Our wine columnist raises a glass to top tipples for the big day
Hello! Christmas is said to be the most wonderful time of the year and for wine lovers, I’d say that was definitely the case. It’s that time when you can pull a cork at 11am without people raising eyebrows (or organising an intervention!) and when everyday wines are replaced by fine ones. So, to give you some festive inspiration here are the six Christmas crackers I’ll be pulling out this year.
First up, a fizz. I’m convinced it’s no coincidence that traditional Christmas breakfast fare perfectly partners sparkling wine. Whether you’re having smoked salmon or eggs Benedict, a glass of fizz is a must. This year I’ll be toasting my smoked salmon on toast with a glass of Balfour 1503 (Majestic £21.99). This English sparkler is delightfully fresh, with plenty of green apples and citrus fruit offset by a pinch of pepper and a twist of thyme before the creamy, yeasty finish.
Suitably restored after my daughter’s excited 5.30am alarm bellow, It’s time to cook. For this I need a sip and run wine that will pique my appetite and year after year I turn to Tio Pepe (£12 Amazon). Quite the most civilised sherry I know, with its arresting, Sauvignon-like crispness, generous pear and melon fruit and creamy hit of yeast, it’s the perfect aperitif and goes brilliantly with all types of canapé and Christmas nibbles.
“There’s no point putting wine with Christmas pudding.”
Giles Luckett
Prep done, it’s time to take a well-earned break and share a glass with the family. This calls for Champagne and I’ll be serving Adnams’ 2012 Vintage Champagne (Adnams £41.99). 2012 was a fantastic year in Champagne, and the extended bottle age this has received has imparted a lovely softness that makes it a real crowd-pleaser. From its inviting nose of dried apples, honey, and lemon to its broad, generous, weighty palate of red apples, melon, peaches and digestive biscuits, this is a class act.
The turkey’s resting (no idea why, it’s me that’s done all the work) so it’s time to open the wines for the main event. I like to have a white and a red on the table, the latter being perfect for brown meat lovers, and this year I’ll have the Organist Chardonnay 2022 (£26 Ocado) and the Miguel Torres Vigno Carignan (Waitrose £13.99).
The Organist cleverly balances intense, bold, fruit tones of baked apple, peach, and grapefruit with a luscious, buttery vanilla imparted by the oak ageing. This allows it to balance the breast’s natural dryness while bringing out the flavour without overpowering it. The Vigno on the other hand is a dark, juicy wine whose ample blackberry and loganberry character cuts through leg and wing’s gaminess while its dried herb tones add another dimension to it.
And to finish. There’s no point putting wine with Christmas pudding. Trust me, I’ve tried everything from Sauternes to Madeira and all get lost like the one of the kid’s presents by Boxing Day. After the pud’s done, however, I’m going to settle myself down with a glass of the Ned Noble Sauvignon Blanc (Ocado £14). I tried this little sweetie earlier this year and I was hugely impressed. Opulently rich with flavours of barley sugar, pineapple, caramel, and dried pears, it has a cleansing gooseberry and lime acidity that stops it being cloying. Try this with full-flavoured cheeses – if you can find the room!
Well, here’s to a merry Christmas and a fantastic 2024.
Our wine columnist Giles Luckett raises a glass to the best Champagnes for party season
Hello! I’m in agreement with Andy Williams on Christmas being the most wonderful time of the year – though whether that time starts in October as the shops would have us believe is open to debate. What isn’t up for debate is that Christmas calls for champagne, and in this month’s column I’m running down my top 10 Christmas champagnes. So, without further ado…
10.Waitrose Non-Vintage (£21.99) – in my experience buyer’s own brand (BOB) champagnes can be disappointing – especially when it comes to supermarket wines. For some it seems the main aim is hitting a low price point with the wine’s quality coming second. Waitrose’s, however, is consistently excellent. Medium-bodied with lovely peach and apple fruit, a rich seam of creamy yeast runs through to the clean, red berry finish. This versatile wine makes for a stylish aperitif or goes well with white cheeses.
9.Graham Beck Pinot Noir Rosé (Majestic £18.99) – OK so technically this isn’t a champagne, unless the Champagne AC’s expansion has taken it to South Africa, but this is of champagne quality hence I’ve included it. Deep pink, the nose offers an abundance of blossoms, cherries, red fruits, limes and biscuity yeast. On the palate its weighty, fruit-laden – strawberries ad raspberries – with a lovely cherry sherbet finish. Serve this with smoked salmon or savoury canapés.
8. Adnams’ Selection Rosé Champagne (Adnams £33.99) – this is a champagne, and a very fine one at that. Produced by Champagne Blin, this is a traditional style of rosé, being full yet refined, fruity, yet dry. Opening with a nose of dried raspberries, strawberries, and buttery brioche, the palate offers pure, slightly savoury, raspberries and boysenberry flavours, followed by touch of blackcurrants and finishing with a taut, chalky finish. This is one of the best value champagnes I’ve seen in a long while.
7. Taittinger Prélude Grands Crus (Amazon £55) – Taittinger’s Prélude is a fascinating wine, and one that’s as much about the mind as the mouth. Made from 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir from Grand Cru vineyards, it all sounds very classical. The twist is that It’s aged for five years in Taittinger’s magnificent chalk cellars (much longer than usual) before release. This drives a seam of yeast and savoury minerals through the apple, citrus, rhubarb and peach fruits, adding even more complexity and depth. A stylish aperitif, we had this with turkey last year and it was sensational.
6. Gosset Petite Douceur Rosé (Waitrose £59.99) – Gosset’s champagnes are things of rare beauty – and I don’t just mean the bottles – but this was love at first sip. Gosset’s wines are all about precision. Tiny bubbles, perfectly delineated fruit and a balance a tight rope walker would envy. This new wine takes their wines in a new direction by subtly ramping up the sweetness. Now while this is by no means sweet, there’s a sweeter tone to the red and white berry fruit, as flavours of orange and kiwi come through, and there’s honeyed hint to the long, grapefruit and white peach finish. A superb after supper sipper, it would partner fruit tarts and petit fours perfectly.
5. Palmer & Co Blanc de Blancs Brut (Waitrose £53.99) – the best Blanc de Blancs champagnes – that is ones made from only white grapes – offer a subtler, more delicate style of wine. My recent encounter with the Palmer Blanc de Blancs reminded me that what these wines lack in power, they more than make up for in complexity. From the Palmer’s mid-gold body emerges notes of pears, hawthorn blossom and milk toast. Initially fresh and lively, it soon develops a quiet intensity in the form of baked apples, hazelnuts, peaches, and fresh vanilla cream. Sip this beauty on its own or with seafood.
4. Champagne Piaff Rosé (Master of Malt £52) has been another delightful discovery of 2023. A blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier, it has a very ‘winey’ tone. By that I mean that is it is both full-flavoured and well-structured like a still wine. Salmon coloured, the nose combines fresh strawberries and cherries with savoury strains of beetroot and bread. The palate’s broad, with complimentary tones of red berries, black cherries, and lemons coming together at the finish with a creamy yeast touch. Try this with cold cooked meats or fish pâté.
3. Next I want to recommend a wine by Bruno Paillard. I was going to say try their Première Cuvée (Vinum £46.40) but in the spirit of giving an alternative view, I’ve gone for the Bruno Paillard Blanc de Noir Grand Cru (Wanderlust Wine £66.90). Released this year, this is made from 100% Pinot Noir and marries power with precision. The nose offers an enticing notes of roses, pink grapefruit and smoke. The palate, while firm and weighty, is precise, rounded, and packed with fruits of the forest, cherries, and loganberries with a hint of clove. On the long finish are fresh red fruits with their signature shot of salinity.
2. Dom Perignon is one of those wines that every wine lover should try to try at least once. I’ve been fortunate to enough to have had multiple vintages of this exceptional wine, but my recent encounter with the Dom Perignon 2013 (Waitrose £195) left me feeling this was the best young Dom Perignon I’ve ever tasted. Generous and welcoming, everything is perfectly appointed and perfectly rounded. Soft as a satisfied sigh, the white plum, peach, and apricot fruit mingle seamlessly with gentle spices, highlights of alpine strawberries, and cool minty notes to crisp, nuanced finish. Try this on its own. Or better still, on your own!
1. While all the wines on this list are amazing, the Dom Ruinart 2010 (The Champagne Company £256) is just magnificent. The bouquet blends brioche, white berries, pears, and citrus with yeast. In the mouth, it’s extraordinarily rich, layered, and full, yet precise and poised. Creamy tones of melon, green pears, apricot, orange, vanilla, chalk, and gentle spices come together to create a mesmerising mouthful. Youthful and sleek, this has a long, long life ahead of it, but if like me you enjoy your champagne young and vibrant, then this is perfect. Yes, it’s expensive, but for those special occasions, to my mind, this is worth it.
Well, I hope you will have a fine Christmas and enjoy some fine wines along the way.
Sustainable local flower grower Natasha Humphries invites you to join her first wreath-making workshops in Hyde End
Natasha fell in love with gardening during lockdown, like many of us, but she decided to nurture this passion even further by learning how to grow sustainable British flowers.
Today she is proud owner of a new flower and foliage farm in the Chiltern Hills, a dedicated local farmer with a passion for cultivating scented roses, delicate flowers such as cosmos and beautiful dahlias, among others.
Now Natasha has decided to offer wreath workshops in her family home, using beautiful locally foraged foliage and berries.
“We use metal frames covered in moss, again sourced sustainably,” says Natasha. “We are serving mince pies, mulled wine and an atmosphere of Christmas cheer and music, of course. The workshops are small in size but cosy and friendly.
“My commitment to sustainability shines through we use a thoughtful mixture of compostable and biodegradable materials in our farming practices. I take pride in providing locally grown, vibrant blooms that haven’t been flown in, making them a perfect choice for eco-conscious events. The flowers not only add a touch of natural beauty but also a touch of environmental responsibility.
“I love everything about Christmas”
She adds: “This is my first year running a workshop but I’m Christmas crazy! I love everything about Christmas; I start decorating on 1st November. I love the colour, the lights, the time spent with family and every room has a different theme. I have three daughters and we love to make garlands and treats to gift our friends and family. It’s the best time of the year.
“I am nervous, though, as this is my first year growing flowers and my first workshop. I have been practising making many beautiful wreaths for friends and family so I will be ready.”
Natasha will hold wreath workshops 6.30-8.30pm on Wednesday 6th December, 12-2pm on Saturday 7th and / or 6.30-8.30pm on Sunday 8th December at Chiltern Flower Farm in Hyde End, with mulled wine and mince pies.
All tools and materials will be provided for customers to create a beautiful wreath to take home after a fun and relaxed workshop.
For more details please Whatsapp Natasha on 07525 773195 or else you can email [email protected]
Local charity Hearing Dogs for Deaf People urgently needs volunteers to step up as puppy parents to make a difference to people’s lives… Could you step up for this rewarding role?
Deafness is on the rise in the UK. By 2035, it is estimated that one in five British people (more than 15 million) will experience hearing loss.
Bucks-based UK charity Hearing Dogs for Deaf People trains clever dogs to alert deaf people to important and life-saving sounds including alarms, oven timers and even baby monitors. Its dogs also provide constant emotional support and companionship – helping deaf people to leave loneliness behind.
An increase in demand means Hearing Dogs for Deaf People urgently needs more local volunteer puppy trainers. The charity receives no government funding but is very fortunate to have a network of committed volunteers.
There are two types of volunteer roles the charity urgently needs to fill: permanent puppy trainers, who will look after a puppy for the duration of its training (usually between 18 months and two years), and short-term trainers to cover times when others are on holiday.
Linda Foster, who lives near High Wycombe, became a volunteer puppy trainer last year after retiring. “I started off by doing short-term cover when the other trainers were on holiday. I also went to puppy training sessions at The Grange,” says Linda. “Then in April, I started looking after Lola, a gorgeous 13-month-old black Labrador puppy, on a long-term basis. The experience has been very rewarding, and I’ve met some lovely people (and dogs).”
Without volunteers like Linda, the charity would not be able to help anywhere near as many people with hearing loss reconnect with life. Sixteen-year-old Zach Allen, from Chalfront St Peter, was diagnosed as deaf when he was three.
His mum Kirsty said: “Although we got support for Zach to attend a mainstream school, he still had challenges. I saw him lose confidence as he got older. Then, when Zach was eight, everything changed because Echo the hearing dog came into our lives.
“We took Echo into school so Zach’s year could meet him. As a teacher was about to tell the school about him, Zach stood up and introduced Echo to everyone. He explained how Echo alerts him by nudging with his nose. We all stood there open-mouthed at this confident child who had appeared from nowhere.”
Please visit hearingdogs.org.uk/volunteer or call 01844 348129.
Green-fingered Cathie Welch shares her tips on getting your garden ready for the colder months
I have always thought this was a strange saying as so much goes on during the winter months. Some plants die down but others are coming up as it’s their season. The animals, insects and birds all still need shelter and food.
Pruning
Many plants actually need their annual prune in the winter when they are dormant like roses, apples and pears and many other deciduous shrubs and trees. Think about piling up the prunings or making a ‘dead hedge’ instead of throwing them out or burning them.
Cutting back perennials
Many perennials have gone over and look dead at this time of the year and it is tempting to cut them all back for tidiness. Think carefully about each plant as the seed heads that look dead to you can look beautiful in the frost and can contain valuable food for birds. The base of perennials can actually be protected in the winter, particular those that are slightly tender like Penstemon and many Salvias. Perennials at the side of ponds are refuge for amphibians. If you really need to cut them back consider leaving piles so creatures can hide there. Many perennials are best left until the sap is rising in the Spring like Fuschias, Hydrangeas and Perovskia.
Tender Perennials
Some plants need winter protection as they don’t tolerate the freezing temperatures of recent years. Hardy Fuschias die back but tender ones will die. Dahlias and Cannas really can be put to bed in the garden by covering with a thick layer of straw mulch topped with compost.
Autumn Leaves
I find the thick acrid smoke of a bonfire particularly upsetting if leaves are the fuel. This is especially tedious when leaf blowers are used. Rake the leaves up into a pile for hedgehogs and other creatures to enjoy. Mulch over the top of them on flower beds as they will eventually rot down. Mow them up on a lawn for exceptional compost. Create a leaf mould pile but do not burn!
Meadows and hardy annuals
A lot of our native wild flowers need to have the seed stratified which means they need the cold winter in order to germinate in the Spring. Consider leaving the seeds in the ground rather than collecting them or re-distribute throughout the garden.
Biennials
Foxgloves, teasels and forget-me-nots need to go through vernalisation which is when the plant is in its first year. It needs the cold to stimulate flowering the following Spring.
Plants are amazing and a little knowledge can transform the way you think about ‘putting your garden to bed for the winter’
CGS Courses Please ask for details as I am now meeting potential students for Spring Courses as well as bespoke workshops and volunteering. I can also come and teach you in your own garden and am happy to chat over a coffee at Ashdene. Consultancy gift vouchers available too. Visit my website or email: [email protected]
Seven new displays as the UK’s original festive lights trail returns to Kew Gardens, November 15th to January 7th
Brand-new installations will showcase Kew Gardens in a whole new light, as the UK’s original festive light trail returns to the world-famous botanic gardens in London this November.
Since the inaugural Christmas at Kew trail in 2013, this unique event has paved the way for festive displays across the country. This year’s trail is a celebration of nature by night, bringing Kew’s incredible natural architecture to life. Visitors can expect the return of seasonal favourites alongside immersive new installations, seven of which are making their UK debut. Not to be missed, Christmas at Kew is enchanting seasonal experience for everyone to enjoy.
New installations for 2023
Bespoke new installations include Lili by TILT, a series of abstract, illuminated flowers that stand at almost three metres tall, towering over visitors. ArtAV return with Trapezoid, one of the longest light tunnels to ever feature at Christmas at Kew, and along Camellia Walk over 400 cascading lights are suspended from the tree canopy, set against an assortment of neon backdrops.
Elsewhere, the Hive – a stunning piece of contemporary artwork at Kew that recreates life inside a beehive – will feature in the trail for the first time. With its 1,000 LED lights aglow and an accompanying musical score, see this unique structure like never before as twilight descends across Kew Gardens.
Creative studio Pitaya return to Kew with Spark Ballet, 24 lanterns filled with subtly sparkling lights that appear to ‘dance’, and candles. This brand-new commission sees one hundred candles suspended in the air, magically appearing to float above visitors’ heads. The flickering flames will illuminate tree-lined passageways to create an enchanting festive atmosphere.
Festive favourites
With many of Kew’s 12,000 trees and other botanical treasures being accentuated along the route, visitors can wander beneath colourful canopies and bushes draped in seasonal sparkle, experiencing nature from a new perspective whilst treasuring the essential role that plants play in all our lives.
Other returning favourites include Kew’s famous Christmas Cathedral, a twinkling tunnel of light inspired by arched church windows, and a newly designed Fire Garden. Over 300 candles will line the path to the Temperate House, the oldest Victorian glasshouse in the world, as flame bulbs create the illusion that this cathedral of glass is glowing from within.
Elsewhere, visitors will be entranced as a series of breath-taking light displays dance across the surface of Kew’s iconic Palm House, and LED lights ‘float’ on the surface of the adjacent lake. This grand finale is set to a memorable playlist of much-loved Christmas classics, guaranteed to stir sentimental memories or provide a soundtrack for new traditions.
To add an extra touch of magic to the Christmas at Kew experience, visitors can book a delicious traditional Christmas dinner at The Botanical Brasserie. Indulge in celeriac and truffle soup, Caramelized shallot, beetroot and mushroom wellington or turkey ballotine stuffed with sausage meat, washed down by a warming glass of mulled wine. Kids favourites can be found at the Family Kitchen & Shop, and tasty treats from a selection of independent street food vendors are available along the route. Treat yourself to loaded hash browns, spiced cider, waffles or hot chocolate.
Sandra Botterell, Director of Marketing and Commercial Enterprise at Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, said: “Christmas at Kew is a magical celebration of Kew’s natural landscape, offering sparkle and festivities during the winter months. With an incredible range of brand-new installations and some returning favourites, this year’s trail is guaranteed to be a seasonal spectacle like no other.”
At Wakehurst, Kew’s wild botanic garden in Sussex, Glow Wild celebrates a milestone 10 years. Bringing festive magic and wonder to the South East with 10 new installations and myriad hand-crafted lanterns, this winter lantern trail is not to be missed.
Tickets for Christmas at Kew and Glow Wild are available to purchase now at: Royal Botanic Gardens
Columnist Robbie James says: ” I have an inability to cry but that doesn’t stop me from feeling sad”
I cannot cry to save my life. Up until a few weeks ago, I hadn’t cried for a good few years. Then one evening after a couple of wines I heard Sunshine on Leith by The Proclaimers (one of the greatest love songs of all time) and I sobbed for the next 20 minutes. I couldn’t believe it. I wasn’t crying for any particular reason, my body just fancied a change, and I’m relieved because I missed the feeling you get after you cry – it’s so cathartic and calming. Almost like it’s a natural thing to do, who knew!?
We love to be sorry for crying don’t we. How often do we hear ‘’I’m so sorry I don’t know why I’m crying at such a silly little thing’’. It actually bothers me that I don’t cry more. Sometimes my family or pals think I don’t care as much as them about things. Of course I do, I absolutely do, I just cannot squeeze tears out of my eyes no matter how many times my beloved Scotland get knocked out of the Rugby World Cup.
I substitute crying for running until I can’t run anymore. If I’m feeling good that day, I’ll listen to music that encourages those feelings. But if I’m feeling a bit sad, I’ll absolutely run to Adele. I go and see a therapist every month regardless of how I’m feeling, but I’m there for the same reason every time I go. To learn about my brain (and by the way, it’s a task we’ll never actually fully complete, that’s important to remember).
It’s great to see so many people advocating looking after our brains on Instagram, and the intention is a good one. But we love to encourage each other to try and feel better instantly. It’s a natural instinct to avoid feeling sad, but to my completely untrained brain it doesn’t feel particularly healthy.
We see people saying ‘’I haven’t been feeling great recently but I’m through it by doing this and that, and if you do these things you will be too. Come on. Do them. Hurry up. Feel better, do it now. SADNESS IS BAD’’. Surely this invasion tactic ultimately teaches us nothing. There will always be periods of sadness or low mood, and if we don’t bother to try and understand them when it’s happening, we’ll be in no better place to cope with it when it comes back around again.
At the same time, when things are going well and we’re feeling good – we never really stop and think – ‘’why is it that things are good? What’s making me feel this way about stuff?’’. If we understand and notice the triggers then maybe that might come in handy one day when we’re feeling awful about everything. To use the classic ‘’treat your mental health like your physical health’’ analogy – most of us hygienic lot don’t only go to the dentist when we’ve lost a molar, we go every six months to check all is ok – if it is, great, at least we’ve checked up.
So in short, let’s embrace every feeling, we don’t have to run away from sadness. If you take time to understand rather than fight your brain, you’ll probably be in a better place in the long run. Oh, and if you cry at anything and everything, keep doing it. I’m jealous.
Our wine columnist Giles Luckett explores the best Chilean charms worth trying…
Hello! I recently hosted a slightly unusual Chilean wine tasting. It wasn’t, as one of my wag friends suggested, unusual as there were no Chilean wines on show, but because the focus was on fine wines. Chile has a long wine-making history – the first vines were planted by Spanish conquistadors in the 16th century – and since its rise to wine prominence in the 1980s, it’s been focused on the production of great value everyday drinking wines.
In doing so, Chile had an advantage over the other re-emerging wine nations, as its industry wasn’t based on the production of fortified wines as was the case in Australia and South Africa, but on table wines. This, coupled with the influence of French settlers in the early 20th century, meant their wines were often produced from popular, noble varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Chardonnay.
For the longest time, Chile seemed content to produce these great everyday wines and leave the fancily priced “icon” labels to the Californians and the Aussies. Recently, however, there’s been a change in attitude. Winery owners have been looking at the abundant gifts mother nature has bestowed, have invested heavily in wineries and winemakers, and have started producing wines that are as fine as anything old-world regions can produce.
What I wanted to discover at this tasting was a) does Chile still deliver the goods at all price levels (spoiler alert: Oh, yes!) and b) how the Chilean superstars match up to the world’s greatest wines. The results were fascinating, and while some of the wines in this article are far from cheap, they still represent great value when set against their peers.
Top Chilean fine wines
I’ll kick things off with wine that combines classical Chilean value, a touch of South American flair, and fine wine unorthodoxy. It’s the Don Aldo Olivier Pedro Ximenez Chardonnay (Laithwaites 11.99). I’ve never seen a Pedro Ximenez wine outside of Spain, and those were mainly sweet sherries. This is fresh as a spring dawn and just as joyful. The zesty, grapefruit and lime nose is followed by a tangy white berry palate, before the creamy Chardonnay comes in, softening things with peaches and apricots and adding a smoky richness. This would be great with turkey. Sorry, too soon….?
Montes is one of the great names of Chilean wine, with the likes of the Montes Alpha and Montes M amongst Chile’s first super-premium wines. We tasted another of their fine wines, the Montes Single Vineyard Chardonnay (£12.99). Hailing from the cool Casablanca Valley, this is a refined incarnation of Chilean Chardonnay with lots of green and red apple fruit, crisp green pear, and melon tones and a twist of lemon on the end. The oak provides a creamy, nutty backdrop but isn’t allowed to dominate. Give this an hour open and try it with roasted poultry, pheasant or partridge.
When you see the name “Rothschild” on a label, you know that quality awaits. The (Lafite) Rothchild side of the family has been involved in Chile for many years and the Los Vascos Sauvignon Blanc (Ocado £15) remains an affordable fine wine classic. The crisp, refreshing nose has plenty of citrus and green pepper tones, but also has hints of flint and cut grass. In the mouth, it’s intense, concentrated and precise, with a lean, fresh profile that reveals grapefruit, lemons, gooseberries and savoury green peppers. This is Chilean Sauvignon in the fine Bordeaux style without the fine Bordeaux price tag.
Chile’s abundance of microclimates means it can give a good home to almost any grape variety and produce something special. Time and again it’s impressed me with its dry Rieslings and the Matetic Corralillo Riesling 2021 (Hic! £14.50) is another gem. Gloriously fragrant with aromas of apple blossom, peach, honey, and Granny Smith apples, the palate was multi-layered, combining white berry and orchard fruits with minerals, apricots and a zesty finish. Dry, with just a hint of richness, this would be sublime with smoked fish or strong cheeses such as gruyere or stilton. Oh, did I mention it’s dry?
I’ll leave the whites on a high. About 700m high, to be exact, with a Chardonnay from the Aconcagua Coast region in central Chile. The Las Pizarras Chardonnay (Berry Bros & Rudd £52.50)is the greatest Chilean Chardonnay I’ve ever tasted and has achieved scores of 97+ from the world’s leading critics. Oh, and from me. Poised and refined, this beautiful wine offers apple and Comice pear fruit in a firm, precise fashion. The oak adds weight and spice to the mix and even more complexity. At £52 it’s not cheap, but if you compare it to its Burgundian peers, it’s an absolute steal. If you’re thinking of trying this, look for the 2019 or older. It takes a couple of years to show its best and so older vintages are well worth seeking out.
And so the reds. Carmenere is Chile’s signature red grape. Shunned in Bordeaux, it’s found an ideal home in Chile and even fine examples remain affordable. Take the Adnams Carmenere (Adnams £8.49). This super-fruity, easy-drinking, plump red is bursting with blueberry and mulberry fruit with an undertow of leaf tea, mint, and prunes. Carmenere remains slightly misunderstood/unfashionable, which means it gives even greater value for money. Try this red meats or tomato-based dishes.
Next up is a “field blend”. No, until a couple of years ago I’d never heard this either. A field blend is a wine that’s been created from two or more varieties that have been planted in the same vineyard. Many of these vineyards, such as those in northern California, are very old and were the product of people planting whatever they could get without paying too much heed to varieties. They can make for really interesting combinations as the La Despensa Field Blend (Corkage £25) shows. This Rhône-style wine is made up of Grenache, Mourvèdre and a splash of Roussanne (a white vine). Mid-red and dominated by red cherries and plums, there’s a lovely lift of alpine strawberry on the mid-palate while the Roussanne adds a curious herby tang to the finish. Try this will slow-cooked lamb.
Cabernet Sauvignon is often referred to as the King of Grapes and with good reason. The most important grape in Bordeaux, it produces noble wines across the globe including eye-wateringly expensive examples such as California’s Screaming Eagle – a snip at £3,000+ a bottle. Affordable fine wines can be found, however, such as the Ventisquero Grey Cabernet Sauvignon (Adams £17.99). Varietal Cabernet can be green and aggressive, but the Grey is plump and gentle. The nose mixes blackcurrants, mint and fresh tobacco, while the silky palate is packed with black and red berries with peripheral flavours of chocolate, cream and sweet spices.
My next choice is a wine that’s helped cement Chile’s reputation as a fine wine nation, Sena (£115 MWH Wine). Sena was created in 1995 by Robert Mondavi (the godfather of Californian wine) and Eduardo Chadwick (Chilean wine legend) with a view to creating a world-beating wine. Since then, Sena has scooped many accolades and ranks amongst the world’s finest wines. Crafted from a blend of Cabernet, Carmenere, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc, it’s a wine that delivers complexity, sumptuous quantities of red and black fruits overlain with smoke, minerals, and a fleshy, meaty tone to the finish. This is a wine I would urge every serious wine lover to try at least once, as it’s an unforgettable experience.
And finally, we have the Vinedo Chadwick (£225 Cru Wine). This is a seriously fine wine and while it has a serious price tag, to my mind it is worth the money. The Vinedo Chadwick is a wine that sets out to be the best of the best, and it’s hard to argue that the wine-making team haven’t achieved this. The 2021 has been given perfect 100-point scores by some of the world’s greatest critics and even at this tender age, it’s hugely impressive. Inky in colour, much swirling and breathing coaxed red berries, earth, smoke and eucalyptus from it. The mouthfeel is glorious. It’s rich, yet poised, the tension between super-ripe blackcurrants, mulberries, blueberries and plums and tangy raspberry acidity is awesome. Impeccably well-structured, the tannins are firm but round and support the impressive length that suggests a very long life ahead.
I hope you’ll try some of these extraordinary Chilean wines – if you’re opening any Sena I’m free to help pour!
Next time out I’ll look at some of the best wines from Spain.
Boo, hiss, you won’t want to miss… It’s time to sprinkle the fairy dust and wave your wand to welcome larger than life characters and slapstick galore – pantos are back!
Our Q&A star this month Lucy Benjamin got into some scrapes during her time in EastEnders and as the Wicked Stepmother in Cinderella at the Yvonne Arnaud Theatre, Guildford, this festive season will no doubt get into some more in the classic rags to riches tale. Radio’s Peter Gordon returns for his 18th year, this time in a hilarious Ugly Stepsister duo alongside Guildford Shakepeare Company co-founder Matt Pinches. It’s also welcome back to CBeebies star James Merry for his third Yvonne Arnaud panto! The godmother of all pantos, full of slapstick and slosh, music and magic runs from December 2nd to January 7th. For tickets visit yvonne-arnaud.co.uk
The story of a young girl’s journey from scullery to ballroom is also being told with tears, laughter, music and fun at Camberley Theatre from December 9th to 31st. This new, magical production of the timeless story of Cinderella will delight the whole family featuring a jukebox of much loved songs, beautiful costumes and a talented cast of actors and dancers. Will Cinderella be able to escape her cruel family for a chance of one night of fun, and maybe find love along the way? Find out more for yourself at camberleytheatre.co.uk
Holly, Santa’s newest elf and Trixie the experienced elf are busy decorating Santa’s workshop in the lead up to Christmas. Holly reveals Lapland’s biggest secret, that once a year Santa sends a magical gift to one person who deserves it the most. Holly writes her Christmas wish on a snowflake and places it on the window ledge, a gust of wind takes it, and in the morning a large golden gift appears in its place. Is it really Santa’s Magical Gift? Find out in this heart-warming festive story with audience participation, comedy routines and a present for every child in the audience from Santa at the Rhoda McGaw Theatre, December 17th to 24th. Book at atgtickets.com
Aladdin may be poor but he has ambitions beyond Widow Twankey’s laundry where he helps his mum and hapless brother Wishee Washee. Enter stage left to boos and hisses, the evil Abanazar tempting Aladdin with untold riches. Add a wish or three of magic in the shape of an enchanted lamp, plus not one but two genies and you have all the ingredients for a traditional panto in this year’s offering from Godalming Theatre Group at Ben Travers Theatre, Charterhouse, Godalming, December 15th to 18th. Tickets from thelittleboxoffice.com
Meet The Society for Christmas Creatures at Farnham Maltings this December. They are the world’s only expert team of festive detectives, and they know a thing or two about Christmas. Armed with a taste for adventure (and a pair of knitting needles), they’ve trekked far and wide searching for Christmas creatures of every shape and size. Now they’re here in Farnham for their toughest mission yet: to find the elusive Christmas Lobster and maybe (just maybe) discover the true meaning of Christmas. Will they find him? Find out from 13th to 24th, exc 19th. Book at farnhammaltings.com
When Christmas is over there’s still time to enjoy a panto with The Quince Players’ who this year are staging Ba-Ba Land, a brand new story about the land of nursery rhymes, a budding romance between Bo Beep and Little Boy Blue and a competition that the Big Bad Wolf is determined to win. Performance dates are January 11th-14th and 18th-20th at Cordes Hall, Sunninghill. Tickets will be available from mid-November at quinceplayers.com
Hampshire
Pumpkin Pantos are back with another spellbinding pantomime and this year it’s one as old as time featuring a cursed prince, an enchanted rose and a magical castle. Can the cold-hearted Beast find true love before it’s too late? Is the beautiful Belle his chance of a happy ever after? Only time will tell in this spectacular production with stunning scenery, lavish costumes, memorable songs and laughs galore. Join Beauty and the Beast at Alton Assembly Rooms, December 9th and 10th and Forest Community Centre, Bordon, the week after on 15th-17th. Tickets at www.pumpkinpantos.co.uk
Dick Whittington, a plucky young man from the country, arrives in London to make his fortune, with his trusty feline sidekick in tow. Little does he know, his journey could fulfil an ancient prophecy and Queen Rat will do everything in her power to stop Dick in his tracks. Come along on a whirlwind journey through the streets of London and across the seas at the Harlington, Fleet from December 9th to 29th. Book here theharlington.co.uk
Cinderella is also looking for her lost shoe at Theatre Royal Winchester in this retelling of the greatest fairytale of them all. With original songs, loads of corny gags, audience participation and some surprising twists to the tale, the whole family is invited to the ball from November 30th to January 1st. Book at theatreroyalwinchester.co.uk
The swashbuckling adventure at The Anvil, Basingstoke this Christmas is The Further Adventures of Peter Pan: The Return of Hook starring Gavin & Stacey’s Melanie Walters as Mrs Darling and Ethyl Mermaid, Channel 5’s Milkshake! presenter David Ribi as Peter Pan, the ever-comical Chris Pizzey (CBBC’s Basil Brush) back by popular demand as Smee, Nickelodeon’s Holly Atterton as Tinker Bell, while Chris Fearn returns as Captain Hook. Check out anvilarts.org.uk for full details.
Santa is determined to deliver the most fantastic Christmas present to Sarah, but he doesn’t get it right straight away! With the help of his cheeky Elf, he finally settles on something ‘perfect’, just in time for Christmas Eve. From the author of the well-loved children’s book Dear Zoo, Rod Campbell, Dear Santa, is an ideal introduction to theatre for those aged two and over. Meet Santa in his grotto after the show at The Haymarket, Basingstoke and receive a free gift. The show runs from December 7th to 10th, book at anvilarts.org.uk
The Phoenix Theatre in Bordon bring three classic tales to life this Christmas. A-Lad-In-Space is their adult’s only pantomime, telling the tale of Aladdin with a 1950s science-fiction feeling; you’ll rekindle your warp drive and be sent into orbit frm December 14th to 16th. For younger ones Oomph Theatre brings Hansel & Gretel on December 18th and 19th, a fabulous feast of festive fun. The Phoenix Players’ Red Riding Hood takes you on a journey through the deep, dark forest to Granny’s house. January fun on 19th, 20th, 25th to 27th. Book tickets for these at phoenixarts.co.uk
Oxfordshire
Get ready for a gigantic panto experience and climb new heights with Jack and the Beanstalk, a fee fi fo fun pantomime for everyone to enjoy at Oxford Playhouse, November 24th to January 7th. Poor Jack can’t seem to help getting into trouble with his mum. Now he’s really landed himself in it by selling the family cow to a stranger for a handful of old beans. But those mysterious beans have started to grow…and grow… and GROW! Full of infectious laughter, brilliant storytelling, singing, dancing, cheering for the goodies and booing for the baddies, an Oxford Playhouse pantomime is fabulous festive fun for everyone aged 5 to 105! Book tickets for this at oxfordplayhouse.com
Oxford’s New Theatre is home to one of the biggest shows in recent years, coming of age musical Everybody’s Talking About Jamie. Sixteen-year-old Jamie doesn’t quite fit in, terrified but determined to be a sensation and with love and support from his mum and friends, Jamie beats prejudice and the bullies to step into the spotlight. A hit in the West End, see it for yourself from December 12th to 30th. Tickets at atgtickets.com
Join The Sinodun Players on an epic journey across the seas in The Adventures of Sinbad at the Corn Exchange Wallingford this January, 12th to 27th. With all the magic and fun of a traditional panto, be enchanted by the sparkling diamond cave, wonder at the magic carpet and the myriad characters that make up this exciting story, oh and there’s a baby elephant too! Intrigued? Full details and booking at cornexchange.org.uk
It’s the panto you’ve ‘bean’ waiting for! Immersion Theatre are thrilled to bring a giant amount of fe-fi-fo-fun to the Kenton Theatre as they present Jack and the Beanstalk, a magical pantomime of epic proportions from December 9th to 31st. Packed with comedy, music and audience participation, this hilarious and action-packed adventure promises to be a joyous and festive experience, oh yes it does! Book at kentontheatre.co.uk
The Henley Children’s Theatre’s annual panto is Beauty and the Beast. It may be a tale as old as time, but there is nothing outdated about this production, and certainly not the cast of enthusiastic youngsters! We meet our book-loving heroine Belle and Prince Perfect who is turned in to a Beast and must find someone to love him all while the clock is ticking! The cast of local children, aged 4-16, will delight with their joie-de-vivre (and questionable French accents) at the Kenton Theatre, January 3rd to 6th. Tickets at kentontheatre.co.uk
Deep in Sherwood Forest, local hero Robin Hood robs from the rich and gives to the poor. Will he rescue Maid Marion from the clutches of the money grabbing Sheriff of Nottingham? Packed with songs, slapstick, the most dangerous archery competition you ever did see and all the fairy-tale magic of traditional pantomime. Enjoy the merriest panto in the land at The Beacon Wantage on December 9th and 10th. For tickets visit beaconwantage.co.uk
Christmas is coming and Sally can’t sleep – it’s far too hot! The weather has gone topsy-turvy. Sally has a dream that changes everything – a mysterious silver spark transforms her bedroom into a glistening, white field where she meets the glowing Heart of Winter. The magical new musical show at Didcot’s Cornerstone (December 18th to 24th) celebrates family, friendship and the good fortune of finding the winter we really need and want…with the festive offering of lots of fluffy snow! Book at cornerstone-arts.org
Abingdon Drama Club are telling the story of Peter Pan, January 11th to 14th and 17th to 20th. Join Peter, Wendy and the lost boys as they do battle with Captain Hook in this comic caper. More details and tickets at abingdon-drama-club.com
Abingdon’s Amey Theatre offers a variety of seasonal shows to entertain, including The Snowman Live with Wantage Band on 3rd December. The concert will centre on a performance of the soundtrack to the 1982 film with a showing of the film itself. On 12th December, you can also join Clara, her Nutcracker doll and the Sugar Plum Fairy in the magical Christmas ballet in the Royal Opera House live performance of The Nutcracker. To browse and book events at the Amey Theatre, visit abingdon.org.uk
Kingston Bagpuize Drama Group present Cinderella, a pantomime by Tom Whalley. Forced to do all the terrible chores at Hardup Hall by her two awful, ugly stepsisters, Cinderella dreams of the day her Prince Charming will take her away to a happily ever after. With a little help from her Fairy Godmother and some magic it might just happen. November 23rd to 25th at Southmoor Village Hall, OX13 5BY. Tickets at tinyurl.com/3rzyccfa
Expect toe tapping songs, lots of audience participation, very corny jokes, comedy and even a bit of Carry On Camping thrown in to Snow White at the Corn Exchange Witney, December 14th to 31st (selected dates). The story has a host of colourful characters including a talking mirror. Join Buttercross Theatre Productions and find out if Snow White manages to outwit her wicked stepmother and bag her handsome prince with the help of her seven new friends. Book at buttercrosstheatreproductions.co.uk
There’s a Latin American twist to a traditional tale at the Theatre Chipping Norton this Christmas, where Cinderella promises to be the perfect panto for Encanto-loving families. Director John Terry calls it “a joyful blast of carnival colour and energy the likes of which neither Cinderella nor Chipping Norton has seen before!” The clock is ticking. Book your tickets now for the panto, November 15th to January 14th, at chippingnortontheatre.com
Berkshire
Reading’s favourite panto star Mr Tumble aka Justin Fletcher is back at The Hexagon for Sleeping Beauty from December 9th to January 7th. The wicked fairy Carabosse’s evil curse causes the princess to prick her finger on a spinning wheel and fall into an enchanted sleep, can anyone rescue her from a magical slumber before it is too late? Sleeping Beauty will have everything you expect from a pantomime at the Hexagon, memorable musical numbers, tons of fun and laughter and a happy ever after! Book at whatsonreading.com
Why see just one pantomime when you can see seven? A madcap ride through the biggest and best pantos is on offer at Reading Rep Theatre courtesy of Potted Panto. All the beloved pantomime characters arrive on stage in this wonderfully absurd festive treat. A dastardly double act dash from rubbing Aladdin’s lamp to roaming the golden streets of Dick Whittington’s London and making sure that Cinderella gets to the ball! This might not be the traditional panto you think you’re looking for, but it’s the panto you need, from November 27th to December 31st. Book your tickets at readingrep.com
Make all of your wishes come true and join Windsor’s favourite threesome on a magical (carpet) ride of adventure and fun! With traditional pantomime comedy capers, dazzling dancers, colourful costumes, and a sprinkling of magic, you won’t want to miss this ‘genie’-ous show! Due to popular demand, this year’s pantomime is being extended for an extra week from November 24th to January 14th – making Aladdin Theatre Royal Windsor’s biggest panto of all time! Tickets at theatreroyalwindsor.co.uk
Magic and mayhem are the order of the day at the Wilde Theatre with a new version of the timeless tale of Sleeping Beauty. A young princess is cursed to die on her birthday by an evil witch. After pricking her finger on a spinning wheel’s spindle, she falls into an eternal sleep from which she can only be awoken by true love’s kiss. Will the Princess find her true love and live happily ever after? Expect laughter, silly songs, colourful characters, slapstick comedy, and dangerous dragons in this panto favourite full of creative sparkle. You’ll be enchanted! November 24th to December 31st. More at southhillpark.org.uk
‘Every time a bell chimes an angel gets it’s wings’ in this adaption of the seasonal classic It’s A Wonderful Life, November 30th to December 30th at Reading Rep Theatre. It’s Christmas Eve in Bedford Falls… Down-on-his-luck banker, George Bailey, feels life has passed him by. So when his guardian angel pays him a visit, George is amazed to discover what life in his beloved town would be like without him in it… Maybe it’d be a little less wonderful after all? Based on the critically acclaimed 1946 Frank Capra movie this reimagining is brought to life by four actors playing all the residents of Bedford Falls. Don’t miss this heart-warming tale; readingrep.com
Experience Aladdin, Jasmine, and Genie on their magical journey to find the lamp and defeat the evil sorcerer in the magical, musical and hilarious adventure for the whole family brought to you by Wokingham Pantomime Group. Book your tickets for The Whitty Theatre, Luckley House School on December 29th and 30th at ticketsource.co.uk
Riverside Players are bringing Old Mother Hubbard, the Lady who Lived in a Shoe to The Memorial Hall, Windsor from December 1st to 3rd and 7th to 9th. The show features all your favourite characters from the hard-working Dame, Mother Hubbard, doing her best for her mischievous orphans Jack and Jill. There’s a classic love story between Little Miss Muffet and Little Boy Blue, Wee Willy Winky has been up all night and needs help staying awake, and the evil Baron is intent on bringing the village of Lower Bottom to its knees. Plenty of other characters show up along the way too. Book at riversideplayers.com or call 07803 705437.
Panto continues into the new year with Twyford Drama putting on Treasure Island, January 12th and 13th. The nautical masterpiece combines a comical riot of piratical hi jinks, flying custard pies, suspenseful chases, ferocious fights and of course…a never-to-be-forgotten hair-raising haunted grotto. Tickets and more info at twyforddrama.co.uk
Buckinghamshire
Strictly Come Dancing glitter-ball winner Joe McFadden will reprise his role of baddie, the arrogant Eugene, alongside Hear’say and musical theatre star Suzanne Shaw as the Enchantress in Wycombe Swan and Imagine Theatre’s all-star Beauty and The Beast from 8th to 31st December. Joe says: “I’m excited to be back at the beautiful Swan after having a brilliant time here earlier in the year with the tour of Agatha Christie’s The Mirror Crack’d.” Suzanne adds: “I couldn’t be more delighted to be in Beauty and the Beast in my home town, I’ve wanted to do panto in Wycombe for 16 years and finally my wish has come true!”
They will star, along with Wycombe favourite Jon Clegg and another vocal local, Britain’s Got Talent Favourite La Voix, who recently appeared in ITV’s Queens For The Night as well as starring in Queen Of The Universe, the international drag-singing competition from RuPaul. Currently touring the UK in her show, The Red Ambition Tour, La Voix is no stranger to pantoland, telling us: “I can’t wait to play Peggy, internationally renowned barmaid of the village tavern! “Now, it sounds like I’ve been round the block a bit but this must be coming up 20 years of panto… And I love it: Christmas and panto!” Book at wycombeswan.co.uk
The Young Theatre at Beaconsfield’s The Curzon Theatre, HP9 1RG, will dazzle you with Cinderella, directed by Emma McGrath, 21st to 24th December, with an original script and loads of great songs and music, as well as some “truly ridiculous” jokes. Book your tickets at youngtheatre.org.uk
At The Elgiva in Chesham, you’re invited to step into a world of enchanted pumpkins, a handsome prince and some very special footwear… The team are preparing the sparkly costumes for a dazzling Cinderella from 2nd to 8th December. Please book your tickets at elgiva.com
Maidenhead pantomime Beauty and the Beast, supported by Marlow FM promises to whisk you away, at the Baylis Theatre in Braywick Leisure Centre, 14th to 24th December; maidenheadpanto.co.uk Aylesbury Waterside Theatre brings you Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs from 1st December to 3rd January. More than 50,000 people watched last year’s production, and sales indicate another record-breaking year in store. BBC3 Counties breakfast show star Andy Collins returns, by popular demand, for a 12th magical year, playing the role of Muddles. “Year on year I feel so lucky getting to do something I love, in a town that I love, and with audiences who are quite simply the best around. Every year I do my thing on stage and see the faces of school children, parents, grandmas and grandads having fun and making memories.” For info & tickets visit atgtickets.com
At Aylesbury’s Norman Bragg Studio, HP20 1UG, there are the festive alternatives of A Christmas Carol, 12th to 17th December, and Santa’s New Sleigh 19th to 24th December; please visit atgtickets.com
Some different festive offerings from Norden Farm… Enjoy an evening of stories, flowers and fragrant festive designs on 16th November with Mig Kimpton In Floral Pantoland! Miki is a magical family show for ages 3+ following a polar bear and penguin, 28th November to 30th December. And The Hundred Watt Club bring you A Burlesque Christmas Special on 15th December. To find out more & book please visit norden.farm
The Lane End Players are an established amateur theatre group whose talented players are polishing up their Pinocchio, featuring the famous puppet brought to life and his subsequent adventures with a circus, mermaids, a whale and lots more! Shows at the hall, HP14 3JE, from 12th to 27 January; visit laneendplayers.com
And inclusive Iver Heath Drama Club will offer six shows of Dick Whittington over two weekends from 20 to 27th January 2024, written by Lee Hall and directed by Lee Hall and Kaia Barton. Tickets at available to book here
Whichever pantos you choose, we hope you enjoy the best of the season. All together now.. he’s behind you!
November is Diwali month so what better time to shine a light on these recipes from Atul Kochhar…? You can also win a takeaway from one of his Bucks restaurants
Diwali is one of India’s most important festivals – a time to celebrate the triumph of light over darkness, knowledge over ignorance, and good over evil.
Mattan (meat) pepper fry
This curry – a common recipe among the Christians of Kerala, where it is most likely made with mutton or goat – has very little gravy.
Ingredients: • 600g boneless lamb rump or neck fillet • 2.5cm piece of fresh ginger • Four garlic cloves • Two onions • Two teaspoons of black peppercorns, to taste • Fresh coriander leaves • 200ml water • Two teaspoons of white wine vinegar • One heaped tablespoon of coconut oil • 5 fresh or dried curry leaves • Two teaspoons of onion paste • ½ teaspoon ground turmeric • Sea salt
Method: 1. Assemble all the ingredients and equipment before you begin. You need a spice grinder or pestle and mortar, a large heavy-based saucepan with a lid, a sieve and a large sauté or frying pan. 2. Cut the lamb into bite-sized pieces, trimming and discarding any fat, then set aside. Peel and finely chop the ginger. Peel and thinly slice the garlic cloves. Peel, halve and thinly slice the onions. Put the peppercorns in a spice grinder, or use a pestle and mortar to finely grind or crush. Rinse and chop enough coriander leaves to make about 1 tablespoon. 3. Put the lamb, water, vinegar, ½ teaspoon of the freshly ground pepper and ½ teaspoon of the salt in the saucepan. Cover the pan and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and leave the meat to simmer a to a slow boil for 8 minutes. Strain the meat, reserving the cooking liquid. 4. Meanwhile, melt the coconut oil over a medium-high heat in the sauté pan. Add onions, curry leaves, ginger, garlic, a pinch of salt, and stir until the onions are lightly coloured. Add the onion paste and turmeric and stir in for 30 seconds. 5. Add the meat and stir in half the reserved cooking liquid, which will be absorbed and evaporate quite quickly. Add the remaining liquid a little at a time, stirring, until it mostly evaporates. With the last addition, the gravy should almost be like a thin paste coating the lamb and the lamb should be tender. 6. Stir in 1 teaspoon of the freshly ground pepper, adjust the seasoning with salt, if necessary, and continue stirring until all the liquid evaporates. Sprinkle with about ½ teaspoon of the ground pepper and the chopped coriander leaves just before serving.
Here’s a variation of the curry house favourite, gobi aloo. This is from the coastal region of Bengal; you might have never have had this classic combo with pickling spices and final finish of fresh ginger.
Ingredients: • 12 well-scrubbed small new potatoes (see Atul’s tip, below) • Two thin short green chillies • Two garlic cloves • Two tablespoons mustard oil • 1¼ teaspoons panch phoron • 2 teaspoons ground coriander • ½ teaspoon red chilli powder, or to taste • ½ teaspoon ground turmeric • 425ml water • ½ head of cauliflower, about 400g • One lemon • 2cm piece of fresh ginger • Fresh coriander leaves • Sea salt
Method: Assemble all the ingredients and equipment. You need a large sauté or frying pan with a lid.
1. Quarter the potatoes lengthways. Remove the stalks from the chillies, if necessary, then halve lengthways. Peel and thinly slice the garlic. 2. Heat the mustard oil over a medium-high heat in the pan. Add the garlic and stir around to flavour, it doesn’t need to colour. Add the chillies and panch phoron. Stir until the seeds crackle. 3. Add the potatoes, coriander, chilli powder and turmeric. Season with salt and stir for 30 seconds to cook the spices so the potatoes get coated. Watch closely so the spices do not burn. 4. Stir in the water and bring to the boil. Lower the heat to medium, cover the pan and leave the potatoes to bubble for 12 minutes, or until they are three-quarters cooked. 5. Meanwhile, cut the cauliflower into bite-sized florets, discarding outer leaves & core. Squeeze one tablespoon lemon juice. Peel and finely chop the ginger. Rinse and chop enough coriander to make about 1½ tablespoons. Set all these aside separately. 6. When the potatoes are almost cooked, stir in cauliflower and cook over a high heat for 6 minutes, stirring occasionally, until both are tender, but the cauliflower is still holding its shape. 7. Stir in the lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of the ginger and 1 tablespoon of the chopped coriander, and add salt, if necessary. Sprinkle with the remaining ginger & coriander just before serving.
Atul’s time-saving tip
I buy well-scrubbed small new potatoes when cooking this dish, so all I have to do is quarter them. If your potatoes are larger, however, cut the potatoes into 1cm dice so they cook quickly.
Hyderabadi Sour Fish Khatti Machhi (Serves four)
This is a very simple recipe, and one of the quickest to cook in the book. I’ve deliberately left the skin on the sea bass fillets. I know a lot of cooks would be tempted to remove the skin, but I enjoy eating fish with the skin, and it saves you time when preparing the ingredients. In Hindi, khatti means ‘sour’, and the sharpness of this recipe comes from the tomatoes and a little lemon juice.
Ingredients: • 4 large sea bass fillets, skin on • 1 lemon • 2 tablespoons Ginger-Garlic Paste • ½ teaspoon red chilli powder, or to taste • 1 teaspoon ground turmeric • vegetable oil • ¼ teaspoon fenugreek seeds • 350ml passata • 10 fresh or dried curry leaves • sea salt • fresh coriander sprigs, to garnish
Method: Assemble all the ingredients and equipment before you begin. You need a non-reactive bowl, a saucepan and a large non-stick sauté or frying pan.
1. Cut the fillets in half, then place them in the bowl. Squeeze in 2 tablespoons of lemon juice and add the ginger-garlic paste, chilli powder and turmeric. Season with salt and use a spoon to gently stir together so all the pieces are well coated with the paste-like marinade. Set aside to marinate while you prepare the gravy. 2. Heat 1 tablespoon of the vegetable oil over a medium-high heat in the saucepan. Add the fenugreek seeds and fry until they become darker in colour. Add the passata and curry leaves. Season with salt, reduce the heat to medium and leave the gravy to simmer while you fry the fish. 3. Heat enough vegetable oil to thinly cover the bottom of the frying pan over a high heat. Add the fillets coated in the marinade, skin side down, and fry for 2 minutes, or until the skin is browned. 4. Turn the fillets over and reduce the heat to medium. Pour the gravy into the pan around the fillets and leave to simmer until the flesh is opaque and cooked through. Take care not to over-cook them. Adjust the seasoning with salt, if necessary. Garnish with coriander sprigs and serve.
Atul’s time-saving tip
If I hadn’t included passata in this recipe, it would have been necessary to blanch, peel and de-seed the tomatoes before puréeing and sieving them. This is a much quicker way to achieve the sour tomato gravy.
Atul’s restaurant & takeaway competitions
Each of Atul Kochhar’s award-winning Bucks restaurants’ styles are reflected through the takeaway options, cooked in the restaurant kitchens to the same exacting standards as the dishes eaten in the restaurant experience in the comfort of their own homes. Takeaways are ordered for online via each website for collection only – but they will also be available via Deliveroo too.
Known for its stunning pan-Indian food, Vaasu’s takeaway collection is available to collect from the restaurant, comprising a selection of highlights from the a la carte menu. Choose from the likes of Kashmiri chicken tikka marinated with fennel and saffron, finished in the clay oven for results impossible to achieve at home; Goan fish or prawn curry; braised lamb Parsi curry with sweet apricots, brown onion and coriander korma; and much more.
A selection of sweet treats are also offered, including crispy apple jalebi scented with cardamom and saffron, Atul’s special cheesy chocolate fondue, chocolate brownie with fresh berry salsa and vanilla cream, gulab jamun and rice pudding crowned with lemon jam and raspberry dust.
A destination Indian restaurant in the picturesque town of Old Amersham, Hawkyns offers sensational cuisine to takeaway, available for collection. Here the takeaway menu comprises a broad selection of highlights plus a concise drinks selection and set menus especially devised by chef Atul Kochhar. Set menu bundles include a meat bundle for two, a veg bundle for two and a vegan bundle for two, all featuring a generous selection of starters, mains, sides, breads and desserts. Expect the likes of butter chicken and railway lamb curry; paneer tikka masala and Bombay aloo; or vegetable jalfrezi and carrot and beans foogath.
Celebrating the culinary history and traditions of India, Riwaz’s takeaway menu is available to collect from the restaurant. The menu features a broad selection of menu highlights, including tandoor-grilled king prawns in Ajwain, chilli, garlic and mustard oil; saag gosht with Welsh slow-cooked lamb; Dum biryani with chicken, vegetables or lamb, and much more. Various set menu bundles are also available, including a meat bundle for two, a veg bundle for two and a vegan bundle for two, all featuring a generous selection of starters, mains, sides, breads and desserts.
We’ve teamed up with Atul’s team to offer five lucky winners a takeaway. NB you must be local to Bucks for collection. Click here to enter
For more info about Atul Kochhar & his award-winning restaurants please visitAtul Kochhar.
