The Christmas rose

Cherry Butler

Christmas rose is not a rose but in fact a hellebore and is in the buttercup family.

The Christmas Rose legend

According to legend a little shepherd girl from Bethlehem followed the other shepherds to the manger where Christ was born, but unlike them she had no gift to offer the baby Jesus. She searched but became upset because she couldn’t find anything suitable. Suddenly she was dazzled by a shaft of light which fell on a clump of pure white flowers. She picked some and laid them carefully at the manger. These were the very first ‘Christmas Roses’ to bloom on earth.

Use in the garden

Hellebores are naturally winter flowering or spring flowering depending on the type and are extremely hardy. They grow well in shade and the white flowered ones appear to glow and brighten up a dull winter border. Helleborus niger is often sold as a Christmas rose but is in fact one of the most temperamental. Helleborus orientalis is far more reliable in our climate and can also seed freely, cross breeding with it’s neighbours. There are a wide range of colours and flower types with several specialist nurseries selling them.

Black Death

Another interesting point is that Hellebores were used as a defence against the Plague! They suffer from a leaf spot which horticulturists call Hellebore black death… It is good practise to cut off the old leaves to allow the flowers and new leaves to develop.

Horticultural consultancy

I can spend half a day in your garden identifying your plants and teaching you how to look after them.

Cathie’s garden army

If you have lost control of your garden completely we are here to help! A qualified team of horticulturists can transform your garden in a day following a consultancy. Email [email protected], visit www.cathiesgardeningschool.co.uk and follow Cathie’s Gardening School on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.

Hydrangea heaven

Cherry Butler

There are many types and some interesting facts about them. They can look good all year round but need a moist, well-drained soil. Pruning varies depending on type.

Hydrangea macrophylla

These are often referred to as indicator plants because their colour can determine soil pH. This refers to the mop head hydrangea macrophylla only; the bluer the flower the more acid your soil. In alkaline soil the flower will be pink but you can water on sequestered iron regularly or grow in a pot with ericaceous compost for more blue. They can be pruned to new shoots in late spring allowing the old flower heads to protect from frost during the winter.

Hydrangea paniculata

These are a lot larger and usually white and pale pink and my all-time favourite. The flowers are more pointed in shape and literally glow in a shady border. These are pruned to a woody framework in spring and will flower on the current growth. ‘Limelight’ and ‘Little Lime’ are lovely cultivars and ‘Vanilla Fraise’ is illustrated.

Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’

These huge white heads look amazing in a mixed border, under trees and anywhere you want a great summer show. Prune hard in spring support to tame heavy heads!

Hydrangea petiolaris

This climbing hydrangea will stick to a wall or fence, ideal for a northern aspect. Flowers are flatter and prolific. The only pruning needed is tidying and deadheading.

Horticultural consultancy

I can spend half a day in your garden identifying your plants and teaching you how to look after them. The four hydrangeas discussed all have very different pruning requirements and correct pruning of all plants is essential for healthy growth, fruit, flowers and foliage.

Cathie’s garden army

If you have lost control of your garden completely we are here to help! A qualified team of horticulturists can transform your garden in a day following a consultancy. Please ask for details. Find out more by emailing [email protected], visit www.cathiesgardeningschool.co.uk, call 07931 925 382 and follow Cathie’s Gardening School on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.

Garden composting

Cherry Butler

What is garden composting?

Recycling unwanted garden and kitchen waste into a free, nutrient-rich soil improver and mulch. There are some basic rules to follow that will unravel the mystery.

Choose your area and container

The wooden slatted, made-to-measure compost bins are my recommendation and they look nice too. Make up a group of three somewhere accessible and in a shady corner of the garden. Plastic bins can be obtained free from the council but are a little trickier to negotiate and don’t look so attractive. Many other systems are available.

The ‘recipe’

  1. Too many grass cuttings are the downfall of most compost systems. They become a squidgy, stinky mess.
  2. Layer grass cuttings with leaves, cardboard, non-perennial weeds, cut up perennials and green prunings, kitchen waste such as vegetable peelings, pet bedding etc.
  3. Try to avoid cooked foods such as meat, fish and bread products as these can attract vermin.
  4. Add a nitrogen compost activator such as chicken or horse manure or a compost activator available in all garden centres.
  5. Ensure it is not too wet or too dry as this will halt the process. Water in dry weather and add dry product like shredded paper or straw to absorb wetness.
  6. Air is needed so all the micro-organisms and worms can get to work, so layer grass clippings with dry material or move the heap from one bay to another.

The result

Compost that is suitable to use everywhere as a soil improver, mulch and even potting. I plant my full bins with courgettes so no square inch of garden is wasted!

Horticultural consultancy

I can spend half a day in your garden identifying your plants and teaching you how to look after them. I can even help you set up a composting area.

Cathie’s garden army

If you have lost control of your garden completely we are here to help! A qualified team of horticulturists can transform your garden in a day following a consultancy. Email [email protected], visit www.cathiesgardeningschool.co.uk and follow Cathie’s Gardening School on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.

Pruning raspberries

Cherry Butler

Raspberries fall into two main categories; those that fruit in the summer and those that fruit later on into autumn. They are treated very differently with regards to pruning.

Summer raspberries

These will have finished fruiting now and it should be easy to distinguish the old canes from the new ones. All the fruited canes will start to die and can be pruned right down to the ground. The new ones will have been getting in your way while picking the fruit and can now be tied in to their support. I usually cut the tops off to a sensible height but you can bend them over if space allows. Any that are weak, overcrowding or just coming up in a silly place should be removed.

Autumn raspberries

If you get it right, the autumn type should begin to fruit as the summer ones finish! They continue until the frosts set in which can be up to Christmas. They do not generally need tying in to a support as they are not as tall as the summer ones but it may be helpful for ease of picking. Pruning involves cutting all the fruited canes to the ground in February after which time new canes will emerge from the ground for fruiting later on that season and off we go again…

Potash

Raspberries need their potash in the same way as tomatoes to encourage fruiting. Ash from the wood burning stove is an excellent source and can be applied directly or put into the compost bin for later use.

Horticultural consultancy

I can spend half a day in your garden identifying your plants and teaching you how to look after them. Pruning is a skill that takes years to learn as each plant has a different requirement.

Cathie’s garden army

If you have lost control of your garden completely we are here to help! A qualified team of horticulturists can transform your garden in a day following a consultancy. Please ask for details. . Email [email protected], visit www.cathiesgardeningschool.co.uk and follow Cathie’s Gardening School on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.