and the wonderful (BK Wines’ Savagnin, one of my abiding memories was our trip to Yalumba. This historic, family-owned producer is Australian wine royalty and our extensive tasting was fantastic, revealing a winery that did things its way and one that wasn’t afraid to take risks in the pursuit of excellence.

I recently had the opportunity to taste a range of Yalumba’s wines again (highlights below), some of which I knew and some of which were new to me. I was delighted to see their innovative spirit continue – the Roussanne was a lovely surprise – and I asked Yalumba’s winemaker Louisa Rose to tell me a little more about their wines…

Louisa Rose – head of winemaking at Yalumba

Q. You make a wide range of wines – from unoaked dry whites to fortified wines – what’s the uniting philosophy behind them?

“We seek to sustainably craft wines that reflect a thoughtful interpretation of grape, terroir and house style. Wines of individuality that are both timeless and contemporary. Wines of conviction and provenance. This philosophy spans our full offering, but there is a tailored approach to meet market requirements. We focus on natural appellation, a long view of the wine-style evolution, akin to a slow wine philosophy. At the same time, we are responsive to market opportunities by way of ‘new’ varieties, styles and fashions, whilst still holding true to our legacy and beliefs, raising the bar, and building value.”

Q. Your wines span the classics – Shiraz, Cabernet, Grenache etc. – but I’ve seen new Mediterranean varieties coming through such as Tempranillo and Pinot Grigio. Are you producing these as you have the right sites for them or is there another reason?

“Shiraz, Cabernet and Grenache are varieties that came to Australia early in the history of white settlement. The Barossa is home to the oldest vineyards of all three of these varieties in the world – still growing and producing wines, (Shiraz planted 1843, Grenache 1848, Cabernet 1888). This says something about the suitability of the sites we have to those varieties. At the same time Australian winemakers like to trial new things and experiment. Much of this work does not result in new wines necessarily, but it all helps influence our thoughts and practices. At Yalumba we are fortunate to have a wonderful nursery; a world-class nursery that grows healthy vines for vineyard expansions and is set up to propagate ‘new’ varieties when they come out of quarantine. We have trialled many varieties over the years, and some we like enough to take to the next stage after experimentation. Viognier, Pinot Grigio and Tempranillo are examples of this. Ultimately, they do well as they are suited to the sites we plant them, but the only way to find out what the right sites are is trial and error. It’s probably not surprising that many of the varieties we are looking at in the nursery are particularly suited to warm climates.”

Q. The recent vintage was one of the most challenging of recent years for many. How did you find it and aside from being of high quality, how would you describe the vintage’s character?

“2023 was challenging in the Barossa due to the wetter-than-usual spring conditions, which resulted in a later-than-usual start to the season, and ultimately a later-than-usual vintage. As the ripening gets later in the season, the days get shorter, and the ripening slows down even more. This can be a challenge then to get the grapes growing in the later ripening sites fully ripe. Luckily the season was kind to us and we had good warm weather into Autumn that got most of the grapes to their ideal place. We are very happy with the quality, across the varieties and styles. The whites loved the cooler season retaining good acidity and aromatics, and the reds had plenty of stress-free ‘hang time’ to get flavour and tannin ripeness.”

Q. Are there any vines you’re thinking of adding or would like to add? I had some excellent Pinot Nero, Nero d’Avola, and Arneis the last time I was in Australia.

“We are always thinking! There are a few things in our minds and vineyards, but from thinking about importing a new variety to having something ready to drink is at least a 10-year process… so patience really is a virtue.”

Q. How are you dealing with climate change? Some of the winemakers I’ve spoken to have expressed concerns about conditions becoming more difficult and growing seasons significantly shorter. Are you ‘going up or going south’ or are you trying to deal with the changing conditions with things like more canopy management and other vineyard techniques?

“Australia and the Barossa is used to extremes of climate, and we have many management techniques in our vineyards to mitigate, particularly against heat. Not that we are not concerned about climate change, particularly when it comes to water availability, but we know that we can make wines that are great expression of our region(s) in the cooler (like 23) and warmer seasons.

“Some of the things we do in the vineyards to buffer them against temperature changes include, using mulches under vine, growing grasses between the rows to keep the environment cooler and stop reflection of heat, increasing biodiversity in the vineyard, changes in trellis design and canopy management to keep grapes shaded by the leaves, and even using ‘sunscreen’. The sunscreen is kaolin clay, mixed in water and sprayed on the leaves. It is very effective in stopping burning of the leaf tissue in heat waves. Our old vines, which have so much of their biomass under the ground, are also buffered against day-to-day weather events more than younger vines maybe. Increasing biodiversity in vineyards and surrounds, and increasing soil carbon and microflora should also help the vines increase their natural resilience.

“One of the very tangible things we are doing to combat climate change is actively measuring and reducing our greenhouse gas emissions as Silver Members of the International Wineries for Climate Action (IWCA) is a collaborative working group of wineries committed to reducing carbon emissions across the wine industry. Currently over 40 wineries from nine countries are working together on this, in partnership with the United Nations Race to Zero campaign.”

Q. You still make a range of of fortified. Is this a heritage thing or do they find a ready market?

“We do still make a little bit of fortified wine. There is certainly a market for it, but it is also a heritage thing.”

Q. If you had to pick one of your wines to drink which would you choose and why?

“This is an impossible question without context… where am I… who am I with… what am I eating… how do I feel? Maybe I will just have a glass of our Tricentenary (planted 1889) Grenache while I wait for the answer!

GL: Thanks, Louisa. On the basis of my recent tasting, I’m with you on the Tricentenary.

Yalumba wines you must try

While I’ve never had a bad wine from Yalumba, there are some that have consistently stood out for me, or, in the case of the Roussanne, which were new and head-turning. So, here are my current loves from an impressive Yalumba’s range.

I’ll start my recommendations with the Y Series Chardonnay (winedirect £11.30). I always think it’s a bold move to make an unoaked Chardonnay. Partly as I think most consumers expect Chardonnay to be wooded – especially when it comes to New World examples – and because you need to be sure your fruit’s got the character to pull off a solo performance. The Y Series pulls it off in style. The nose combines freshness with tropical fruit and a subtle touch of vanilla, while on the palate the flavours of red apple, peach, pear and grapefruit are lively, intense, and mask of oak, seem more focused, and pure. Try this with oily fish, pork and seafood.

Yalumba have a reputation for creating great wines from Rhône varieties, and while their Viognier and Grenache garner much of the critics’ applause they have other wines that are equally exciting. Their Eden Valley Roussanne (winedirect £15.75) is a fascinating wine. Straw green-gold, the bouquet offers camomile, rose petals, herbs and (to me at, least) green wood. The palate is fresh and clean, but has an underlying richness as flavours as diverse as white peach, vanilla, orange peel, citrus and almonds come together to give an intriguing whole. This is a wine for the mind, one to sip and savour either on its own or with mushroom risotto, baked white fish or roasted artichokes.

The Virgilius Viognier (London End Wines £36) is acknowledged as a bright star in Yalumba’s firmament. The 2018 is a jaw-droppingly good wine, one that’s fit to rank with the Rhône’s finest Condrieu. Pale gold, the nose is a riot spiced apricots, cardamom, ginger, lychees and nose-tingling kumquats. This mighty mouthful’s creamy, unctuous body delivers wave after wave of apricot and dried pear fruit, mixed spice, orange peel, and honey, balanced and restrained by a fine, cleansing acidity. It’s big, bold, and beautiful, and has a long, golden future ahead of it.

And so to the reds. Australia makes some of the greatest varietal Cabernet Sauvignon in the world, with its Coonawarra wines being perhaps its finest of all. The Cigar Cabernet 2018 (Laithwaites £25) is certainly one of the best Cabernets I’ve had this year. Inky and brooding, the nose is piercing, full of fresh blackcurrants, green peppers, spices, cigar box, and raspberries but, as in the mouth, the more you investigate, the more you discover. Tones of the undergrowth, stewed plums, blackcurrant conserve, mint, bitter chocolate, earth and redcurrants all emerge. This powerful wine is lithe and elegant and is a must for red meats, sheep’s cheese, tomato-based dishes or on its own with good friends.

I couldn’t talk about Yalumba’s wines and not mention Grenache. For many years Grenache has been spoken of as having the potential to make Australia’s greatest reds. Alas, as in so many places, this vine’s natural generosity has been exploited leading to the productions of lakes of moderately coloured, moderately flavoured, massively alcoholic quaffing wines. Yalumba clearly respects it, and the Samuel’s Collection Barossa Bush Vine Grenache 2019 (Sarah’s Cellar £20) shows what it can do in the right hands. Mid-red, the aroma is a cheerful, inviting blend of cherries, raspberries and pomegranates, with floral and vanilla touches. The palate is juicy, plump, with all the hard edges of a ball pit. There’s weight to the cherry, strawberry, and blackberry fruit, and freshness is leant by a delicate red berry acidity. I’d serve this with roasted guinea fowl or gammon.

My penultimate choice reflects Australia’s brilliance at blends. Legend has it that winemakers put Cabernet with Shiraz as they had no Merlot, Australian Merlot being in the words of one famous Aussie winemaker, ‘a nice idea’. The Samuel’s Collection Barossa Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2018 (Vinum £16.70) is a Rhône blend (Mataro being France’s Mourvèdre) that delivers a wine with a lightness of touch that you’re unlikely to find in say, Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Peppered black and red fruits dominate the nose, while on the palate black cherries, prunes, raspberries, cranberries and spiced almonds come together to produce a wine of harmonious complexity. This is a wine I’ve always enjoyed with lamb and pheasant – the juicy, peppery tone just seems to go perfectly, but it’s great with barbecued foods and Hong Kong-style spare ribs.

I’ll finish on a high with a wine that’s produced from vines that date back to 1889. The Tri-Centenary Grenache (Vinum £40) is a wine like no other, and not just because of the 100-day post-fermentation maceration which (so I’m told) explains its extraordinary fine, velvety mouthfeel. This is undoubtedly one of the world’s great wine experiences. The aged, low-yielding Grenache vines give a super concentrated glassful of red and black cherries, prunes, chocolate, mint, dried strawberries and a lovely, mellow herb butter tone to the finish. Powerful enough to stand up to well-flavoured red meats and herby, softly spiced vegetarian dishes, this should be on every serious wine lover’s must-taste list.

Well, that’s it for now. Next time out I’ll run down my top ten Chilean wines.

Cheers!
Giles

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Emily Roux’s packed lunch recipes

Round & About

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Food & Recipes

Chef Emily Roux and Lexus have rustled up some posh packed lunches to enjoy in the car or on your next road trip!

Typical packed lunch fare such as pasties, soggy sandwiches and packets of crisps, can be bland and unappetising, so Lexus has teamed up with renowned chef Emily Roux to create some gourmet recipes that are perfect to eat in the car. Emily’s carefully crafted, delicious creations are easy to prepare and perfect if your picnic has been rained off, or if you’re waiting for a ferry or Eurotunnel.

Emily has honed her culinary skills in some of Europe’s most acclaimed restaurants and today is the co-owner of Caractère restaurant in London’s Notting Hill. She has used her expertise to create simple recipes that can add an element of delicacy and luxury to your packed lunch.

Wasabi crab tartlets

Ingredients:
• 250g double cream
• 70g milk
• 5g wasabi powder or paste
• 4g salt
• Two egg yolks
• One whole egg

Other ingredients:
• 270g pack of ready-made filo pastry
• 20g melted butter (for brushing)
• 100g picked crab (white, brown, or mixed according to preference)
• Zest of one lemon
• Fresh chives, mint leaves, coriander, or other herbs to suit personal taste
• Salt, pepper, olive oil

Method:

1. Preheat oven to 165°C fan (325°F/gas mark 4).
2. Brush each layer of filo with melted butter, stacking at least four sheets on top of each other.
3. Press and cut to the dimensions of your tart moulds.
4. Bake each filo stack in the moulds, with pressure on top, for between seven and 10 minutes (or until crispy and golden). To create the weighted pressure, ideally use the same-sized mould inserted one into the other; alternatively, baking beans will do the trick.
5. Leave to cool and lower the oven temperature to 165°C fan (325°F/gas mark 4).
6. Meanwhile, use a handheld blender to blitz all the wasabi cream ingredients together. Pass the mixture through a sieve for a smooth finish.
7. Once the tartlets have completely cooled, pour in the cream mix, filling to halfway.
8. Bake in the oven for a further 15 minutes until the mixture has cooked through and solidified.
9. Leave to cool – the tartlets are designed to be eaten at room temperature.
10. Season the crab to your taste and add any chopped fresh herbs that take your fancy.
11. Top tartlets with seasoned crab.

For a vegetarian alternative, replace the crab with mushrooms or courgette shavings and fresh herbs.

Dark chocolate crinkle cookies

Temperature and timing are very important with this recipe, so it is best to have all the ingredients weighed out before you start.

Ingredients:
• 200g dark chocolate, finely chopped
• 125g unsalted butter, diced
• 150g caster sugar
• 100g light brown sugar
• Two eggs
• 130g plain flour
• 3 tbsp cocoa powder
• 1 tsp baking powder
• 1tsp sea salt (for sprinkling)

Method:

1. Line two baking trays with baking paper and preheat the oven to 175°C, fan oven (350°F/gas mark 4).
2. Place the butter and chocolate in a basin over a bain marie or a saucepan of gently boiling water, ensuring the bottom of the bowl doesn’t touch the water. Stir occasionally until the mixture is fully melted.
3. Remove the bowl from the heat and set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together the eggs and sugars on medium-high speed, for five minutes.
4. Once the eggs and sugar have been mixing for exactly five minutes, pour in the chocolate mixture and mix for a further minute or so to combine.
5. Meanwhile, mix together the dry ingredients, then add to the mixer bowl, mixing briefly until just combined.
6. Use an ice cream scoop to form the cookies. The batter will be a little on the wet side. Make sure to leave plenty to space between each cookie on the baking tray, as they will spread as they cook.
7. Sprinkle each cookie with a little flaked sea salt before placing into the oven and baking for 12 minutes. The cookies will come out of the oven with a wonderful, crinkled look and a slightly domed shape. They will collapse a little as they cool but this helps form that perfect fudgy centre.
8. Sprinkle on a little sea salt to taste and let the cookies cool for at least 20-30 minutes.

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