Are the darker nights getting you down? Denise Barkley swaps Oxfordshire for Woolacombe to review a break at The Watersmeet Hotel
Half-term and it’s not just the kids who need some time off! Why not make the most of it with a cheeky break beside the sea?
There’s nothing more invigorating than the crash of waves, salt spray in the air and the cry of seagulls – and a perfect spot to indulge in all that is the dazzling Watersmeet Hotel in North Devon.
Named as luxury hotel group Conde Nast Johansen’s Best Waterside Hotel in the UK and Ireland 2024, this is a fabulous hostelry that’s getting everything right at it’s superlative clifftop location just outside surfers’ paradise Woolacombe.
This wildly romantic spot enjoys an inimitable vista of the wild Atlantic crashing on to the rocks of beautiful Combesgate Beach below. The hotel even has its own private steps down to it. When the tide ebbs, it’s body-boarding and rock-pooling central – I remember coming here with my kids many moons ago and it’s just as magical as it was then.
We revisited this summer, hoping for sunshine but figuring that if the weather wasn’t brilliant we could just sit and watch the majesty of the waves, sip a cocktail and put the world to rights. Well, the weather was true-to-form dull, but at least the rain held off and we had a fantastic couple of days cosseted within this delightfully traditional hotel and out in the open air walking the cliffs, getting blown away on the beaches and visiting nearby Ilfracombe where Damien Hirst’s vast statue of pregnant Verity dominating the harbour really is a showstopper – whether you love it or hate it!
In keeping with its dreamy location, Watersmeet is setting the bar high with its slick but warm-hearted hospitality. The 28 individually decorated bedrooms and suites exude contemporary seaside chic, backed up by a two-AA rosette restaurant, galleried terrace for al fresco dining and drinks, indoor and outdoor pools.
We couldn’t fault our ultra-comfortable deluxe sea-view room with its super-comfy beds. At one point, the skies cleared and we could see the island of Lundy on the horizon. It’s a bird-life haven and a popular visitor destination with boat trips from the harbours at Ilfracombe and Bideford.
“At one point, the skies cleared and we could see the island of Lundy on the horizon”
If you’re an ardent foodie, then Watersmeet is for you. Head chef John Cairns is doing great things and my breakfast Eggs Benedict is probably the best I’ve ever had! Dining revolves around the elegant lounges, superb terrace and, the piece de resistance, the gorgeous Rocks restaurant where the wrap-round picture windows ensure you enjoy those sea views from dawn til spectacular sunset.
From the lunchtime fresh crab sandwiches on arrival to the gourmet delights of dinner, the Watersmeet is a foodie gem. And there’s no teeny-weeny portions here – my asparagus with crispy hen’s egg starter followed by an entire sole drenched in brown shrimp butter were entirely divine. Another Watersmeet tradition is afternoon tea. It’s just a question of pacing yourself! And they do a cooked ‘high tea’ until 5pm for smaller children.
Come rain or shine, Watersmeet Hotel offers hospitality in the best tradition. It’s a comfortable base for enjoying all the delights of this scenic region. If you and the kids are feeling energetic then there’s surfing, kayaking, coasteering, horse-riding and gold – there’s two world-class links courses close by at Saunton and Westward Ho.
Non-sea-view rooms from £190 per night, sea-view from £270, suites/balconies from £330. There are some late availability offers next week. Visit Watersmeet Hotel: Edwardian Style & Luxury on Devon’s Scenic Coastline call 01271 870333, email [email protected]
