Adam Smith’s Peppered Venison dish recipe

Liz Nicholls

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Wiltshire

Adam Smith, executive chef at Coworth Park in Ascot, shares his recipe for a seasonal game salad

This is a great dish showcasing some of my favourite autumnal ingredients. It’s simple to prepare in advance and although relatively light eating it’s also warm and comforting with the rich sticky figs and beautifully spiced vension.

Peppered venison salad, serves six

Ingredients

• 1kg venison loin
• 1tbsp black peppercorns
• 2tbsp pink peppercorns
• 1 star anise
• 1tbsp juniper berries
• 6 fresh figs
• 250g roast pecan nuts
• Selection of bitter leafs (red and white chicory, radicchio, frisse, Castro Franco)
• 120ml walnut oil
• 100ml rape seed oil
• 2 tbsp Dijon mustard
• 100ml cabernet Savion vinegar
• 200ml red wine
• 200ml ruby port
• 200g soft brown sugar
• 50g fresh ginger
• 2 star anise
• 6 cardamom pods
• 2 cloves
• 6 juniper berries

Peppered venison loin

• 1kg venison loin
• 1tbsp black peppercorns
• 2 tbsp pink peppercorns
• 1 star anise
• 1tbsp juniper berries
• 1tbsp Dijon mustard

Method

1. Roast all the spices in a dry pan, then into a pestle and mortar and crush them to a coarse powder
2. Season the venison loin with salt and sear in a hot pan, remove from the pan brush all over with the Dijon mustard and roll into the crushed spices
3. Cook in the oven at 180C until a core temperature of 48C is achieved
4. Remove from the oven and allow to rest at room temperature

Dressing

• 120ml walnut oil
• 100ml rape seed oil
• 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
• 100ml cabernet Savion vinegar

1. Whisk the Dijon mustard and the vinegar together in a round bottomed bowl
2. Combine the two oils and slowly add to the bowl ensuring to continually whisk to emulsify the dressing
3. Season with salt and pepper to taste

Port roast figs

• 6 fresh figs
• 200ml red wine
• 200ml ruby port
• 200g soft brown sugar
• 50g fresh ginger
• 2 star anise
• 6 cardamom pods
• 2 cloves
• 6 juniper berries

Method

1. Thickly slice the ginger and crack the cardamom pods and place into a pan with the cloves, star anise, soft brown sugar, red wine and port
2. Bring to the boil and reduce to a syrup
3. Pass through a fine sieve
4. Score the figs and drizzle in the syrup
5. Place into an oven at 180C and cook for around 4-5min
6. The timing will differ depending on the ripeness of your figs, you want the soft and sticky but still able to hold their shape

To serve

• Pick down and wash all of the bitter leaves in ice cold water, if you have a salad spinner, spin then dry
• Place the washed salad with ½ of the pecan nuts into a large salad bowl and dress generously with your walnut oil dressing
• Arrange these into your serving bowl
• Slice your peppered venison about 5mm thick then place on the top with the roast glazed figs
• Add the other ½ of the pecan nuts on top and add a little extra dressing if desired

Visit Coworth Park – 5-Star Luxury Hotel

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Full of beans

Karen Neville

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Wiltshire

Remember when the only choice for a coffee was white or black? Times have changed and ordering a coffee is now akin to reciting War and Peace. However you like your caffeine shot (or not) support National Coffee Week this month

Cappuccino, latte, flat, white, Americano, affogato – however you like yours, as a nation, we in Britain drink around a whopping 95 million cups of coffee a day!

So, the only way to mark National Coffee Week, October 16th to 22nd, is by raising a cup in whichever style you prefer. The week is the biggest celebration of coffee, raising funds for Project Waterfall which brings clean drinking water to coffee growing communities.

Since 2011, the UK Coffee Week community has raised more than £800,00 for Project Waterfall, reaching over 45,000 people with clean drinking water, sanitation and education.

Funds raised during the 2023 campaign will support Project Waterfall’s latest project in the Berbere district of Ethiopia. The country is considered the biological and cultural home of coffee but 82% of households in the Berbere area use water from unprotected sources.

Working in partnership with the local government as well as WaterAid, Project Waterfall will build a solar powered multi-village gravity-flow water system, that will provide water to 40,000 people. The new infrastructure will be climate resistant and accessible to everyone in the area.

How can you get involved and do your bit to help? Hospitality businesses of all shapes and sizes fundraise by donating from every cup or bag of coffee sold, or by running events and competitions.

Whether you serve, sell, sip or roast the much-loved bean – which is actually a fruit – you can take part in UK Coffee Week and support coffee-growing communities. Among the vendors locally taking part are Fieldhouse Coffee, Rose Brae, Woodlands, Windlesham and COLCO Coffee, Unit 3, Manor Farm, Common Road, Eton Wick, Windsor. Explore their selection of hand roasted coffee from around the world including Colombian Speciality Coffee, Single Origin Coffees and Premium House Blends. A percentage of their coffee proceeds goes to support great causes, why not grab a bag today?

Also participating is Art Cafe, Bonn Square, Oxford where, as the name suggests you can appreciate some work from local artists as you enjoy your cuppa.

There are more coffee shops than you can shake a bean at so why not try one of these which serve up a little something extra?

In picturesque Ripley, you’ll find Nest Home & Café, part café, part home / gift shop with a reputation for excellent service, world-class coffee and eclectic shopping. All food and drink is served in recyclable trays, cutting down on waste too. You’re also welcome to take along your own favourite cup or mug and enjoy a discount on your coffee.

Here’s a coffee shop with a difference, the Terrace Lounge Coffee Shop at Harry Edwards Healing Sanctuary in Shere boasts stunning views over the Surrey Hills. Recently opened, could there be a better way to enjoy some ‘me time’ in stunning surroundings and while you’re there why not combine it with some healing?

Described as a ‘curious coffee shop and gift shop’, Hemingways in Haslemere has found a special place in the hearts of locals with its ‘marvellous mix of old and new, classy and comfortable, lively and relaxing with a wonderfully eclectic decor and range of gifts and homeware that combine to make a special and favourite place for all those who visit’. It is also heavily involved in the community, supporting many local charities and organisations.

Cappuccino with a cavapoo? No problem at Cantine in Fleet. The dog-friendly café offers a warm welcome to our furry friends as well as their owners with a delicious range of sweet treats and a recently launched full English breakfast to tuck into too. Take your pooch along and they can tuck – or lick – into dog ice cream and the popular Puppicino treat too. There’s local art on the walls and regular quiz nights too to test your little grey cells.

Never has the saying from little acorns been more apt for Acorns Coffee Roastery which operates from The Shed in Bordon. From the early days as a mobile coffee shop in a converted horsebox, the team and passion for coffee grew with the addition of Head Roaster Matt whose knowledge means you can now enjoy Acorns small batch roasted coffee anywhere in the country.

At Coffee Under Pressure, the two baristi who created it believe that great coffee is an affordable luxury, but also an everyday need which is why, when visiting the shop in St Mary’s Butts, Reading you will find passionate and knowledgeable baristi with attention to detail and persistence for the best brew every time. Chat to them about how to explore new flavours and brewing methods and ask every detail you wish to know about their coffees or teas.

All things gluten-free are celebrated at YayLo in Cross Street, in Reading town centre. You may recognise the only gluten-free coffee shop in town, it was previously the award-winning Nibsy’s. Now under a new name and new ownership, it is proud to be gluten-free and serving up ‘awesome-licious gluten-free’ pastries, donoughts and cakes alongside its equally delicious coffee.

Robyn’s Nest at Moss End Cafe, Warfield, isn’t just offering great tasting coffee and cakes, during the pandemic they provided cake boxes for the NHS and keyworkers and now offers business networking events as well as a play area so you can enjoy your coffee – while it’s hot – while your little ones play.

The Collective in Church Road, Caversham, is a speciality coffee shop, licensed cafe, lifestyle store and grocer with community at its core. It has won awards for bringing together a love of incredible coffee, great quality food, design and living well into one destination.

If it’s all about the coffee for you Spoon in Duke Street, Henley, proudly serves Extract Coffee. Ethically sourced, kind to farmers and utterly delicious. Often dubbed ‘the best coffee in Henley’, they sell pre-ground Original Espresso in-store so you can take Extract’s heavenly blend home with you to sip at your leisure.

The Pantry in Thatcham has its own specially blended coffee from their partner coffee supplier Kingdom Coffee. The Pantry Blend is a full bodied, smooth coffee with a creamy mouth feel and notes of berry fruits, chocolate and molasses. Sounds delicious and each and every cup is expertly crafted for you by the trained staff making it stand out in so many ways.

A former Wesleyan chapel is the location for Community Hub cafe at City Arts.The barista coffee machine and home made cakes sit alongside the current art exhibition. Cakes are baked by local bakers and can be enjoyed with great barista coffee and a selection of high quality teas. Browse and buy the unique cards on sale from local artists too.

Elaine’s in The Courtyard, Hungerford and Hughendon Yard, Marlborough believe everyone should be able to eat out knowing they are able to choose food that is right for them and is delicious and nutritious, no matter what diet they are committed to. Alongside wholesome fare, you can enjoy your coffee in a relaxed and welcoming setting.

The award-winning Hampstead Norreys Community Shop is a true gem on a mission to serve its community in every way. Stocking essential and speciality groceries, it champions sustainable and locally made products not least in its cafe where you’ll feast on delicious home-made food, barista coffee and other beverages.

If it’s location you’re after while you sip on your coffee, then head to The Tea Shop by the canal at Newbury, this can be found in a unique grade II listed building on the Kennet and Avon waterway.

Coffee for a cause is the idea dreamed up by James at Coffi Lab opposite the Town Hall in Marlborough. The venture combines his love of Labradors, creating a coffee brand and making a difference. The cafes, of which there are eight, are not a dog café as such, but open venues; a focal point of leafy neighbourhoods where family and friends come together without having to leave their canine companions at home. As it says on the website, Coffi Lab is ‘driven by a desire to do good’ and to that end they have so far raised in excess of £60,000 for Guide Dogs for the Blind.

Cappuccino with a cavapoo? The Dog’s Spot in Abingdon is a unique place for dogs and their owners. A place to meet, socialise, enjoy good coffee and cakes, in a relaxed dog-centred space with its own doggy menu. In the shop they offer a range of high-quality food, treats and accessories, as well as being home to grooming spa.

Oxford’s Grand Cafe can stake a unique claim to fame – it is housed in the spot where the very first coffee shop in England was founded in 1650. According to a number of sources, including Samuel Pepys, an entrepreneur named Jacob established the first English coffee house in High Street almost 400 years ago. There’s a challenger for this accolade with Queen’s Lane Coffee House, established in 1654, saying it is ‘the longest established coffee house in Europe’. The difference? Queen’s Lane has always been a coffee shop whereas the Grand Cafe has actually been a variety of businesses over the years. Both have great historical value and serve an exceptional cup of coffee and more!

Society Café is an independent speciality coffee shop in the heart of Oxford city centre. Their focus is on making great coffee sourced directly from the best coffee producing farms in the world and roasted by the best roasters in the world. Try a cup and see.

Location, location, location – one of the best is surely that occupied by The Waterfront Cafe at Benson. Relax with your brew on the vast decking as you watch the boats gliding up and down the river. The perfect spot to watch the world go by. The decking and covered outside areas are also dog friendly.

Head to the Vale and Download Museum in Wantage for coffee and a little history or for some rustic charm how about Cogges Kitchen in the old milking parlour at Cogges Manor Farm in Witney. Tuck in to tasty cake with a good cup of locally roasted coffee.

And if you like your coffee among plants then head to Root One Garden Centre in Brightwell-cum-Sotwell where you can enjoy some delicious sweet treats too.

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Garden Invaders

Round & About

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Wiltshire

There are many plants that can inadvertently take over our gardens, particularly weeds, but there are some beautiful plants on sale that you can wonder why you ever planted. These are my own experiences and everyone will have a different gripe, says R&A gardener Cathie Welch

Houttuynia cordata ‘Chamaeleon’ (pictured)

A beautiful plant often sold for ponds and waterside planting now rampaging in my edible border. It is edible but not very nice. It spreads underground by rhizomes and pops up everywhere gathering momentum after its winter sleep.

Bamboo

This is where it is essential to do your homework. There are bamboos and there are bamboos. Avoid at all costs the running away ones that can colonise gardens and invade those of your neighbours as well as lift up paths, destroy foundations and puncture pond liners. I tend to choose Phylostachys aurea and nigra which are clump forming with beautiful stems but they are quite high maintenance needing to be thinned and trimmed constantly. Occasionally an unwanted shoot pops up but it is important to cut it off. You are in charge of your plants and not vice versa.

Helianthus

Helianthus is the Genus which includes the annual sunflower. There are several perennial varieties that spread indefinitely if you don’t keep them in check. They also spread by underground tubers and as anyone who has grown Jerusalem artichokes on their allotment will know.

Sorbaria

This is a very pretty fern-like spreading shrub colonising the whole of Thursley common and the surrounding gardens. It is readily on sale in garden centres but never plant it in your garden unless you have the room.

Anemone japonica

I mentioned these in my last article and have battled with them in many a small garden. There are tall invasive varieties but also delightful cultivars like ‘Frilly Knickers’ which I can’t grow at all. They need a regular cull so just choose carefully.

Others

There are many other invasive garden plants like Hypericum calycinum which spreads like mad but is great for banks as is Vinca major or periwinkle. There are many Buddleias and Ivies that do not seed and are not invasive. All plants have their right place. Choose your plants and their location carefully and do a little research on your soil type as one person’s thug plant may not even thrive in your garden.

CGS Courses

Please ask for details as I am now meeting potential students for Spring Courses as well as bespoke workshops and volunteering. I can also come and teach you in your own garden and am happy to chat over a coffee at Ashdene.

Consultancy gift vouchers available too.

Website Cathie’s Gardening School: Surrey’s Garden School

Email [email protected]

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Eight great Rioja wines to enjoy

Round & About

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Wiltshire

Discover a different style of Rioja wine. Round & About’s wine columnist Giles Luckett recommends 8 Riojas that offer a new perspective on this classic region…

I was sharing a bottle of Rioja with a friend of mine a few days ago, and he asked, ‘Don’t you ever get tired of Rioja?’ I made to reply, ‘Oh no, I love Chilean wines’ (a sommelier once asked him which Rioja he’d like, and he said ‘A Chilean one’), but he gave me pause for thought. I do drink a lot of Rioja, and I never get tired of it. Why? Because there’s an amazing diversity of styles and flavours on offer. You could drink nothing but Rioja for a week and twice on Sundays without repeating the experience.

So, for all you Rioja wine lovers – Chilean and the more commonly seen Spanish ones, sorry, Ed! – here are eight expressions of this majestic wine that I would urge you to try.

I’ve mentioned my love of white Rioja before. Once something best avoided, it’s now one of the best value white wines you can find, with the top wines – Contino Blanco (Noble Grape £23.99) or Viña Tondonia Blanco Reserva (£115 Berry Bros & Rudd) – fit to rank with the world’s finest whites.

My current favourite is the Muga Blanco (Majestic £12.99). This is a modern-style white Rioja in that it’s fermented in steel and then sees only three months of oak ageing. The result is a fresh, tangy wine that offers barrel loads of peach, spiced pears, grape and grapefruit flavours with just a hint of cream.

Rioja isn’t famous for its sparkling wines, which is a shame as some of the best Spanish sparkling wines I’ve ever had have been from here. Take the Azabache Brut Metodo Tradicional Rioja, Fincas de Azabache (Corks £22.95). There are only 8,500 bottles of this beauty made each year, and it’s a once-tried, never-forgotten experience. Produced from white Tempranillo (who knew? I didn’t) in the traditional method, this is a wine that combines vibrancy with complexity. The nose is fruit-driven, with all manner of yellow berries jostling for your attention, while in the mouth, citrus mingles with yeast against a backdrop of baked apples. This is a great aperitif or works equally well with smoked fish.

Rosé Rioja, or rosado to give its proper title, is almost always great fun but rarely serious. A big exception to this rule is the Alegra de Beronia (Majestic £11.99). It’s worth buying just for the bottle, which is just as elegant and refined as the wine inside. Blushing amber pink, this Garnache-Tempranillo blend offers a rose and cheery nose, while the soft, generous palate combines strawberries and red cherries with notes of peach and nectarine. Gentle as a summer breeze, try this on its own or with fresh seafood or lightly cured pork.

Rioja is big on value for money, and if you’re looking for a lighter style with more personality than the Groucho Club on a Saturday night, look to the Cune Ciranza (Sainsbury’s £10). I was introduced to this when I was at Harrods’ wine department, and it blew my young palate away. More years than I care (or can) remember, it’s still a firm favourite. Mid-red, it’s bouquet is of crushed black and red berries with a hint of vanilla and smoke. Fruity and forward on the palate, it has all the classic Rioja elements of berry fruits, spices, orange zest, and cream but is presented in an easy-going, rounded, gentle style.

Another wine that shows Rioja’s eminent affordability is the Wine Society’s Rioja (£8.50). This is a very traditional style of Rioja, with plenty of spicy American oak, plenty or extraction, and a goodly quantity of stewed black fruits, given a lift by highlights of Seville oranges and cranberries. Smooth as silk and rich as Bezos, this is another great wine to keep to hand, and at £8.50, it’s worth joining the Society to get it.

Up to now, the wines I’ve recommended have been produced from classic blends, such as Tempranillo and Garnacha or Viura and Malvasia. My next recommendation is both a varietal, made from a single-grape type, and made from one of the less well-known Rioja varieties. It’s the Beronia Graciano (Vinissimus £20). I warn you now, this is not for the faint of heart; this is a Rioja for those looking for power and intensity. Red black, the nose is a dark, brooding affair with stewed black fruits, earthy spices and woodsmoke. The palate is weighty, concentrated, and broad. Prunes, blackberries, herbs, boysenberries, vanilla, charcoal, and a lift of lavender make for a fascinating mouthful. This is a wine that’s capable of long ageing but is sensational now with roasted meats, strong hard cheeses, and pâté.

My next wine is a Riojan legend, the Imperial Reserva 2018 (Waitrose £26.99). Imperial is a wine that blends tradition with modernity and offers one of the great Rioja wine experiences. A blend of Tempranillo, Graciano and Mazuelo, aged in a combination of American and French oak, freshness and depth combine here in a wonderfully stylish way. The nose brims with zesty red and black berries, which are pinned back by smoke, cream and violets. At first sip, it comes across as clean, delicate, light even, but the blackcurrant and bramble fruit’s piercing intensity is soon backed up by notes of roasted meat, minerals, dried cherries, sandalwood, orange zest and green herbs. A fine wine by anyone’s definition, this too will develop over decades.

I’ll finish with a flourish, with the Coscojares Vindedo Singular Rioja, Fincas de Azabache (Corks and Cru £47.50), which shows how Rioja’s Garnacha (France’s Grenache) can play the starring role. Made from a tiny parcel of vines on a 1.9-hectare vineyard, all of which were planted before 1955 at high altitude, the results is a wonderfully subtle, complex wine that oozes class and complexity. Mid-red, it offers a combination of red cherries, dried strawberries, and damsons, with intriguing touches of aged balsamic vinegar, pepper, caramel, and raspberries. Ideal with everything from belly pork to goats’ cheese, it will develop beautifully over the coming decade.

Well, that’s it for now. I do hope you’ll try some of these fantastic wines so you can enjoy the many faces of Rioja.

Next time out, Chile. No, really, it will be Chile!

Cheers,

Giles

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Mucky Weekender out of this world

Liz Nicholls

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Wiltshire

All the stars aligned to make Mucky Weekender the best small festival on Planet Earth this summer…

A short time ago (last weekend) in a galaxy not very far away… the stars of jungle, dub and more came out to shine.

Four thousand rockers and ravers took off from Vicarage Farm near Winchester on a two-day mission to explore Mucky Weekender created by intrepid Dub Pistols frontman Barry Ashworth.

And this summer’s highlight did not disappoint with four star-spangled stages for 2023. As promised, The USS Seanie T spaceship boldy went where no MC had gone before, and the Crazy Diamonds Club Stage dazzled bright. Leeroy Thornhill (ex Prodigy) and DJ Format were two of the many highlights blowing minds at The Shack while The Ashworth Mad House provided the perfect base for astronomical sets from Goldie MBE, Charlie Tee, Stereo MCs, general Levy, Krafty Kuts, Bez’s Acid House and many many more.

This was my first trip to Mucky Weekender, and the fourth event spreading the love thanks to hedonist and helper Barry, who is patron of Tonic Music for Mental Health who offer free support and recovery programmes for the vulnerable people within the music and arts community.

The intimate capacity crowd of all ages, roaming a stunning 28 acres of private parkland, make for a community feel, with great vibes and everyone taking care of each other – especially important on this scorcher of an end-of-summer weekend.

Top marks must also go to the weird and wonderful creatives who added their own sprinkles of spacedust, such as Jethro & Tom with their sonic instrument experience in The Stump. Also, everyone who got involved with this year’s intergalactic theme outdid themselves, with outfits and props of stellar proportions.

If any of this means anything to you, and you miss the old days and spirit of drum and bass, Mucky is for you. Coming back to reality might be a bumpy landing, and your legs might not work the same way for a couple of days afterwards, but this is a price worth paying to leave the home planet for a few days.

Next year’s shindig will have a Mad Hatter’s Tea Party there, so make yourself a brew, happy recovery and hope to see you next September!

Visit: Mucky Weekender Festival

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Saddle up for National Racehorse Week!

Round & About

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Wiltshire

From 9th to 17th September, in an experience like no other, more than 130 events will take place across the country to show the public what life as a racehorse is really like.

Racehorse training yards, studs and retraining centres will open their doors and invite everyone to get up close to the equine stars of horseracing, providing family-friendly demonstrations, exciting displays, and a unique day out with something for everyone. Most events are free of charge, with more than 13,500 spaces available.

TV personality Chris Hughes, who is a racehorse owner and ambassador for National Racehorse Week said: “The impact of getting up close to a horse cannot be underestimated. And racing has created a unique opportunity through National Racehorse Week to help people meet these incredible animals, experience the life of a thoroughbred and talk to the dedicated teams who care for them 365 days a year. There is nothing quite like this is any other sport. It is fantastic that the events are free to attend with everyone welcome to join.”

Eve Johnson Houghton is a leading racehorse trainer, based high on the Berkshire Downs – a perfect setting for training thoroughbred horses. Alongside a hosted yard tour and chance to meet the racehorses at Woodway there will be a charity raffle, cake sale and guess the winner competition with proceeds going to Racing Welfare and Air Ambulance.

Kim Bailey has trained over 1400 winners and is lucky enough to have achieved the magical “Big Three”, The Grand National (Mr Frisk), The Cheltenham Gold Cup (Master Oats) and The Champion Hurdle (Alderbrook). He will welcome visitors to meet the stars of his yards and see horses exercising.

Run by Great British Racing, with principal funding from The Racing Foundation and The Horserace Betting Levy Board, National Racehorse Week is the sport’s biggest campaign to bring people across Britain behind the scenes of racing to show the incredible work that goes into the care of thoroughbreds, and give real-life insights into the lives racehorses lead.

To find out more and to claim your tickets, visit National Racehorse Week.

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Homage to the wines of Yalumba

Round & About

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Wiltshire

Our wine columnist Giles Luckett explores the harvest of a magical region of Australia

Hello. A few years ago I was fortunate enough to go on a press trip to Australia. Over the course of three weeks, we toured many of this amazing wine country’s regions, visited some extraordinary wineries and met some of the most passionate, innovative, and creative winemakers I’ve ever encountered.

While I discovered the weird (Lucy Margaux’s ‘natural’ wines) and the wonderful (BK Wines’ Savagnin, one of my abiding memories was our trip to Yalumba. This historic, family-owned producer is Australian wine royalty and our extensive tasting was fantastic, revealing a winery that did things its way and one that wasn’t afraid to take risks in the pursuit of excellence.

I recently had the opportunity to taste a range of Yalumba’s wines again (highlights below), some of which I knew and some of which were new to me. I was delighted to see their innovative spirit continue – the Roussanne was a lovely surprise – and I asked Yalumba’s winemaker Louisa Rose to tell me a little more about their wines…

Louisa Rose – head of winemaking at Yalumba

Q. You make a wide range of wines – from unoaked dry whites to fortified wines – what’s the uniting philosophy behind them?

“We seek to sustainably craft wines that reflect a thoughtful interpretation of grape, terroir and house style. Wines of individuality that are both timeless and contemporary. Wines of conviction and provenance. This philosophy spans our full offering, but there is a tailored approach to meet market requirements. We focus on natural appellation, a long view of the wine-style evolution, akin to a slow wine philosophy. At the same time, we are responsive to market opportunities by way of ‘new’ varieties, styles and fashions, whilst still holding true to our legacy and beliefs, raising the bar, and building value.”

Q. Your wines span the classics – Shiraz, Cabernet, Grenache etc. – but I’ve seen new Mediterranean varieties coming through such as Tempranillo and Pinot Grigio. Are you producing these as you have the right sites for them or is there another reason?

“Shiraz, Cabernet and Grenache are varieties that came to Australia early in the history of white settlement. The Barossa is home to the oldest vineyards of all three of these varieties in the world – still growing and producing wines, (Shiraz planted 1843, Grenache 1848, Cabernet 1888). This says something about the suitability of the sites we have to those varieties. At the same time Australian winemakers like to trial new things and experiment. Much of this work does not result in new wines necessarily, but it all helps influence our thoughts and practices. At Yalumba we are fortunate to have a wonderful nursery; a world-class nursery that grows healthy vines for vineyard expansions and is set up to propagate ‘new’ varieties when they come out of quarantine. We have trialled many varieties over the years, and some we like enough to take to the next stage after experimentation. Viognier, Pinot Grigio and Tempranillo are examples of this. Ultimately, they do well as they are suited to the sites we plant them, but the only way to find out what the right sites are is trial and error. It’s probably not surprising that many of the varieties we are looking at in the nursery are particularly suited to warm climates.”

Q. The recent vintage was one of the most challenging of recent years for many. How did you find it and aside from being of high quality, how would you describe the vintage’s character?

“2023 was challenging in the Barossa due to the wetter-than-usual spring conditions, which resulted in a later-than-usual start to the season, and ultimately a later-than-usual vintage. As the ripening gets later in the season, the days get shorter, and the ripening slows down even more. This can be a challenge then to get the grapes growing in the later ripening sites fully ripe. Luckily the season was kind to us and we had good warm weather into Autumn that got most of the grapes to their ideal place. We are very happy with the quality, across the varieties and styles. The whites loved the cooler season retaining good acidity and aromatics, and the reds had plenty of stress-free ‘hang time’ to get flavour and tannin ripeness.”

Q. Are there any vines you’re thinking of adding or would like to add? I had some excellent Pinot Nero, Nero d’Avola, and Arneis the last time I was in Australia.

“We are always thinking! There are a few things in our minds and vineyards, but from thinking about importing a new variety to having something ready to drink is at least a 10-year process… so patience really is a virtue.”

Q. How are you dealing with climate change? Some of the winemakers I’ve spoken to have expressed concerns about conditions becoming more difficult and growing seasons significantly shorter. Are you ‘going up or going south’ or are you trying to deal with the changing conditions with things like more canopy management and other vineyard techniques?

“Australia and the Barossa is used to extremes of climate, and we have many management techniques in our vineyards to mitigate, particularly against heat. Not that we are not concerned about climate change, particularly when it comes to water availability, but we know that we can make wines that are great expression of our region(s) in the cooler (like 23) and warmer seasons.

“Some of the things we do in the vineyards to buffer them against temperature changes include, using mulches under vine, growing grasses between the rows to keep the environment cooler and stop reflection of heat, increasing biodiversity in the vineyard, changes in trellis design and canopy management to keep grapes shaded by the leaves, and even using ‘sunscreen’. The sunscreen is kaolin clay, mixed in water and sprayed on the leaves. It is very effective in stopping burning of the leaf tissue in heat waves. Our old vines, which have so much of their biomass under the ground, are also buffered against day-to-day weather events more than younger vines maybe. Increasing biodiversity in vineyards and surrounds, and increasing soil carbon and microflora should also help the vines increase their natural resilience.

“One of the very tangible things we are doing to combat climate change is actively measuring and reducing our greenhouse gas emissions as Silver Members of the International Wineries for Climate Action (IWCA) is a collaborative working group of wineries committed to reducing carbon emissions across the wine industry. Currently over 40 wineries from nine countries are working together on this, in partnership with the United Nations Race to Zero campaign.”

Q. You still make a range of of fortified. Is this a heritage thing or do they find a ready market?

“We do still make a little bit of fortified wine. There is certainly a market for it, but it is also a heritage thing.”

Q. If you had to pick one of your wines to drink which would you choose and why?

“This is an impossible question without context… where am I… who am I with… what am I eating… how do I feel? Maybe I will just have a glass of our Tricentenary (planted 1889) Grenache while I wait for the answer!

GL: Thanks, Louisa. On the basis of my recent tasting, I’m with you on the Tricentenary.

Yalumba wines you must try

While I’ve never had a bad wine from Yalumba, there are some that have consistently stood out for me, or, in the case of the Roussanne, which were new and head-turning. So, here are my current loves from an impressive Yalumba’s range.

I’ll start my recommendations with the Y Series Chardonnay (winedirect £11.30). I always think it’s a bold move to make an unoaked Chardonnay. Partly as I think most consumers expect Chardonnay to be wooded – especially when it comes to New World examples – and because you need to be sure your fruit’s got the character to pull off a solo performance. The Y Series pulls it off in style. The nose combines freshness with tropical fruit and a subtle touch of vanilla, while on the palate the flavours of red apple, peach, pear and grapefruit are lively, intense, and mask of oak, seem more focused, and pure. Try this with oily fish, pork and seafood.

Yalumba have a reputation for creating great wines from Rhône varieties, and while their Viognier and Grenache garner much of the critics’ applause they have other wines that are equally exciting. Their Eden Valley Roussanne (winedirect £15.75) is a fascinating wine. Straw green-gold, the bouquet offers camomile, rose petals, herbs and (to me at, least) green wood. The palate is fresh and clean, but has an underlying richness as flavours as diverse as white peach, vanilla, orange peel, citrus and almonds come together to give an intriguing whole. This is a wine for the mind, one to sip and savour either on its own or with mushroom risotto, baked white fish or roasted artichokes.

The Virgilius Viognier (London End Wines £36) is acknowledged as a bright star in Yalumba’s firmament. The 2018 is a jaw-droppingly good wine, one that’s fit to rank with the Rhône’s finest Condrieu. Pale gold, the nose is a riot spiced apricots, cardamom, ginger, lychees and nose-tingling kumquats. This mighty mouthful’s creamy, unctuous body delivers wave after wave of apricot and dried pear fruit, mixed spice, orange peel, and honey, balanced and restrained by a fine, cleansing acidity. It’s big, bold, and beautiful, and has a long, golden future ahead of it.

And so to the reds. Australia makes some of the greatest varietal Cabernet Sauvignon in the world, with its Coonawarra wines being perhaps its finest of all. The Cigar Cabernet 2018 (Laithwaites £25) is certainly one of the best Cabernets I’ve had this year. Inky and brooding, the nose is piercing, full of fresh blackcurrants, green peppers, spices, cigar box, and raspberries but, as in the mouth, the more you investigate, the more you discover. Tones of the undergrowth, stewed plums, blackcurrant conserve, mint, bitter chocolate, earth and redcurrants all emerge. This powerful wine is lithe and elegant and is a must for red meats, sheep’s cheese, tomato-based dishes or on its own with good friends.

I couldn’t talk about Yalumba’s wines and not mention Grenache. For many years Grenache has been spoken of as having the potential to make Australia’s greatest reds. Alas, as in so many places, this vine’s natural generosity has been exploited leading to the productions of lakes of moderately coloured, moderately flavoured, massively alcoholic quaffing wines. Yalumba clearly respects it, and the Samuel’s Collection Barossa Bush Vine Grenache 2019 (Sarah’s Cellar £20) shows what it can do in the right hands. Mid-red, the aroma is a cheerful, inviting blend of cherries, raspberries and pomegranates, with floral and vanilla touches. The palate is juicy, plump, with all the hard edges of a ball pit. There’s weight to the cherry, strawberry, and blackberry fruit, and freshness is leant by a delicate red berry acidity. I’d serve this with roasted guinea fowl or gammon.

My penultimate choice reflects Australia’s brilliance at blends. Legend has it that winemakers put Cabernet with Shiraz as they had no Merlot, Australian Merlot being in the words of one famous Aussie winemaker, ‘a nice idea’. The Samuel’s Collection Barossa Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2018 (Vinum £16.70) is a Rhône blend (Mataro being France’s Mourvèdre) that delivers a wine with a lightness of touch that you’re unlikely to find in say, Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Peppered black and red fruits dominate the nose, while on the palate black cherries, prunes, raspberries, cranberries and spiced almonds come together to produce a wine of harmonious complexity. This is a wine I’ve always enjoyed with lamb and pheasant – the juicy, peppery tone just seems to go perfectly, but it’s great with barbecued foods and Hong Kong-style spare ribs.

I’ll finish on a high with a wine that’s produced from vines that date back to 1889. The Tri-Centenary Grenache (Vinum £40) is a wine like no other, and not just because of the 100-day post-fermentation maceration which (so I’m told) explains its extraordinary fine, velvety mouthfeel. This is undoubtedly one of the world’s great wine experiences. The aged, low-yielding Grenache vines give a super concentrated glassful of red and black cherries, prunes, chocolate, mint, dried strawberries and a lovely, mellow herb butter tone to the finish. Powerful enough to stand up to well-flavoured red meats and herby, softly spiced vegetarian dishes, this should be on every serious wine lover’s must-taste list.

Well, that’s it for now. Next time out I’ll run down my top ten Chilean wines.

Cheers!
Giles

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Donnington Valley raises autumn spirits

Liz Nicholls

Posted on

Wiltshire

Missed summer? You’re sure to feel the glow with a minibreak at Donnington Valley Hotel, Golf & Spa

Summer this year has offered a bit of a false dawn: a scorching few weeks followed by soggy second half…

But if you weren’t able to jet off to sunnier climes August onwards (like the rest of the world, judging by social media) I recommend a stay at Donnington Valley where the warm welcome is sure to top up your mojo levels.

Backing on to the rolling landscaped golf course (which is even prettier in autumn mizzle) the privately owned four-star hotel and spa has earned rave reviews and several industry awards for its top-notch hospitality and food. No wonder it’s become a popular choice for everyone, from walkers to wedding parties.

I arrived in the middle of a stressful week, fairly frazzled, and within about five minutes of being ushered into the calm sanctuary of the spa, Gabriele had kneaded the tension from my poor shoulders with a Sonoma Aromatherapy Massage. As well as feeling a warm afterglow which lasted days afterwards, the indulgent Germaine de Capuccini skincare products left even my knackered skin feeling peachy and bright.

There are lots of great packages on offer, such as the half spa day including a 25-minute treatment tailored to you, such as a Walkers Leg Therapy massage or an express Royal Jelly De-Stress Facial. You can enjoy a bento box or afternoon tea and plenty of time to relax in (or alongside) the turquoise pool which is a heavenly haven with a jacuzzi, sauna and aromatherapy room – or hit the gym as well if you haven’t melted into total relaxation by that point. If you have opted for a spa break (check out the autumn package deals) you can then float along the corridor and straight into an immaculate room for a totally restful and comfortable sleep in a luxurious kingsize bed, and you can keep the good vibes going the following morning with the best breakfast in Berkshire.

Strictly Pro Dancer Karen Hauer recently checked in to The HangOut, Donnington Valley’s an al fresco dining grill and chill area where she and star chef Darren made their own pizzas hot & crispy from the oven. The HangOut has stayed abuzz all summer and continues to sizzle into September, under the fairylights. You can settle in (under cover if the heavens open) to relax and enjoy a perfectly mixed cocktail or glass of wine or three, with live music on Saturday evenings. Inside (in the huge cosy beamed Bacchus wine bar and restaurant) or out, the food is of epic feast proportions: I can heartily recommend the Donnington Burger with Ogleshield cheese and the trio of Berkshire sausages with bacon bubble and sticky onion jus. Sunday roasts (12-2.30pm) also earn high praise – and all the winter warmers are sure to raise your spirits even on a cold day.

The staff are amazingly kind and helpful and will help you forget your everyday cares and worries – I felt as though I’d been away somewhere far-off for a few days.

Visit donningtonvalley.co.uk 

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Education Guide: Autumn 2023

Round & About

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Wiltshire

Another September beckons and we hope our education special will help you, whether you’re a parent to a SEN child, would like advice about bursaries, want to make maths fun or continue learning whatever your age 

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SEN support for parents

Worried about a child’s progress in school? Learning differences consultant, former head teacher & SEN editor Mary Mountstephen offers parents some tips on being proactive

There’s always that moment when, as a parent, those doubts in the back of your mind start to assert themselves more loudly. Or perhaps a well-meaning family member or friend might make comments that add to your anxiety levels.

These might include: “Why isn’t he doing as well as his brother?”, “She should have started talking by now, surely?”, “That’s just not right, he needs to stop having tantrums”. Sound familiar?

Each child is unique. They often develop faster in some areas than in others and comparison with their brothers, sisters, cousins or classmates can be unhelpful and unwelcome. Depending on the type of concern and the child’s age, there are organisations and professionals to support you, such as your GP, your child’s setting (early years/ primary etc). The following information is intended to provide you with some basic tips, plus information about other sources of support and advice which are cost-effective or free.

Types of SEN

There are four types of SEN: communication and interaction needs, cognition and learning difficulties, social, emotional and mental health difficulties and sensory and physical needs. Some children and young people may have SEN in more than one of these areas, but for most children with SEN, they will attend their local, mainstream school.

Don’t delay if you have concerns

There is a significant body of research that confirms the importance of early intervention when a child’s progress is causing concern. Looking back some years, school often operated a ‘wait and see’ protocol when being asked about delays in progress. Children with a dyslexic profile, for example, would possibly only be monitored until the age of seven, as it was a prevailing belief that they could not be identified before then, whereas current research indicates that this is possible from a much earlier age.

Be persistent but polite when communicating with the setting/ school

Parents and carers are not always confident in advocating for their child and in being able to communicate their concerns articulately. They may have had difficulties themselves at school, and this can translate into feeling nervous or hesitant in expressing their ‘gut feelings’, have known parents, on occasion, to become quite emotional or even aggressive if they feel they are not being listened to. So it’s a good idea to be prepared in advance.

Gather evidence using checklists

There are many checklists of child development, depending on where the concern(s) lie. If your child is in a school or early years setting, advice about this may be available. If not, carry on reading!

Check out national charities & organisations

A quick internet search will produce a long list of organisations and many of these can offer free support and resources. The difficulty here, as with self-diagnosis of symptoms, that you may become convinced your child has more complex needs than they might have. For that reason, it’s a good idea to communicate your concerns with the school at an early stage and be-guided by them.

Contact trusted sources

Finding trustworthy online support can be confusing for parents; the sheer volume of advice can be overwhelming and knowing who to trust can be daunting. For the last two years I’ve been working with SENDStation. I provide training about dyslexia and auditory processing difficulties. The company’s mission has always been to provide great quality learning that’s affordable and accessible. Their online courses are live and cost less than £15, including hand-out and certificate. The team cover 40 different sessions from dyslexia to toilet training. Visit SEND-Station. I’d also like to recommend a free newsletter from SEN magazine. You could also point both of these resources in the direction of the school! Please visit Mailing List Subscription – SEN Magazine to sign up.

Mary Mountstephen is a learning differences specialist with a background of working in a range of school settings, including roles as headteacher of two primary schools, and as an SEND specialist in the independent sector. She provides school training, individual assessments and online training. Find out more at Learning Differences| Mary Mountstephen and follow @M_Mountstephen on Twitter.

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Life lessons with Dame Jacqueline Wilson

Liz Nicholls

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Wiltshire

We chat to author Jacqueline Wilson, 77, who is one of the stars of Henley Literary Festival, 30th September to 7th October

Q. Hello. I hope you’re well?

“I’m well, feeling good and very much looking forward to coming to the Henley Literary Festival.”

Q. Did you enjoy school?

“I liked it at my primary school. I had a marvellous gentle teacher when I was in Year Five called Mr Townsend. He didn’t tease me when I confided that I wanted to be a writer when I was grown up. He actively encouraged me and was very sweet when I showed him my first long story. I wasn’t quite as keen on my secondary school, though I enjoyed my English lessons and much appreciated the friendly art teacher who taught me a lot about paintings in the National Gallery.”

Q. What was your favourite book when you were a child? And who’s your favourite author now?

“I loved Ballet Shoes by Noel Streatfeild, a story about three adopted sisters who go to stage school. I wished I could have ballet lessons myself, but had to make do with dancing round our flat in my pink bedroom slippers, pretending I was a fourth sister. My favourite author is Anne Tyler. I’ve read every single one of her books, and do hope she writes many more.”

Q. Can you tell us about your first book, which I believe you wrote when you were nine, is that right?

“It was only about 15 pages long, but it had all my trademarks: it was about a poor family with a wayward teenage girl of 15, an earnest 12-year-old who loves reading, a 10-year-old who wants to act, nine-year-old identical twins, an anxious six-year-old, and a fierce little sister of four who bosses everyone about!”

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