A golden example of dining

Liz Nicholls

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Liz Nicholls reviews the newly opened Ivy Oxford Brasserie.

In these strange, straitened times, luxury feels like it’s in short supply. In fact, “luxury” has become so rare a concept that it feels a retro, almost naughty. Luckily, the energetic team behind The Ivy Oxford Brasserie haven’t received this particular memo.

From the moment we were ushered inside, off the bleak wintry high street into the velvet-coccoon of the cloakroom we were (to quote Beyoncé) living lavish.

The Ivy Oxford Brasserie’s arrival in this often austere city of broken dreams has caused a big fat buzz for good reason. Because we’re all hungry for some luxury, and a place to celebrate rather than commiserate.

As with its celebrity honeypot mother branch in London, and the successful brasserie outposts in Winchester and Marlow, the Ivy brand is all about the best of the best. That’s most thrilling, on first entry, with the service. The staff offer the level of old-fashioned courtesy and enthusiasm that makes you feel like you’re winning at life. I go weak at the knees for a good banquette (especially a curvy orange one) and the effervescent Karim’s recommendation – truffle arancini – were balls of richly flavoured sexy joy; the perfect accompaniment for Magdalen Manhattan.

You can’t visit this Ivy branch without being wowed by its interior. Instagram has helped to gild the Ivy Oxford’s golden age because it really is a maximalist wonderland that feels designed to be snapped. For Pinterest fans like myself, the general vibe could be defined as “1920s Flapper Luxe”, with huge botanical motifs (toucans, butterflies, rainbow trout) and shiny surfaces at every turn. The old bank’s stately dimensions make it the perfect stomping ground for anyone in need of a bit of glam – even strutting up the copper-hued illuminated staircase to the ladies makes you feel special. The toilets themselves (which you might have seen on Insta) are worth special mention: rose quartz sinks, brass taps, gothic-gold floral wallpaper and jewel-hued pouffes… No wonder, then, that the smallest rooms have apparently been papped even more than the chocolate bombe (which comes a close second). And the enamel-ceilinged private hire party room is a golden example of how to create a setting where you can and should celebrate in debauched yet elegant style, a la the Ivy alma mater.

Hype can really detract from a good meal, and I had thought this Ivy outpost might be more style over substance but happily I was proved wrong. Tempura prawns and salt & pepper squid, in their conical silver salver, were crisp and gorgeous dunked in their wasabi and miso dressing and – a greedy choice – the lobster risotto was a divine creation of sweet meaty flesh doused in a seafoamy bisque dressing with a perfect partner of tender samphire.

Another greedy winter choice (and Karim’s recommendation), chicken Milanese was peak pleasure, coated in brioche crumb but kept savoury by a shiny tureen of truffle cream sauce that I kept trying to steal and topped with a rudely perfect fried egg. Then, as if to prove more definitely is more, the blackened cod fillet. This has almost become a cliché dish, which footballers plump for at Nobu and other top-tier celeb haunts, but technically the Ivy version is very hard to fault: pearly succulent fish, baked in a banana leaf beautifully fragrant with sesame and helped to sing with its citrus-pickled fennel (genius) broccoli and yuzu mayonnaise. Top marks too for a sublime sweet potato side and creamed spinach with pine nuts. All of it looked beautiful but tasted even better.

That much-Instagrammed chocolate bombe is also worth its 15 minutes: a grenade of golden flavour whose honeycomb centre oozed out to mingle with the vanilla ice cream once the hot sauce was poured on top to make a big sticky mess.

With all this glitz & glam, you’d expect the Ivy to be expensive but it’s reasonable: a la carte starters hover about the £10 mark, mains around £20 and there’s a three-course set menu for £21 which is stunning value, all things considered.

Hats off to the Ivy team. They’ve managed to live up to the not-inconsiderable hype. From my grandmother – who toasted her 94th birthday here earlier this month – to youngsters in athleisure chinking drinks at the bar, being made to feel like royalty is surely the best measure of success.

See their menu and book here

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King pin

Round & About

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review

Liz Nicholls visits The Kingham Plough near Chipping Norton which has just been named as a Good Food Gastropub award winner

Our corner of the Cotswolds is prized for its heart-stoppingly beautiful views. But all the dishes arriving from the kitchen on a recent wintry evening could give those regal oak-framed landscapes and chocolate box villages a run for their money.

At one point during our meal, I was embarrassed to be caught snapping my starter on my phone, like the tourist I am. Not cool. But then I wanted to record for posterity (above) the prettiest slice of chicken liver parfait in Christendom. Encased in a pale marbled butter and herb jacket, it tasted even more sumptuous than it looked, fit for a queen, in fact. Accompanied by a cute mini brioche, quenelle of shallots which were sweetly pickled on red wine and glistening currants, this dish showed from the off that the team here really really dig their flavour combos.

So mesmerised was I by this that I didn’t get a look-in on my partner’s equally sexy salmon starter. But the mains carried the party on – my flat-iron steak was perfectly charred on the outside and pink within, dunked in perfect Béarnaise with delicious chips – perfect with a rich and fruity Malbec. Its sister dish was a tablet of beautifully cooked pearlescent hake on a bed of kale and tatty under a blanket of creamy sauce. To complete the trio of courses, I was elated with my deconstructed black forest gateau with tonka bean chantilly that tasted heavenly and sinful.

The Kingham Plough achieved stellar fame under chef patron and Great British Menu winner Emily Watkins so its new owners, Matt and Katie Beamish, had a tough act to follow. Luckily, not only is Matt possibly the most charismatic and enthusiastic foodie you might ever meet, but the old inn, which has rooms, is drop-dead gorgeous; a vision of classy muted F&B walls (which I was caught fondling. Again: not cool), vintage finds in cosy fireside nooks and stunning artworks (we had a Dali sketch next to us) which is all for sale.

I’m thrilled that the couple and of course the team, under head chef Jonny Pons, recently scooped a Good Food Gastropub award. Talented Jonny and co are spoilt for choice with local riches such as exceptional cuts from Paddock Farm and cured meat from Chippy’s Salt Pig. Their skill more than does these justice in this, Daylesford country. And, if our meal sounds too meaty for you, the vegetarian options are amazing, too, and check out the Christmas and NYE menu for pure food porn.

More info

Call 01608 658 327 or visit

Website

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Ghost: The Ultimate Tour Named Death

Round & About

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Steve Warner enjoys Ghost’s performance at SSE Arena Wembley on Friday

Live performances can be an amazing experience for any music fan and I can testify that the Swedish band Ghost are one of the best live rock acts around. Last year I saw them at The Royal Albert Hall on A Pale Horse Named Death Tour promoting their album, Prequelle. Ghost don’t just write and play great music, they provide an exhilarating, memorable show.

The Ultimate Tour Named Death arrived at Wembley for a Friday night show and was no exception. Opening with Rats, an instantly modern catchy classic song really set the scene. Amazing sound from the whole band, dazzling lighting across a huge mediaeval church backdrop made this a great gig. I have seen a lot of bands over many years and they stand out as such a tight band with powerful riffs and boundless energy, who effortlessly switch in and out of lighter moments. Having toured across America, Europe and much of the world, their fan base is expanding massively as more and more people become aware of what this band are capable of. I came across Ghost three years ago. The hypnotic and tuneful rock track Cirice was my introduction to this band through a friend I met at school. This sort of thing doesn’t happen very often. Pure magic!

Ghost comprises of melodic, talented, masked musicians, with Tobias Forge as the front man heading the nameless ghouls. Tobias has a unique, listenable voice which draws you in and he creates theatrical drama on stage. Between songs he interjects humorous interaction with the mesmerised audience. An air of mystery surrounds them that only adds to their complexity.

In March 2020 Ghost will celebrate 10 years since they initially posted three songs on MySpace and within two days became noticed by the music industry. Some people refer to Ghost as a Doom Metal band. The brilliant track Mummy Dust does fit that description but I’m not so sure I’d agree with that particular pigeon hole for this band as this might put off some people who I believe will love their music. Ghost is a modern day Blue Oyster Cult bearing a dark undertone in the lyrics of each song with hard rock guitars and drums, which hits the spot exactly how rock music should be written nowadays.

When you start exploring the writing styles of Ghost you come across Absolution, Square Hammer, He Is, From the Pinnacle to the Pit, Ritual, Faith and Year Zero you realise the variety of music this band can create. If any of this is catching your attention look them up on youtube. Their packaging of each of their albums is great too so treat yourself to discover what so many rock fans are talking about. Yes, I have all the CD’s and vinyl, and yes, the limited edition items are a joy to own, as is the merchandise! Did I remember to say I love their work…?

The Ghost world tour continues

Until 19th December

For tickets, merchandise and more please visit www.ghost-official.com/. Also follow @thebandghost for updates and more

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Make no bones about it…

Round & About

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Ella Reeves reviews Lovely Bones at Oxford Playhouse

If there is one play you go to see this year, this is it.

I have just returned from the stage version of Alice Sebold’s 2002 novel The Lovely Bones, adapted by Bryony Lavery and directed by Melli Still.

My mind was blown. I am not one to be reckless with my superlatives, and this was the best play I’ve ever seen. It is the kind of show where you are not thinking about when the interval is coming, because you are completely enthralled by the performance.

The Lovely Bones was one of the few books I found gripping enough to read cover-to-cover as a teenager. The book is set in Pennsylvania, 1973, where the main character, Susie Salmon, dies at the beginning, raped and murdered by a neighbour. The rest of the story follows Susie’s journey in the afterlife, as she watches over her family, while they deal with the aftermath of her death.

When I heard the production was coming to the Oxford Playhouse, I was keen to see it. I was curious as to how a stage production could plausibly portray Susie’s ghostly presence alongside the living world, and how they would deal with the book’s complex and disturbing themes.

How could it be possible to convey that one part of the scene is in the present, then it is in the past, and some characters on stage are in heaven, while some are on earth?

The situation and mood changes were seamless, owing to the actors’ convincing performances, the suspense-building sound design, the lighting, and the innovative scenery. The actors frequently changed roles, which could have been confusing or overdone, but they subtly conveyed the changes, so it felt as if as if you were in the characters’ heads.

It was clear that the other audience members were as captivated as I was. Through the contrast of lightness and laughter with darkness and gruesomeness, a full range of emotions were teased out in each scene. We gasped, we giggled, and we had tears in our eyes.

The stage play was beautifully choreographed, and there were parts where I was mesmerised by how the motion of each actor slowed and sped up, in sync with one another. I wondered how many times they must have rehearsed to perform it so perfectly. The live band, which transported the audience to the place and era of the story’s setting, was worth seeing in itself.

The scenery was inspired. The backdrop was an angled screen, which, dependent on lighting, acted as a mirror of the main act, or an illusion between the dimensions. When the actor playing Susie (Charlotte Beaumont) talks to the audience and “breaks the fourth wall”, you could imagine that the scenery creates a fifth wall.

There was no weak link to be found in the play, certainly not among the actors. Holiday, the dog, was played by actor Samuel Gosrani, and was clearly recognisable while playing a dog, while also credibly playing Ray, Susie’s love interest. It is notable that Susie never leaves the stage, and despite her screams to her parents, siblings, and friends, she is in a different dimension, so they never bat an eyelid.

Oxfordians are fortunate to have the Oxford Playhouse, an attraction of such excellent productions. I went to see the captioned show on a Wednesday, which enables people with hearing loss to enjoy live performances. The casting team of this production should also be commended for their inclusive approach: the actors were selected for their role based on their acting ability and suitability to the character, no matter their race or gender.

Tickets are still available

For the Thursday evening, Friday evening, and Saturday matinee and evening.

You will not regret it!

Click here

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A radical festival

Round & About

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Despite severe weather warnings, early August saw 66,000 revellers descend upon the stunning South Downs National Park and throw themselves into the wild, magnificent and often ridiculous five-day adventure that is the mammoth Boomtown festival.

As predicted, on Friday gale force wind and heavy rainstorms threaten to dampen everyone’s spirits as tents are flattened across campsites and one of the main stages is shut down. However, the “show must go on!” Campers pull together to help their neighbours and the organisers reschedule all the acts from the closed stage.

One of the UK’s largest, independent music and theatrical festivals, Boomtown resembles something from the script of Michael Crichton’s Westworld (complete with its own Artificial Intelligence storyline). It is a theme park for adults that pulsates with stupendous sights and sounds blasting your senses all weekend. With so much on offer, here are just five reasons why Boomtown towers above the rest:

Green mission

Boomtown’s ongoing priority is to protect the environment from the impact of such a large event. One of the key messages is “Leave No Trace”. Green initiatives include no single-use plastic on sale; 100% compostable serveware; WaterAid refill stations and hundreds of recycling bins; reduced carbon emissions from travel and powering the festival; portable pouches for cigarette butts; an Eco Bond scheme to exchange bags of recycling for cash; and encouraging everyone to take everything home with them – 22,000 tents were left at Boomtown last year – a third of the festival’s capacity.

Boomtown storyline

Since the festival’s conception in 2009, the immersive element has always been entrenched in its ever-evolving storyline. The narrative this year, Chapter 11: A Radical City, has a firm focus on the environment, sustainability and activism. The story is 100% interactive and the public are invited to engage with it. There is an Immersive Maze for true gamers allowing players to go on a quest that unlocks secret areas and plot twists taking a journey deep down the rabbit hole. One person I chatted to even has business cards printed for his Boomtown persona, Xander Hawkmaul.

Theatrics and stage design

Boomtown’s fictitious city consists of 12 unique, themed districts that house thousands of actors in full costume who will engage with you and bring the city streets to life whether it’s an interrogation from the Boomtown Bobbies or a Wild West gunfight. In exchange for a toilet roll, we took a spin on the ‘Wheel of Misfortune’ and were drawn into ‘The Sweatbox’ which was the smallest rave I’ve ever experienced, contained in a vehicle that resembles a horse box.

There are 25 main stages and more than 80 street venues to explore at Boomtown. Immense structures dominate the skyline and act as creative showpieces that soar above the cavorting crowds below. Epic towers glow and shimmer with an abundance of multi-coloured lasers, gigantic screens projecting futuristic imagery and florescent acrobatic shows.

A raucous punk-inspired ex-military hanger promises shrieking guitars and trashing drums. Discarded cars piled high form a gritty, dystopian scrapyard. Flames erupt from front of stage almost as if a dragon was lashing out, spewing fire at the audience. An impressive, temple-like set has huge waterfalls flowing down each side – Mike Skinner couldn’t resist climbing up it and cooling off in the cascade mid-way through The Streets show.

Scattered throughout the woodland are forest parties adorned with a cornucopia of colourful, psychedelic decorations; multi-layered treetop walkways; hidey holes to crawl into and a beach-style retreat.

Plenty of smaller venues line the streets from pop-up nightclubs and discos to a plush ballroom, lavish hotel and casino, though to Mr Whomp’s ice cream van, the Inconvenience Store and the much-loved Office Christmas Party at the Job Centre. Sunday’s Carnival Parade is a must-see spectacle that is awash with dazzling costumes and fantastic props.

And, if all this stimulation gets too much, you can escape to the hills and relax at the spa or witness the sunset from the top of Whistlers Green looking down on all the action.

Music

Unlike other music festivals, Boomtown doesn’t rely on big name headliners to pull in the masses, however it can still compete with the “big boys” boasting household names such as Ms Lauryn Hill, The Streets, Groove Armada, Salt ‘N’ Pepa, UB40 and Chase & Status. With over 1,000 artists performing across 80 genres, the music range is diverse to say the least.

There is heavy bass booming out of every nook and cranny covering almost every electro genre imaginable, so for dance music enthusiasts it’s a dream. There are also many other musical delights waiting over every hill from punk rock and metal to reggae and ska, hip-hop and disco to folk and jazz. Boomtown champions underground subcultures so it’s easy to unearth something that you haven’t heard before.

Highlights for me come from raving in the Hidden Woods at the Calypso-inspired Soca vs Jungle Soundclash where DJs and MCs duel for audience votes; an outstanding set from techno heavyweight Carl Cox; and Beans On Toast whose folk song Magic about the birth of his daughter brings a tear to my eye – it’s Sunday by then and I must be tired and emotional.

A final push on Sunday night ends with Prophets of Rage who show they are seasoned pros by working the crowd with mosh-inducing hits from Rage Against the Machine and old school Cypress Hill and Public Enemy hip-hop tracks. Tom Morrello’s guitar skills, as always, blow me away!

The people

As you can imagine the mix of people who attend Boomtown is as diverse as the music on offer, but it works. From bucket-hat wearing Drum ‘n’ Bass kids, through cyber punks and metallers to hippies, geeks and old timers, everyone is there to have fun and party hard! You will see mad and marvellous costumes, sequins and glitter galore and the utterly bizarre.

There is a real sense of community and comradery that exudes from the festival and its inhabitants which makes it very easy to form new bonds (if only a friend for the night). Boomtown is certainly a place to leave your hang-ups at home and join in with the crazy. My only complaint is that my now 40-year-old body and mind take a whole lot longer to recover!

Read more about Boomtown

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Solent Hotel & Spa

Liz Nicholls

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review

Solent Hotel & Spa in Fareham, Hampshire, has the perfect spa break and dining packages to help you hit the “reset” button and offers a great base to explore the south coast

Do you believe in fairytales? My daughter is always asking me this – it’s her current obsession. For me, sleep is the miraculous saviour and life-restorer, better than any charming prince.

So I know something magical has occurred when I wake up in my serene bedroom having missed breakfast (this never happens – I‘m as greedy as I am frazzled) unsure how I’ll leave the comfiest bed I’ve ever had the joy of lying on…

Rewind to the previous afternoon, I’d arrived tightly wound, even for me. After the usual juggling act, I was in the nick of time for my taster treatment in the calming sanctuary of the spa, adjoining the wooden-beamed hotel. Winner of a World Luxury Spa Award last year, the team are expert in treatments devised by the gorgeous Bordeaux-born skincare brand Caudalie which combines science with the ancient secrets of wine (yes, wine). I felt instantly calmer when I met Imogen who then proceeded to take me to a different level by delivering a Des Vignes back massage. I can never usually get the pressure I crave to ease my knotty shoulders, but this treatment seemed to knead away my tension, leaving me feeling light as air in body and soul.

As much as I love Oxford, it’s landlocked and nothing appeals to my soul as much as a seaside break. The hotel and spa feel like a breath of fresh air, decked out in calming azure tones. After enjoying the steam room and sauna, alongside the pool, I was delighted to find my haven for the evening was more of a welcoming luxury penthouse than a room, with double of everything (even two tellies!), a beautifully stocked fridge and a welcome gift of local fudge and chocolates.

Nothing appeals more on the coast – especially after an indulgent afternoon – than fresh seafood and the restaurant does not disappoint on this score. The AA rosette-winning Terrace is cosy and chic and we went up to the chef’s table to admire the fish on offer – you can have this cooked to order or go a la carte if you’d rather leave the decision-making in the capable hands of the chefs. Unable to choose just two, my friend and I loved our trio of dishes, including king prawn linguine and sumptuous scallops on a samphire bed. The cocktail and pudding menu also make this the perfect destination for any special event.

Solent Hotel & Spa (PO15 7AJ) is the perfect base from which to explore the Isle of Wight and other Hampshire delights. If you too want to feel like a princess, check out the great deals such as the Escape Spa break which offers amazing value.

this treatment seemed to knead away my tension

To find out more and to book your visit, go to Solent Hotel

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